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#16 | |
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gori ferungi ladki
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Negotiable
Posts: 269
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Quote:
--*jyoti* PS Still, take the SLR. I'm planning to use my digital for motion shots or stuff that I don't know if it'll come out or not and may needs lots of shots to get the right pick. Save the film for when you know it's the shot you want. It costs a little bit, but film can be put on CD when it's developed, too. |
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#17 | |
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a pain in the asana
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: the India inside my heart
Posts: 5,457
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Quote:
No, I know nothing blocked the flash because too many of the indoor shots come out the same way, and I'm not that big of a dope to cover the flash all the time! When I think about it, all the pics that look like this are ones where I use the zoom (and the rooms have flourescent lights, does that have anything to do with it? ) As you can see from my photo gallery, indoor pics from my last trip (the warehouse shots) look good despite the fact it was really dark --- so camera flashed, but I rarely zoomed. But if you can't zoom in and use the flash, then what's the point? I mean, why would Canon not make that "functional"? and no, I don't think there's an auxillary flash for the S60 and I don't think I'd want to use one anyway. |
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#18 |
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Maha Guru Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New York
Posts: 2,096
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Well then it's probably just weak batteries or the flash wasn't fully recharged (you had just taken a flash picture perhaps). When you zoom out, the aperture closes down and you are asking the flash to reach a greater distance. It's also not a very powerful flash. At ISO 100, at full telephoto, the guide range is only 6.6 feet--everything to 6.6 feet will be properly exposed by the flash.
The solution to this is to change the ISO to 400, which will increase the flash guide range significantly. The flash will carry farther. The guide range is farther if you don't zoom--13.8 feet at the wide end at ISO 100. Flash and zoom don't really get along. Zooms are really just a down-market selling feature and don't produce quality photos except in the brightest light. For the shots that are underexposed, they are very easy to fix in any photo editor. I just adjusted the levels. In whatever program you are using, look for "levels." You might see a histogram, which is the jagged mountain-looking representation of the image. The little sliders should always be up against the base of the mountain, on the right and the left. That will reconcile the information in the image with the standard exposure (a properly exposed picture will already have the sliders at the base of the mountain). And there's also probably some auto-fix function somewhere, which would automatically fix the levels. |
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#19 |
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The slow traveller
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Use Picasa to fill light in ur pciture. it's easy and it's free.
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