Travel in rural Bihar - Buddhist ruins

sirensongs · Jan 21st, 2007, 20:31

Two days of driving/bus riding through rural Bihar villages (Vaishali, Lalganj, Chakiya, Deoria, Keshariya and lots of nameless ones) was alternately enthralling in its simplicity, and scary. THe villages themselves are quiet, clean, and immaculate with their neatly swept mud houses. No horns, no traffic (at least no cars), no pollution, no sewer smells, and if you are looking for the one place in India not yet invaded by Coke and Pepsi - this is it! NO corporate logos for hours at a time. - nor any bottled water for 12 hours! I ate lots of oranges.

But, every couple hours, a gang of youths at a crossroads will blockade the car (cars are a definite occasion in those parts - a real novelty), even forcing it to stop with a bamboo pole and loudly, forcefully demanding god knows what from the terrified driver (who spoke not a work of English and my Hindi is restricted to about 3 dozen words). Maybe they just wanted a lift, maybe baksheesh, but i really did not want to find out.

We managed to push through gangs like this three times - and that's just daytime travel. Shiva knows what night travel would be in rural Bihar!

The good news is that there are BUddhist ruins and sites still being excavated - significant ones. In 5-10 years Vaishali and Keshariya will be crowded with pilgrims. Keshariya in particular is home to what appears to be the world's 2nd tallest stupa - originally 10 storeys high in mandala shape! At one time this was a truly awesome work, like a pyramid.

It was a very loooooooonngggg drive there on potholed roads.

Excavation appears to be moving at the proverbial snail's pace. The day I was there, not one archaeologist or worker was in evidence. Photos to come....

silicon_brain · Jan 21st, 2007, 23:23

Nice post on a untouched state.

Bihar is still far away from corporate logos. you will find too many politicians, criminals and yeah intellectuals in Bihar. but infrastructure is least developed especially in North Bihar.

If you go towards North Bihar district like Madhubani, Darbhnaga,sitamarhi you will see a true picture of rural and poor India. Village with no permanent road, No electricity, no Public transport, no TV,no Railways.
don't even ask for bottled water or coke/Pepsi there. But yes, you do find your cellephone working(Airtel/Reliance), that a surprise sometime.

sirensongs · Jan 22nd, 2007, 09:54

Oh no, Bihar cities and small towns are full of corporate logos. In Bodh Gaya the tongas (pony carts) have ads for Airtel bedecking their awnings - instead of tinsel and fringe! And the main streets are virtually one big Airtel, Aircel,Nokia signboard.

The same day I arrived, Patna was host to a conference about "Emerging Global Bihar," guest of honour none other than Pres Abdul Kalam. This was the same week 2 top pols feuded in the paper over allegations that one was performing black tantra pujas at the main temple here in town.

capt_mahajan · Jan 22nd, 2007, 11:25

Shock and awe at a (presumably) solo foreign lady traveller in rural bihar is my reaction.

CANADON · Jan 30th, 2007, 06:48

Sirensongs:Speaking of travel in rural Bihar.I'll be in Bodh Gaya in March and was hoping to go due south to Betla National Park(aka Palamau) in Jharkhand.There's a train from Gaya to Daltonganj that leaves at midnight and arrives at 5.00 am but I would rather go in the daylight.Is it at all feasible to take a bus or rent a car to go there considering the difficulty of travelling in that area?Have you met any other travelers at BG who did this?

robotvoice · Jan 30th, 2007, 07:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by capt_mahajan

Shock and awe at a (presumably) solo foreign lady traveller in rural bihar is my reaction.

some indian males would never go there!

sirensongs · Jan 30th, 2007, 10:04

Quote:

train from Gaya to Daltonganj that leaves at midnight and arrives at 5.00 am but I would rather go in the daylight.Is it at all feasible to take a bus or rent a car to go there considering the difficulty of

Hmmm, generally the trains are well locked and well patrolled in the cars themselves by railway police. (there are exceptions!) Definitely, though, minimize risk by taking 3A class or above.

Being on the train at night is not such a concern...it's getting OFF the train at night. It is well light by 5AM when you arrive. Thing is here to arrive in Gaya in daytime, stay safely inside at a hotel like the Ajatasatru (listed in the LP) very near the station, and that way minimize risk.

Or, check out the bus or car rentals as you said. I don't know the bus schedules, but - Everything in India is possible, nothing is easy! ;-)

CANADON · Jan 30th, 2007, 18:20

Thanks for your reply SS.Yeah it wasn't the train ride that bothered me as much as hanging around Gaya till midnight and that stumbling out blearied eyed a few hours later.Maybe I'll book a ticket and then when I get to BG I'll be able to better suss out the situation for other modes of travel.

Jan 21st, 2007, 20:31	#1
sirensongs Eeny meeny mango Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: All India Permit (somewhere between Delhi & Dharamsala) Posts: 1,213	Travel in rural Bihar - Buddhist ruins Two days of driving/bus riding through rural Bihar villages (Vaishali, Lalganj, Chakiya, Deoria, Keshariya and lots of nameless ones) was alternately enthralling in its simplicity, and scary. THe villages themselves are quiet, clean, and immaculate with their neatly swept mud houses. No horns, no traffic (at least no cars), no pollution, no sewer smells, and if you are looking for the one place in India not yet invaded by Coke and Pepsi - this is it! NO corporate logos for hours at a time. - nor any bottled water for 12 hours! I ate lots of oranges. But, every couple hours, a gang of youths at a crossroads will blockade the car (cars are a definite occasion in those parts - a real novelty), even forcing it to stop with a bamboo pole and loudly, forcefully demanding god knows what from the terrified driver (who spoke not a work of English and my Hindi is restricted to about 3 dozen words). Maybe they just wanted a lift, maybe baksheesh, but i really did not want to find out. We managed to push through gangs like this three times - and that's just daytime travel. Shiva knows what night travel would be in rural Bihar! The good news is that there are BUddhist ruins and sites still being excavated - significant ones. In 5-10 years Vaishali and Keshariya will be crowded with pilgrims. Keshariya in particular is home to what appears to be the world's 2nd tallest stupa - originally 10 storeys high in mandala shape! At one time this was a truly awesome work, like a pyramid. It was a very loooooooonngggg drive there on potholed roads. Excavation appears to be moving at the proverbial snail's pace. The day I was there, not one archaeologist or worker was in evidence. Photos to come.... __________________ *"Why do people go to India to find themselves? India is where you go to lose* yourself."** Feringhee: The India Diaries

Jan 22nd, 2007, 09:54	#3
sirensongs Eeny meeny mango Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: All India Permit (somewhere between Delhi & Dharamsala) Posts: 1,213	mundo corporado Oh no, Bihar cities and small towns are full of corporate logos. In Bodh Gaya the tongas (pony carts) have ads for Airtel bedecking their awnings - instead of tinsel and fringe! And the main streets are virtually one big Airtel, Aircel,Nokia signboard. The same day I arrived, Patna was host to a conference about "Emerging Global Bihar," guest of honour none other than Pres Abdul Kalam. This was the same week 2 top pols feuded in the paper over allegations that one was performing black tantra pujas at the main temple here in town.

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Jan 21st, 2007, 23:23	#2
silicon_brain Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Delhi/San Jose, India,USA Posts: 48	Nice post on a untouched state. Bihar is still far away from corporate logos. you will find too many politicians, criminals and yeah intellectuals in Bihar. but infrastructure is least developed especially in North Bihar. If you go towards North Bihar district like Madhubani, Darbhnaga,sitamarhi you will see a true picture of rural and poor India. Village with no permanent road, No electricity, no Public transport, no TV,no Railways. don't even ask for bottled water or coke/Pepsi there. But yes, you do find your cellephone working(Airtel/Reliance), that a surprise sometime.

Jan 22nd, 2007, 11:25	#4
capt_mahajan (in charge of navel affairs) Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: India Posts: 10,134	Shock and awe at a (presumably) solo foreign lady traveller in rural bihar is my reaction.

Jan 30th, 2007, 06:48	#5
CANADON Canadon Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: toronto,canada Posts: 100	Sirensongs:Speaking of travel in rural Bihar.I'll be in Bodh Gaya in March and was hoping to go due south to Betla National Park(aka Palamau) in Jharkhand.There's a train from Gaya to Daltonganj that leaves at midnight and arrives at 5.00 am but I would rather go in the daylight.Is it at all feasible to take a bus or rent a car to go there considering the difficulty of travelling in that area?Have you met any other travelers at BG who did this?

Jan 30th, 2007, 18:20	#8
CANADON Canadon Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: toronto,canada Posts: 100	Thanks for your reply SS.Yeah it wasn't the train ride that bothered me as much as hanging around Gaya till midnight and that stumbling out blearied eyed a few hours later.Maybe I'll book a ticket and then when I get to BG I'll be able to better suss out the situation for other modes of travel.

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