Advice about tribals, Naxalites, scenic routes, tigers

camelgirl · Nov 5th, 2009, 09:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by newislander

Permits are not required for orissa and chhatissgarh. Permits are required for the Andamans where I am also going but I already knew about that. Camelgirl, I have done a lot of research already. My questions were fine-tuning my research but since I posted I have learned a lot more from other sources.

Are you planning to visit these areas? Is that why you are answering my thread?

There are still many places in India I haven't been to and those places are some of them. I answered your thread simply because it interested me, like many others that catch my attention. I was dismayed to read about what's going on with the Maoists/Naxalites. It was right on the front page of our Sunday NY Times but I had missed it until Rwehavingfun put in the link because I got involved with another long article. My husband also missed it on Sunday, so we had a chat about it today. We don't like to go to places while they are in the throes of violence. We've avoided Nepal because of the Maoists and all the political problems. Hope to go back one of these days, now that it's calmed down. It used to be one of our favorite places in the world.

Anyway, I think you'll have a very interesting trip and I hope you come back to IM to tell us more about it.

vonkla · Nov 5th, 2009, 16:23

We have visited the tribal areas in Orissa as well in Chhattisgarh but on a luxury way with a car + driver/guide.

For the 2005 trip through Orissa we visited the tribal areas outside the normal tourist routes and according to our travel agent we needed permits for those areas. Since he arranged I don't know anything about the procedures.

During both trips we regular controlled by police on the local haats.

As for the visits to the tribal villages, those situated on the roads will not differ much from ordinary small villages except on the market days when the people of the surrounding areas come to it.

I can understand that you don't want to travel the highways but I doubt that in this areas there are many other roads leading from one place to another.

newislander · Nov 5th, 2009, 22:57

Yes I have maps that show there are other roads than the highway. And when i look on google maps, i can also find small roads. However, I won't be using google maps but my German Maps which are very good. They don't indicate all the roads but enough for me to follow.

If there are indeed such permits, then I am sure I will not have any trouble obtaining one when I need it. If there is a problem, then I will just travel along the highway. But it is odd that neither the guidebook nor the government tourist websites mention permits. Perhaps its just got to do with getting permission from a tribe that you are intending to visit.

Anyway given the delicacy of the situation over there, I will just have to keep an open mind about what I can and can't do.

newislander · Nov 5th, 2009, 22:58

Vonkla do you know the names of the villages you went to?

vonkla · Nov 6th, 2009, 01:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by newislander

Vonkla do you know the names of the villages you went to?

For Orissa see the February part of our travel journal Mumbai-Dehli in three months
And for Chhattisgarh see the January part of From Kochi to Delhi

Jorge Reverter · Nov 6th, 2009, 01:49

Great article. It really comes down about the situation. I was visiting Chhattisgarh during a couple of weeks last October 2007 in special in Jagdalpur for the Dussehra celebrations and even have been in Barsur (the place in the pictures)to have a look at the temples (I've been a bit disappointed). In any case was one of the most interesting journeys I've done in India and of course I was absolutely aware of the naxalite's situation.

About the best way from Gopalpur to Koraput/Jeypore: Go to Berhampur and from there to Taptapani (nice spring with some temples) and from there to Mohana, Adaba, Ramannaguda,Rayagada, Lakshmipur and Koraput. Roads are very scenic and the village have a nice ambiance even if there are always signs of the troubles between christians and hindous and military barracks here and there.

Cannot advice to travel to the area but I want to go back soon.

Jorge

newislander · Nov 6th, 2009, 03:57

Jorge, I was considering going from up from tatipani to baliguda. The roads might be too rough, i'm not sure. After Adaba, the road I was considering would take me to Gadapur then simanbadi then baliguda, then back down to tumudibandh, Kothagarh, and on to rayagada that way. But if that looks too hard, I will take the route you propose I think. Its good to know that the route is scenic and the village appealing.

That is a yellow road on my map. I try to avoid those as much as possible because they seem to carry too much traffic which makes me feel unsafe. This road goes up through the hills where I believe would be many small villages. Perhaps I am trying to see more villages than I need to though. After all, I don't have all the time in the world but one does like to get off the beaten track if possible.

machadinha · Nov 6th, 2009, 12:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by newislander

I've not heard anything about any permits.

Well, it's been affirmed above you need them for some Orissa areas. I thought I'd heard so, too.

Quote:

And I've been looking far and wide for info on these areas. Lonely planet certainly doesn't mention it either. So I don't think so.

You'll realize most of those guidebooks won't have been published yesterday?

Quote:

I am already familiar with the seriousness of the problems in those parts. I saw a documentary somewhere. It might have been on you tube or it might have been on tele. I can't remember. I just didn't know the areas precisely.

Aha, yes. One documentary you don't even remember (let me guess: National Geographic? Oh, YouTube you say? Wow.) That should get you started for what would be an adventurous proposition under the best of circumstances, and as we all know.

Can you give us a very quick reason why we should assume you are real? I don't, anymore, you see; and not with some of your comments on other threads and after your supposedly numerous bicycle tours around India either.

theyyamdancer · Nov 6th, 2009, 12:19

Actually Lonely Planet does mention the need for permits when visiting Orissa, IF you go to tribal areas.

It is enclosed in one of their 'boxed' texts called 'Orissa's Indigenous Tribes'.

They say 'some areas are prohibited and others require permits'.

machadinha · Nov 6th, 2009, 12:30

That's funny, Theyyam; actually LP and like you say (and I'm quite sure a lot of those titles by whatever major publishers) answers and quite adequately about 95% of recurrent questions here.

Yet some prefer to not be encumbered by them (who, me? To be seen with a guidebook?! But that's so uncool!) And then others have the audacity to pretend they have done "all the research they could." Er, excuse me? To get a hold of a frikking guidebook would be the very first start, not some end result of in-depth research.

And again if the OP had cycled as much in India as they claim to, they wouldn't have these questions (tigers? I mean please.) I'm sorry, but I've tried to answer; and/but by now, I just ain't buying it.

theyyamdancer · Nov 6th, 2009, 12:35

The title of this thread sounds like a book title. My favourite lady-on-a-bike who writes about it is Dervla Murphy. She does have a habit though of exaggerating the masochistic bits of her journeys. I liked her Coorg travel book. (For real masochism though, check out her book about Ethiopia.)

Jorge Reverter · Nov 6th, 2009, 18:41

Is not possible to visit Bonda villages in Orissa. Years ago was more complicated the question of permits, now yopu only have to paid some taxes when reaching certain places.

Jorge

newislander · Nov 7th, 2009, 01:38

Blimey Machi, you've lost the plot. I don't mind if you don't believe me. It's no skin off my nose.

Theyyamdancer, I can't find the bit you are referring to. I know LP says one should go with a tour which is out of the question. Though I will take a guide when i am a place like Koraput and if i want to head south or go for a tour around.

Paying taxes on arriving at certain places. That's news too. I shall keep my ear to the ground.

KABAARY · Nov 7th, 2009, 02:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by machadinha

Can you give us a very quick reason why we should assume you are real? I don't, anymore, you see; and not with some of your comments on other threads and after your supposedly numerous bicycle tours around India either.

I can vouch for NI being real....virtually speaking. And yes, she has made bicycle tours around India...not numerous maybe as in repeated "bicycle" visits to India but certainly numerous in terms of the number of places within India she traversed on the bike on her last trip about a year back.....just thinking about that pains my quadriceps and hamstrings.

What's with the scepticism ? Have a one on one India quiz contest with her to test her out. Guess who I shall be betting on...

vonkla · Nov 7th, 2009, 04:16

Newislander
As for permits, have a look at the on-line version of the Rough Guides. http://www.roughguides.com/website/t...429566672_1060

I use Footprint, the 2005 edition, this also states that only the villages next to the roads may be visited without permit. And it continues these places have not much to do with the authentic tribal villages.

Something else, the terrain is very hilly and the roads are bad. I think that in the small villages along the road it will be difficult to find a place to sleep.

Nov 5th, 2009, 16:23	#17
vonkla Maha Guru Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Netherlands Posts: 562	We have visited the tribal areas in Orissa as well in Chhattisgarh but on a luxury way with a car + driver/guide. For the 2005 trip through Orissa we visited the tribal areas outside the normal tourist routes and according to our travel agent we needed permits for those areas. Since he arranged I don't know anything about the procedures. During both trips we regular controlled by police on the local haats. As for the visits to the tribal villages, those situated on the roads will not differ much from ordinary small villages except on the market days when the people of the surrounding areas come to it. I can understand that you don't want to travel the highways but I doubt that in this areas there are many other roads leading from one place to another. __________________ . See our travel journals Mumbai-Dehli in three months; From Kochi to Delhi

Nov 6th, 2009, 12:19	#24
theyyamdancer lost in Mechuka member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Crete Posts: 4,426	Actually Lonely Planet does mention the need for permits when visiting Orissa, IF you go to tribal areas. It is enclosed in one of their 'boxed' texts called 'Orissa's Indigenous Tribes'. They say 'some areas are prohibited and others require permits'. __________________ "Wandering seemed no more than the happiness of an anxious man." - Albert Camus

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Nov 5th, 2009, 22:57	#18
newislander Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Australia Posts: 67	Yes I have maps that show there are other roads than the highway. And when i look on google maps, i can also find small roads. However, I won't be using google maps but my German Maps which are very good. They don't indicate all the roads but enough for me to follow. If there are indeed such permits, then I am sure I will not have any trouble obtaining one when I need it. If there is a problem, then I will just travel along the highway. But it is odd that neither the guidebook nor the government tourist websites mention permits. Perhaps its just got to do with getting permission from a tribe that you are intending to visit. Anyway given the delicacy of the situation over there, I will just have to keep an open mind about what I can and can't do.

Nov 5th, 2009, 22:58	#19
newislander Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Australia Posts: 67	Vonkla do you know the names of the villages you went to?

Nov 6th, 2009, 01:49	#21
Jorge Reverter Maha Guru Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Murcia - Spain Posts: 1,465	Great article. It really comes down about the situation. I was visiting Chhattisgarh during a couple of weeks last October 2007 in special in Jagdalpur for the Dussehra celebrations and even have been in Barsur (the place in the pictures)to have a look at the temples (I've been a bit disappointed). In any case was one of the most interesting journeys I've done in India and of course I was absolutely aware of the naxalite's situation. About the best way from Gopalpur to Koraput/Jeypore: Go to Berhampur and from there to Taptapani (nice spring with some temples) and from there to Mohana, Adaba, Ramannaguda,Rayagada, Lakshmipur and Koraput. Roads are very scenic and the village have a nice ambiance even if there are always signs of the troubles between christians and hindous and military barracks here and there. Cannot advice to travel to the area but I want to go back soon. Jorge

Nov 6th, 2009, 03:57	#22
newislander Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Australia Posts: 67	Jorge, I was considering going from up from tatipani to baliguda. The roads might be too rough, i'm not sure. After Adaba, the road I was considering would take me to Gadapur then simanbadi then baliguda, then back down to tumudibandh, Kothagarh, and on to rayagada that way. But if that looks too hard, I will take the route you propose I think. Its good to know that the route is scenic and the village appealing. That is a yellow road on my map. I try to avoid those as much as possible because they seem to carry too much traffic which makes me feel unsafe. This road goes up through the hills where I believe would be many small villages. Perhaps I am trying to see more villages than I need to though. After all, I don't have all the time in the world but one does like to get off the beaten track if possible.

Nov 6th, 2009, 12:30	#25
machadinha brother my cup is empty member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: yörp Posts: 14,391	That's funny, Theyyam; actually LP and like you say (and I'm quite sure a lot of those titles by whatever major publishers) answers and quite adequately about 95% of recurrent questions here. Yet some prefer to not be encumbered by them (who, me? To be seen with a guidebook?! But that's so uncool!) And then others have the audacity to pretend they have done "all the research they could." Er, excuse me? To get a hold of a frikking guidebook would be the very first start, not some end result of in-depth research. And again if the OP had cycled as much in India as they claim to, they wouldn't have these questions (tigers? I mean please.) I'm sorry, but I've tried to answer; and/but by now, I just ain't buying it.

Nov 6th, 2009, 12:35	#26
theyyamdancer lost in Mechuka member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Crete Posts: 4,426	The title of this thread sounds like a book title. My favourite lady-on-a-bike who writes about it is Dervla Murphy. She does have a habit though of exaggerating the masochistic bits of her journeys. I liked her Coorg travel book. (For real masochism though, check out her book about Ethiopia.)

Nov 6th, 2009, 18:41	#27
Jorge Reverter Maha Guru Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Murcia - Spain Posts: 1,465	Is not possible to visit Bonda villages in Orissa. Years ago was more complicated the question of permits, now yopu only have to paid some taxes when reaching certain places. Jorge

Nov 7th, 2009, 01:38	#28
newislander Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Australia Posts: 67	Blimey Machi, you've lost the plot. I don't mind if you don't believe me. It's no skin off my nose. Theyyamdancer, I can't find the bit you are referring to. I know LP says one should go with a tour which is out of the question. Though I will take a guide when i am a place like Koraput and if i want to head south or go for a tour around. Paying taxes on arriving at certain places. That's news too. I shall keep my ear to the ground.

Nov 7th, 2009, 04:16	#30
vonkla Maha Guru Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Netherlands Posts: 562	Newislander As for permits, have a look at the on-line version of the Rough Guides. http://www.roughguides.com/website/t...429566672_1060 I use Footprint, the 2005 edition, this also states that only the villages next to the roads may be visited without permit. And it continues these places have not much to do with the authentic tribal villages. Something else, the terrain is very hilly and the roads are bad. I think that in the small villages along the road it will be difficult to find a place to sleep.