The Most Remote Place In India

steven_ber

It was 8:30 in the evening, a warm day in mid-March last year, I was 5 days into my latest India trip and still a little unsure of what lay ahead....

This was my first trip to places outside of the main tourist sites, I had been having many doubts before this trip, did I really love India as much as I thought? had I been swept along with the general excitement we always see on indiamike? why was I going to a colliery in Upper Assam when I'd been warned about the dangers by many people?

Flying into India I was painfully aware that I'm not a 'real' traveller, I'd only been to easy places and could have always got out any time I'd wanted, but experiences about 18 months earlier had led me to believe I could do anything and go anywhere, so I couldn't understand why I was so nervous.

The plane started it's descent into Delhi airport, as it dropped I felt the Indian air come into the cabin, all the smells that felt so familiar, all my fears were gone, I knew everything would be OK, I felt strangely at home, I felt excited, the tired feelings in my body were replaced with an urge to go for a long walk to nowhere.

...I was standing on Lumding (Assam) station having arrived more than 2 hours earlier....

On arrival I saw what looked like a festival, loads of lights, lots of happy faces, everyone gathered around a temple, so I went to investigate.

The scenes outside the temple were just the normal nightly scenes, but the sari's, the women, the smiles and the atmosphere were all beautiful, I decided to find some chai and watch some cricket.

Outside the northern entrance to the station was a chai stall, it was almost closed down for the night with most things packed away, I asked the owner where else sold chai, he explained that there was no milk and offered to make me a different kind of chai, I agreed, without hesitation he smiled and got everything out again and made me some red chai, this chai uses water, extra spice, chilli powder and less sugar, it was delicious, I sat watching the people outside the temple and had another of those 'THIS is why I love India' moments.

I went back through the station and out of Northern entrance, from the platform I had seen a cafe where lots of policemen were eating, it also had a TV, so this was the place to have some food.

The food was great, the policemen friendly, and the chair made available for me in front of the TV (and the crowd of people watching the TV) was cosy, I watched India win a one-day international away to Pakistan, the atmosphere in the cafe was electric.

....On the platform waiting for the overnight train to Silchar were hundreds of soldiers (there were soldiers everywhere I went in Assam), I soon got talking to a few and by the time I started laughing there must have been 40 soldiers surrounding me and trying to talk to me, they wondered why I was laughing, I explained that I had been warned of the dangers of travel in Assam, yet I was surrounded by an army, they all laughed and asked me to join them in their carriage for a few drinks.

Soon after, the train left Lumding, another one of those places that you never think of when you plan your trip, but you often think about after your trip, just another railway junction?

__________________
.
How to get helpful replies to your transport/Itinerary questions.


Train information.


RAC & Waitlists explained.

cyberhippie

Nice piece of writing Steven!!

torryquine

No, it really isn't that bad. You need to be aware of what the situation is and be a little cautious, that's all. The people are welcoming, gracious and hospitable. It's an area quite unspoiled by the negative effects of tourism.

Your pieces of writing were lovely Steve and reminded me of our very positive experiences of Assam. When our trip-plans were disrupted by the tsunami, we chose to go back to Upper Assam, when we could have gone anywhere in India. It's a unique place which we intend to return to again.

When I've got my exams out of the way, I'll write some pieces about the places we visited up there as it's an area that's worth the detour for all sorts of reasons.

__________________
http://werenotafraid.com/

MeCasa

Very nice writing Steven and interesting because I assumed that Assam being the safest and most populated of the states would be used to white faces, but apparently even Assam is considered off the beaten path. I'm glad to here that Assam is semi-safe and yet still remote from most tourists.

Arunachal Pradesh, which was the calmest of the states is currently having problems with Tibetan refugees, Negal rebels and Maoist rebels from Nepal all arguing over control..On the east is Nagaland, Manipur and Mizoram, each of these states are extremely beautiful in their own right but they are fraught with danger. Indian troops only enter these states in numbers since they are remote and not always under the control of Indian troops, who generally choose to ignore rather than confront the rebels The people are reputed to be friendly but as to how the rebels feel about tourists I have not yet been able to find out since there is no tourists, like most things to do with this area of the world, information is scarce.Tripura is a mixed bag of dangers, it's the headquarters of separatist rebels who want independence from India, the Indian army maintains a presence, but does not control very much of this state, it is widely reputed that Bangladesh is helping the Separatist rebels but all is not lost because they are fighting the Burmese rebels. That leaves Meghalaya, which may be the most beautiful of all the Sister States, they also have a mixed bag of rebels who have been know to ambush an occassional troop convoy Despite it all, I'm still very interested, these are some of the most remote, not to mention most beautiful places left in the world

This explains it all

Ikuru

For me the more beatyfull it got the lonelyer it felt.

But if where speaking externally, it would have been araving to Konark/Orisa. Allthough a "tourist" atraction I was the only trourist around for a while, well me an a couple of pothead french people.

__________________
http://www.ikuru.se My art.

MeCasa

Out of all the things I've read about the northeast, this quote about Nagaland got my attention the most, I laughed so hard I almost cried

Haha, that one problem I never anticipated

neddy

I absolutely loved Mizoram and Tripura, Nagaland, Meghalaya and Kaziranga.

I made report of my trip there in March/April which I will post here or email to anyone interested.
Mizoram was hardest state to get into but once you have sponser easily arranged. Again contact me if you need hints. Their voices were unbelievable and soooo friendly. Never did Manipur ... would have liked to but said to be most dangerous .... I must say in entire month in the North East I felt considerably safer than on the roads of New Delhi

Neddy

MeCasa

Hello neddy, I would like to hear more, you can post here for everyones knowledge or I PM'd you my email.

Whatever makes you comfortable

MeCasa

neddy

Here's the link to my NE trip report if you haven't found it ... needless to say what I saw of the NE I loved! Can't wait to get back there (sponsers welcome.

Report on my NE trip 2005

MeCasa

You're a good man, may god rain plentiful sex down upon your humble body

Thanks

mahimi

Hi Neddy.....so when are you coming again to mizoram ? Would like to inform you that the Chapchar Kut (spring festival ) which you witnessed this year falls on the 10 th of march next year...just in case ...you or friends or any of the IMERS are interested...Hope to see you soooon.

pranavganesh

well take my words ... india is full of places which havent been publicized and therefore you will see hardly any tourist over there ... though yes you can have the locals... also it depends on the timing ..as to when you are going ... my personal favourites are
Spiti valley... in Himachal Pradesh
Lansdowne and Pauri in Uttaranchal
bastar in Chattisgarh
Neermahal in Tripura (frankly just hop on aboat and boat in the night hours.. the most magical place you would have ever been)
Araku valley in Ap
and then from Bombay to Goa... you have n number of forts and beaches all are untapped to varying degrees.. find your... i will suggest devgad, anjarle, bhatye, jaitapur
yeah not to forget bangaram in lakhsdweep .. yeah you need a lots of moolah for it

biggan69

well i know this would qualify for the most darkest place in india
Asia's largest telescope is at a place called Kavalur close to Kangayam which is close to Vanniambadi in Tamil Nadu. It was found using remote-sensing by satellite as the most ideal place to set up an observatory where external light can be a factor. The telescope is huge at 93 inches diameter and was indegenously built by Dr Vaini Bapu after whom it is named.
Was very lucky to see Jupiter and Saturn through it.
Unfortunately it has become out of bounds to the public now (it was open to outsiders on saturdays before)and you need to get permission from the Indian Institute of Astrophysics at Bangalore to visit it.
Truly shows India's prowess.

Varun

Yumsongdong in North Sikkim comes close to "The remotest place in India". It's above the Yumthang valley and a good 120-130 Kms from Gangtok. It's the only place where I felt strange. Coz i hardly saw a soul around me for hours at a stretch. It was definitely the best few hours of my life. Listening to Jam's 'Thin Air' and chewing on cheese cubes made of yak milk, the only civillisation I saw after a couple of hours, while coming down to Yumthang Valley, was a group of Sikkimese kids who came out in the afternoon to play some cricket.

I'm travelling to Ladakh this Sep for two weeks hoping to rediscover the same strange feeling.

__________________
Thanks & Cheers,

Varun
http://little-tibet.blogspot.com

hitanshu

http://ocr.fotopic.net

One crazy Ride from the 60kph gang. Mindblowing isnt enough to describe the adventure!