Cherrapunjee, Northeast India

skinnylatte · Nov 23rd, 2006, 02:29

I spent some time in Cherrapunjee in August. Some of you already know this — Cherrapunjee used to be the wettest place in the world. It still is, kinda; one of the world's wettest inhabited places. I was there to write a feature about Cherrapunjee in the monsoon.

The nearest airport and railhead is at Guwahati, from which you have to take a taxi to Shillong (about Rs 100 per seat), then a taxi from Shillong to Cherrapunjee (you probably won't find someone else going to Cherra — so it's about Rs 900/1000 for the whole car).

There is no hotel in Cherrapunjee officially, most tourists come on a day trip from Shillong.

Why you should visit: it's charming and quaint!

Because there is no hotel in Cherrapunjee, we stayed in an old British dignitaries' house, now reserved for government officials when they visit Cherrapunjee. We worked out a deal through a taxi driver, who was also our friend and our guide, the 'know everybody, can get everything done in Meghalaya' guy. Though it was tedious — we had to go to the sub district office to write a letter requesting permission to stay: we got a quaint little room with a fireplace and a toilet for ... sixty rupees a night!

About 45 minutes away from the main town of Cherrapunjee, there's a resort called Cherrapunjee Holiday Home. They're at www.cherrapunjee.com. The guy who runs it is originally from Tamil Nadu, but he's lived here for ages.. and he's also Cherrapunjee's best salesman: he knows and cares a lot for the local language, culture, and rainfall levels! He offers comfortable and homely rooms in an out of this world setting. You literally get out of bed in the morning, rub your eyes, and watch the sun set over the Khasi Hills on one side, over Bangladesh on another. Your mobile phones go onto the Bangladeshi networks, but in a place like this... you don't really need technology!

The beauty of this locality is well known. The name of the state it's in, Meghalaya, means 'abode of the clouds'. We drove to the Green Rock Ranch for dinner and from there you can see the clouds hanging against the backdrop of the mountains in the distance. From Cherrapunjee you can go to see great sights like the many waterfalls, and the Living Roots Bridge.

The language spoken here is Khasi, as it is in Shillong, but almost everybody speaks English very well. The hilltribe culture is distinct. You get to chew on betel nuts everywhere you go, as a sign of affection.

For a place with an accolade of the world's wettest place — it certainly doesn't feel THAT wet. It sits on limestone and other porous rocks. 2 hours after the rain, it looks like it hasn't rained at all. On my first day someone in Cherrapunjee told me the people of Cherrapunjee see the rain as medicine. I thought: how could that be? Where I come from, rain was something to wish away.

When it finally rained in Cherrapunjee, I knew what they meant.

When I left Cherrapunjee, I felt like I left a bit of my heart behind.

shahronakm · Nov 23rd, 2006, 18:10

Nice write up. Thanks for the same. I have read a lot about Cherrapunjee on Internet & travel magazines. Would love to go there someday.

Ronak.

Nick-H · Nov 23rd, 2006, 19:46

'get out of bed in the morning and watch the sun set' --- sounds like the kind of hours I keep!

Seriously: it sounds very tempting, especially the govt. guest house

skinnylatte · Nov 23rd, 2006, 19:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick-H

'get out of bed in the morning and watch the sun set' --- sounds like the kind of hours I keep!

Seriously: it sounds very tempting, especially the govt. guest house

Yeah, my hours are terrible

Let me know if you need any information about Cherrapunjee. My article about it will be out in a coming issue of the Geographical UK magazine.

rangers · Nov 24th, 2006, 17:45

I left a bit of heart there last christmas.
Specially the colored houses among the monolothics and the drive to Cherapunjee from Shillong.

skinnylatte · Nov 25th, 2006, 15:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by rangers

I left a bit of heart there last christmas.
Specially the colored houses among the monolothics and the drive to Cherapunjee from Shillong.

Yeah, the drive was spectacular (especially when it's pouring, the rain swirling on that hairpin road and your driver driving like a maniac while blasting Nirvana.. apparently they all love rock music in this part of the India?)...

Driving back to Shillong at 3.30am (to catch the 6.15am car to Guwahati airport) was magical too. At around 4.30 as the sun rose the colour of the sky was a beautiful pinkish orange, over the Khasi Hills and over neighbouring Bangladesh. I'm not one for nature but I couldn't stop gawking.

Palexurdy · Nov 27th, 2006, 08:47

I'm sure there's a hotel there, right next to the seven sisters waterfall.

skinnylatte · Nov 27th, 2006, 10:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palexurdy

I'm sure there's a hotel there, right next to the seven sisters waterfall.

But that's not in Cherrapunjee town itself? It's quite a drive. Even when I stayed at the Cherrapunjee Holiday Home that was in Mawshemok village, some 26km away. It took about an hour's drive from Cherra town. We had to stay in those old government houses for a few days as we needed to be in a central location, and all the locals told us this was the only place in the town we could stay.

vpsingh · Jun 5th, 2007, 16:14

There are small hotels in Cherrapunjee town as well. But hardly any tourist would want to stay there. They are not clean even by Indian standards. The better ones are around waterfalls and always crowded by some senior government officials family.
It is better to do a trip from Shillong and back. There is hardly any greenery left around Cherrapunjee and waterfalls 'flow' only during rains. Ecological destruction at its best.
Better to visit Mawsynram, which now holds record for heaviest average rainfall per annum.

Nov 23rd, 2006, 02:29	#1
skinnylatte kungfu fighting dhaba wallah Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Singapore Posts: 269	Cherrapunjee, Northeast India I spent some time in Cherrapunjee in August. Some of you already know this — Cherrapunjee used to be the wettest place in the world. It still is, kinda; one of the world's wettest inhabited places. I was there to write a feature about Cherrapunjee in the monsoon. The nearest airport and railhead is at Guwahati, from which you have to take a taxi to Shillong (about Rs 100 per seat), then a taxi from Shillong to Cherrapunjee (you probably won't find someone else going to Cherra — so it's about Rs 900/1000 for the whole car). There is no hotel in Cherrapunjee officially, most tourists come on a day trip from Shillong. Why you should visit: it's charming and quaint! Because there is no hotel in Cherrapunjee, we stayed in an old British dignitaries' house, now reserved for government officials when they visit Cherrapunjee. We worked out a deal through a taxi driver, who was also our friend and our guide, the 'know everybody, can get everything done in Meghalaya' guy. Though it was tedious — we had to go to the sub district office to write a letter requesting permission to stay: we got a quaint little room with a fireplace and a toilet for ... sixty rupees a night! About 45 minutes away from the main town of Cherrapunjee, there's a resort called Cherrapunjee Holiday Home. They're at www.cherrapunjee.com. The guy who runs it is originally from Tamil Nadu, but he's lived here for ages.. and he's also Cherrapunjee's best salesman: he knows and cares a lot for the local language, culture, and rainfall levels! He offers comfortable and homely rooms in an out of this world setting. You literally get out of bed in the morning, rub your eyes, and watch the sun set over the Khasi Hills on one side, over Bangladesh on another. Your mobile phones go onto the Bangladeshi networks, but in a place like this... you don't really need technology! The beauty of this locality is well known. The name of the state it's in, Meghalaya, means 'abode of the clouds'. We drove to the Green Rock Ranch for dinner and from there you can see the clouds hanging against the backdrop of the mountains in the distance. From Cherrapunjee you can go to see great sights like the many waterfalls, and the Living Roots Bridge. The language spoken here is Khasi, as it is in Shillong, but almost everybody speaks English very well. The hilltribe culture is distinct. You get to chew on betel nuts everywhere you go, as a sign of affection. For a place with an accolade of the world's wettest place — it certainly doesn't feel THAT wet. It sits on limestone and other porous rocks. 2 hours after the rain, it looks like it hasn't rained at all. On my first day someone in Cherrapunjee told me the people of Cherrapunjee see the rain as medicine. I thought: how could that be? Where I come from, rain was something to wish away. When it finally rained in Cherrapunjee, I knew what they meant. When I left Cherrapunjee, I felt like I left a bit of my heart behind.

Nov 23rd, 2006, 18:10	#2
shahronakm Maha Guru Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Mumbai, India Posts: 1,377	Nice write up. Thanks for the same. I have read a lot about Cherrapunjee on Internet & travel magazines. Would love to go there someday. Ronak. __________________ My Picture Gallery

Nov 23rd, 2006, 19:46	#3
Nick-H Loud-mouthed, Noisy Bird Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Chennai, India Posts: 25,826	'get out of bed in the morning and watch the sun set' --- sounds like the kind of hours I keep! Seriously: it sounds very tempting, especially the govt. guest house __________________ . Just one member of the IndiaMike Mod Team

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Nov 24th, 2006, 17:45	#5
rangers Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: India Posts: 450	I left a bit of heart there last christmas. Specially the colored houses among the monolothics and the drive to Cherapunjee from Shillong.

Nov 27th, 2006, 08:47	#7
Palexurdy Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: UK Posts: 155	I'm sure there's a hotel there, right next to the seven sisters waterfall.

Jun 5th, 2007, 16:14	#9
vpsingh Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: New Delhi Posts: 101	There are small hotels in Cherrapunjee town as well. But hardly any tourist would want to stay there. They are not clean even by Indian standards. The better ones are around waterfalls and always crowded by some senior government officials family. It is better to do a trip from Shillong and back. There is hardly any greenery left around Cherrapunjee and waterfalls 'flow' only during rains. Ecological destruction at its best. Better to visit Mawsynram, which now holds record for heaviest average rainfall per annum.

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