Mumbai (Bombay) - All the glitz of big city life.

somewhere to sit


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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 08:40   #1
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somewhere to sit

i arrive in colaba wide-eyed and probably slightly nervous in the late afternoon (on jan 3rd )and i need some advice on where to sit and absorb the place for the first time.

any good spots?
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 08:44   #2
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Leopolds. Open on two sides to the street and you can see the comings and goings, have a beer and either USA type food or Indian food. Clean and safe. No Ghandi's revenge. Really enjoyed it! Street is tout heavy but won't bother you while you are sitting there even tho it is right on the walk. I think the staff is on them heavy if they bug customers. Have fun!

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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 08:48   #3
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Good choice. Found it slightly overpriced and touristed and wasn't big on their food, but it's a classic and a good place to unwind and watch the crowds go by.

Am I right thinking Mondegar's is the one at the beginning of Colaba Causeway (same street)? Gets likewise recommended here. Back then and if it's the same place it had just opened I think and hence had more of an Indian clientele (and endless runs of Hotel California etc. going on), but/and it was quite a nice joint for what it was.
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 08:51   #4
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Anywhere (inside or outside) around Mumbai CST station, it's an awesome place to 'people watch', you see all sorts of people carrying all sorts of things.
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 08:56   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunkymonkey View Post
i arrive in colaba wide-eyed and probably slightly nervous in the late afternoon (on jan 3rd )and i need some advice on where to sit and absorb the place for the first time.

any good spots?
Oops, just read your post again.

If you want to sit down and absorb Colaba, I agree with the first 2 replies, fight your way through the touts and have a touristy experience in Leopolds.

If you want to absorb India, CST is a good choice.
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 09:10   #6
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I would give the sea wall at the Gateway of India a try, except that I do not know how bad the touts and beggars will be.

If too much, you can always escape to Leopolds.
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 09:16   #7
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Capt M has a great point! But for first day, the touts can be AWFUL. BUT they are speratic (sp) we found it almost tout free one day and just STUPID with them a different time. Literaly could not take 7 steps and not either have someone pushing something at you or trying to follow you. Could be awsome or overwhelming. But the people watching is great here!

Kim
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 09:25   #8
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I would give the sea wall at the Gateway of India a try, except that I do not know how bad the touts and beggars will be.
Agree, I love sitting by the sea wall.

As with anywhere in Mumbai (apart from Colaba, the fort area and the dhobi ghats), beggars can be a hassle (no more than that), but touts are nowhere to be seen.

EDIT - Oh, I'm really not awake yet, I thought you were talking about the massive bay at the other side (can't remember the name, the one that goes to Chowpatty), the hassle at the gateway can be awful.
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 09:32   #9
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Captain, it sounded like a good idea to me too, but I was baffled by the extensive construction work going on around the Gateway. Makes access a bit complicated and stressful, maybe not the ideal first contact with Mumbai I'd say.

Machadinha, I found Mondegar's a nice place. Mixed Indian / tourist crowd, a bit overpriced but not that much (actually probably not for that kind of joint in Mumbai). Very kind waiters. Although it was lunch time nobody tried to push food. Inside "frescoes" designed by the same guy who did Benjoe's railway restaurant in Margao, fun to watch.

Phunkymonkey : if you arrive at CST I'd like to suggest that you walk out of the station, walk straight on, cross that big road (watch out!) and just take the first street in front of you, the one with Xerox and paper shops. A couple of blocks down, there will be several local restaurants / bars open to the street, from which you can watch India roll by, and as Steven pointed out it's a great area to do so. You won't be bothered by touts there, it's just a very busy and fun to watch street. Found it perfect to take out all my maps and film schedules and get organized.
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 09:35   #10
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Oops, too many replies I think.

Away from Colaba, Banganga Tank is a great place to sit for a few hours, it's so peaceful that you'll forget you're in a big city.

It's located on Malabar hill and is a small tank (kind of like an outdoor swimming pool with loads of steps all around it), the tank is surrounded by temples and homes, people come to the tank to pray, relax and wash clothes, and small kids come to...be kids, I think they're supposed to be washing themselves, but they soon start swimming and playing games.

The area around Banganga Tank is also worth exploring, they have their own dhobi ghats, nice small shops, and some steps down to the sea.

Also on Malabar hill, there is a Jain temple, and some good open parks on top of the hill, then at the end of the day there is Chowpatty beach at the bottom of Malabar hill. (A great day out can be had in the whole area).
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 09:44   #11
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wow! so many replies thank you
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 09:44   #12
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thought you were talking about the massive bay at the other side (can't remember the name, the one that goes to Chowpatty), the hassle at the gateway can be awful.
Thats Marine Drive, another good place.

Now that we have included Banganga etc, adding to Steve's post,:

-Banganga
-Hanging Gardens, inside. (Steven's 'park')
-Girgaum Chowpatty, you can walk down from the Hanging gardens in pretty quick time.
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 11:28   #13
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I agree btw, there are very attractive-looking local cafes (as in bars, very simple mind, think formica tables and neon lighting) in parts of town, that will be a whole lot cheaper than those tourist affairs. I saw many on the way to a market in a Muslim area -- I think this must have been Chor (Thieves') Bazar, but I can't be sure. Nice in its own right.

For a new arrival though, I reckon Colaba might be easier. Or hanging around at the station as described, perhaps. Can't remember too much trouble at the Gateway btw, but this may well have worsened. The Hanging Gardens I missed but I hear it's good. Haji Ali's tomb is another of those places still on my list. How that would fill in to people watching I don't know.

I think I've advised Phunky before to mostly take it easy on arrival. S/he'll be back in Mumbai a couple of times after I think, when it'll probably be easier to appreciate the place. What may have struck you as chaos and general mayhem at first may well strike you as perfectly normal once you've eased into it all a little.
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Old Dec 24th, 2007, 19:50   #14
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i certainly hope so. i've picked a few places to see over the first 3 days, and then i'll pick up what i missed on the return leg before my flight home in april.

this should probably be in the itinerary bit but what the hell....

first afternoon = leopold's and a stroll along colaba causeway to take it all in

day one proper = sunrise (sasoon dock maybe?) then elephanta island on the first boat out. back in the early afternoon to walk marine drive to chowpatty, then on to kamala nehru park for some photos of the city, banganga tank and the hanging gardens which should take me to the evening and some chowpatty bhelpuri.

day two is all about the fort and kala ghoda action - csmvs museum, keneseth eliyahoo synagogue, university, high court, st. thomas' cathedral, monetary museum and cst.

day three is slightly more adventurous, kotachiwadi in the morning and then up to mahalaxmi dhobi ghat. after that i'm jut going to wander, i reckon i'll be more comfortable and willing to get a bit lost

how does that sound for easing myself into india?
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Old Dec 25th, 2007, 01:50   #15
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Sounds nice enough. Walking there and like in any foreign place, I found one tends to underestimate distances & guidebook maps tend to typically look more optimistic than they should (and forget to tell you streets may not be signposted or if so in a foreign script, not to mention all the roads and winding alleys they conveniently haven't listed) & you'll generally not be all that sure of where you're going and don't want to be looking at a map advertizing you're lost all the time, & walking down an unknown street always seems to take twice as long as walking down there once you know it...

Other than that, it's nice to walk around there Have some spare cash at the ready for a taxi back just in case.

I had planned on walking to Sassoon Dock at dusk to see the fishermen haul in their catch (or that's what guidebooks say they do). Was further than I thought and I started to feel uncomfortable at some point, it gets pretty shabby after a while (or it did at the time), so I retraced my steps. It's supposed to be nice though, and at dawn at least you'll have the light on your side.

Bhelpuri is an absolute must, of course. Anyway, I'm sure you'll enjoy yourself.

Last edited by machadinha : Dec 30th, 2007 at 02:33.
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