Moving to Calcutta in July

I was wondering whether anyone in the forum lives in Calcutta/Kolkata. My son (13), greyhound, cat, and I are moving within the next 30 days (pending a challenging passport/visa issue). I already have a job near the Stadium in Salt Lake City, but I really don't have a good feel for the city. I would like to live in Salt lake, preferably in a high-rise (is this advised - fire safety, elevator reliability, etc.) The company I will be working for has been helpful in arranging things, but I don't know what school would be best for my son Will, how to hire and manage household staff, what to do for fun, both as a family and as a single parent. I'd like to join an expat club, but I can't seem to find anything suitable.

I lived in Mumbai a couple of decades ago, so I have some idea of the culture. I know some of what my son will go through because I was 15 when I moved to Mumbai. I know many things have changed, but it still will be quite overwhelming at first for him. Finding the right school will be important. I am looking at the Calcutta International School... Does anyone have experience with it? Can anyone recommend a bass guitar teacher? Is there anything even remotely resembling a skatepark?

What exactly are the expectations each household staff member should be held to? What are the typical work hours for a cook, housekeeper and car and driver? Do I need a separate dog walker?
What would be typical salaries? Do I pay for healthcare or other benefits? Do I need servant quarters? What records would I need to keep? Should I hire an accountant or financial advisor to manage my household affairs?

Will an estate agent assist me in processing orders for my utilities such as cable, gas, electricity? I am budgeting $40K rupees per month for all residence expenses including staff, rent, utilities, and car. Am I being completely unrealistic?

I would love to meet up with others in Calcutta. I would love to email back and forth now so that I won't feel so all alone when I get there. Learning more about the do's and dont's would help tremendously. It's one thing to move to a foreign land by yourself; it's another to pull up roots on a teenager and pets... Thanks for any advice you can provide.

Namaste,
Jeanne
http://american-in-calcutta.blogspot.com/

Jeanneleez, welcome to indiamike

Answering whatever I do know inline in colour; I have lived in Calcutta many years ago, and in any case, some of the questions have all India answers:

Will leave the other stuff to somebody who is in Calcutta now... but now its Kolkata

I've spent the last three days on this site, just soaking in the information. Everyone here in Chicago keeps giving me the smirk and the question, "Why on earth would you want to move to India?". It's nice to know other people understand and see India for what it actually can provide.

Thank you! :-)

-- Jeanne
http://american-in-calcutta.blogspot.com/

As Nina Hagen sang: "And you are not alone!! Rrrememmberrrr it's trrrueeee..."

It's not just in Chicago that you get such questions. My husband and I (along with our 2 year old son, Sean) are moving to Calcutta in August due to my husband's career path taking us there. We're currently in PA, and I get these questions all the time!

I, too, have done some reading and research prior to our move. I found Culture Shock: India to be a tremendous resource in navigating household help issues. There is also an International Women's Club in Kolkata. (Ask the wife of the US Consul for more info about the club.) The Tollygunge Club might also be of interest. It's a holdover from the British Raj, and its members are still pretty much Kolkata society and some corporate members. The Tolly Club, as it's called, might be a bit far from you if you're in Salt Lake since it's in South Kolkata.

I have a blog as well. Maybe we can compare our experiences once I complete my move? A Yankee Mom in the City of Joy. Hope your adjustment goes smoothly!

I will be moving to Calcutta this summer, not quite sure on the dates yet. I will have a job provided house, not sure where, but near the diplomatic area likely. I am interested in availability of good internet, tv, and vets. I will bring a dog and a cat so I'm hoping I can get care if needed.

I'm very excited having visited Rajastan in Nov. Dec and am glad I got the job in Calcutta. I saw your blogs and it's great to see Americans having a good time there. There doesn't seem to be a lot on the web concerning life in Calcutta as an expat. I have a a large desire to join the polo club, if only as a leisure rider, and wonder if it's possible.

Anyway, comments are welcome.

Ah, good internet, tv and vets. :-) Let's start with internet. I use a wireless service at Alliance Cable (tel. 09339742255) for 1,200 rupees a month. It is slow but rarely goes down. Many of my friends use their LAN cable which is cheaper.

I have Tata Sky satellite TV. I HATE THEM!!! My service went down November 2nd and it took them until early February to reestablish my service. Their customer service is notoriously bad. I spent many hours on hold trying to reach them, and eventually found the email for customer support on the web site. Once I finally established contact, they were okay, although their response is always "tomorrow, we'll come". I went New York on them - I got my service by not accepting their standard way of doing business, clearly demanding my expectations. I have their platinum package which is about Rs. 300/month and can be paid at their web site. If you go with them, only pay a month at a time. They will contact you if you let the money run out. All this occurred 2 days after I paid 3 months in advance. Go figure.

Still looking for a decent vet. There's one in Salt Lake that comes recommended, and a friend with an elderly small dog with lots of medical problems swears by his. I haven't had need for a vet's services yet, so can't recommend. I have contact information if you want to arrange a visit with either - let me know.

IMHO, the Tolly Club is really for old farts, social climbers and ultra-conservatives. Same with the Polo Club. Personally, I feel more comfortable in clubs like Rangers. Much more relaxed, more accepting of other cultures... just more fun. If you enjoy country club exclusivity with all the trimmings, good and bad, Tolly's the place to be. If you just want a place to hang out with other people, have a few pints and play a game of pool with the game on, Rangers and other clubs of that ilk, will make you feel very comfortable.

That said, it's always nice to know a member at the Tolly or other clubs like that. :-) We spent New Year's Day at the races in Royal Calcutta Race Course. Because we were guests of a member, we were able to sit in a member's box right at the finish line instead of in the sunny grandstands... Membership DOES have its privileges. :-)

When you know the area you'll be staying in, I may be able to help suggest other places for getting stuff done. There is a large community of expats living in Salt Lake, but there is a significant community living in the Santoshpur part of Kol in the south. I like that part of the city best. Ambuja, a small shopping area in Santoshpur features a western style mall, food store, shopping center, liquor stores, DVD rental, take-away joints, fresh produce and fish markets and a convenience store. There's even a great little bar called Gossip, too. I'm considering moving there, but I'm still trying to settle in myself!

Good luck with your move.

Fantastic! Much appreciated. As soon as I know my movement date I'll recontact--though maybe sooner! I'm very excited and glad to know the comforts of home are there when needed. I've been overseas for 8 years and am happy in the overseas life though still an american at heart.

jeanne:
cal seems to have taken to you - read your blogs that is great.
have you been to the CC&FC [calcutta cricket and football club]? its near gurusaday road - lots of sports, like rangers AND got their own pool and a great bar not so hoity-toity as tolly, friendlier just a tad more formal than the rangers club. cc&fc have lots of them club nights which are good fun and got a friendly, easy going crowd of all ages. try it out. you too ankab... and welcome to cal ankab.


:brishti

Thanks again for the recommendations. I will likely be living around central calcutta (what do people call it, kolkata or calcutta?), though I won't know for a few months. The job will place me so not much choice there. I'll have to buy a car when I get there; I am in love with the Ambassador--is it a practical choice? I will probably hire a driver too.