Ambling in the Abode of Clouds

We crossed the Dawki river and went straight to Tamabil border. There is a no-man’s land between the two countries. As we neared the Bangladesh side, their police asked us to set foot on their soil. But we’re apprehensive, so we checked with Indian personnel and then slowly walked on the other side – without any passport and visa. However, we’re very cautious – if they ran after us, we’d start sprinting at once!

We came back to Dawki, took lunch at a restaurant, ate the forbidden fruit by photographing the beautiful bridge and moved ahead.

Photos 1,2 : Tamabil border
Photo 3 : View of the Dawki river
Photo 4 : Dawki river bridge
Photos 5,6 : Views from the bridge

So beautiful are the photos (of course the flowers too, they deserve a stoppage really!!!), mousourik. Very nice, I must say.

We took the Riwai – Dawki Road which follows the international border. There were many hibiscus plants along this road, greeting and waving at us warmly. The hills of Meghalaya has suddenly given away to the plains of Bangladesh, so this has created many cliffs, and many waterfalls also. We virtually saw the end of the Himalayas. As we’re travelling at a higher elevation, we could enjoy a wide view of the neighbouring country.

First we came across the Sangita falls. Then there was the awe inspiring Borhil falls at Lyngkhat, overlooking the green land of Bangladesh.

Photo 1 : Sangita falls
Photo 2 : Borhil falls
Photo 3 : View of the Bangladesh plains at Lyngkhat opposite Borhil falls
Photo 4 : Touch-me-not flowers near Borhil falls
Photo 5 : View of the road near Borhil

Khublei,mousourik, Thanks for posting great photos.I recollect my childhood.I was there 30 years ago with my parents went by car from Guwhati to Shillong then I saw Barapani lake and airport in the way. and also went Dawki border of Banladesh. I belong to desert part of India and I saw first time mountain and fountain

Khublei, Duronto Jajabar.

Vinod, you're most welcome. And we strongly feel that you must visit this region again. If we can inspire you to do so by igniting your childhood memory, then this trip report will be a success.

Yes, mousourik I definitely go again.I remember there was a elephant falls near Shillong do you know about it or may be other name now.

Our next destination was Riwai village which is famous for a Living Root Bridge. We had to trek approximately 200 metres to reach this wonder. It’s really amazing how the roots of trees have been trained to form this bridge over a mountain stream.

Some boys were practising archery at Riwai village, perhaps with an ambition to participate in the archery competition at Shillong someday. They didn’t have any bow; they were throwing the arrows with hand.

Our last stop for the day was at a balancing rock. Then we retired for the night at a tree house at Mawlynnong.

Photo 1 : Riwai village
Photos 2,3,4 : Living Root Bridge
Photo 5 : Trekking route to the bridge
Photo 6 : Archery practice at Riwai village
Photo 7 : Kids at Riwai village
Photo 8 : Balancing Rock

Elephant falls - more of it later. Please hold your patitence.

thanks for sharing a very nice travelogue mousourik...waiting for the remaining....and i am searching for a location for my honeymoon...but don't think it might be meghalaya..as the time is mid-July..and the weather issues...storing it for the next time...

Khublei, anupam.

Yes, mid-July may not be the best time to go there. Perhaps post-monsoon period will be the best.

Staying at the tree house was a unique experience. At the end of the village near the church, two houses have been built with bamboo on the sloping face of a hill. One house had four beds, while the one where we stayed had a double bedroom, one balcony that stands amidst trees, another small room and a small balcony fitted with a basin. The house was shaking a little bit as we’re moving. There was a common toilet, which was to be shared by all. It was clean, and four persons could use it at the same time. However, we were the only tourists there.

A little after we entered there in the afternoon, it started raining. We’re sipping tea sitting at the balcony and looking at the wild forest in front, as a mountain stream was flowing a little away. We could have a glimpse of the stream though the trees. Evening descended, and they came to greet us – insects of various types, large centipedes that we had never seen before. We switched off the bedroom light; only the lamp at the balcony was lit to keep them away.

Two girls from the village were bringing us food and water. We decided to have dinner at the tree house itself because of the rains; otherwise one could go to another guesthouse nearby where the meal was being prepared.

It rained heavily throughout the entire night, sometimes there was thunder also which seemed to have struck some nearby trees. The mountain stream was roaring at the top of its voice.

Photo 1 : A skywalk taken out from the balcony of the larger house supported on the trees
Photo 2 : The tree house where we stayed
Photo 3 : A branch full of fungi kept at the balcony of the larger house
Photo 4 : Inside our room

A few queries, if I may be allowed:

- I distinctly remember, back in January 2010, when I was preparing my spring 2010 trip to Shillong, you had advised me not to fly from Kolkata to Shillong as there was a risk of flights being cancelled.

What made you decide to take this flight? Which airline is it and how often do they fly?

- Having seen photos of the Double Decker Living Root Bridges, and having visited one of the less well-known Living Root Bridges near Cherra myself, please tell us your thoughts on your visit at Riwai.

What made you choose Riwai over and above the more famous Living Root Bridges nearer to Sohra?

- At the risk of playing "agent provocateur", isn't the nomenclature Meghalaya taken from Sanskrit?



Thanks in advance for any response.

1. We took a calculated risk. The flight is operated by Air India, though not everyday. We've always felt that this airline is very untrustworthy (a personal opinion). Even a couple of days before commencement of our journey, there was a strike by pilots, which raised our blood pressure. We found that going to Guwahati and then moving to Shillong by car would make us reach there almost at the same time. Hence we opted for this direct route. But frankly, we're very tensed all the time as flights on these small routes can be cancelled any time because number of passengers will be much less than that on any metro route.

2. We planned to stay at Mawlynnong. After going through the trip report of KSBluechip, we came to know of this living root bridge at Riwai. Previously we had never heard of it. We're very much aware of our strengths and weaknesses. We knew that trekking to the double decker bridge at Cherra would be beyond our capability. So we're too happy to read that such a bridge was very easily accessible at Riwai.

3. Many Bengali (or any north Indian language for that matter) words have their origin to Sanskrit. But those are treated as Bengali words rather than Sanskrit. For example, many English words may have their origin linked to Latin, or Greek perhaps. But they are treated as English words nonetheless. "Meghalaya" is definitely a valid Sanskrit word. But one fact should be kept in mind that there was a heavy presence of Bengali people in Assam and Meghalaya, which was a part of the former. Before introduction of Roman script to the Khasis, the Bengali script was in vouge. Hence it won't be much of an exaggeration if it is said that Meghalaya is a Bengali word.

Many thanks for your replies.

Please carry on with the excellent trip report.

There was a strike called all over Meghalaya on this day. So we’re forced to spend the entire day here. As the rain stopped for a while, we went out to explore the village. A bamboo structure named Sky View has been made to provide view of the adjoining areas from the top of the trees. At first it was a bit cloudy. After some time the clouds cleared somewhat and we could see the Bangladesh plains which, because of poor visibility, seemed to be clouds at first sight.

It was getting dark again, so we came down quickly. Nearby, a lady was selling some handicrafts made of wood. As we tried to communicate with her in Hindi, she asked us – in English – to speak in English. This was something interesting that we found in entire Meghalaya. People are more comfortable in English than Hindi – perhaps because of Missionary presence.

There was a heavy downpour and we took shelter in somebody’s balcony. Then we roamed about in the village. It was really picturesque. There is a conscious effort to make it look beautiful. Almost every household had gardens of flowering plants. The courtyards and village roads were absolutely clean. When we came back to our room, we found two young ladies sweeping the sloped area below the tree houses. It was raining again and they were completely drenched. Was there a pressure of living upto the reputation of once being Asia’s cleanest village ?

Photo 1 : The Sky View
Photo 2 : Bangladesh plains as seen from top of the Sky View
Photo 3 : The lady selling handicrafts
Photo 4 : The Mawlynnong church