Elora/Ajanta caves....worth the trip?

I'm not really sure how far the caves are from Bombay, but is it worth the trip? I vaguely remember somebody telling me a few years ago that it was a long trip and not really worth it in the end. What do you think?

We just posted a similar reply recently, but we can safely say that it is worth traveling to India to see Ajanta alone. (You know, unless you're not into that kind of stuff.) You can fly to Aurangabad. And if you are young it is quite cheap to do so.

Some people just love the caves, as Namaste India Tours says, and I've heard people rave like they've found the most magical place on earth. When I went to the Ajanta caves I walked *slowly* through them all and reemerged just two hours later, rather bored. So, I guess it just depends what you're looking for.

Did you visit all thirty caves? What was the temperature like in the caves compared to the outside temperatue?

Ellora is nice, too. Don't miss the Daulatabad Fort on the way from Aurangabad--which will probably be more enjoyable than the caves, especially if you tour the tunnels where defenders poured boiling oil on the attackers. Do also make your way to the summit.

Aurangabad is about eight hours from Mumbai by train, if I recall correctly. The night train is an easy trip.

We have visited every cave in Ellora and Ajanta. 'Can't imagine being bored. It is not as cool inside the caves as you might imagine because they are carved into the side of a hill and get the full afternoon or morning sun and have very large openings. Subterrainean (sp?) caves stay consistently cool, but these do not. Certainly cooler than out in the sun however!! The artwork in the caves in Ajanta are unlike anything we have seen in India. Far more free-hand and three dimensional than the usual classical art. This is one attraction that is being managed well and you'll see lots of conservation going on. And there are actually lights inside so you can see what you paid to see--not always the case in India even if you've paid $5 US to see it.

In my two trips to India, it was one of the best things I experienced. It was not difficult to get to - overnight train from Mumbai. It is hard to imagine how people worked on those wonderful things by hand all those years ago. If you liked places like Ranakpur, you will love this ... but different people, different tastes.

Ellora, Ajanta, , , ,

Simply divine, dahling!

Funny story from two weeks ago at Ajanta. A Japanese man (with minimal English skills) went up to the guard at the entrance to the sequence of caves, the first cave being numbered "1" obviously. He said, looking distressed, "Need #2". Well, # 2 is the universally understood euphemism (sp?) for pooping, a request which is taken very seriously in India. So the guard said "at #16 you can #2". The Japanese man looked more distressed. "No! I need #2". Now the guard is distressed because, clearly, the man is about to poop in his pants. "Go #16, go #16!" "No, #2, need #2!" Back and forth, back and forth, well, you get the idea, with the Japanses man's face getting redder and redder. Finally, some concerned bystanders took charge and tried to lead the man to Cave #16. As they were encouraging him to follow them he passed Cave #2. "Ah, #2!!!" he exclaimed. You should have seen the look on his would-be rescuers faces!

I am planning to stay two days seeing the caves of Ellora and Ajanta. Is this reasonable?

as long as they are FULL DAYS yeah. One could arrive in Aurangabad the night before, and be rested. One could leave the secopnd evening. These 2 sites are INTENSE! You will quickly realize you are in VERY special places.

Ref the title of this thread I have indeed made the decision to go ... but I have a query ref the travelling:

I will be going from Delhi to Goa on the Nizamuddin Vasco Goa Express, and was planning stopping over for the caves. I'd arrive at 'day 1', go to visit the caves, spend the night and catch the same train again the morning after.

Questions:
1. At what station should I get off? On the map it looks like Chalisgaon (btw is this the same as Jalgaon that appears in the 'Trains at a Glance' book?) is the closest, but I don't know whether the train stops there... If not, Manmad?
2. How to get to the caves - Ellora or Ajanta - from that station (whichever it is) and back?
3. Any recommendeations on where to stay (I'm a sub-200 budget traveller)?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Jalgaon's the place. Walk out of the station and go straight ahead (ignoring all the offers of transport) and on the left after about 200m you'll find the hotel recommended in Rough Guides that has cheap rooms and who can help you get to the bus (2 hours I beleive it was) that will drop you right at the shops outside the Ajanta entrance where you need to get on a 10Rs bus that will bring you to the entrance deeper in the valley).
Afterwards, just walk out and wait along the road for the first bas passing by, there should be something every 10-20 minutes.

I visited Ajanta in the hot season and it was OK despite the 38° heat. Drink lots of water. The caves were very impressive - more so if you take a good guidebok or hire a guide who can explain the basics and point out the details you'd otherwise surely miss. Bring your own flashlight if you want to see stuff more clearly. After Ajanta, I have visited 2 similar Unesco-listed Buddhist cave complexes in China, but they certainly do not meet Ajanta's standards.
Tip: at the end of the line of caves there's a nice little shady park down by the (dry) river with monkeys messing around in the trees and people trying to sell you overpriced shards of mountain crystal. Good place for a picknick.

Your plan to stop at Jalgaon is a good one. The Indian Railways website is jammed at present so I am referring to my 2001 Trains at a Glance - the train doesn't stop at Jalgaon so you will have to leave the train at Bhusawal Junction(about 0745) and there are plenty of local trains to Jalgaon. Check the IR website later!

If you show your onward ticket to Goa on arrival at Jalgaon station, you could book a bed at the retiring rooms upstairs in the station - very cheap and quite comfortable dorm beds (I think I paid about 80/-). Get an autorickshaw to the bus station (about 2km away) and catch a bus to Ajanta - about 2 hours for the journey. This means that you get to Ajanta Caves by lunchtime at the latest. All afternoon there and get a bus back to Jalgaon in time for dinner at 7pm. Plenty of great restaurants.

Back to the station have a good sleep and get up at 5.30 then get a train to Bhusawal. Have a leisurely breakfast while you wait for the express to Vasco da Gama. Arrive 24 hours later in Goa.

If you can't get a bed in the retiring room, the Hotel Plaza is only 50m on the left from the station - good rooms and a nice host who is very knowledgeable about many things - I spent my first night there and my second at the station (on his recommendation!!)

I have met nobody who regretted going to Ajanta.

Magnus

Sorry if you already know the following.



You can do both journeys on the Goa Express for the price of a single by using the 'break of journey' rules.

You would need to complete the reservation form using the following information.

See the image below for reference. (though a different journey details are on thet reservation form.)


Train No. & Name = 2780 - Goa Express

Date Of Journey = 01/12/2004 (for example)

Class = 2A.... No. of Berths/Seats = 1

Station From = H. Nizamuddin. (Stn.) To = Madgaon (Goa).
This refers to ticket.


Boarding At = H. Nizamuddin. Reservation Upto = Bhusaval
This refers to reservation.


Then in the 'Onward Journey details' section in the bottom half of the reservation form, you would need to put the following: -

Train No. & Name = 2780 - Goa Express

Date = 03/12/2004
(remember, the onward journey date will be 2 days later if your getting off the train for 24 hours, as you would already be in day 2 when you break your journey.)

Station From = Bhusaval. To = Madgaon (Goa).


A single from H. Nizamuddin to Madgaon will cost: -
(including 2 x reservation charge.)

2A = Rs 2304
3A = Rs 1480
SL = Rs 557

The cost of a single to Bhusaval, then another single to Madgaon will cost: -

(both sections are the same distance)

2A = Rs 1559 x 2 = Rs 3118
3A = Rs 1005 x2 = Rs 2010
SL = Rs 377 x2 = Rs 754



You would need to buy two singles if you're booking your tickets from abroad and would therefore lose out on the savings available.