Bateshwar, Mitawali and Padawali

alouise · Aug 30th, 2009, 00:23

Hi everyone,

Starting a new thread as searches with various spellings are not turning up anything on these three temple sites 30-45 km NE from Gwalior in the Morena district of Madhya Pradesh.

Understandable. The Morena district, Chambal Valley, was legendary for dacoits. It was really bad in the early 1980s, when Phoolan Devi was ruling "Queen of the Dacoits". But times have changed, as they do, and these days retired or should one say "rehabilitated" Chambal dacoits now work for ASI guarding Khajuraho temple sites from vandalism! Ah the irony ......

Anyway, as train tracks bypass this area of hills and ravines, I was thinking of hiring a taxi for a day trip from Gwalior. There are many standing temples at Bateshwar and Padawati, with intricate carvings, dating from 8 - 13 th centuries. Apparently they're important historical sites, although little visited. And I read where the circular mountaintop shrine to Shiva at Mitawali even inspired the design of the Indian parliament! But then I guess if you're working in Morena tourism you'd probably say anything to sell the local tourist attractions.

Nonetheless, there may be some truth to how great this area is. Sihunya temple is also in the Morena district and I've seen the amazing sculptures from there in the small museum near Man Singh Palace at Gwalior Fort. The Sihuniya sculptures exhibit finer workmanship than those at Khajuraho, and the museum entry cost is such a bargain by comparison at Rs 2 - but going to Khajuraho to see the temple architecture as well as the tour groups of hand-holding Indian youths ogling the erotic sculptures is still worthwhile.

So what I would like to know is if anyone has recently visited the temples of Bateshwar, Mitawali and Padawal? If you have, what are the road conditions like? Are they doable in a Tata Indica? That seems to be the taxi vehicle most often available. Another thing, are there still dacoits in the area .... ie ones who haven't yet been "rehabilitated" as modern-day Dvarapalis? In short, would I have much trouble in convincing taxi drivers to take me to all three places on a day trip? This is one trip I'd really like to take, so any feedback would be marvellous, thanks.

offisapup · Sep 19th, 2009, 14:14

I'd gone to the MP tourism office in Bhopal yesterday and they seem to be promoting these places in a big way. If they are to be believed, all these places are easily accessible from Gwalior or Morena by local buses. The man in charge, one Mr. Mahesh Sharma even gave me the number of the curator of a museum in Gwalior who moonlights as a travel advisor and assured me that he will be able to help me out with anything I need. Nice people these MP tourism guys.

I'm going to take this trip in a couple of weeks when I head to Gwalior. If I come back alive, I'll answer your questions

On an aside, I'd gone to the museum in Indore when I was there and the sculptures there, most of them unearthed from this place called Hinglajgarh in Mandsaur were some of the most beautiful and extraordinarily detailed ones that I have seen. You got any dope on that place?

I asked for a catalogue from those guys and they actually had one but apparently the man in charge of the museum was out on a vacation and they asked me to come back after 4 days. Ridiculous if you ask me.

alouise · Sep 19th, 2009, 17:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by offisapup

I'd gone to the MP tourism office in Bhopal yesterday and they seem to be promoting these places in a big way. If they are to be believed, all these places are easily accessible from Gwalior or Morena by local buses. The man in charge, one Mr. Mahesh Sharma even gave me the number of the curator of a museum in Gwalior who moonlights as a travel advisor and assured me that he will be able to help me out with anything I need. Nice people these MP tourism guys.

I'm going to take this trip in a couple of weeks when I head to Gwalior. If I come back alive, I'll answer your questions

On an aside, I'd gone to the museum in Indore when I was there and the sculptures there, most of them unearthed from this place called Hinglajgarh in Mandsaur were some of the most beautiful and extraordinarily detailed ones that I have seen. You got any dope on that place?

I asked for a catalogue from those guys and they actually had one but apparently the man in charge of the museum was out on a vacation and they asked me to come back after 4 days. Ridiculous if you ask me.

Offisapup, have a great trip. I look forward to reading all about it. As to Higlajgarh, the name originates from the devi of an ancient temple (4thc)there, upon which a fort was later built. If the sculptures your refer to from Mandsaur are those in the Bhopal museum, yes they are truly exquisite. Dating to the 4-5th centuries, they display the northwestern influence of Ghandara /Taxila both in anatomical modelling and decorative details (hair curls, drapery folds, jewellery) to a greater extent than their counterparts from the Mathura school of late Kushana and early Gupta sculptures. If they are the same ones I'm thinking of, they appear more "Greek", possibly the legacy of Saka migrations (eg. from Taxila)into the Malwa following the Kushana and then Huna invasions.

alouise · Sep 19th, 2009, 17:07

Sorry, I misread part of the post and thought you'd gone to the Bhopal museum. But seeing the ones in Bhopal are from the same area, perhaps you observed similar sculptures at Indore? I've not yet visited Indore museum but now I think I will! Thanks for the tip!

offisapup · Sep 24th, 2009, 17:47

Fascinating info that. Thanks!

I had taken some pictures at the museum. So I could put them up if you want. Whenever I'm able to offload them off my cam i.e.

alouise · Sep 25th, 2009, 16:33

Offisapup I look forward to seeing those photos. As for mine from Bhopal museum, I'm kind of embarrassed to upload them because they're pretty dreadful owing to the reflections from the glass display cabinets. The curator was prepared to turn off the lights for me but not open the cabinets. But as it was just simply too dark to pick out details when the lights were turned off ( it was quite dark in that part of the museum) I had them turned on again. That was good enough for me, as a memory jog for the details I was after, however the overall effect looks rather amateurish I'm afraid.

offisapup · Sep 25th, 2009, 21:14

That's alright! I don't think museums are meant for great photography. Now that I have said that, I can use it as an excuse for the amateurishness of my photos

Anyway, no such reflection problems at Indore. The sculptures were out in the open. Will post the pics soon, as soon as I find a place to transfer stuff from my memory card.

ashwinnaagar · Nov 15th, 2009, 18:39

One of my friends has been to these places...the photographs were great. I think it's worth keeping a day aside if you are in that region.

delhiwala · Nov 16th, 2009, 22:16

Has anybody visited these places, recently ?

Any information to share ?

I am planning to visit them this month end......

Aug 30th, 2009, 00:23	#1
alouise Maha Guru Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: sydney Posts: 822	Bateshwar, Mitawali and Padawali Hi everyone, Starting a new thread as searches with various spellings are not turning up anything on these three temple sites 30-45 km NE from Gwalior in the Morena district of Madhya Pradesh. Understandable. The Morena district, Chambal Valley, was legendary for dacoits. It was really bad in the early 1980s, when Phoolan Devi was ruling "Queen of the Dacoits". But times have changed, as they do, and these days retired or should one say "rehabilitated" Chambal dacoits now work for ASI guarding Khajuraho temple sites from vandalism! Ah the irony ...... Anyway, as train tracks bypass this area of hills and ravines, I was thinking of hiring a taxi for a day trip from Gwalior. There are many standing temples at Bateshwar and Padawati, with intricate carvings, dating from 8 - 13 th centuries. Apparently they're important historical sites, although little visited. And I read where the circular mountaintop shrine to Shiva at Mitawali even inspired the design of the Indian parliament! But then I guess if you're working in Morena tourism you'd probably say anything to sell the local tourist attractions. Nonetheless, there may be some truth to how great this area is. Sihunya temple is also in the Morena district and I've seen the amazing sculptures from there in the small museum near Man Singh Palace at Gwalior Fort. The Sihuniya sculptures exhibit finer workmanship than those at Khajuraho, and the museum entry cost is such a bargain by comparison at Rs 2 - but going to Khajuraho to see the temple architecture as well as the tour groups of hand-holding Indian youths ogling the erotic sculptures is still worthwhile. So what I would like to know is if anyone has recently visited the temples of Bateshwar, Mitawali and Padawal? If you have, what are the road conditions like? Are they doable in a Tata Indica? That seems to be the taxi vehicle most often available. Another thing, are there still dacoits in the area .... ie ones who haven't yet been "rehabilitated" as modern-day Dvarapalis? In short, would I have much trouble in convincing taxi drivers to take me to all three places on a day trip? This is one trip I'd really like to take, so any feedback would be marvellous, thanks.

Nov 16th, 2009, 22:16	#9
delhiwala IM what IM Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Indeyah ! Posts: 4,817	Has anybody visited these places, recently ? Any information to share ? I am planning to visit them this month end...... __________________ Travel only with thy equals or thy betters; if there are none, travel alone. - The Dhammapada

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Sep 19th, 2009, 14:14	#2
offisapup Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Mumbai Posts: 48	I'd gone to the MP tourism office in Bhopal yesterday and they seem to be promoting these places in a big way. If they are to be believed, all these places are easily accessible from Gwalior or Morena by local buses. The man in charge, one Mr. Mahesh Sharma even gave me the number of the curator of a museum in Gwalior who moonlights as a travel advisor and assured me that he will be able to help me out with anything I need. Nice people these MP tourism guys. I'm going to take this trip in a couple of weeks when I head to Gwalior. If I come back alive, I'll answer your questions On an aside, I'd gone to the museum in Indore when I was there and the sculptures there, most of them unearthed from this place called Hinglajgarh in Mandsaur were some of the most beautiful and extraordinarily detailed ones that I have seen. You got any dope on that place? I asked for a catalogue from those guys and they actually had one but apparently the man in charge of the museum was out on a vacation and they asked me to come back after 4 days. Ridiculous if you ask me.

Sep 19th, 2009, 17:07	#4
alouise Maha Guru Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: sydney Posts: 822	Sorry, I misread part of the post and thought you'd gone to the Bhopal museum. But seeing the ones in Bhopal are from the same area, perhaps you observed similar sculptures at Indore? I've not yet visited Indore museum but now I think I will! Thanks for the tip!

Sep 24th, 2009, 17:47	#5
offisapup Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Mumbai Posts: 48	Fascinating info that. Thanks! I had taken some pictures at the museum. So I could put them up if you want. Whenever I'm able to offload them off my cam i.e.

Sep 25th, 2009, 16:33	#6
alouise Maha Guru Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: sydney Posts: 822	Offisapup I look forward to seeing those photos. As for mine from Bhopal museum, I'm kind of embarrassed to upload them because they're pretty dreadful owing to the reflections from the glass display cabinets. The curator was prepared to turn off the lights for me but not open the cabinets. But as it was just simply too dark to pick out details when the lights were turned off ( it was quite dark in that part of the museum) I had them turned on again. That was good enough for me, as a memory jog for the details I was after, however the overall effect looks rather amateurish I'm afraid.

Sep 25th, 2009, 21:14	#7
offisapup Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Mumbai Posts: 48	That's alright! I don't think museums are meant for great photography. Now that I have said that, I can use it as an excuse for the amateurishness of my photos Anyway, no such reflection problems at Indore. The sculptures were out in the open. Will post the pics soon, as soon as I find a place to transfer stuff from my memory card.

Nov 15th, 2009, 18:39	#8
ashwinnaagar Maha Guru Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: pune Posts: 601	One of my friends has been to these places...the photographs were great. I think it's worth keeping a day aside if you are in that region.