Madhya Pradesh: Is two weeks enough?

proxyindian

We're thinking of concentrating our next trip to Madhya Pradesh. Coming from the States, we'll land in Mumbai and spend a few days there. Then on with The Theme of the Trip!

Fly into Indore - 2 nights there
Drive to Ujjain and around to Mandu - 2 nights in Mandu
Drive to Bhopal/Bhojpur/Sanchi - 3 nights in this area
And Bandelkhand to Gwalior - 2 nights in Gwalior
Khajuraho/Ajaigarh - 2 nights
Then down to Jabalpur for a bit of nature. We saw this show on the AZN channel that featured the Marble Canyon on the Narmada and now we want to go there. - 2 nights

Kingfisher has flights back to Mumbai from Jabalpur.

So we've packed all this into 13 days in Madhya Pradesh.

Is this realistic? Are we planning on too many nights in some places? Or are we rushing, wanting to see too many thing? Or are we totally missing some treasure, like a boutique hotel in a village?

Thanks,
Proxy

JuliaF

Hi Proxy. MP is my favourite part of India, but I've not been to a lot of the places you mention, such as Gwalior and Khajuraho. However I'll just make a few points-

Indore doesn't have much to commend it as far as I can see, I don't think you need to spend 2 days there.

Mandu is lovely, and another gem in this area is Maheshwar, a small town on the beautiful Narmada with temples, ghats etc, very pleasant relaxed atmosphere. There's an MP tourism hotel (which Jorge has done a write-up on in the hotels section here) and also a new hotel with rooms in the actual fort called Labboo's. It's also a restaurant. I haven't seen inside the rooms as it was full when I was last in Maheshwar, but the courtyard where the cafe is was very nice, tastefully done.

The marble rocks near Jabalpur are great, the best time to go is in the late afternoon / evening.

I was going to also recommend Pachmarhi if you like nature, forest, waterfalls etc but you only have a short time, and it's easy to forget how vast the distances are to travel, especially in a big empty state like MP.

Good luck, Julia

proxyindian

Great idea. I'll cut down on Indore.... one night only. The guidebook descriptions of it did seem a bit industrial... And I do love waterfalls and forests, so a stop in Pachmarhi will go on the list. I'm going to do a little bit more of nature, I think. Thanks.

i_travel_alone

Here are few alternatives.

Day 1: Arrival in Indore (Half a day Indore site seen. Stay in Indore) - 1 Night in Indore
Day 2: Early morning depart to Mandu (Full day Mandu site seen. Stay in Mandu) - 2 Nights in Mandu
Day 3: Full day Mandu site seen. Stay in Mandu.
Day 4: From Mandu go to Maheshwar and Omkarshwar. Drive to ujjain. Stay in ujjain - 1 Night in Ujjain
Day 5: Visit Ujjain all day. Drive to Bhopal and stay in Bhopal overnight. - 2 Nights in Bhopal
Day 6: Visit Islam Nagar, Sanchi and Udaygiri caves. Stay in Bhopal overnight.
Day 7: Half day site seen in Bhopal. Take a train to Gwalior. Stay in Gwalior overnight. 2 Nights in Gwalior
Day 8: Visit Gwalior. Stay in Gwalior overnight.
Day 9: Gwalior to Khajuraho. Visit Datia or Sonagiri and Orchha on the way. (Stay in Orchha) - 1 Night in Orchha
Day 10: Visit Khajuraho temples. 1 Night in Khajuraho
Day 11: Visit Ajaygarh fort. Drive to Jabalpur (This is a long one. You might consider stopping at Bandhavgarh. Either overnignt at Bandhavgarh or Jabalpur) - 1 Night in Bandhavgarh or Jabalpur

If stopping in Bandhavgarh
Day 12: Visit Bandhavgarh and drive to Jabalpur - 2 Nights
Day 13: Visit Jabalpur
Day 14: Jabalpur - Mumbai (Fly)

If NOT stopping in Bandhavgarh
Day 12: Visit Jabalpur, Drive to Madhai, Overnight in Madhai (This place is full of nature on the foothills of Satpura mountain) - 1 Night
Day 13: Jungle Sarari in Madhai, Visit Bhimbetka (World heritage site - Rock paintings) and Bhojpur. Overnight in Bhopal - 1 Night
Day 14: Bhopal - Mumbai (Fly)

patrickgill

I doubt you could comfortably do omkareshwar and maheshwar both in the same day -- they're a good three hours apart. But both are incredible, and you should consider spending a night or two in each. Maybe one less night in Mandu? And one less in Gwalior? You can Gwalior's palace and the fort in a long day if you're feeling whizzy.
The Orion's belt of Mandu-Maheshwar-Omkareshwar is one of my favourite parts of India.

manali4now

I say avoid Bhopal and Indore as much as possible. Nothing special.

Mandu is a gem.....Give an extra night to Mandu.

It is one of my favorite places in India.

Pachmari is nice, like being in an Indian Maybury, but Mandu is special.

manali4now

What Julia said is spot on.

Bhopal and Indore are not nice. But, Mandu, Mahareshwar and Omkarehswar (spelling incorrect) are wonderful places. So if possible, use Bhopal and Indore as transit places only.

Pachmarchi is 8 hours by bus from Bhopal...But because of its remoteness, it is untouched by the tourist hordes. The last discovered Hill Station in India. It is lovely. The town is charming and small.

Mandu is also removed and lovely ruins and is very charming. Some nice walks there. Be careful of tigers and leapords!!! They do live in the region and I have seen villagers looking for there missing goats on occasion saying "leapord took it."

Jorge Reverter

Proxy,

Madhya Pradesh is a great election. Like many other Imikers here you have few suggestions:

Indore has no interest compared to other sites in MP, if I was there I should take the bus or car to Mandu straight away from the airport. From Mandu I advice to have a look at Omkareshwar and Maheshwar.

If you visit Khajuraho and Ajigarh, why you don't go to Chitrakoot?, like Mandu and many other places in MP, Chitrakoot is also a gem.

Orchha is a gem too, from Gwalior you have plenty of trains to Jhansi and from there a nice autorickshaw drive to Orchha.

Good luck in the election and all the best

Jorge

dcamrass1

Funny how opinions differ. We spent a couple of weeks a few monthes ago in Madyah Pradesh Had 3 days in Bhopal and realy enjoyed it. Also took it easy and maybe saw less places but think you can remember more come five years time
Have a good time

rachelinindia

I really liked Bhopal too, but Gwalior I would miss (the fort is impressive but thats about it) and go to Orchha instead.

JuliaF

I like Bhopal too!! It was Indore that I said wasn't worth it.

About getting to Pachmarhi, I don't think it's 8 hours by bus from Bhopal, more like 5 to 6. MP Tourism used to run a bus (and maybe they still do) direct from their hotel in Bhopal to Pachmarhi, a very useful service.
Alternatively - train. Pipariya is the nearest station to Pachmarhi (plenty of jeeps and buses going up to Pachmarhi from there, and an MP Tourism hotel if you are stuck), and the nearest big station is Itarsi.

And I might just mention another town worth going to if you're in the area ... Hoshangabad. It's on the Narmada, with ghats and temples etc, a larger town than Maheshwar and the river isn't quite so beautiful there, but its a really pleasant relaxed town, and the area just behind the river is great for just walking around in. Unspoilt and undeveloped, a real innocent charm, and surprisingly hardly anyone seems to go there!

timbotron

I'd second most of the advice here and say don't skimp on time spent in Mandu or Orchha, my favourite places in India thus far visited (out of dozens).

Cheers,
Tim