Getting to Khajuraho

Frances Allen · Jan 27th, 2005, 11:27

Hi. I'm half way through my India trip and have only just discovered this site - could have done with seeing it earlier. Great stuff fellow travellers.

Forgive me if I have missed the answer elsewhere, but what is the most comfortable way to get from Orcha to Khajuraho? I have read here and elsewhere that the roads are hellish.

I can cope with buses, but not for too long (61 years and two false hips - I must be mad). I am prepared to hire a car if necessary for this leg of the journey.

Thanks for all advice

Frances

jarman_ah · Jan 27th, 2005, 12:23

Hi, Frances Allan!

I haven't travelled from Orcha to Khajuraho, but (by bus)from Satna to Khajuraho, and whoever told you about the hellish roads from Orcha.... well, I'll lay you eight to five that MY roads were more hellish than HIS roads! It takes about five hours to go 100 kilometres, and there are about 476324875 people on every bus, and you can't get out to go to the toilet, even if there WAS a toilet, and, to be honest, the only way to cope with this trip is to just sit back and "go with the flow", and laugh at everything, especially yourself! But, then, that's true of everywhere you will go in India! If you CAN'T do this, you will end up writing back to us on one of those threads that start "India... never again" or "India... rent the video instead". People who love India (such as myself and most of the other people you will read on this forum) feel distressed at threads like those, but we understand them, because India does ask you to meet it on its own terms, and that really means, right from Day One, giving up your western "comfort zone". The bus to Khajuraho is, I guess, as good a way to start this as any.

Really, the words "travel to Khajuraho" and "comfortable" don't usually co-exist in the same sentence, and if comfort is really important to you, you might be wise to consider flying from Varanasi (Jet Airways has a daily flight). Of course, if you hire your own car, you won't have the particular discomforts associated with bus travel in India, but be warned: we saw potholes that could practically swallow up a small car, and we were grateful for the fact that a bus has a LONG driveshaft (and that we weren't in the back three rows!).

Lest you find all this very discouraging , let me assure you that I wouldn't have missed it for the world. And we did the bus trip BOTH ways... more than ten hours, in total! While we cursed every pothole at the time, now we relate the experience with good cheer and quite a lot of relish... a bit like one of those rides in Disneyland that leaves you pretty shaken up but which you can't wait to try again. The passing parade from the bus window en route to Khajuraho is the most fascinating in all of India. The children -- all as poor as the poorest in the country -- are, in contrast to many in the city, smiling and happy, working alongside their parents to wrest a living from the soil. The roadside stalls are a great photo opportunity: at one, where the bus stopped, a man had only one item for sale: an old wooden wheel from a bullock cart (I guess, sooner or later, a bus passenger will be cruising along, and he'll turn to his partner and say, "You know, Mabel, I could really use a wheel".... and this guy will be able to go home, happy, at last!) It's a gorgeous part of India.

And Khajuraho itself!!!! I don't mean the town.... it's nothing much, just a lot of peas-in-a-pod hotels and restaurants, all trying desperately to give the tourist what he wants. But those temples!!! Allow two days if possible, and get up VERY early to go to the western group, as the photo opportunities around 7 a.m. will just knock you sideways. I promise you... after the first wall of the first temple, you won't even remember a single pothole!

Have a great time!

steven_ber · Jan 27th, 2005, 12:44

Great post jarman_ah

I've heard the road from Orchha is better (not much) than the road from Satna.

I've also heard that you can share a jeep for the journey (or pay the total cost and have the whole jeep to yourself).

There are planes to Khajuraho from Agra ($90), Varanasi ($90), Delhi ($110)(one stop) & Mumbai ($175)(2 stops).

Frances Allen · Jan 27th, 2005, 17:49

Hey thanks jarman_ah
I laughed so much at your message that I have forwarded it to my husband. It encapsulates so much about what makes this a crazy, seductive trip, even where there are nightmarish moments.

To be honest, your reply adds to my trepidation. I think it is the loo stops (or lack of) which fills me with angst (much easier for you guys) rather than the potholes. I love the sound of the journey, though, but may well cop out and investigate the cost of a jeep from Orcha to Khajuraho (thanks for that info Steven). The plane is too expensive and anyhow you miss out on all the experience of the road.

That is where travelling alone gets so expensive. So far I have never managed to find fellow travellers going on the same road.

Great list this - I'll post the result of my journey

Frances

nomadelmundo · Jan 27th, 2005, 20:01

Frances,
We were offered 600 Rs + Gas from Orcha or Jhansi to Khaj... instead we took a long 6 hour bus full of people for 90 Rs (I think we got ripped off) each person and thus missed a night light show... then we took another bus 5 hrs from Khaj (leaves 7am,10am and 2pm) to Satna and caught an 8pm train from Satna to Varanasi (there are lesser jeeps that'll be at Khaj, but we also had an agreement for around 600Rs to take us to Satna) ... roads are not completely finished and dusty, but we had a great authentic experience traveling in the buses...
good luck

steven_ber · Jan 27th, 2005, 21:14

Frances

You could always try this product for the bus trip.

nomadelmundo · Jan 27th, 2005, 22:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by steven_ber

Frances

You could always try this product for the bus trip.

great product! my friends always said that i have a chipmunk bladder, now i can laugh at them and drink beer before long journies!

jarman_ah · Jan 28th, 2005, 04:24

Steven, I wish that our bus driver from Khaj to Satna had one of the appliances you recommended!

Our bus was running hot ALL the time, and, in true Indian "fix-it-with-wire-and-chewing-gum" fashion, he had knocked a hole in the floor beside his seat which led straight to the radiator; with a twelve-litre platic bottle beside him, he could add water every few minutes without even taking his eyes off the potholes. Trouble is, the water kept splashing.....
(I can tell you, I was so despreate for a toilet that I was looking at this improvised radiator access with some interest.... but I couldn't find "Pardon me, do you mind if I use your hole?" in my Hindi phrase book!)

Jan 27th, 2005, 11:27	#1
Frances Allen Retired, solo traveller Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: 30120 Breau et Salagosse, FRANCE Posts: 2	Getting to Khajuraho Hi. I'm half way through my India trip and have only just discovered this site - could have done with seeing it earlier. Great stuff fellow travellers. Forgive me if I have missed the answer elsewhere, but what is the most comfortable way to get from Orcha to Khajuraho? I have read here and elsewhere that the roads are hellish. I can cope with buses, but not for too long (61 years and two false hips - I must be mad). I am prepared to hire a car if necessary for this leg of the journey. Thanks for all advice Frances

Jan 27th, 2005, 12:44	#3
steven_ber Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: London, England. Posts: 8,927	Great post jarman_ah I've heard the road from Orchha is better (not much) than the road from Satna. I've also heard that you can share a jeep for the journey (or pay the total cost and have the whole jeep to yourself). There are planes to Khajuraho from Agra ($90), Varanasi ($90), Delhi ($110)(one stop) & Mumbai ($175)(2 stops). __________________ . How to get helpful replies to your transport/Itinerary questions. Train information.

Jan 27th, 2005, 20:01	#5
nomadelmundo a.k.a Sanyasin - the Wandering Aesthetic Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Ohio, USA Posts: 149	Frances, We were offered 600 Rs + Gas from Orcha or Jhansi to Khaj... instead we took a long 6 hour bus full of people for 90 Rs (I think we got ripped off) each person and thus missed a night light show... then we took another bus 5 hrs from Khaj (leaves 7am,10am and 2pm) to Satna and caught an 8pm train from Satna to Varanasi (there are lesser jeeps that'll be at Khaj, but we also had an agreement for around 600Rs to take us to Satna) ... roads are not completely finished and dusty, but we had a great authentic experience traveling in the buses... good luck __________________ Visit my forum for backpackers, trekkers & hikers where you can share stories, discuss trails, and upload unlimited amount of travel photos for FREE... @ PlanetNomads.com

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Jan 27th, 2005, 12:23	#2
jarman_ah Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 373	Hi, Frances Allan! I haven't travelled from Orcha to Khajuraho, but (by bus)from Satna to Khajuraho, and whoever told you about the hellish roads from Orcha.... well, I'll lay you eight to five that MY roads were more hellish than HIS roads! It takes about five hours to go 100 kilometres, and there are about 476324875 people on every bus, and you can't get out to go to the toilet, even if there WAS a toilet, and, to be honest, the only way to cope with this trip is to just sit back and "go with the flow", and laugh at everything, especially yourself! But, then, that's true of everywhere you will go in India! If you CAN'T do this, you will end up writing back to us on one of those threads that start "India... never again" or "India... rent the video instead". People who love India (such as myself and most of the other people you will read on this forum) feel distressed at threads like those, but we understand them, because India does ask you to meet it on its own terms, and that really means, right from Day One, giving up your western "comfort zone". The bus to Khajuraho is, I guess, as good a way to start this as any. Really, the words "travel to Khajuraho" and "comfortable" don't usually co-exist in the same sentence, and if comfort is really important to you, you might be wise to consider flying from Varanasi (Jet Airways has a daily flight). Of course, if you hire your own car, you won't have the particular discomforts associated with bus travel in India, but be warned: we saw potholes that could practically swallow up a small car, and we were grateful for the fact that a bus has a LONG driveshaft (and that we weren't in the back three rows!). Lest you find all this very discouraging , let me assure you that I wouldn't have missed it for the world. And we did the bus trip BOTH ways... more than ten hours, in total! While we cursed every pothole at the time, now we relate the experience with good cheer and quite a lot of relish... a bit like one of those rides in Disneyland that leaves you pretty shaken up but which you can't wait to try again. The passing parade from the bus window en route to Khajuraho is the most fascinating in all of India. The children -- all as poor as the poorest in the country -- are, in contrast to many in the city, smiling and happy, working alongside their parents to wrest a living from the soil. The roadside stalls are a great photo opportunity: at one, where the bus stopped, a man had only one item for sale: an old wooden wheel from a bullock cart (I guess, sooner or later, a bus passenger will be cruising along, and he'll turn to his partner and say, "You know, Mabel, I could really use a wheel".... and this guy will be able to go home, happy, at last!) It's a gorgeous part of India. And Khajuraho itself!!!! I don't mean the town.... it's nothing much, just a lot of peas-in-a-pod hotels and restaurants, all trying desperately to give the tourist what he wants. But those temples!!! Allow two days if possible, and get up VERY early to go to the western group, as the photo opportunities around 7 a.m. will just knock you sideways. I promise you... after the first wall of the first temple, you won't even remember a single pothole! Have a great time!

Jan 27th, 2005, 17:49	#4
Frances Allen Retired, solo traveller Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: 30120 Breau et Salagosse, FRANCE Posts: 2	Hey thanks jarman_ah I laughed so much at your message that I have forwarded it to my husband. It encapsulates so much about what makes this a crazy, seductive trip, even where there are nightmarish moments. To be honest, your reply adds to my trepidation. I think it is the loo stops (or lack of) which fills me with angst (much easier for you guys) rather than the potholes. I love the sound of the journey, though, but may well cop out and investigate the cost of a jeep from Orcha to Khajuraho (thanks for that info Steven). The plane is too expensive and anyhow you miss out on all the experience of the road. That is where travelling alone gets so expensive. So far I have never managed to find fellow travellers going on the same road. Great list this - I'll post the result of my journey Frances

Jan 27th, 2005, 21:14	#6
steven_ber Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: London, England. Posts: 8,927	Frances You could always try this product for the bus trip.

Jan 28th, 2005, 04:24	#8
jarman_ah Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 373	Steven, I wish that our bus driver from Khaj to Satna had one of the appliances you recommended! Our bus was running hot ALL the time, and, in true Indian "fix-it-with-wire-and-chewing-gum" fashion, he had knocked a hole in the floor beside his seat which led straight to the radiator; with a twelve-litre platic bottle beside him, he could add water every few minutes without even taking his eyes off the potholes. Trouble is, the water kept splashing..... (I can tell you, I was so despreate for a toilet that I was looking at this improvised radiator access with some interest.... but I couldn't find "Pardon me, do you mind if I use your hole?" in my Hindi phrase book!)

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