Ladakh & Zanskar - Ladakh, Leh, and Trekking

Visting Numbra Valley from Leh - forgo the travel agencies!


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Old Sep 12th, 2009, 16:47   #1
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Smile Visting Numbra Valley from Leh - forgo the travel agencies!

I just got back from Numbra Valley, where I stayed in Diskit and visited Hundra.

I took at shared taxi which only cost me 300 rupees and stayed as many days as I liked (5) instead of paying through the nose (upwards of 2000 rupees, not including accommodation) for a tour operator to take me there on a whirlwind 2 day, 1 night excursion. The valley is gorgeous and is worth spending a little more time.

It was a little confusing finding out where to get the shared taxi, so I'll try to describe it as best as I can. Just south of the old market and north of the bus station there is the beginning of the road to Numbra Valley. Over the entrance to this road is a huge blue sign listing the distances to the various points in Numbra Valley. All vehicles going to Numbra have to go through under this sign. Walk up this road, about a 1/4 mile, past all the used cold weather clothing shops, to where the road does a hairpin turn to the right. You'll know the spot because there is a slaughter house right there on the corner, which you can't miss because of the smell. If you are at this corner early in the morning, like 6:30, there are many shared taxis that come through to pick up people. I just approached a couple of taxis until one came along that had a good seat. The price seems to be a standard 300 rupees whether you are a tourist or local. The trip, on a clear road took about 4 hours.
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Old Sep 16th, 2009, 15:30   #2
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Just curious, if I'm not mistaken you have to cross Khardong-la when going to Nubra from Leh. For that, as an Indian national who's not a local, you'd need an inner line permit. As a foreigner it's a PAP, only delivered when traveling in groups of 4 with a local agent. They're flexible on the number of people in the group, but not on the guide and the permit, so how did you do this?
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Old Sep 17th, 2009, 19:31   #3
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On a different note, its Nubra Valley, not Numbra
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Old Nov 8th, 2009, 12:54   #4
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Dillichaat is correct that all non-Ladakhis need a permit to visit Nubra Valley (yes, not Numbra). For Indians it's a very simple process that you can do yourself at the DC's office.

Foreigners have to get the permit through a travel agency though you do not have to book the trip with an agency and you do not need a guide.

Every year the details of enforcement change slightly but some things remain: foreigners must have four people on their permit, they must get the permit through a travel agent, they need to submit passport & visa photocopies. It costs about Rs 100 - 200 per person to get your permit (though the imaginary people to make up the group of four are negotiable).

In 2009 the authorities were requiring to see the actual passport in addition to the photocopies, because they'd found out that many people were using random other passport photocopies to make up the four-person group.

In about 2007 or 2008 they changed from a flat one-week permit system to one where you pay per day of your permit, including compulsory donations to Red Cross and some wildlife thing.

One foreigner I know in 2009 was turned back at the check post despite her permit because the checkpost guy asked where her other three companions were, and she honestly said they weren't coming.

The travel agents' association of Ladakh is lobbying the govt to get the permits repealed and make those popular areas unrestricted.
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Old Nov 8th, 2009, 20:07   #5
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right abnout the imaginary companions. A lot of tourists may not be aware that they have applied for permits on many occasions on their trek, despite not having left the Leh valley.As a trekker who regualarly loses the other three people I trek with I have never had any trouble at the posts but you might want to let your guide/horseman do the negotiating in the checkpost. i always remain in the taxi looking stupid and if asked my compaions are an hour behind us because they have stomach problems.
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