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Trekking Lamayuru to Darcha in 18 days


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Old Jun 13th, 2009, 02:22   #1
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Trekking Lamayuru to Darcha in 18 days

We are a group of 4 people, arriving in Leh by plane from Delhi the 30th of July. I believe we will be doing the Lamayuru to Darcha trek, beginning the second of August. To catch an airplane out of India the 22nd of August, we are leaving Ladakh by air the 21st.

My questions:

1. Is it enough with 3 days of acclimatization in Leh before a trek?
2. If we start the trek, leaving Leh on the 2nd of August, and our goal is to be back in Leh on the 20th, (we will have to catch the airplane next morning) we have a maximum of 19 days for the trek. We are all men in good physical condition. Would this be enough time for the trek, or would you suggest us another route/trek? We dont want to hurry, but still - it is no problem to walk 6-7 hours a day.
3. I asked Ski High Treks organize our trek. I got a price of 35 euros a day. Should I book the trip through him, or arrange it in Leh when we arrive?
4. None of us has ever been to Ladakh before, - 2 of us has done trekking in Nepal. We want to see and experience the best of the region - with our time available is this the best trek to do? Or would you suggest a shorter trek, having more time to chill in Leh?
5. Would you suggest driving to Leh from Delhi, instead of going by air?

Thank you very much for your answers and time! It is much appreciated!

Cheers,

Tobias from Denmark
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Old Jun 13th, 2009, 05:27   #2
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1. Is it enough with 3 days of acclimatization in Leh before a trek?
Three nights is nowhere near full acclimatization to Lehīs altitude , but for the large majority you have achieved the first important shift in breathing regulation by then. A day trip up to the Khardung La the last day could help.

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2. If we start the trek, leaving Leh on the 2nd of August, and our goal is to be back in Leh on the 20th, (we will have to catch the airplane next morning) we have a maximum of 19 days for the trek. We are all men in good physical condition. Would this be enough time for the trek, or would you suggest us another route/trek? We dont want to hurry, but still - it is no problem to walk 6-7 hours a day.
Well , stuff happens ..sometimes. This seems to leave very little room for handling a common stomach infection for example.

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5. Would you suggest driving to Leh from Delhi, instead of going by air?
Marvellous idea- if you are prepared to invest some time in it.
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Old Jun 13th, 2009, 15:50   #3
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1. Contrary to the previous poster I think 3 nights is enough. Since you'll be trekking higher than Leh, you won't be fully acclimitized of course, but that comes as you go. For starting the trek it's fine. I did this trek last year and had 2 nights in Leh, prior to the trek. No problem.

2. 18 days is really the bottom limit. Maybe even not realistically feasible. Normal is 20-21 days. I did the trek in 21 days, but starting in Phanjila and ending in Palamo, so that's 1 or 2 days less than "properly" starting in Lamayuru and ending in Darcha.
I had one and half rest day in Padum, which was too much for me actually (got out of my walking rhythm a bit). One day rest (or half) would have been fine.
And 6-7 hour days walking might be too optismistic too, if you want to do the trek in 18 days. I walked around 6-7 hours a day on average (not including rests and lunch) and it took me 20 days of walking. So for you it may be closer to 8-9 hours a day I think. Of course all depends on individual conditions. I'm an average trekker, but certainly not slow.

3. I don't know about day prices, I went on a pre-booked trek with all-in price. You can book in Leh. There are plenty of trekking agents, but I don't know what's best, pre-book or book in Leh.

4. It depends what you like to see or what your expectations are. Also Nepal is very diverse. But the Lamayuru-Darcha trek is a wonderful trek through VERY roughed terrain. It's all rock and bare. Don't expect lush green valleys or anything. But I assume you have some idea what to expect in Ladakh and Zanskar. Have a look around at travel photo of other people. Here's my Flickr set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bobwitl...7606474915611/

5. Driving is better for acclimatization. You'll be passing high passes (5000+) along the way between Manali and Leh and sleep high (4300) in Sarchu, which is higher than Leh. And most importantly, the ride from Manali to Leh is breathtaking! So if you have the time I definitely recommend it. Everyone should drive Manali - Leh once in their life
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Old Jun 13th, 2009, 17:14   #4
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Its a long time since I did this and I took 21 days incl a rest @ Padum. I find that 3 nights at leh are sufficient provided you then follow the 300-500 meter ascent a day rule and make it 300 for preference. Do not go above 4000 on night 4. watch out for the new road. This can cut time to the trailhead and save you a day or so but ruins the trekkking. It is completed in sections but not all the way through, ask locally on arrival. 18 days should now be fine especially as the road in the valley either side of Padum is without much ascent/dscent and you can make up time. We could have shaved 2 days off the 21 before the road was started, whether you want to rush it is a matter for you. Sod's law dictates that at least one of you turns and ankle or gets gut rot at least once. leaving a couple of days out avoids pressing them when they would rather rest. Consider the exit via Zangla/Shade to Sarchu, that is shorter.

Enjoy
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Old Jun 13th, 2009, 17:36   #5
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1. Contrary to the previous poster I think 3 nights is enough. Since you'll be trekking higher than Leh, you won't be fully acclimitized of course:...
Donīt know where the "contrary" part came in , my point was that itīs an important minimum.
Three nights gives for most people the first important change : shifted acid balance in the blood , which allows you to breathe more . The span is two to five nights for the vast majority , with increasing numbers in your group you increase the chance that one or more havenīt come to this turning point - and hits the wall early in your trek . Other changes are slower : you wonīt have any true increase in red blood cells the first week , only more concentrated blood from peeing a lot. Staying within standard safety guide lines is the main point.

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5. Driving is better for acclimatization. You'll ... sleep high (4300) in Sarchu, which is higher than Leh.
Driving is a lot worse than flying in , if you spend your first night of effective acclimatization 750 meters higher than Leh in Sarchu(4253). 3500 meters is on the upper limit of what you can handle on a first night , and a fair number develop mild stages of altitude sickness already in Leh. From your own description you had fairly advanced neurological signs : headache , nearly slipping in to unconsciousness , floating in mid air .. Having seen this go one (short ) step further and dealt with a fellow passenger going unconscious (after the projectile vomiting part ) I seriously recommend everyone to get a first night around 3000 , i.e. Sissu, Keylong,Jispa or Darcha.

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5. Driving is better for acclimatization. You'll be passing high passes (5000+) along the way between Manali and Leh ..
Practically everyone can handle , and boost acclimatization , by going over the high passes .. with one night of effective acclimatization , well over 2000 - not Manali. Without you find a lot of people going thru the neurological symtoms you have mentioned in the earlier thread. Some see this as a kick , I just see drowsy people nodding off frequently around me. Being awake is the first part of the experience.
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Old Jun 14th, 2009, 17:51   #6
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The drowsy experience you refer to was at one of the high passes, I think it's Tanglang La at almost 5400m. We stopped there for soup, which was maybe pussing it a little since we came from low altitude. For me this was indeed quite an experience I'm glad I had. But if it really would have been a problem, we could have easily kept driving onwards to lower altitude and all would have been fine. In Sarchu I had no drowsiness or real shortness of breath, only a headache. I think this is no problem.

And once I got in Leh, I had no problems with the altitude. Last year I flew to Leh from Delhi and I felt the altitude in Leh much more (of course). The first day I was fatigued and low on energy. The next day also I took it easy. So for me driving to Leh takes care of some of the acclimatization. You climb slower instead of from 0 to 3500 in one hour when you fly.
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Old Jun 14th, 2009, 18:39   #7
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You climb slower instead of from 0 to 3500 in one hour when you fly.
From Manali you are higher than Leh within hours - and climbing. Acclimatization is not about hours , itīs about nights and weeks . This becomes very vivid when people tackle 5000+ without a night of efficient acclimatization , from your own description :


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Shortly before Sarchu there's a really high pass at 5200m or something. I nearly slipped away into unconsciousness there, at least that's what it felt like. My whole body was tingling. I felt like I was floating in mid air. We had some soup in a tea tent at 5000m. I thought if I close my eyes, I'm gone

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But if it really would have been a problem, we could have easily kept driving onwards to lower altitude and all would have been fine.
Onwards means up : from Sarchu there is no lower altitude , itīs all higher just until the steep descent to Upshi , which is fifty klicks from Leh.

Descending also hinges on the big If : no landslide , or broken vehicle blocking the road . That was what happened on my first Manali-Leh run , with the the guy next to me going unconscious. Most people do make their runs as planned , but this is not that rare : Iīve been snagged twice around 5000 .
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Old Jun 15th, 2009, 15:42   #8
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I meant onwards from Tanglang La, descending from 5300 to 4200 at Sarchu.

But there is quite a difference between 0 to 3500 in one hour (flying) and 2000 (Manali) to 3500 in 2 days while sleeping higher and going over 5000+ passes.

Indeed getting stuck at a 5000+ pass would be problematic without acclimatization, or even when being acclimzatized to say 4000m. I guess you have to count on getting down either way of the pass, either going onwards or backwards if need be.
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Old Jun 15th, 2009, 19:41   #9
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I meant onwards from Tanglang La, descending from 5300 to 4200 at Sarchu.
Descending to Sarchu means coming from the Baralacha La : 4880 meters to 4253. Lying down six hundred meters lower should be worse than the pass : lower oxygen saturation for longer time.Before Sarchu you come to the tent dhabas at Bharatpur, 4500-ish.

Next pass is the Lachulung La, descending from 5065 to the dhabas at Pang , 4500.

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But there is quite a difference between 0 to 3500 in one hour (flying) and 2000 (Manali) to 3500 in 2 days while sleeping higher and going over 5000+ passes.
Indeed : thats why the safety guidelines tells you to go no higher than 4000 meters in sleeping elevation until the third night : one night below 3000, max 500 meters per night. (Manali is one of many hyped altitude figures , I gpséd my guest house and The Mall around 1850 last year.Vashisht seems to be the only part that lives up to 2000+) Personally I would never plan a first or second night higher than Lhasa or Leh, partially from having done it between Kathmandu and Lhasa also.

As already mentioned Manali to 3500 is covered within hours, max: less than fifty klicks , somewhere beyond Marhi.

There are worse examples of fast ascents , if one chooses to believe in the implied quick pressure drop theory : in Chamonix you have the Aiguille du Midi cable car , taking people from 1035 meters to 3842 in around twenty minutes. ISMMED and other relevant bodies donīt buy in to it.
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Old Jun 19th, 2009, 13:54   #10
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Yes this is possible in 18 days, doesn't leave many rest days but at normal trekking pace (6-7 hours a day with a few longer days) you could do it. Take the bus from Zangla to Padum, and a shared jeep to the end of the road starting the Darcha half if you don't have horses.
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