Travel till Merak ( Pangong Tso)

If you have the time,I would strongly suggest travelling along the shore of the Pangong Lake till Merak. I did it in August 2011 and again in August 2012 and the drive is truly rewarding.
Remember that the Inner Line Permit is only issued till Merak and not beyond to Chushul, Tsaga La, Nyoma etc. In other words the round trip from Leh to Pangong and then on to Tso Moriri is no longer permitted. This route was open to Indian Nationals for the summer of 2010 and 2011.
On both my visits I noticed that visitors prefer to do a day trip: Leh - Pangong - Leh. They reach Lukung in time for lunch, take a few pictures at a spot by the lake made famous in an Indian movie, and then head back to the comforts of Leh. It is a long day's drive.

Time permitting drive on to Spangmik, Man and then on to Merak. This drive is normally done in the late afternoon so be ready to drive over a 'not so visible' road with snow melt water flowing over it. Exercise caution but there is no need to panic and turn back. The sun favour's photography of the opposite side of the lake so you shoot the lake and the mountains in the evening light...perfect conditions unless the sky is overcast.

Merak has a few "home stay" dwellings to spend the night. We stayed at Amchi Home Stay. Clean and comfortable rooms but only a Ladakhi Toilet ( dry pit toilet). Water is not a problem. The family provides food, eaten Ladakhi style in their warm kitchen, but it is a good idea to carry some fresh vegetables from Leh just for variety. It would be polite to offer these vegetables to the family as well so buy enough for your group and about 6
family members.

The early morning sun lights up 'your side of the lake' and some of the mountains are quite spectacular in the early morning light....do get up early for this photo- op.

You can also spend a night at Spangmik ( we did so this year 2012). Spangmik is geared to cater to travelers and the few "home stay" options are competing with "Tented Camping Resorts". These are expensive but the tents are comfortable ( but not warm) and they come with attached toilets and running water....at 15,000 feet above sea level. Food is provided and is included in the tariff. Feel free to negociate more so if the 'resort' is going empty. Spangmik has at least 10 such resorts with about 15 tents in each......300 beds on the shore of Pangong......I don't know if it is such a good idea.

Waste management needs to be seriously taken up by the Tourism Authorities who sanction such large tourism infrastructures in such a fragile environment.

If you choose to spend a couple of nights around Pangong do be sensitive and do your bit about the environment.....I saw plastic water bottles, tetrapacks and even broken glass beer bottles.....please don't add to this.

Pangong is still heavenly ....do experience it.

Outrigorsandeep

Hi Outrigorsandeep

I agree 100% with you. If you travel through Merak, ask your driver to stop and come close to Pangong by walking...
O God!!! I'm thankful to you that I got a chance to come here... it's heaven .. just heaven.. nowhere else.

There are home stays at Man and Merak, but probably with less facility. Spangmik is now much crowded with tents(in fact, I felt like a "tent village", I saw about 200 tents on August). There is only one concrete resort beside Pangong where we stayed, all facilities were great.

If I'm that lucky to visit Pangong once more, I'll surely try to stay at Merak. We went there next day morning time(around 9:30 and found nature dazzling)

I'm dying to visit Merak, and your travelogue just whets my appetite! Thanks.

Yes, and if all those accommodations provide water-flushed toilets, you can be sure they will all drain into the lake, either directly or briefly filtered through the nearby soil.

Ladakhi dry composting toilets could save Pangong Lake if all the accommodations and restaurants were required to have only them, and to maintain them properly (with plenty of dry cover material and a shovel to put it in the hole with, after use)

Don't mind I just want to contradict you. I covered the full 1/3 of Pangong Tso and forwarded to Chusul , Tsaga La , Nyoma then Loma Bridge after that I reached Hanle last year October 2011.
So many friends and IMers have covered this area.
I dont think ILP is an issue in this area even you will get ILP for Fukche , Dungti area. Just you to mention each and every places in your permit application clearly.

Yes, ILP were issued for the seasons of 2010 and 2011. This season ( 2012 ) permits were only issued till Merak.

Outrigorsandeep