Queries/Advice for Ladakh in October

neeleem

Hi All,

Have not posted many times here but am a regular reader. Over the last few days I have been reading a lot on the Ladakh forum and have found tons and tons of information for planning my trip. My sincere thanks to all those who have posted so much information here.

Now, I can visit Ladakh only around the 10th-11th of October for about 2 weeks. I am hoping I can get to most of the scnenic places in that time (guess what? including Suru and Zanskar ).

Here is a rough itinerary of what I have in mind.

Day Date Plan

0 10th Kolkata to Delhi(fly) & Delhi to Manali (Volvo)
1 11th Reach Manali, Manali to Keylong/Sarchu
2 12th Keylong/Sarchu to Leh
3 13th Leh to Kargil (possibly a stop at Lamayuru if time permits)
4 14th Kargil to Rangdum
5 15th Rangdum to Padum
6 16th Padum to Kargil
7 17th Kargil to Leh
8 18th Leh to Pangong Tso and back
9 19th Leh to Khardung La, Nubra (Deskit, Hundar, Panamik which time permits for)
10 20th Back to Leh
11 21st To Tso Moriri/Tso Kar
12 22nd Back to Leh
13 23rd Leh to Delhi (fly) & Delhi to Kolkata (fly) and then


I am sure many of you are going to say it is too tight a schedule. Unfortunately it is the best I can do. I may be able to add another day if really necessary.

Ok my queries are the following:

1> AMS: I know the general advice is to get used to Leh for 24 hours before doing much. But since I am going down to Kargil which is lower will I be ok by not resting in Leh? My experience of high altitudes include growing up in Ooty (not Himalayan heights though), Most high altitude spots in North Sikkim including Gurudongmar Lake and some mountain tops in the Alps. Never had any problems except a very slight headache in Gurudongmar Lake in December 2 years back.

2> I know there is the risk of the Manali-Leh road being shut due to snow. Most official literature says mid September but most experiences seem to indicate more like mid october. So is it advisable to stay optimistic and see how the route is doing couple of days before and if it is closed, book a flight to Leh instead.

3> If I do manage to go on the Manali Leh road, how likely is it for me to get to Manali by a bus from Delhi and manage to get a jeep or bus that is going towards Leh the same day (not the canonball jeep trip but one that does it over two days). Or do I have to wait until early next morning to get going? Timetables for both private or HPTDC luxury buses from Delhi to Manali will be very useful if anyone has it.

4> Getting to which of Suru/Zanskar, Pangong Tso, Khardungla, Nubra, Tso Moriri, Tso kar are doubtful at that time of the year due to snow?

5> Is my Kargil/Rangdum/Padum plan realistic. I would have loved to stay a day in Padum but time constraints .

6> I have not alloted any time to Leh. I intend squeezing a little time out from days when I get to Leh from somewhere and have a little spare time. Which days seem most likely candidates?

7> What are the chances of doing a Leh- Pangong Tso - Tso Moriri -Tso Kar - Leh in a 3-4 days (without returning to Leh in between? Is this possible/ worth it?

8> I will want to use share jeeps (buses where needed or even trucks in Suru/Zanskar) as much as possible as I may be alone or with my brother (so exclusive hire will be very expensive). Which parts of the trip are likely to be difficult to do this way.

9> Any other advice.

Will be very grateful for any advice from experienced IMers .

amarshah

Just thinking aloud. Why not fly to Srinagar and go that way around it will save time for sure and will aid acclimatization also as you keen on doing Zansar. Do check ground level situation in Srinagar prior though !

__________________
Cheers

Amar

Year 2008 Trips - http://amards14.googlepages.com/

neeleem

Hi Amar,

Thanks for your reply .

This was actually my first line of thought actually. I thought I would fly to Srinagar and then do Srinagar - Kargil -Suru/Zanskar- Kargil-Leh-Manali-Delhi.

I had three reasons to change the plan - Missing out the Manali -Leh route because chances of the route getting closed by the time I return (22nd/23rd October) is even higher and unrest in Srinagar. From an AMS perspective it would have really been good.

amarshah

Currently one can not say much frankly on the weather conditions. Things off late are not normal, we have yet to see the on-set of the rains in Mumbai else it more or less in full swing by now. For all you know the snow might be also late this year but one cannot say. I guess leaving out Zansar would be a good idea. You can do Lamayuru and Alchi and head back than going down further.

Also note going up to Leh from Manali during that time you might not find many people ready to share and you wuld either have to book the whole cab or else do the cannonball option. You might get a good bargain and the cab would be required at Leh to get the people down.

neeleem

I see your point about the unpredictability of the weather.

As far as not going to Zanskar is concerned, are you discouraging it because of time constraints or is it because it may be closed due to snow etc?

neeleem

some advice

amarshah

Neeleem, just because u lack time ! Weather is also a doubt but one never knows.

neeleem

If out of Nubra, Suru, Zanskar, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri, I have to leave one out to make the others comfortable which should I leave out? Ofcourse if weather rules out one of them and the others are open, I won't have a problem with time.

pip

It's all easy enough to do by jeep...plenty of dudes willing to drive you around.

I strongly suggest not omitting the Zanskar Valley or its sole entry point by road, via Suru. Why? Well, for starters few people make it out there; then, the mightly Kun Nun massif en route, the beautiful and friendly Suru, the upper valleys and their amazing scenery, all available from the window of a car.

Rangdum is an amazing place, and then you encounter the Drung Drang glacier, complete with the half mountain it carved out of the way. You can also acclimatise well on this drive, the Pensi La is 4400m, and most of the high valleys are about 3500m. Stay a night in Kargil, it is basically a big Indian army camp but has some good eat places. Get some Diamox and take 125mg twice a day for a week or so, starting in Kargil (unless you are allergic to sulphur - few are).

Zanskar is unique as well, so try to do soem short walks from Padum, to get a feel for the 'wild west' nature of the place. This is trekkers country, unlike the more homogenised places on your itinerary further east.

Pangong and Tso Moriri are similar so maybe leave out the long dusty drive to Pangong - the ChangTang around Tso Moriri gives a lot of opportunity to walk into the valleys, and meet Changspa, great views too.

You have few if any rest days - why not fly in to Leh, schedule 2-3 days for lazing around town, get the feel of the place (few tourists then also!) You could always come back as well, for another trip, since you are not far away..finally, the culture of the region is just as interesting as the nature, so short visits to places along the main routes are rewarding also. Soe of your days are very long and dificult, especially in October. I doubt it will all go like clockwork...if you cut down your schedule somewhat and plan a flexible trip it will be more enjoyable, and the edges of the season are the best times in many ways. Finally the bus trips are also quite iffy -tight roads and accidents block the road frequently, especially those giant volvo buses. best regards..

neeleem

Hi pip,

Thank you for your kind advise. I understand what you say about leaving the trip a bit flexible. On second thoughts, I think I might leave out Tso Moriri and stay a day at Pangong. Would this be more appropriate?

0 10th Kolkata to Delhi(fly)
1 11th Delhi to Leh, relax, explore the town and get permits
2 12th Leh to Kargil (possibly a stop at Lamayuru if time permits)
3 13th Kargil to Rangdum
4 14th Rangdum to Padum
5 15th Padum
6 16th Padum to Kargil
7 17th Kargil to Leh
8 18th Leh to Pangong Tso
9 19th Pangong Pso to Leh
10 20th Leh to Khardung La, Nubra (Deskit, Hundar, Panamik which time permits for)
11 21st Back to Leh
12 23rd Leh to Delhi (fly) & Delhi to Kolkata (fly)

amarshah

this seems more doable... ! if you intend got for sharing.. keep the agents posted about your trip so he can find fellow travelers. The time of your visit would be towards the fag end of the season.

neeleem

Thanks for that Amar. Can I just ask, do you think given my time, Is Tso Moriri the one to leave out? I know places are very difficult to compare.

amarshah

See both the lakes have their own charm, i was in the same dilemma when i visited Leh and choose Pangong So over Tso Moriri. Seeing your time i guess pangong so would be better option.

neeleem

Do you know if there are any options for shared taxi trips for a 3 days Pangong Tso & Tso Moriri trip from Leh? That would have been ideal.

pip

Like all of us who want to see a lot of the area, you are likely to fall victim to doing too much too soon, and in too short a timeframe.

looking at your later itinerary most time is spent getting to/from Leh - Padum. It's a longish drive through wonderful and varied country, but only you can decide if it is worth missing other attractions for.

Rupshu (Tso Moriri and Tso Kar) is also a longish drive, and really requires some time to walk into the valleys and get the feel of the place.

Some people are disappointed with Nubra, with its wide alluvial river valleys. Many people enjoy 2-3 days seeing the gompas east and west in the Indus Valley.

Why don't you use Google to find some photos of these and other areas and get some preferences for what you most want to see, then figure out how many days each place would need? I found some pretty good images of ladakh at http://www.pbase.com/geniza/root
and
http://www.project-himalaya.com/

ReachLadakh is also good for general info, as is the LP guide for India. best, philip.