More info for Leh Trip

Itshim

I and my wife plan to drive to leh and see Khardung La, Nubra, Pangong & Tso Moriri. We plan to make it by our Santro(1.1Lt passenger car) towards end of this july or early august. I have heard & read on net, of people doing it by equally simple vehicles viz maruti n matiz. I want to know what are the things to watch out for and be very careful while planning this trip. How are the places to stay and eat at Sarchu, Pang & Jispa. What to expect and what to carry. We plan to cover Pangong (to & fro from Leh) in one day, any tips or information that might be useful for us. We wish to cover Tso Moriri on our way back to Delhi. What would be an appropriate route back and what place to stay near/after Tso Moriri. How easy/safe will it be to drive during night time. Can one easily find the way in the dusty paths without a local accompanying and without getting lost. Whatever info might come handy in this case do share.

AllanM

Your main concern taking a Santro would be having high enough ride height and long enough suspension travel.

My opinion(having been an auto mechanic in a previous life)is that a Santro would have some severe issues with the more technical sections of the road. For instance, there is a rocky stream crossing about 20 cm deep. Also there are two(or more)other sections that are fairly bouldery(is that a word?). Finally there are a few unibody torture racks called ditches that made our bus' frame rails groan. All of these issues may have changed this year, or this week for that matter. I wouldn't chance driving at night. It would be thrilling enough to try it in a Santro during the day.

I do not know where petrol stops are along the road, so that may present another issue with taking a Santro up to Leh.

A very good option for an overnight is in Keylong. The altitude isn't as high as some of the camps farther along and the accomodations are light years better.

It may end up to be cheaper in the long run to either take the bus or to take one of the private Toyota Qualis' up to Leh.

__________________
Me fail English? That's unpossible!--Ralph Wiggum

mountaingirl

Hello and welcome to the Indiamike!

I have seen everything from those small imported cars to auto-rickshaw (Indian make) on this road and also at Khardungla. So, I would say a lot depends on your mental preparedness.

The advantage that Maruti cars have over other make is that even a scooter mechanic can repair a Maruti car - their network base is really good. You must have seen that advertisement on TV where the fellow says 'Kancha, yahan Maruti service station hai?' - and finds one but no hotel....this advt is shot in Ladakh. The small boys are called 'Nono' or 'nonoley' and not Kancha - this did lead to some protest in Ladakh for mixing up of identity.

Getting back to your question:
(1). Carry LOTS of spare parts (especially those that are more prone to wear and tear).

(2). Avoid driving at night. Driving in the day itself require a great amount of concentration. Remember you are going higher - and you will need to acclimatise WELL to the altitude. Whenever you feel sick, go down the valley and take a break.
BREAK your journey in to small parts and take it easy.

(3). Sleeping: this may not pose a problem in July and August. I personally prefer to carry a tent for just in case...Or, if you are prepared to sleep in the car in emergency - you can do without it.

(4). On the way to Tsomoriri - You can reach Tsomoriri via Mahe bridge and exit via Tsokar near Morey plains.
Driving here will depend a lot on your personal dirving skills as I have seen a lot of foreigner's drive here. Personally speaking, I would hire a guide - who could double as a translator and help you find accommodation/ help when required.

(5) Going to Pangong may be a waste - Tsomoriri is much better. and You get to stay close to the lake. One day trip to Pangong - may be too ambititious.

(6) START with finding a GOOD MAP!

Carrys ome dry ration, dry fruits and juice/ fluids with you and things to keep you warm especially at night (temperature difference between day and night can be more than 15 degrees).



When the going gets TOUGH, the TOUGH goes.....DRIVING! :-)

AvidTrekker

Driving to Tso Moriri involves getting an inner line permit (all Foreigners AND Indians require this) meaning carry enough pass port size photos ready. The permit is avlble at DM's off. Leh

IMHO, from Leh drive to Tso Moriri in a local jeep or take a bus. Your Santro will not make it. When the road gets washed out (there is NO asphalted road in the first place) I have noticed even 4 X 4 Army Jongas groaning thru the dirt. If your Santro does make it, perhaps due to your consummate driving skills .... then keep a fresh set of suspensions ready at Leh. The existing ones will have been shot. Driving upto Leh via Khardung La is quite OK even though the asphalt has been washed out at places. Eat garlic pills every morning at least 15 days ahead and for all the days of your trip. It may be hot in Delhi, but the pills will help you acclimatize better at Leh. At Khardung La you will be touching around 19,500 feet altitude. You might get headaches and/or loss of appetite. Do not take altitude related sickness lightly. Even regular mountaineers get it sometimes ... but its not predictable. AT HIGH ALTITUDE, Keep drinking two large sips of water EVERY half an hour and ensure that your urine is clear (colourless). Good hydration will work magic for you. If your not feelin' hungry DON"T eat. This will worsen your condition at Hi-aititude. You can take hot soups instead of solid food if half hungry. This will be dual purpose ... hydration + food.

Return .... from Tso Moriri driving back to Leh, take a left turn at Tsoka to join the Manali-Leh highway. Turn towards the Kunzum La Pass to cross over to Losar in Spiti. Come back via Kaza, (see Kibber as a diversion), Tabo, Nako, Rekong Peo, Wangtu, Jeori (stay at Bheemakali temple rooms at Sarahaan, just above Jeori on the hi-way) Shimla, Kalka .....

Stay at Tso Moriri .... just one log-hut (now maybe bigger) ... or tent or car. Night temps at Tso Moriri go to minus 3 Celcius. be prepared. Days will be quite warm, but cover your ears when driving the car (if windows are open).

If you have a friend who owns a Sumo or Qualis or Scorpio, exchange your Santro for the trip and take the Sumo. It will be much much better.

Ignore mountaingirl's Map advise at your own peril.

__________________
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ashish0608

Immaculate information Avid and it will be great! if you could suggest a good MAP also.

I have been able to find many on the internet..not sure which one I should trust the most.

I am also planning to do something similar as I have a friend in Army presently posted in Leh who has been calling me, He is suggesting and ready to arrange for me to travel by an Army vehicle from Manali-Leh. But I am wanting to take the adventure of Driving my own car.

Ashish

mountaingirl

I am SOLD to army hospitality

However when planning trips around, seek some local info as well, as the army people tend to live in their own glorious world

ashish0608

You r right Mountaingirl, I have made up my mind to be free from the Hospitality of this guy as much as possible, and to be with locals as much as possible.

My 2nd reason is company of my friend lead me to feel too low of my adventures. (he is paratrooper)

Will you have an idea how much hindi/english do the locals understand or where is it that I can pick-up some local words?

Ashish

mountaingirl

There is only ONE thing good that bollywood has done - more 'Indians' are able to understand/ speak hindi now.

I have never had any problems. If you want to hang around for a long time, get yourself a copy of 'Getting started in ladakh' by Rebecca Norman.

Itshim

Thanks a lot AllanM, mountaingirl and AvidTrekker for great pieces of information. I am feeling great beign on this forum and will surely share with you all my final plan and the experiences thereupon.


"In our quest to be the best, we become better, which is good"

AvidTrekker

Get an Army map unofficially, don't quote me. You have not read my rants on IM abt non-availability of "restricted" maps in India. Whatever maps are carried are printed abroad. The Survey of India has "banned" border area maps from being distributed. Ladakh map is officially "restricted" in India.

PM me the links to the internet maps that you have found. I am a map freak in general. I will let you know which one is better. I do not have a Ladakh map fit to be recommended. Vistet is finalizing something, .... not ready yet.

Don't be overawed by the fauji's. They are hospitable, very very warm humans. Many of them do not have real map reading skills. (real pity) They have claimed "first" ascents after climbing up the wrong mountain. (only to be corrected on the ground later after viewing photographic proof) They are warm humans, but sum'o'em are lacking in the "upper" floor. If you had the opportunity like the army guys, you would have become a paratrooper (& every thing else) too. Just be yourself .... the army can take you where ordinary mortals are forbidden !! If i had the time i wud've joined you (going to Siachen, for example!!) So what if he likes boasting to you? Which human being doesn't? Take advantage of his good parts and venture forth!!