Leh Guest Houses

Hi,
I've two weeks to go and of course want to settle some final questions.
Does anyone know rough accom. prices for Leh Guesthouses, as well as the names of some nice (& cheap) GHs?
I've read that The Oriental GH in Leh is nice. Any comments? Does anyone know how much it costs?
Is it possible (for a woman) to stay in monestaries?
As I'll be staying in Leh for almost 5 weeks I'd like to find a pleasant, quiet, friendly and of course cheaper (~ 100 Rs) place. I don't mind simplicity (I actually prefer it).
All info and advice appreciated.

Try any of many family run guesthouses in Changspa village short walking distance from Leh - they are pleasant, quiet, friendly and the price is around 100 Rs (perfect match!). If you ask the owners will also prepare food for you (fine local dishes, home made "ladakhi bread" etc.).
Some monasteries (Lamayuru, Hemis, Thiksey ...) have guesthouses where you can stay.

Safest bet is a nunnery, Rizong Gompa apparently takes guests (not personal experience - my guidebook)

Hi Dakota

In 1997 we stayed at a small guesthouse in Changspa (about 6 rooms) called the Larchang Guest House but there are many family run guesthouses in the area to choose from. The advantage over staying in Leh itself is that it is a much more peaceful area and you are among fields and flowing streams. On the other hand if you want to be close to the convenience of shops and restaurants then Leh itself is your best bet.

From the Larchang GH it was about 20-25 minutes walk to the centre of Leh after we discovered a couple of walking paths. This was much more pleasant than walking along the dusty road.

The Oriental GH is about the most distant from town, past the Larchang GH and fairly close to the Japanese Shanti Stupa ( Peace Pagoda). We visited someone who was staying there and it looked pretty good. Excellent views all around. I'm not sure about the price though and it's so popular I think it's sometimes difficult to find a room there. This isn't a problem as there are lots of GH's to choose from. I suggest you check a few out to find what you are looking for.

I think we paid about 150 R's for a double room and our friend Colin (on this forum) paid 100 R's for a single. We later changed rooms and moved into a glass room ( a room with large windows along 2 sides - a distinctive feature of Ladakhi houses) which cost 200 R's.

The family cooking was very good, especially the Ladakhi bread with apricot jam or honey for breakfast and we ate under the shade of an apricot tree in the garden. Facilities are basic but adequate.

Just a word of warning about food if you are non-veg. We ate some chicken while in Leh (not at Larchang GH) and were ill for a day or so. We later found out that the chicken comes up from Srinagar in unrefrigerated trucks - not the best thing in the heat of the Ladakhi summer!

Enjoy your stay in Ladakh!

The Oriental is owned and run by a very nice family since a long time. I stayed there the winter 90 . I revisited it last year and it had added another floor , another house, internet and a separate dining hall with marblish floor. In short, it has grown from a family guesthouse to hotel-like accommodation. This, I guess , is the "fate" of every guesthouse that becomes known - except for the "no-name" guesthouse in Changspa.

Walking around the Changspa - situated north of the bazaar & palace (Chang means north) ( & other parts of Leh) you can find every level of comfort and closeness to your hosts (the two factors being somewhat in opposition to each other) . Look for the smallest sign or just act on the invitations that will follow when you show up with a backpack if you want basic bucket-washing accomodation with a live-in feeling.
If you want some more comfort look for the guesthouses with solar heaters on the roof. Please don`t ask for or applaud water closets ; these are the reason for the rising number of intestinal infections in Leh. A well kept Ladakhi toilet (facing north, with a good supply/admixture of dry earth ) is virtually odourless and provides good manure. If they keep juniper sprigs in the loo it is a good sign.

My latest stay was in the Greenland GH ; nice family , very good food with a lot of home-grown vegetables. There is a nearby place providing bad beer and occasionally loud music but I was seldom disturbed by it - but it was a really slow season , war scare and all.

BTW , one of the signs that you are dealing with a family guesthouse as opposed to a business venture is who handles the money : traditionally men have no control over the familys economy. I`ve watched several times as other westerners went to man in the family to pay or ask about prices and were met by a blank stare and told to speak to the wife.

I remember Alan, while we were there we heard about Lady Di, sitting in your room listening to the SW radio. The bread and apricot jam was excellent and remember that German girl who was negotiating hard for an Rs80 room? I think she got it...

Thank you all very much for personal experiences and advice!!!