What is it about Calcutta?

I'm interested in hearing stories or comments from people who really have enjoyed Calcutta, or oops Kolkata. It seems to attract two kind of people, one who just don't like it, is the poverty? Or people who just love it, is it colonial charm?

So my question is to those who love Calcutta, what is it that you like?

Actually, negative views welcome as well.

The first time that I went to India I flew into Calcutta. I was travelling by myself, and when I stepped out of the taxi at Sudder Street I was horrified at what I saw. It was a mixture of the culture shock that all first time visitors to India get and of the total unknown. Now, after 5 visits it is my favourite Indian city and the last few visits I have been happily wandering around with a Leica around my neck and a Nikon hanging off my shoulder without any qualms or fear. Bengalis and Calcuttans in particular, are very welcoming, learned and cultured. The city has a maddening charm, that once you get over the initial shock will open its charms to you. Once you leave the area where tourists stay (Sudder Street) you harldy come across any touts and unlike say, Delhi, Agra or Varanasi it is extremely easy to travel around without being hassled. Calcuttans are very proud of their city and if you stop someone and ask for directions, they dont tell you where to go, they actually take you there and refuse any kind of payment. It is a very crowded city (14 million), very dirty and it has about 3 million people living on the streets. Don't let that put you off visiting - it is an amazing place.

It's alive. But the pollution at rush hour - fuggedaboudit!

http://pages.cthome.net/india2/
hope the above link will be of help.
Good Luck.

You have done such a brilliant PR job for Calcutta that we are seriously thinking of going back there after 30 years. Should be able to fit it in between Gujarat and Assam.

AlanD.
You might as well! It is a bit of a distance from Gujerat to Assam, so you could break your journey in Cal. If you don't like it you can always leave. Guwahati (in Assam) is about 14 hours by train from Cal or about 1 hours flight. If you have the time, why not fit in a side trip to Darjeeling as well. Have you had a look at Indranil's link? It should whet your appetite for Cal.
Iain.

Seriously, the best way to do Calcutta is to take it a few days at a time and jet off to some of the other sights nearby, like Darjeeling, Sikkim, Orissa. Then there's the boat tour to the Sunderbans, which is not to be missed. In all honesty, I cannot recommend rail travel in that sector.

Calcutta

Pro: Culture (music, books), closest metropolis to Darjeeling and the North-east - which is where I am going next trip.

Con: Pollution; lack of many pure veg restaurants (the half serious joke is that Bengali Brahmins eat fish because it is 'fruit of the sea'); high priced accommodation.