Kolkata vs. other major cities in India

Thoughtcrimes

Having never traveled in India, I merely have a rough idea of what Kolkata seems like vs Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai, Bangalore, etc. From what I've read, since the 1960s, Kolkata frequently got slagged in the international press and has only recently begun to turn things around. But is this accurate? For those who have visited or are from there, what are your impressions of the city vs India's other urban centers? What is distinctive or sets it apart? What do like about it?

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capt_mahajan

I lived in Kolkata for a couple of years, and have visited quite often since then.

Hard to imagine today that Kolkata was once called the Paris of the East.

Yes, it got slagged even in India earlier. Naxalites, Labour unions, electricity problems, poor maintenance, crowded and occasionally dirty then... some of those problems have long disappeared, and what has happened is that most of the cities you mention cities have grown much more rapidly (though Kolkata is restarting again now).. and become as crowded and dirty or sometimes dirtier, than Kolkata. Electricity problems dramatically improved as industry moved out too, years ago.

Now the plus points... Generally nicer people, a warmer atmosphere than many cities. This is changing slowly now, but still... and some great places to visit and roam around, even though (like Mumbai) they are hidden behind the bustle.

And the food, and the sweets. And, dare I say it, some of the most beautiful women in the country

To me, Kolkata has been akin to New orleans in the US... a little unique, and different from most other big cities within the country.

capt_mahajan

Having said all that, what will hit you as a first time traveller is the crowds, the noise, the unique chaos of big indian cities, the poverty, the dirt.... looking beyond all that takes time, which most tourists don't really have. Sad but true.

Most Indian big cities are a poor introduction to India.

Thoughtcrimes

Your detailed replies are appreciated. I thought this link was interesting regarding relative wealth differential in the major cities in India:

http://www.mapsofindia.com/top-ten-c...wns-india.html

Not sure if this directly corresponds with overall quality or life (measurements) or not.

capt_mahajan

That says "Top Ten Wealthiest, Highest Consuming and Most Aware Towns of India"

Most aware? How did they measure that?

Dont think this list is too relevant... some high ranking towns are in states which are otherwise poor. And Calcutta, for example, has always had a sizeable floating population of poor people from states like Bihar, which had/has very few opportunities within it.
Not to speak of the Bangladeshi refugees.

Thoughtcrimes

Good question! It doesn't provide the source or documentation on the study so it remains a bit mysterious. I thought BAngalore might be ranked higher also, for instance....

jyotirmoy

I think by awareness they meant brand awareness or the like. With IT industry taking roots and a changed political scenario leading to industrial growth, puchasing power of Kolkata citizens has been steadily increasing. This has prompted all big retailers flock to Kolkata. When I visited Kolkata after a real long gap I went to the City Centre in Salt Lake close to my home for a meet up & I couldn't believe I was in Kolkata.
For me it is always a good feeling to be in Kolkata, warmer people, better manners, respect for ladies & aged people, cheaper stuffs & services. And let me not get in to gastronomy...

ycl1688

thoughtcrimes,

having born in kolkata, i knew it has its drawbacks,
yet the good parts overshadow the rest.

it has its own character that is unlike the rest of the world.

talked about the warmth of people. in 2000, while on my way to
visit singapore with my in laws, that day taxi strike day.

it was evening while on a private car, we had an accident on
mission row, closed to coffee house.

somehow the bystanders managed to step in and help and even
hauled a taxi that was playing illegal and took my father in
law to a clinic. they were all stangers, yet they helped.

my salute to the people of kolkata for their warmth. i shall
never forget the rest of my life.

it reminds me of people of hawaii.

wonderwomanusa

Kolkata is one of my favorites of all the big cities of India (the other is Hyderabad). This is mostly because of the Bengali people, who are very special. Nowhere else has a post office clerk sung Tagore's songs as he did the paperwork on my parcels, just to introduce me to India's greatest poet! And nowhere else can I walk in a crowd of people without a dozen hissing "Madam!Madam?" to get my attention!

In Kolkata, I feel like I'm part of the city.

Oh, and no Bengali has ever shown an interest in "Eve teasing" me -- which is so unusual that it must be mentioned! No pats. No pinches. No whispered suggestions for sexual activity! I tell you, the Bengalis are the best!

Thoughtcrimes

"it was evening while on a private car, we had an accident on
mission row, closed to coffee house."

What a great story, thx for sharing that. From what I've heard and read this type of event is not uncommon there; one more reason why I wish to visit the city. Out of curiousity, was the coffee house mentioned the one right off of College Ave. near the University of Calcutta?

Right now I am reading "Calcutta" by Geoffrey Moorhouse (1971)WHile it's obviously outdated (I believe he wrote an updated version on it in 1994 or a different book on Calcutta too) one can at least take away a real historical overview of the city, even if much of the canvass he paints upon is fairly dark throughout. Regardless, something about this city continuesto fascinate me.

Thoughtcrimes

"Oh, and no Bengali has ever shown an interest in "Eve teasing" me -- which is so unusual that it must be mentioned! No pats. No pinches. No whispered suggestions for sexual activity! I tell you, the Bengalis are the best!"

Thx, my wife and I are happy to read this

unclelach

This year I made my first visit to Kolkata having been to the three other large Indian cities in earlier holidays.

In the few days I was in Kolkata I found people helpful and friendly and was NOT dye bombed during Holi, perhaps because I'm old. The touts and beggars around Sudder Street are insistent and some have novel pitches. I'm a reluctant donor but did part with small sums.

I found the rickshaw men unhelpful and possibly demented. A tough job for these fellows and one that is about to vanish.

Kolkata's attraction for me is that it was laid out in the 18th C and developed in the 19th-early 20th C. Little has been changed since then except for the two huge bridges. I love the decaying colonial buidings, the Victoria Memorial excluded.

Central Mumbai was not really built up until the 1860's and afterward. Old Delhi of course is centuries old but visitors spend much of their time in 20C New Delhi.

Nattusbs

Growing up in India, I am reminded of the difference between Kolkatta nd Mumbai.

It is said that in Kolkatta if you are the victim of an attempted robbery, strangers will come to your rescue. In Mumbai, with the more western outlook, the same situation will cause people to ealk away as if it is none of their business and leave you to defend yourself.

I also have a personal experience. I had to take the city bus to write an exam in Kolkatta. The bus was packed with people hanging and I knew that the following bus would not get me to the exam hall on time. As the bus came to a crawl, 2 people let out their arms, one his left one and the other his right one; each of them hanging onto the window railings with their other hands. Each of them picked me up by the armpits and one said "Achoon Dada ashoon, onekh jaga acche" - come on brother, there is plenty of room!!". That is Kolkatta.

And who can forget the Mughlai Paratha - the best place is Anadi Cabin - (jyotimoy please confirm) to die for as are the sandesh, rasagoola, malai chop, rasmalaai.

Cheers

Nattusbs

robotvoice

I also agree that kolkata is a very warm place for a big city.

I had an experience that summed it up to me on my second day in India, when a pigeon became caught in a piece of (kite?) string that was hanging from a wire, and was flying in small circles. It was on sudder st and within a couple seconds everybody around me; passersby, shopkeepers, rikshaw wallahs, whoever, just dropped what they were doing to rush to the bird's rescue. One person held the bird, another put his hand on the bird's chest in order to calm it down since it was fluttering wildly trying to get free of the string. When it was calmed down another person carefully disentangled the string from his feathers and let him free.

I cannot compare to Mumbai but that simply wouldn't happen where I'm from. On many levels: 1.people are too busy with their own concerns 2.the opinion that pigeons are dirty creatures 3.who cares? 4.Make up your own reason here...
I dunno, maybe I am being too harsh on America.

jyotirmoy

Being born & brought up in Kolkata and having lived away from Kolkata for a long time I find many of your feeling for Kolkata same as mine. The appeal of a city for a tourist/visitor is different for a resident. During late sixties and early seventies disaster struck Kolkata in the form of violent political clashes. I have written about it in my earlier post. This led to industries moving out of the state thus jobs became scarce. Unemployment was such a problem that no middle class family was spared. Hordes of professionals moved away from Kolkata to other cities or abroad. I have visited Kolkata often during these troubled times. What really fascinated me was that the people took all that hardship with a smile. The harsh reality did not rob them of their warmth. When you went to visit some one you found the servant or a young fellow of that household rush out and you knew that he has gone on the errand to buy some sweets which will be offered to you with tea. Over tea there will be ‘adda’…. Discussing every thing under the Sun. The tradition continues. When you walked through the lanes you heard some young girl practicing a song playing a harmonium. A part of the continuing early evening sound of Kolkata. The bus conductors routinely and with out fail continue to warn the driver if a lady or an aged person is alighting. It is the element of continuance that sets Kolkata apart from other metros. Time moves slowly here. Various Pujas and traditional functions are still held at households and friend & relatives throng even that means taking a day or a half day off from work. Be sure they will come. Guests turn up at marriages dressed in Dhoti & Kurta, trousers and jeans given a day off. Asking for directions to find some ones house in a locality still results in some one leading you to the desired household and your escort shouting..”Oh Biju da ekjon dakha korete esechen” (Oh brother Biju some one has come to see you) Time hasn’t moved much, leisure still exists and the heart is in its right position. And it is the heart where the warmth resides. And the presence of such people make Kolkata a special place for me.