| Kolkata (Calcutta) - Surviving the "City of Joy" General tips on Calcutta and the surrounding area. |
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#31 |
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CHANGE is the essence of LIFE;Nothing is permanent
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Remember New Cathay under the Grand portico for its 'Chicken Cutlet'! They were enormous. There was an upper floor but cannot recollect the 'Cabins'.
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#32 |
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No experience happens just by chance!
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I passed through my teens (16 upwards) off and on in Calcutta, while studying at IIT Kharagpur. I recall visiting all of those "cabins" mentioned by Jyotinmoy and also some of the haunts in Park and Free School streets. Trincas and two of its regular crooners, Pam Crain and Usha Iyer still float vividly in my memory of Cal.
I left India (and Cal) on January 13, 1971 and lived in the US since then, never visiting Calcutta , ever. Now that I am retired I am planning a trip back to Cal after a gap of 34 years. I am sure a lot must have changed. |
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#33 |
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Maha Guru Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: India
Posts: 5,223
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Yeah Supe2U a lot has changed. So you were at KGP, my Alma Mater too !!!!
What about Flury's? The home brewed wines, rum soaked resins and cakes at Nahoum's? And the " Singara "(Samosa) at Mecheda railway station on the way to KGP? Or you were a fan of the "Aloor chop"(Potato balls)sold at Panshkura station? |
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#34 | |
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No experience happens just by chance!
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Flury's cakes were by far the best I have ever tasted--better than at most bakers' here in the US. I don't recall Nahoum's, although I do remember going to a Goanese baker's shop inside the New Market every Friday with my grandfather and picked up their "mountain loaf" and vinegared mutton patties. The New Market was then a haven for all kinds of imported goodies: all kinds of cheeses from Holland, and even bricks of butter from New Zealand! LOL Those were the "good old days!" |
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#35 |
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CHANGE is the essence of LIFE;Nothing is permanent
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New Market (Hogg Market) brings back the memory of Nahoum, Wyse and M X D'Gama. Fortunately Nahoum still exists. Although it does not exist any more, Wyse baked the best bread (Milk/White, Brown and German). They also prepared mouth watering pastries such as a prawn & cheese puffs I am yet to taste any where else. Personally, I think even Flury's could not match cakes from M X D'Gama! There Madeira cakes were best and the variety they offered then was mind boggling. Of course New Market was at its best during the Christmas.
There were none to compare New Market even for groceries, vegetables, fish and meat - turkey, capon and lamb! New Market was truly the only super market of its kind in India much before its time! |
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#36 |
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Maha Guru Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: India
Posts: 5,223
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I completely agree with restlessoul, a visit to New Market was a kind of expedition in those days... the wonderful gram fed muttons and huge Bhetki fish... do you remember the music store of C.C. Saha, the smell of vinyl???
Nostalgia & Romance indeed. Supe2U you rake up old memories.. Nayar's canteen and Chedi's chai & kutta kababs... the dances at South Institute and Sweet India.... |
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#37 |
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CHANGE is the essence of LIFE;Nothing is permanent
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Of course I remember C.C.Saha and their mountains of 45, 78 & 90 rpm's! Yes, the diverse smells depending on the location inside the New Market. Actually, we lived quite close to it. The flower stalls are also unforgettable. They brought flowers from the Santhal Parganas, before floriculture developed into an industry.
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#38 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: chicago,usa
Posts: 59
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#39 |
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CHANGE is the essence of LIFE;Nothing is permanent
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Well, ycl1688, New Market was not exactly a Bengali ‘thought’! There was a similar ‘super market’ under the Great Eastern Hotel Arcade also.
It was the 78 rpm’s that produced the vinyl smell Jyotirmoy! Areas surrounding New Market evoke nostalgia also. There were Globe, Minerva (now Chaplin), Elite, Light House, New Empire, Metro and Tiger under Firpo’s. Till Hollywood was banished to make way for the ‘desi’, these theatres exhibited some of the best films. Metro was a class by itself with soft carpets that drowned your feet! The thrill of taking your girl friend and not barred from entering an ‘adult’ film! The tallest Bengali gentlemen usher was strict. Jumping the queues for the Rs.0.65 tickets to prove your muscle power and local influence! Not to omit Aminia, Nizam, Karco, Regents (with plenty of cabins!) for food that are now endangered species. Friend’s Home (was opposite Light House) for ‘Chana Bhatura, Puchkas’ and other Punjabi snacks. Talking of romance, cannot forget Coffee House on College Street and A.U.C. (American University Centre) next to the big Bata at College Street. Although we went in gangs, there were clandestine relations amongst some of us! Unfortunately, areas surrounding New Market and Metro underwent rapid change for the worse (in terms of vision and law and order) following the Bangladesh War. A debatable topic I would hate to discuss because of political implication. |
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#40 |
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Kashmiri-Punjabi Sherni
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Amreeka
Posts: 943
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excellent post, restlessoul; cool thread in general
Couldn't agree more. I miss all those Calcutta gems. I still insist on going to New Market on every visit. People think I'm nuts to go there rather than all the shiny new malls, but gimme New Market and all the wonderful places around it any day. Where but in New Market would one have a mall w/ so many entrances, or got hopelessly lost but not care, or discover new treasures each time? I feel like a fuddy duddy for missing all the wonderful eateries and landmarks of my beloved old Calcutta, just I can't help it. |
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#41 |
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Maha Guru Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: IIT-Kharagpur
Posts: 658
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restlesssoul-jyotida
Wonderful memories. I am now a Prof at IIT-KGP - unfortunately, the eating joints that you mention do not exist. The campus stuff is horrible - but I have found a nice Bengalie dabba 100 m from my house on campus that makes nice fish dishes- I got Katla in Posto jhol today. Re: Calcutta (yes, I prefer this spelling), I remember Anadi's Cabin on or close to Park Street (I recall having wonderful Mughlai Paratha back in 1977) and plan to go there the next time I am in the big city . I forgot to mention that New Cathay near the Oberoi Grand in Esplanade is my favourite place to eat - upstairs is A/C - they used to allow smoking, not anymore. Cheers Nattusbs |
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#42 |
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CHANGE is the essence of LIFE;Nothing is permanent
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Thank you ‘namaste cat’ for enjoying the post and glad to have stirred your nostalgia.
‘Nattusbs’ since you frequent New Cathay, try out their chicken & prawn ‘cutlet’, they were class by itself! Hope they still serve them. Actually ‘Anadi Cabin’ is at the intersection of S.N. Banerjee Road & Chowringhee. For good ‘Mughlai Paratha’ and ‘Sor Bhaja’ you can also try Mukherjee Sweet at Ballygunge Place. |
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#43 | |
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No experience happens just by chance!
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Wyse's Bakery!!!!!!
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#44 | |
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No experience happens just by chance!
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Nostalgia
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Yes, the New Market certainly had a charm of its own! |
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#45 |
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Maha Guru Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: India
Posts: 5,223
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The thing I really miss is the MAIDAN... Misty winter mornings and melancholy monsoon afternoons, returning home from whole night music concerts, walking thru the maidan with Bismillah sahib's shenai playing in the brain, a "bhar" of tea from the tea vendor carrying a golden bright brass pot.......
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