Restaurant Guide: Kochi (Cochin) #1

Er, apart from that slight diversion regarding eating vegan in India , I think the subject of the thread was Restaurants in Kochi. So maybe enough hijacking and let's keep the thread to that, I'm sure there are other threads on the delights and not-so of Kochi in general.

.... So any news as to when the Woodlands reopens ..

I agree with you Machadinha, sorry if my diversions distracted you. One should be able to split a thread in two (or more)'fibers' ;-)

Hm? No, not at all. Hey, if anyone knows how to steer a thread off-topic...

Your earlier contributions were to-the-point, right? I just thought I'd drop a gentle note after your last call, before it turns into the all-purpose Kochi inside-out thread.

The bookshops I was referring to, carry the name IDIOM Booksellers, NOT Saraswati (the goddess is their emblem, dark blue on beautiful little bags made of what in Dutch is called 'jute'; I just found one between my India stuff). I know this is not about eating, but had to correct myself

I'm going to Cochin in a few weeks! More restaurants! Please. :-)

Kashy's Art Café has been mentioned here (by me) before. You can have nice breakfasts and luncheons there and enjoy the art exhibitions as well.It is in Burgher street, near harbour, nets, kathakali theatre, bus station and hotels/guesthouses. Wondering if they still close before diner time....?

FRYS VILLAGE RESTAURANT

This restaurantt in Chitoor Road, Ernakulam has been mentioned in several guides. It offers authentic Keralan food as well as Chinese dishes. We have been going there regularly over the past 5 months and in my opinion the food is very good indeed. The service is quick and friendly and a full blow out meal will cost about Rs100 per person.
We were recently invited to attend their 20th anniversary by the owner and had am excellent meal accompanied by live music.
Occasionally we have seen tourists there but by and large it is the locals who go and it can get very busy which is testament to the quality.
The offer A/C and non A/C eating places - we prefer the non A/C as it is less fussy.
Now comes the sad bit!!! The owner is looking for new premises and is seeking somewhere in a more upmarket areaof Kochi as he says the prices he charges do not give him much of a margin. New upmarket restaurants are popping up all over Kochi probably as a result of the apparent increased prosperity and these new retaurants are cashing in by offering foods from all over the world. But instead of paying Rs200 for two people you will might be charged more than Rs2000 in these 'high class' establishments.
I can understand the owner who wants to make a profit but it will be a pity if when we return later in the year Frys is no longer there.
Anyone who has been there and liked it should, if in town, make an effort to visit as it may well be your last chance. If you are in
Kochi and want to taste good food at reasonable prices then try it before it disappears.

I Have to post this one. AVOID at all costs, the restaraunt right next to the Kathali Performance and "Indian Martial Arts" Performance. It looks relatively new, is "open" on the sides, but covered on the top. It will most likely have a whole bunch of foreigners sitting there, coming there before/after the Kathali show. I don't remember the name of it (darn), but it has a unique "waterfall" in the middle that feels like you are sitting next to a window during a rainstorm (true, that was neat).

Anyway, the service was awful and the food was bland. It took us 1 hour to get our food, and getting a waiter to come by and refill our water glasses, or even get us our bill!, took forever. The last straw was when the waiter came by and took my empty water glass (asked if I was done, and I had said yes), and he walks WITH THE DIRTY GLASS, wiping it with his towel and puts it on the table of a new couple that walked in! He also used the same towel to wipe down a table that had just been cleared. OHH Gross, and to think "I" was drinking from a glass that probably had the same treatment.

Oh well, adding that to just another one of my unique experiences in India.

I can also tell you about a place to avoid: the bakery counter at the ELITE HOTEL in Cochin. It's on the main drag of Princess Street. And don't be fooled by the name: Elite Hotel is not a 5 star hotel -- it's just a hole in the wall hotel with a small restaurant on the ground floor.

I ate a "jam cake" from their bakery counter late at night (walking back from kathakalli performance and had taste for something sweet.) At 3 AM I woke up with extreme nausea and projectile vomiting. diarrehea followed a few hours later. as soon as I puked I realized what an idiot I was for eating that "jam cake" because it probably sat out in the heat all day.

to make a long story short, I left India barely able to stand I was so sick. my dr. here said because of the severity of my symptoms and the type of symptoms, it was salmonella food poisoning, and what I ate is a classic carrier of salmonella.

so if their pastries can carry salmonella, be forewarned about the rest of their food.

Ah Yogagal so that's how you lost weight - the easy way! I had to refrain from eating chilli cashews and Kurkure snacks - no easy feat I assure you.
Canopy Cafe in MG Road sells delicious cakes especially their chocolate gateau. All fresh and refrigerated.

getting a wonderful keralan fish dish with lime saffron rice in a place on fort cochin that was french owned about 2-3 years back but i forget the name( was in a guide book)

-i love food and have never forgotten the complex play of tastes in that dish, might be worth checking out and maybe someone here can confirm if it's still there.

Saw those cakes a couple of days ago. They did look tasty, but we restrained ourselves, and instead opted for some dry cake.

However, we did have a couple of curries (strangely, no bread available, only white rice). Fairly bland affair. As we left, the staff decided that it was time for some cleaning. The floors were swept (the word swept here used in the loosest possible sense of its meaning), and the tables were swept. With the same brush.

Recommended in Rough Guide, but it is safe to say RG made an error here.

pquekal - yes, kashi still closes at about 7 at night (pity, would be a great wine bar)

quell - the name of the restaurant with the reuseable glasses is Cochin Fort. Yes, avoid - for lots of reasons

Clive - yet to try Frys - thanks for reminder

Saraswati - not sure about the french owned place - there is a fairly ordinary but expensive Italian place. more info?

Yogagal - Elite? ok - if no one has ever said this on this site before - DON'T GO TO ELITE - for food or accomm.. It gained it's reputation under the father and has gone to pot under the son. It was though (in my early weeks here) the only place where I have asked if something was fresh and they have said "oh no!" and meant it.

other restaurants -
Restaurant in the Abad Hotel in Chullikal is very good and reliable. It is a ten minute (25 roop) trip from fort cochin

new restaurant opposite Kashi called Oy's - hopeless - one staff member per customer and still completely disorganised. My wife and I got a dose of food poisoning from there and the owner abused us for telling him quietly to be careful. So now we are telling everyone (as he is not taking it seriously).

divine winebar - upstairs at the Malabar House - bring lots of money! 200 roops for a kingfisher and 140 roops for a small mixed juice. But a very nice cheese platter for those who miss cheese (may not be the best cheese if you have just gotten off the boat) - 340 roops

Prabhan Bakery -great new bakery that sells real coffee - on the road to the ernakalum boat jetty (on the right) cakes 25 roops and coffee 35 roops. Run by Casino Hotel people.

Dal Roti - in a little side street near Malabar House - ask anyone and they will direct you. Always full - best North Indian food in the south of india (and possibly the North as well) BRILLIANT and not be missed. Addictive. Try the Chicken or Paneer Kati Rolls.

Sri Krisna Veg Hotel, Palace Road - fine local place which is dead cheap and always yummy. This is where to have your authentic local experience (if you were planning one).

Charriot - rubbish (yes, I said it before)

New Tourist Bar at XL - if you know this place as it was, you won't recognise it. Nice ground floor bright and big open windows 80 roops beer. DON'T EAT HERE

Seagul Bar (and next door Restaurant) on road to jetty - I have mixed feelings about this place - the food is OK and it is a nice place to have a beer on the water - indian food is better than the chinese.

Fort Queen Hotel - v. good most of the time

sorry and

Sona Hotel, MG Road, Ernakalum - best juice bar in the world. The banana milkshake is immaculate. The food here is also very good. Always busy.