Restaurant Guide: Kochi (Cochin) #1

Dr. Gajaprishthakara · Apr 8th, 2007, 22:50

This is the first in a series that will get under the sink and into the oven of some of the finest - and worst - restaurants in Kochi.

The experiences will all be recent but are informed by the experiences of restaurants here over a period of four years.

RESTAURANT 1: FORT HOUSE RESTAURANT
I have never seen this one written up in any guides (although I would not be surprised to find it here on IM). It is one of those places that you go to only if taken by someone in the know. The main reason for this is that you can only get to it by wandering through a fairly unimpressive and constantly under construction Hotel. You would never think 'oh this looks interesting, let's see what's down here' - unless, of course, you are a building inspector and they find traveling here far too stressful (as do electricians).

Take the road that leads from the Chinese fishing nets around to the ferry jetty to Ernakulum. You will find it on your left about 2/3 of the way to the jetty. There is a sign on the high fence and a sleeping security man. Walk right in and head as straight as is possible through the debris and you will reach the restaurant which is on a small jetty over the waters of Kochi harbour. There are only six tables on the jetty and I have seen grown men throwing hissy fits and storming out when they weren't saved the choice end tables.

The food is Keralan and Goan with a predominance of seafood. The restaurant is, quite simply, a gem. The portions can sometimes be small, particularly when they are busy, but this is the only complaint. It can be difficult to find really authentic and good quality Keralan food in Kochi outside of the 5 star restaurants so with mains at INR150 this place is a must on a tighter budget. No special tea here.

RESTAURANT 2: CHARRIOT BEACH RESTAURANT
This place is always full, partly because it serves 'special tea' and partly, I fear, because people are a bit afraid of the hut restaurants behind the Chinese fishing nets. I think that too many tourists find them a bit 'local' and risky. These people get what they deserve. While missing the excellent fresh fish at the hut restaurants, they get to have what is, in my view, the worst Indian food that money can buy. How is it possible to make Palak Paneer tasteless, thin and watery? How do they get the guts to serve Seafood Soup that contains no seafood? The poor buggers can't even manage to toss out a decent Garlic Naan. At this restaurant, you thank the Gods that the portions are so small. Because of it's location at the corner of Princess Street, the place is always busy at night. I can only imagine that, like most tourists here, they are all just staying a few days and then vacating their tables for the next group of suckers. How sad that some may think that this is Indian food. It is not food. Better that you buy some railway food and roll it on the ground prior to consuming it.

Note: this is the only restaurant in India where I have actually complained about the quality of the food.

Mrs. Gajaprishthakara agees completely with the above assessment.

The next in this series will give you vital information on the Kochi restaurant where it is advisable to carry a stick if visiting the toilet.

Enjoy and be good to each other.

steven_ber · Jun 5th, 2007, 13:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr. Gajaprishthakara

The next in this series will give you vital information on the Kochi restaurant where it is advisable to carry a stick if visiting the toilet.

Interesting, tell us more.

(Very useful thread BTW)

Prashant.M · Jun 5th, 2007, 20:21

Hey Dr.G, good write-up, keep it coming.

nadreg · Jun 5th, 2007, 20:22

Brilliant thread

hairycanary · Oct 9th, 2007, 05:37

Malabar Junction- Parade Ground Rd - probably one of the top restaurants in Fort Cochin, modern India decor and excellent service. Mains 320R, desserts 130R, softdrinks 30R, Kingfisher 650ml 175R. Dress nicely. We didn't need to book in September, but I'd recommend booking in the high season. Highly recommended.

Koshi Art Cafe - Burgher St - nice spot for a coffee and a chat, with a lovely courtyard out the back. Limited food selection an it isn't all that exciting. Omelette, toast, melon and coffee 125R Recommended.

Salt and Pepper / Brighton Art Cafe - Tower Rd - it doesn't look like much but the food is tasty and the staff really friendly. Footpath dining so good for people watching. Kingfisher 650ml served in teapots 70R. Coke 10R

Caza Maria - Jew Town Road - good food and friendly, no alcohol. Very quiet when we went so we didn't linger. Mains 120-160R Coke 20R.

Tea Pot - Peter Celia St - absolutely gorgeous decor. Fantastic tea, huge range and great cakes. Highly recommended.

kpnuts · Oct 9th, 2007, 06:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by hairycanary

Malabar Junction-

I visited a restaurant(in a hotel) in Kochi near the jetty stop, i think it was few yards right of this in a four/five star hotel, the menu was incredible, i even asked to buy the menu (it was linked to history of cochi), i am dying to know which hotel this was, any ideas Dr? or Hairycanary? the chef was trained at the Taj Hotel, and unfortunetly i was on my own and could not order more than three dishes

best chicken dish i have ever had, and they served a refreshing ginger drink with lemon soon as i sat down in a tiny glass, which i had to have many times over.

haritha · Oct 9th, 2007, 08:07

Brunton Boat yard

They have a history restaurant

SitaParityaga · Oct 9th, 2007, 10:52

sorry Haritha....I had lunch at Brunton Boat yard, and found it overpriced and not tasty at all. I was there at the peak of tourist season, and found the restaurant surprisingly empty, until I ate the food.

There are better choices in Fort Cochin in my book.

haritha · Oct 9th, 2007, 16:44

hi sitaparityaga

YES there are lot of good other places no doubt .

I was answering the question of kpnut

By the way which is your book sitaparityaga

Dr. Gajaprishthakara · Oct 30th, 2007, 19:15

Not sure if I would agree with "tasty food" for Salt and Pepper. My choice of words would be "outrageously ordinary and overpriced". You can have fine Indian dining at the restaurants at an Indian Business(wo)man's hotel called Fort Queen. About 2/3 the price of Salt and Pepper and ten times better everything.

peanutbutter · Nov 4th, 2007, 11:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr. Gajaprishthakara

RESTAURANT 2: CHARRIOT BEACH RESTAURANT

Sadly, due to a downpour and not having read this thread beforehand we ate here last night. Spot on assessment really. Portions were small and food was baaad.
Lots of tourists taking photos of the bloody deep fryer man and his giant kebab sticks.

julz · Nov 4th, 2007, 11:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by hairycanary

Koshi Art Cafe - Burgher St - nice spot for a coffee and a chat, with a lovely courtyard out the back. Limited food selection an it isn't all that exciting. Omelette, toast, melon and coffee 125R Recommended.

Yum, and I think this is the place where I had a lovely piece of chocolate cake... It was 3 years ago but I still remember it... am back in Kochi in Jan, I hope they still make cake

haritha · Nov 4th, 2007, 23:13

It is Kashi Art Cafe.

They still serve excellent chocolate cakes .

You can also try their Cold coffee, Iced Tea , and fresh lime soda

haritha · Nov 8th, 2007, 11:40

Salt and Pepper have no table space left by the time between 7 pm to 9 pm even the chariot beach restaurant is also full whether they serve tasty food or not

butterball · Nov 8th, 2007, 13:03

The thalis at the WOODLANDS Hotel on MG Rd in Ernakulam are always good..

Jun 5th, 2007, 20:21	#3
Prashant.M Maha Guru Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Bangalore Posts: 993	Hey Dr.G, good write-up, keep it coming. __________________ Happiness is just a thought away

Jun 5th, 2007, 20:22	#4
nadreg Administrator Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: NY, USA Posts: 2,132	Brilliant thread __________________ In pursuit of the Only truth: I Am!

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Apr 8th, 2007, 22:50	#1
Dr. Gajaprishthakara Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Sydney, Melbourne, Cairo, South India Posts: 366	Restaurant Guide: Kochi (Cochin) #1 This is the first in a series that will get under the sink and into the oven of some of the finest - and worst - restaurants in Kochi. The experiences will all be recent but are informed by the experiences of restaurants here over a period of four years. RESTAURANT 1: FORT HOUSE RESTAURANT I have never seen this one written up in any guides (although I would not be surprised to find it here on IM). It is one of those places that you go to only if taken by someone in the know. The main reason for this is that you can only get to it by wandering through a fairly unimpressive and constantly under construction Hotel. You would never think 'oh this looks interesting, let's see what's down here' - unless, of course, you are a building inspector and they find traveling here far too stressful (as do electricians). Take the road that leads from the Chinese fishing nets around to the ferry jetty to Ernakulum. You will find it on your left about 2/3 of the way to the jetty. There is a sign on the high fence and a sleeping security man. Walk right in and head as straight as is possible through the debris and you will reach the restaurant which is on a small jetty over the waters of Kochi harbour. There are only six tables on the jetty and I have seen grown men throwing hissy fits and storming out when they weren't saved the choice end tables. The food is Keralan and Goan with a predominance of seafood. The restaurant is, quite simply, a gem. The portions can sometimes be small, particularly when they are busy, but this is the only complaint. It can be difficult to find really authentic and good quality Keralan food in Kochi outside of the 5 star restaurants so with mains at INR150 this place is a must on a tighter budget. No special tea here. RESTAURANT 2: CHARRIOT BEACH RESTAURANT This place is always full, partly because it serves 'special tea' and partly, I fear, because people are a bit afraid of the hut restaurants behind the Chinese fishing nets. I think that too many tourists find them a bit 'local' and risky. These people get what they deserve. While missing the excellent fresh fish at the hut restaurants, they get to have what is, in my view, the worst Indian food that money can buy. How is it possible to make Palak Paneer tasteless, thin and watery? How do they get the guts to serve Seafood Soup that contains no seafood? The poor buggers can't even manage to toss out a decent Garlic Naan. At this restaurant, you thank the Gods that the portions are so small. Because of it's location at the corner of Princess Street, the place is always busy at night. I can only imagine that, like most tourists here, they are all just staying a few days and then vacating their tables for the next group of suckers. How sad that some may think that this is Indian food. It is not food. Better that you buy some railway food and roll it on the ground prior to consuming it. Note: this is the only restaurant in India where I have actually complained about the quality of the food. Mrs. Gajaprishthakara agees completely with the above assessment. The next in this series will give you vital information on the Kochi restaurant where it is advisable to carry a stick if visiting the toilet. Enjoy and be good to each other. Last edited by Dr. Gajaprishthakara : Apr 12th, 2007 at 03:02.

Oct 9th, 2007, 05:37	#5
hairycanary Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: London Posts: 11	Malabar Junction- Parade Ground Rd - probably one of the top restaurants in Fort Cochin, modern India decor and excellent service. Mains 320R, desserts 130R, softdrinks 30R, Kingfisher 650ml 175R. Dress nicely. We didn't need to book in September, but I'd recommend booking in the high season. Highly recommended. Koshi Art Cafe - Burgher St - nice spot for a coffee and a chat, with a lovely courtyard out the back. Limited food selection an it isn't all that exciting. Omelette, toast, melon and coffee 125R Recommended. Salt and Pepper / Brighton Art Cafe - Tower Rd - it doesn't look like much but the food is tasty and the staff really friendly. Footpath dining so good for people watching. Kingfisher 650ml served in teapots 70R. Coke 10R Caza Maria - Jew Town Road - good food and friendly, no alcohol. Very quiet when we went so we didn't linger. Mains 120-160R Coke 20R. Tea Pot - Peter Celia St - absolutely gorgeous decor. Fantastic tea, huge range and great cakes. Highly recommended.

Oct 9th, 2007, 08:07	#7
haritha Account Closed Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Kadalikad-Kerala-India Posts: 527	Brunton Boat yard They have a history restaurant

Oct 9th, 2007, 10:52	#8
SitaParityaga member in the forest Join Date: May 2003 Location: California Posts: 1,141	sorry Haritha....I had lunch at Brunton Boat yard, and found it overpriced and not tasty at all. I was there at the peak of tourist season, and found the restaurant surprisingly empty, until I ate the food. There are better choices in Fort Cochin in my book.

Oct 9th, 2007, 16:44	#9
haritha Account Closed Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Kadalikad-Kerala-India Posts: 527	hi sitaparityaga YES there are lot of good other places no doubt . I was answering the question of kpnut By the way which is your book sitaparityaga

Oct 30th, 2007, 19:15	#10
Dr. Gajaprishthakara Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Sydney, Melbourne, Cairo, South India Posts: 366	Not sure if I would agree with "tasty food" for Salt and Pepper. My choice of words would be "outrageously ordinary and overpriced". You can have fine Indian dining at the restaurants at an Indian Business(wo)man's hotel called Fort Queen. About 2/3 the price of Salt and Pepper and ten times better everything.

Nov 4th, 2007, 23:13	#13
haritha Account Closed Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Kadalikad-Kerala-India Posts: 527	It is Kashi Art Cafe. They still serve excellent chocolate cakes . You can also try their Cold coffee, Iced Tea , and fresh lime soda

Nov 8th, 2007, 11:40	#14
haritha Account Closed Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Kadalikad-Kerala-India Posts: 527	Salt and Pepper have no table space left by the time between 7 pm to 9 pm even the chariot beach restaurant is also full whether they serve tasty food or not

Nov 8th, 2007, 13:03	#15
butterball Mine's a Haywoods... Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: London.. sometimes.. Posts: 689	The thalis at the WOODLANDS Hotel on MG Rd in Ernakulam are always good..