Kerala & around in 2 weeks: New Traveller - where to go?

htid

Pundabee, just thinking about it, we'll actually be driving down from Thekkady to Kovalam on 21st which I understand from you takes roughly 7 hours. Is that 7 likely to become 10 or something, because of the monsoon? I'm not sure of the quality of the roads but I understand they aren't exactly proper roads?

pundabee

The roads on that route are reasonable, but if the monsoon has started travelling times will increase. The amount of rain will be unlike any rain you are likely to encounter in the UK. I have no idea by how much travelling time will increase. Have only done this route once.

Lord Average

Funny how peoples experiences differ. Out of all the places we have seen in Kerala (ie all of the main visitor areas), we have found more to do and see in Kumily than anywhere else.
Been there 3 times, and still planning to go back for another week next year.

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snonymous

Periyar is one of my favourite places, I could spend months there happily. I suppose it all depends on what one's interests are - culture, nature, etc., and certainly, some places strike a chord more than others. There is a remote place hidden away in the Nilgiris district of TN that we visit every year, each time our visit is for a longer period. I could live there !

htid

Another thing to ask now. We've found out that because of something else, we'll be staying in India one more day. In case some of you don't know, the itinerary is Cochin (3 days) - Munnar (3 days) - Thekkady (3 days) - Kovalam (3 days).

I think 3 days in each of these places is easily enough so adding an extra day on may be silly unless there's more to do that we don't know about. Since it's only 1 extra night we can't go too far so we were thinking either an extra night in 1 of the places we'll already be (if there's enough to do), a day and overnight stay in Kottayam to break up the 7 hour journey from Thekkady - Kovalam or finally a day and overnight stay in Trivandrum between Thekaddy and Kovalam.

Kottayam seems the most obvious option but reading my Rough Guides book, it doesn't sound like there's much to do there except maybe a houseboat trip, but we'll already have done that in Cochin, so what would you suggest? Trivandrum surely has enough to see, so would that be the best option?

Thanks once more.

pundabee

I would do a night in Kottayam. Kottayam town itself has nothing to offer, but you could choose to stay in a backwater homestay for the day, and then get the train to Thiruvananthapuram the next day.

The bus from Kumily to Kottayam takes between 3 and 3½ hours which isn't much slower than a taxi (buses keep very good pace downhill, and there are no short cuts; without short cuts taxis are not significantly faster than buses).

I don't like to recommend places to stay, but you could consider a night at GK's Riverview Homestay. It is in the middle of the backwaters in a location with no tourists, waterways all around, peace and quiet, good company and great food. All at a reasonable price. You can read reviews here: Tripadvisor and Responsible Travel. I have been there many times, and can, almost, guarantee that it will be an very nice experience.

Concerning Thiruvananthapuram, I wouldn't stay there overnight; it is very close to Kovalam, which means that seeing the capital really should be done as day trips out of Kovalam.

snonymous

To HTID
You may want to have a look at this paperback: Outlook Travellers Kerala & Lakshadweep Getaways. It has a lot of detailed information about each district in Kerala and could help you decide where to spend the extra day.
Do visit the Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Trivandrum which is a magnificent piece of architecture. You can engage a guide at the entrance [approx. INR 100] and quite easily spend 3-4hrs inside. The Ponmudi hill station is also close to TRV as is the Neyyar sanctuary and dam, although it will not be anything new since you will have seen Munnar and Periyar. The wooden Padmanabhapuram Palace on the way to Kanyakumari is also worth a visit. You could also spend a day or so at an Ayurvedic spa or on Ayurvedic treatments in one of your existing hotel, if interested. Have a great trip and post your trip report.

tstfs

I have been looking for this book, but on their website they say the book Outlook Travellers Kerala & Lakshadweep Getaways. is out of stock

Nick-H

Trivandrum Padmanabhaswamy Temple is impossible to get into unless you look Indian, and even then, the dress code is strict. Kerala temples are more fussy about allowing entry to 'non-Hindus', but Padmanabhaswamy is even more so. I heard this dates back to an event where the behaviour of some visitors upset the Maharani, whose family own the temple, and she imposed a clampdown. It's quite impressive to see from the outside, though!

The wooden palace is, indeed wonderful. Do Not Miss!

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Inua

I would agree with Pundabee, do Thiruvananthapuram as a day trip from Kovalam its only an hour by cab/bus.

The only thing missing from the Kerala experience on your trip so far are the backwaters. Try for homestays in Allepy or Kottayam (river side), I'm sure they will be happy to arrange a small canopied boat (as opposed to a house-boat) day/half day trip where you can get picked up right at your doorstep. Even if its raining this is worth it.

snonymous

I saw it about 10 days ago at Strand, and again a day later at Oxford - both in Mumbai. Im sure you will get it at your arrival airport in Kerala.

snonymous

I last went mid 2004 and there were several very foreign looking, distinctly non-Hindu foreign tourists who entered around the same time as we did. Perhaps they are more fussy now. Re: dress code, it is just a money making racket, as they sell lungis etc to visitors who are "unsuitably attired" in the stall next to where you deposit your footwear just near the entrance.

Incidentally there are delicious fresh hot masala vadais available from the street carts just outside the temple, along with freshly squeezed red grape juice to quench your thirst. Also freshly fried banana chips in several varieties.

A short walk away in a small lane across the road is the justly famous but nondescript Mustafa [ask any local for directions] which in 2004 served an exquisite Seafood "meels", which in my case consisted of copious quantities of fried prawns, prawns curry, thoran, avial, sambar, rasam, pachadi, buttermilk and rice, there may also have been a payasam - I dont remember. All for the princely sum of INR 65 [in 2004] and I repeated the fried prawns. People around me were enjoying the same 'Meels' in mussels and fish versions. So if you are denied entry to the temple, console yourself with some gastronomic delights instead. I would gladly return to Trivandrum if only for a seafood 'meel' at Mustafas.

Nick-H

Interesting.

htid

All very interesting. I'm not sure what to do now then! I think the best idea is stop overnight in Trivandrum, I know it's close enough to do a day trip from Kovalam, but I made a mistake, we only have 2 days in Kovalam and we don't want to spend 1 of them in Trivandrum meaning we only have 1 left at Kovalam. Of course we could spend another night in Kovalam, but we'd rather not spend another $165/night for the Leela, a homestay in Trivandrum would be cheaper. If we stayed at Kottayam overnight that would mean not seeing Trivandrum I guess, so we'll just put up with the journey.

How long is the journey from Trivandrum to Kovalam by taxi, again? About half an hour?

Inua, we'll be doing a day backwater trip from Cochin, so that's all OK

Thanks again everyone!

tstfs

I hope so, I have their book about uttranchal and that is a real good book