a cycling loop round kerala - comments please

Ixion

Hi

I'm going for a little bicycle ride around kerala and have been trying to work out my route:

for those of you with the time and inclination the route is here:
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF&msa=0&msid=101376899 405259248409.00047405d0822387a ab96

or for those who don't the route would go:

cochin - Kumarakom - Periyar - Munnar - Thattekad - cochin

I have 11 -12 days all in; I'd like a couple of half days or days to visit wildlife sanctuaries on route.

I'll be travelling solo.

Any comments, suggestions, places to stay, things to see, changes to routes, especially important bad bits of road and so on.

I was going to do it this way so I don't start with a long climb in to Munnar.

Really hope that there's some cyclists out there who have done this route or similar. But anyone who has comments about the towns along the way or other useful tips - please let me know.

all best

ixion

vandy

Hi there

Periyar and Thekady is the Same Location.



Good luck and I hope you have travel Insurance.


vandy

Ixion

oops should have said Thattekad not Thekady;

have edited OP to say this;

thanks for the response Vandy.

ixion

trooooon

Sounds like a great loop, you might want to go onto the coastal side of the Vembanad lake though . . . you could also take a boat with your cycle through the back waters, might be fun!

__________________
what if . . . maybe . . . say . . . suppose!

lathish

That sounds bold but achievable yes.not wanting to discourage you kerala is not really place to cycle for long trips
but if you have experience and travelled well it another case
you may want to double check on KMs and terrains and night stays
en route

Ixion

Hi Lathish -

When you say "not the place for long cycles," is that because of the heat or the hills or the roads or what's going to be my main problem? I guess looking at travelling near Christmas will be so busy so am looking at where to stay next. Want to visit Periyar for a day - so thinking two or three days to get from Cochin to Periyar (60kms per day), day there or two doing an over night hike, 2-3 more days up to Munnar, day off there, then two-three days back downhill to Cochin, via Thattekad.

Wish me luck!

Ixion

lathish

Well more or less 60 KM each day is ok it seems
travelling in Christmas wont make much difference as its not a much hyped holiday in Kerala as in west but yes town/cities are much crowded it get dark say like 6.30 PM so you need to find place to stay quite before that
esp when you are out of town and at times nearest ones where you can stay put, are not close by

pundabee

Have done most of these routes on motorbike, but have many years of cycling experience. I like your project even though it is slightly mad.

First, for ideas on routes you should check Kalypso's site where there are suggestions for routes.

Second, you need a very good bike and very good physical form to pull this off.

Third, I would travel between some destinations by bus (bike on roof; I will investigate whether or not a bus driver is likely to accept this). Instead I would use my energy to do local trips.

Fourth, I would travel in reverse order. The climb from Kochi to Munnar may be steep, but so are the Kumarakom-Periyar and Periyar-Munnar. Kumarakom to Mundakayam (65km) is quite flat with an upward tendency and Mundakayam to Periyar (55km) is more or less up all the way. Periyar to Munnar (110km) is mostly up.

Fifth, most of your routes are relatively busy national highways. Be prepared to go off road at any time to avoid being killed by oncoming vehicles.

Sixth, wear protective gear; especially sun protection. You will burn in no time. And drink water.

Ixion

Hi

Pundabee - thanks for the reply. The optimist in me notes that you like the project; the pessismist notes that you think it's slightly mad!

Have looked at the Kalypso site - thanks for the tip - and looked at thr routes which seem most similar. Will probably head towards Hornbill Camp/Thattekad, then on to Munnar as suggested.

I've been using Google maps for the route planning; I note your comment regarding busy national routes: is there much scope for finding less travelled roads without a guide, or going as part of a guided trip? I guess there's a load of quiet tracks which aren't signposted. If anyone knows or can suggest particular routes which would take me off the highways for a while that would be much appreciated.

I'll be taking a good bike - 26" wheels, steel frame, sturdy as anything!; am reasonably fit. I am ready to dive off into the verge to avoid traffic coming from any direction.

- Water, sunguard. Get off the road before 6pm and make sure I have somewhere to stay. Think about gaining some time by taking a bus or driver for some legs and gain myself some extra time for local trips without being fully laden.

Am a bit more anxious about the whole thing now but that's probably no bad thing.

Thanks to all respondents to date. Any further comments very welcome. Especially for side roads and quiet roads that roughly follow this route:

cochin - Thattekad - Munnar - Periyar - Kumarakom - cochin

Thanks again

Ixion

pundabee

Slightly mad is a definite positive.

The point about national highways is not that they are particularly busy, but that the driving is faster and more irresponsible. On most of the route you will find that the amount of traffic is quite manageable; only around Kottayam and Kochi is congestion and pollution at a level that makes it unpleasant (so when I wrote busy, it wasn't really precise enough).

My suggestion would be that you stick to known routes, especially on the mountains where a wrong turn can take you in a completely different direction (my experience is that people here are not very good at explaining directions or estimating distances, so finding your way back using alternative routes, should you get lost, would be difficult).

I think you will enjoy the trip. Good luck.

Ixion

I was looking at Google Earth and zooming in - it's apparent that there are a huge amount of trails and tracks that don't appear on either Google Maps or my Rough Guides map of South India (1:1.200000). They look so tempting... But as you say Pundabee I can see how a little wrong turn would send me either up a dead end or spending a whole day doing spirals around a plantation. Have identified some smaller routes though which should take me back from Periyar towards Kumarakom via Menachi and Ettumanur instead of the bigger road via Kanjirapalli.

And a big thanks for the reassuring note Pundabee - I think I might try and get a lift out of Kochi to the outskirts of the City, rather than get too frazzled on my first day..

thanks again

Ixion

pundabee

My better half also suggested to me that you stay off the bike until after Kochi. I didn't pass this information on.

I dug out my map of Kerala (you should get one on arrival from a book shop). The first part of the route from Periyar to Kumarakom is straight forward. You leave Kumily/Thekkady/Periyar and go through Vandiperiyar (5-10km of bad road, the rest very good), Peermade and Kuttikanam before hitting the lowlands in Mundakkayam. Most of the route before Mundakkayam is downhill without too much traffic and nice scenery over the valleys and mountain tops (in Pullupara, 10 km before Mundakkayam, there is a road side restaurant (or "hotel" as they are called here), Hotel Maria, that is highly recommended for simple, cheap food.

After Mundakkayam you have three options. The obvious one is to stay on the national highway to Kottayam, but, as you figured out, it is not exactly charming. Alternatively, you can choose to head north (your suggestion) or south. However, you are also likely to encounter traffic on the northern route since vehicles going from Ernakulam to Periyar tend to do a shortcut this way to avoid Kottayam. The southern route will be more quiet, and it is, apparently, scenic for the lowlands. The southern route involves crossing the bridge before Mundakkayam and turning left 50 metres later (almost a 180 degree turn) towards Erumeli. From there the destination towns should be Cheruvalli, Kangazha, Karukachal, Thottakkad....(see attached jpg).

By the way, it should't be a problem getting the bike on (top of) the bus for a small fee.

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Ixion

- thank you for your replies Pundabee; you have been very generous with your time and information and is much appreciated!

I don't want to trouble you pushing for more information so am currently staring at Google Earth and looking at where the roads and tracks run.

One of the things that is interesting and daunting is how much is on the ground and how little on the maps. I have been trying to work out the route from Thattekad on to Munnar; I can see an obvious route which follows the left bank of the river down to the highway. The more complex route would cross the Periyar and then go on to Kuttampuzha; struggling to see the route from Kuttampuzha back to the Highway - if anyone can suggest a way to do this keen to know.

I only have a map of South India at the moment, - is there a specific good detailed map of Kerala that anyone can reccomend - I'd like to try and get one in advance.

thanks again for great help

all best

Ixion

pundabee

Don't worry. Most answers to questions in the Kerala forum can be found by doing a quick search. Your's are more difficult and therefore deserve a bit of time.

According to my map, the road you mention continues all the way to (or near to) Munnar. The road could be anything from one big pothole to perfect tarmac. Only someone who has been there recently will know. You could make your decision on which way to go once you get to Thattekad. Someone there should be able to provide the info.

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lathish

Hey have some phone numbers handy,in case if you are stuck at some place and needs directions.As the senior member have said
people are not very good at judging distance and direction it good you get confirmation from couple of people and always ask direction to a group rather than a lone person you come across.The best bets are taxi stands and Tuk-Tuk/auto stands