Jodhpur to Jaisalmer by Camel?

The Wanderer

Hello IMers!

I have read numerous threads on this forum regarding camel safaris in Rajasthan (principally in Jaisalmer) and would very much like to include one in my February trip to the region. At first, my intention was to take a 2 or 3 night trip out of Jaisalmer but I recently came across an offer of a Camel Caravan from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer and was curious whether anyone had particpated in such a journey? It is far more appealing to me than the short trip as it seems a more genuine experience with an actual destination and I like the idea of crossing a large chunk of the Thar.

Has anyone traveled from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer by camel? The trip I happened across was listed on the website of a Jodhpur guest house and I will be contacting them for details but can you offer any suggestions regarding operators? Any idea as to what the fair price might be?

Thanks in advance for any information you may be able to offer. I really have enjoyed reading through the forum and I was somewhat surprised to not be able to find any previous discussion on this point.

machadinha

Heheh. Interesting proposition, I'd say go for it.

The only anecdote I have to share is I met a young American in Jaisalmer who had bought a camel (and hired the caretaker on his own camel) to take it to Pushkar fair, then sell it on there. They were planning on a month to cover that distance I think.

So I don't know how these people envisage this. It can probably be done quicker and this is a substantially shorter (but make no mistake, still quite some) distance; just beware of vastly overpaying for some deal on wheels where you get plonked down on a camel's back every now and then I guess (and something as enticing-sounding as "Camel Caravan" might well translate to just that I suppose. If this were a really attractive deal you'd think one might have heard of it here before. But then who knows, there's always a first one to discover it.)

Another thing: I've never ridden a camel, but people doing the short safaris report major saddle sores after a few hours, and that doing it for two days is just no fun. Riding them for a month or so I'm sure one gets used to it.

I would go for it, if the package sounds any good. On the other hand, I would also be very wary of not being suckered into some touristy deal for a lotta money that's not worth it.

What time frame do they offer for it? Maybe some members here can make an estimate of how long it should take confidently trotting along.

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zoltan

That's quite a distance to cover (280km).

The camels will do 20-30km per day (and need regular breaks). So based on this (as a guess-timate), you'll need around 9-12 days to complete the journey.

While it does sound exciting, you'll have to work out how much it will cost you, everything that is incorporated into the price and, what if you get too sore to ride ?

I did a 5-day safari many years ago and by the end of the 4th day, I was ready to pack it in.

But if you do it, I'd love to read the blog.

Cheers
Zoltan

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machadinha

LOL, indeed

So where is yours Sounds great btw, do write it down whenever you have a moment to spare.

Good point, I had mentioned something similar before, then deleted it as I wasn't sure: I don't know how these tours work, but for all I know people living with camels generally walk with them, the animals being used as pack animals. They are ridden (and can be very fast!), but I'm not so sure if they're generally used to be ridden all day, or day in, day out. So this will naturally determine your speed. I think a person (and not counting the heat) walks something like 5 kms. an hour on average, so you do the math. Looks like it'd be faster without the beast, LOL.

I am again not trying to talk you out of the idea, it sounds attractive rather. No doubt demanding as well, as Zoltan indicates too. I would however carefully check if it's something remotely realistic, and worth its fee, you're being offered.

zoltan

My "blog" ended up being a 2-volume tome about my journeys through India.

I tried to write up subsequent ones but I never got motivated enough to complete the write-ups (which I should do one day).

I was originally going to say much the same as you Machadinha about the speed of the camels. But I doubt that anyone could go through the desert without some form of transport.

My Indian father warned me about packs of wild dogs that roam areas of the desert (between Jodhpur & Jaisalmer) and that they are savage - if you're in their path, you may as well kiss your a*se goodbye.

As for how realistic this would be, I think that the camels would (much like horses), need to have a change-over part way through the journey.

Cheers
Zoltan

machadinha

Sounds very cool. Let's have it

You are right I think btw. Those pack animals are a necessity, not a luxury. And I do think you'd have quite some stories to tell about there. So, in your own good time please.

The Wanderer

Thanks for the quick replies machadinha and zoltan! The guest house offering the service (Durag Niwas in Jodhpur) lists two conflicting durations, one of 14 days and a second of ten, and a price of 17,000 inr. I've written the guest house and hope to know more soon but I am very intrigued to say the least. I am sure there will be some uhh.. saddle soreness to put it politely but I also suspect that more time will be spent dismounted and using my own hoofs than is typical with the shorter tours. I'll be sure and share any information I receive for the benefit of the broader community.

Also, how difficult and expensive might it be to simply hire a driver (is that the proper term re camels?) and the appropriate number of camels along with perhaps a cook/porter/guide if necessary in Jodhpur and negotiate a price one way to Jaisalmer? Machadinha mentions hearing of a traveler purchasing a camel, how costly are they and is there a resale market in Jaisalmer (I don't think Lufthunsa will let me check one)?


Sincerely,

The Wanderer

machadinha

Phew, I mentioned that option to DIY as an adventurous one, that guy I met certainly was, I wouldn't suggest jumping in this head over heels. Then again, why not, who knows (he seemed like one who had thought up the idea on the spot himself, in fact). No, I don't happen to know the going rate for a camel, sorry (Nor what ever became of the guy, for that matter.)

(In that field, I think you may have missed a point in my message too: He was taking it to sell at Pushkar fair, a major Indian annual cattle fair in Rajasthan. So I guess he stood a good chance of selling it on there; doing this on the fly might prove a lot more tricky. Read up on people trying to sell their motorcycle here.)

Those 17,000 Rs. for ten (or fourteen) days: I'd ask them carefully about what is included in that. It isn't rock-bottom, doesn't strike me as overly luxurious either. I've never done it but even with standard short-term (one night or so) safaris this seems to be the general advise: The drivers and camels will likely be hired by whatever outfit you're dealing with, there's not a lot of flexibility there, nor are you directly dealing with them. So whatever price variations you're looking at will likely be reflected in what food options you get, dedication of your guides, back-up and transport if necessary along the way, etc. I mean this may mean the difference between an enthusiastic bunch with a beer and dinner choices thrown in, or water and dal all the way with someone whose language you don't speak.

Keep in mind also Zoltan's comments on a reasonable pace; at ten days, you don't want to end up there on some poor overworked animals I'm sure. And remember two weeks on them will likely prove more taxing than you might think yes. In terms of speed and daily pace too, btw; you need to be able to savour the moment and the surroundings, as you'll have gathered by now you won't be galloping all day and generally not going anywhere fast. Have you done lengthy horse or walking treks?

As an aside, have you read Mark Shand's books? Bought and rode an elephant there, he's not without his critics, but I thought it might interest you. I don't find an immediate personal website of his, but a web search will lead you to him or his books alright.

zoltan

That's close to AU$500 for the journey. The "average" price for a reasonable journey is Rs.700 - this is based on a 1+ day outing into the desert region.

For purchasing your own camel, I went to a fair outside Jaisalmer a few years back and they were quoting me around US$1,000 for a young camel. It's not something you want to go into quickly - there's many pitfalls for the unwary. Food in the desert is probably the biggest concern - there's not a lot (aside from sand), between Jodhpur & Jaisalmer.

Another thought - if you do go for it, make sure you have a guide who has reasonable levels of English (or your own national language). It can get really boring out there with no one to speak with other than "friend - follow the road friend" - and that's looking at a sandy desert track - not a road as such.

If you do consider it, I would in all seriousness, make sure you have lots of padding for the gluteus region and something to prevent chaffing of the inner thigh.

And, (another word of warning for the unwary), if your driver offers you a massage - decline. I don't know if mine was joking or not, but blokes are definitely not my preference.

Cheers
Zoltan

machadinha

LOL, that final caution I found rather funny.

To our lady readers too, I hear one often fantasizes oneself to be alone on these rides (horse rides too). Anywhere in the world though and unless you are of proven experience you'll more likely have a driver with you on the same animal, and preferably behind you, as that's where it's best controlled, and you best kept from falling off, from.

The temptation to a little friskiness isn't hard to think of. (Or maybe they'll be walking alongside you, then take an uncanny interest in your legs.) I'm not saying don't do it, nor that it has to be an issue; just keep a little eye on what you're doing, and where your boundaries lie.

nb On prices, yes, you don't want to overpay of course. Thing is if you want to underpay it will probably be on offer, but then underpaid is what you'll get.

The Wanderer

Thanks for not outright saying I'm nuts (not that I don't already know)!

The purchasing a camel comment was a bit tongue in cheek as I can't imagine there would be any benefit to purchasing one but I would get a kick out of telling people that I owned a camel at one point.

I would certainly prefer to make the trip with other travelers but am not terribly opposed to going with hired locals alone if need be. I don't think I come across as the type of guy who would be receptive to a "massage."

As far as "lengthy horse or walking treks" are concerned, I hike quite regularly in the mountains but haven't actually been on a horse for years. I would think a blanket folded over the saddle and under armour compression gear should take care of chafing/bruising but would appreciate any pointers as it does seem to be a different movement than a horse. Thanks again for the advice and I have to admit, this thread has become quite entertaining in its own right.

zoltan

Far be it from me to say that - your idea is something that is commercially available and the distance is not outright ludicrous (but certainly far).

I genuinely hope that if you do take on the journey, that you will provide a lot of feedback - I often admire people who take on different ways of seeing of India and those who get well off the beaten track (without putting their lives or others at risk).

Cheers
Zoltan

kristinm

I lasted about 2 hours - by the time we reached out sunset stop I was red raw. I used to ride horses semi professionally and while I admit I'm a bit fatter and more unfit that I used to be I have to say I found the camel the most extraordinarily uncomfortable thing I'd ever done! THey are lovely animals though and the desert is beautiful.. really beautiful! I wonder about banditry and dogs etc, I guess your guides would be armed (everyone in India seems to be!)

Haylo

Not sure what the Indian camel saddles would be like but I did a day camel ride in Tunisia without any discomfort at all. Those saddles seemed to be cloth stuffed with something like lumpy rocks and based on a wooden frame. At that time I was horse riding (albeit badly!) at least four times a week, and I think that helped a lot.

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edwardseco

That brings up a new meaning to that saying, buns of steel.

Did some short horseback riding recently. I am apparently not as young as I used to be..