Kashmir: Trip report

oneheart

I jus came back from india last week.. went to Kashmir on 14 dec - 21 dec.. It became my favourite place in India!

On the first day of our arrival, our flight was delayed for 4 hours due to the foggy weather in Delhi and the airplane couldnt take off.. I had arranged a pickup with Ajaz from chicago houseboat earlier.. Was pretty excited to meet him as we have been chatting over msn for a couple of months before our arrival and he has become such a good friend.. He went to the airport earlier that day to fetch us and had to wait for 5-6 hours.. Despite that, we received a warm welcome from him when he picked us up with uncle john who is the driver. When we reached Chicago Group of houseboat, the room was already heated up and food was laid on the table for us.. Ajaz had gotten his workers to prepare a meal for us because he thought that we would be hungry and cold after such a long wait and indeed we were! I really marvel at the hospitality of his workers.. We were treated like queens, food and desserts were served, 5-6 layers of blankets were laid properly on our beds with water heat packs.. and the greatest of all is the Kashmiri tea after dinner! It's got cardamom, cinnamon, saffron and sometimes almonds are added to the Kashmiri tea which are brewed together, sugar is up to your own preference.. Uncle Mohammad, one of the workers of Ajaz cooked very delicious food for us, there were stewed curry chicken, stewed broccoli, potato, mutton in Kashmiri style.. The sauce is especially nice..

The second day, we went to Pahalgam. It was scary to ride on horses as they tried to trek up the 45 degree steep mountain.. Unfortunately, our horses werent in a good mood that day and both of us fell from them.. My friend had a minor concussion and a bump on her head though it wasnt too serious but it was difficult to trek the rest of the mountain after that.. Uncle Mohammad, though already in his 40s, beat us hands down when it comes to trekking. He carried our bags and always offer a hand to help us, like a warm fatherly figure. Though Pahalgam is beautiful with views of snow-capped mountains but it is not as gorgeous as Sonamarg. Dean who is the shepherd of the horses we rode on, accompanied us throughout the trek. He was a nice young chap and didnt ask us to pay him for the horse ride but we still gave him some money on our own accord.

We spent another 3 days 2 nights in Gulmarg. We told Ajaz that we were in a tight budget and he booked for us a room in Hotel Sahara. We actually got a real good deal because he had some contacts with the people in the hotel. We paid only half the price of the original price which included 3 meals per day and he said that he'll somehow cover it by recommending more customers to them. Before going to Gulmarg, he advised us to be careful because the people in Gulmarg are not as nice as the Kashmiri we meet.. I guess when a place is too commercialized, people's hearts changed.. Gulmarg is such a touristic place that wherever you go and whatever you do, everyone ask you for tips. There are many people who overcharge tourists for skiing equipments, lessons and sledge. I guess to them, this is an easier way to earn money, thinking that they can get big bucks out from you which is not true for most of us. When i told Ajaz that we took a long time to save up for this trip, he could understand as he met many backpackers from different countries. I also met a lady in delhi who saved up for 7 years in order to travel for 4 months in Asia, she is from Belgium. It doesnt mean that all Europeans are rich and deserve to pay more because of the exchange rate.

Anyway, back to Gulmarg. Hotel Sahara has excellent service, we met Varsin (spelled wrongly) who was the staff in charge of our room, he is really a very nice chap! During our 2 nights stay in the hotel, we had to wake him up in the middle of the night at 3am so that he could refill our Bokari (the heating facility which was invented by the British) with wood to keep our room warm. During winter in Gulmarg, we have to turn on the tap and let it run throughout the night because when it stops running, the water will be frozen and we cant get a single drop of water in the morning which was what happened to us. We asked Varsin for help and I dont know what he did to make the tap runs again after a 15 minutes wait. The town often experience blackout so i guess electrical heater doesnt really helps when the whole town does not have electricity. Back in Srinagar, they use wood from apple trees to fill the Bokari which doesnt produce a burning smell but in Gulmarg, they use wood from forest trees and it really polutes your lungs. There arent any apple trees in Gulmarg.

Skiing was a fun experience which requires lots of energy. We felt so cold before we went for the ski but when we started skiing, we really perspired despite the cold weather! The gondola ride up to the peak of the mountain was definitely a highlight! You can get awe-struck standing at the peak, viewing the panoramic view of the himalayas! We paid..

Rs 800 - ski coach for a day per person
Rs 400 - ski equipments for a day per person
Rs 500 - sledge for a day per person
Rs 200 - Gondola
but you have to be ready to give tips to the sledgeman and ski coach..

On our way back to Srinagar from Gulmarg, we went for sheep shopping with Uncle John (our driver) because 21 dec was their Ramadan where Muslim sacrifice sheep for religious purpose. It was interesting.. Ajaz bought 3 sheep to be sacrifice and we let them out in his backyard so that we could play with them.. haha..

Sonamarg was gorgeous. It's a must go. We rode on horses as they tarry on a seemingly flat road filled with snow.. The scenery was stunning as the road seems to have splitted the snow-capped mountains. Along the road, we could see footprints of animals on the snow. Right beside the road, there is a rushing river that glitters with crystal blue clear water. On our way to Sonamarg, we saw sign boards that state the number of kilometres to Ladakh Leh. It is the only way to Leh for those who wants to travel from Kashmir to Ladakh by road. Horse riding for about 2-3 hours cost Rs 200 per person.

The day before we left Kashmir, we did a city tour. We visited some carpet shops and the Mughal Garden. Though there is no flower in sight during winter but the ground was filled with fallen reddish leaves which gives you a feeling of autumn. We enjoyed the serenity of the park where there werent any tourist nor were there a lot of people. After the visit at the garden, we went to 3 local markets and it was the most incredible experience. The Kashmiri were so friendly and they are very curious about foreigners. They were so thrilled when we took pictures of them and showed them. In fact, the Kashmiri has such beautiful features and exotic looks which no photographers could resist. I met a family of 3, the father was with his son and daughter, all of them has charming blue eyes. I have a very good impression about the Kashmiri through my short stay in Kashmir. Most of them speaks very good english (at least those we met) and in Kashmir, most of the sign boards are written in english. They are a group of polite and relational people who are proud of their homeland despite of the unrest. I heard from Ajaz that it had affected Kashmir so badly that they did not have many tourists for the past 15 years, many of them has to go to other cities to find a job. Of course there are houseboats owners who overcharge tourists so plan your trip properly before you go.

Well.. I guess right now, many people still have the perception that Kashmir is very dangerous. I'm not too sure about that but it has been very peaceful during my 7 days stay. We saw soldiers on the street and some of them allowed as to take pictures of them when asked. Ajaz told us that it has been very peaceful for the past few years and India might be withdrawing the troops from there. I think Kashmir is really a paradise and I would wish to go back in summer..

karthik_mitta

Thanks for a lovely report, oneheart. Glad that you had such a lovely trip and the details in your report will definitely be helpful for many travelers.

Cheers!

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KM

In the process of gaining our rightful place, we must not be guilty of wrongful deeds - Martin Luther King Jr.

oneheart

Thanks Karthik.. I hope it's not too lond-winded.. I intend to write for all the cities i've visited because there are many things i've learnt through the trip but have been trying to find time to do it.. Haven't had time to organise my photos and upload them.. Been busy after coming back from trip and miss the carefree life..

alonqexe

Great one u have there. I shall share mine too some other time. It looks like we stayed in the same houseboat.

Ah, i really miss my time there. Eventhough it was very cold during winter, but the people there made us feel good. I really wanna go back and have more holiday there.

oneheart

Ya i missed it.. i really want to go back.. maybe save up n go the next summer..!

alonqexe

Ahahaha.
I still cant imagine how the garden which looks so white and clean during winter will be in summer. Mr Rashid told us that it was very beautiful there.

Next summer, i dont think i'll have the chance to do so. Perhaps when i finish my time studying here, i'll go for Kashmir once again.

Hmm, looks like you did have a try on skiing. Too bad we didnt. T_T There was a powercut in Gulmarg on that day, thus we cant go to the top because of that. No gondola service was available. Jealous2. hehehe.

Ms Princess W

Reading your recap of your Kashmir trip makes me even more anxious to get on the plane. Just about 6 months to go.......

My fiance' knows the owner of Chicago Houseboat and yes, he's a very nice, very honorable man. I'm so glad your trip was wonderful; with the state of things in Kashmir and the information/misinformation going around, it makes me happy to know people are having lovely experiences in my adopted homeland!

vandy

Now that you have experienced Kashmir in the Winter you Must try the Summertime, I have done both and enjoyed Both Immensely.

Glad you had a wonderfull trip & looking forward
to viewing your Pics.

vandy

somnath

Congratulations Oneheart . I really love Kashmir and I have a dream to visit Kashmir once again but in winter. Thanks for sharing your experience and if possible please share your photographs.

Cheers.

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