Trip report - Kashmir September 2012

India mike forum helped me a lot to plan my awesome Kashmir trip. This is the first time I am trying to write a trip report and to add to that I am definitely not a great writer, so please excuse all the silly mistakes. I would like to specially thank SP Gupta and Edward, as their information was greatly helpful to me.

We were travelling from Mumbai and we were a family with 2 adults, 1 senior citizen and 1 three year old kid.

Lastly before starting I would like everyone to know that this trip report is entirely based on my personal experience.

Day 01 : 21st Sep 2012.

We left by Rajdhani for Delhi, then to board a flight to Srinagar. We did this to reduce our travelling cost as we were travelling with a senior citizen and a kid. Train fare for seniors is 50% less and the kid was free.

Day 02 : 22nd Sep 2012.

We reached New Delhi station on time (8.30 a.m). As soon as we stepped out from the station we were surrounded by touts who quoted a absurd amount for transfer to airport the lowest one was 500. But, we took a radio taxi and reached airport in 20-25 mins and the fare was Rs.400 only.

We checked in our luggage and headed to one of the many restaurants to have tea and later something to munch as our flight was at 12.40 p.m. We had planned to go directly to Pahalgam, so we called few taxi drivers to pick us up from Srinagar airport. (I had couple of contacts courtesy Indiamike). Finally, fixed a taxi for Rs.1900.

Reached Srinagar airport on time and met our driver outside and stated towards Pahalgam. The journey lasted for 2.5 hours and we passed saffron fields, Avantipur ruins and Anantnag (Islamabad), after which the route was very beautiful. The freshness in the air was awesome and we felt as though we were in different world. Pahalgam is a small town and since we arrived from a big city (Mumbai) to finally a picturesque small town, the contrast made the difference look bigger and more beautiful.

We had already shortlisted some hotels in Pahalgam and called the before. We wanted a hotel besides the Lidder river. That being the basic criteria we checked some shortlisted hotels and finally settled for Grand Heritage Resort in the village. It is a small hotel (I would rather call it homestay) with 8 rooms with all basic facilities i.e. 24 hrs hot water, TV, decent bedding. It has a small garden behind which overlooks Lidder river. We chose the river facing rooms and enjoyed the gurgling sound of water throughout our stay. We loved this part, but to others it may be annoying. We asked for dinner and had some hot home cooked rice and dal and went to bed.

Sumo driver (Mehraj) : 09906409448
Hotel Grand Heritage Resort, (Double room @Rs.700/day)
Chandan Wari Road, Laripora, Pahalgam.
Gh. Hassan. Bhai : 09469422242, 9906453603

Please carry on.....We need your report.

Mod Note
There is no need to quote the previous post.

Dear avvi,

Please give the photos of Grand Heritage Resort (Lidder view from hotel also) if possible. I have search but not found. How far is it from Taxi stand?

Actually my wife demand that a good hotel beside Lidder river. If you know any better hotel then please suggest.

We will also arrived at 10.30 am (25 Nov 12). We are worried that where should we go first. Gulmarg or Pahalgam. We have a plan to night stay to both places. Is it possible to go Gulmarg after arriving and doing gondola and ski activities in afternoon (I heard a Gondola ticket counter in Srinagar Airport from where my plan is to purchase tickets). Then next day morning move to Pahalgam. What you suggest?

Due to time constrain I can’t go Srinagar first.

@Raatul : In my opinion you should go to Pahalgam first.

In Gulmarg you reach higher altitudes through gondola, and after a journey you have greater chances of altitude sickness. On the other hand Pahalgam will give you time to acclimatize to higher altitudes. Besides, the last slot for gondola 2nd phase was till 1.00 pm only when we went and you will take atleast 2.5 hrs from airport to Gulmarg.

I will try and post photos of the hotel. But remember it is budget hotel more like a homestay. Actually that is what we liked about it too. The family stays next door and they work for this hotel together.

Hope this helps.

Day 03 : 23rd Sep 2012.

Plan for today was to visit places around the market and visit Baisaran post lunch.

We got ready by 9.00 in morning, reached the main road and waited for the local bus to take us to market. The bus stop is also near a flowing river, so we clicked snaps and enjoyed the beauty and the 10min wait time was over. Bus took us to market for Rs.4 per person and the locals were surprised to see tourists in the bus were all others were locals.

Reached market and had our breakfast at Dana Pani restaurant. The restaurant is really good. We walked to Gowrishankar temple, Mamal temple and enjoyed in a park nearby. There are many parks in Pahalgam. The whole town is generally beautiful and the people are nice. We then wanted to go to Baisaran, so started to bargain with ponywalas. We told that we wish to visit Baisaran and waterfall only and not the other points mentioned by them. Actually all other points are on the way. After a lot of bargaining we finally agreed at Rs.500 per pony for all points.

The horse ride in itself was amazing. We were scared initially but we managed and started enjoying it. My 62 year old mother also came along with us on a pony and the ponywala made sure that she gets the smoothest riding horse. One thing you should be sure of is that always have one person with each pony. We stuck to that rule and trust me it is absolutely required. The path is actually a climb uphill where many opted to trek, but I was glad that I was on a pony.

We saw Kashmir Valley point and waterfall on our way and reached Baisaran (Mini Switzerland). The place was awesome. Locals too were seen at this place, who had come for picnic. My son rolled in the green grass, clicked photos with sheep and went running around. I clicked few snaps and relaxed in the lap of Mother Nature and all my stress seemed to melt away.
We were approached by vendors but we told them that we have already made that particular purchase and politely refused. Though other people found ponywalas and vendors a nuisance, we did not face any such circumstances. We just repeatedly but politely kept refusing their offer with a smile and they went away. Zorbing facilities are also avialable at Baisaran.

After spending almost more than 1.5 hours we had some hot Maggie and tea and started our journey further. They showed us few more points like point were Maharaja Harish chandra went for hunting etc. But we really did not care and enjoyed the natural beauty and solitude in woods. We were the only ones around with the green pastures, tall trees and blue sky. We enjoyed every moment of it.

Journey downhill on the pony was more scary than going up but we survived and enjoyed. We came down paid the ponywalas and gave them bakshish. Actually, these ponywalas do not own these ponies they just get paid a fixed salary which is really less, only the bakshish we give goes to them and the actual fare is taken by the horse owner. So bargain initially but give bakshish later. You will not feel the pinch if you calculate it initially itself.

We went to Nathu’s rasoi for some snacks and had chole bhature. The food was strictly OK and the price was on the higher side. We roamed around in the market bought some apples and caught a local bus back to village and strolled down to our hotel.

Had a homely dinner of sabzi and roti and went off to sleep.

Great report so far!
It would be excellent with picture upload or with link of images etc.

Wake up avvi and post the remaining part of your trip report...

Great start avvi.. This is an another excellent trip report which is going to enrich the forum.

Day 04 : 24th Sep 2012.

Got up early, spend some time in the little garden of our hotel and left by 8.30. We had carried some cheese and bread which we had as breakfast. You should try local goat cheese if available (we were not fortunate). Again some route by local bus to TRC. Just behind TRC is the share taxi stand from where we took a share taxi which locals take for Aru Valley. (thanks Edward for this info). There are two advantages to take a share taxi; firstly the cost i.e. Rs.30 per person (though this taxi guy took 40 from us) and the advantage that we can spend as much time possible in the valley. If you take a private exclusive taxi they have a time limit of 3 hrs (extra charge per hour beyond that) which can be a hindrance. The taxi stand people do not like tourist to take the local share taxi and would misguide you, so be careful. The route is extremely scenic so, keep the camera ready.

After getting down from taxi we proceed to have tea and then started to bargain for pony. The Government prices are steep, but be assured that they will definitely bargain the price. We took three horses @ Rs.200 per horse for cave point and Aru Valley.

First we were taken to cave point were water comes naturally from a small cave and it’s a cute and rocky road. From there on were went to Aru Valley point. The view here is breathtaking. My three year old threw a tantrum and refused to climb a pony and it was not possible for us to carry him and walk. So, we were contemplating what to do, but the ponywala was so helpful and he offered to carry my kid around. We were so thankful to him, as it was because of him that we could enjoy to the fullest. Infact, my kid got super friendly with the ponywala and he too enjoyed. Enjoyed and soaked in the beauty of the valley. As the first few tourists, we enjoyed the solitude. After spending around two hours we came back as the weather was deteriorating. We gave a handsome bakshish to the ponywalas and took a share cab for downward journey.

One can climb a small hill to reach Aru valley view point. We would not have used a pony if we had not gone as a family.

We reached down had our lunch at Dana Pani. According to the plan we had to visit Betaab valley but my son was not keeping well so, we dropped the idea. We strolled around in the market and did some shopping. We bought dryfruits from Kisan Dryfruit Shop in the market and some other gift articles and returned back to village. We spend some time near the flowing Shesnag river and went back to hotel garden and enjoy the evening and sunset. Had homemade dinner and retired to bed.

We were to check out of the hotel in the morning and conveyed the same to the owners, so that they can keep the bill ready.

@sureshb2007 : Sorry for the delay, but was caught in pending work due to holidays. Hopefully next installments will be quicker

@CK : I still have to sort out some 950 snaps. Will surely upload pics as soon as possible.

@Avvi
From Aru valley how do we reach Beatab valley if we are not taking any exclusive car?As you said you didn't visit Betaab valley,not sure if you have any info on this.

Hi avvi,

Perhaps I'm a bit late to this thread...... enjoyed two more threads going on Kashmir and yes, this one too

Aru valley is really interesting !!!!.... 'ii wait for next part.

Nice going ....

excellent first travelogue very enjoyable!!!

@bappa01 : We did visit Betaab valley, but a day later.

There is a local bus service available from village, which is not very frequent. According to the gathered information there is a bus in the morning, but we did not use it. Instead we took a taxi for Betaab valley and used it to reach share taxi stand also. The charges were Rs.400 for maruti van. Otherwise drop to taxistand itself was Rs.150/-, so we clubbed the two.

@Avvi
Thanks a lot.