Trip Report - 20th to 29th September covering Srinagar, Katra, Srinagar, Yusmarg etc

To begin with, since I had already booked my tickets from Hyderabad to Srinagar in advance, so I went ahead with my travel plan of going to Katra from Srinagar than from Jammu.

The places I covered are :

20th - Reached Srinagar and 12 45 PM and took cab straight to Katra and reached Katra at around 11 PM.

21st - Did darshan of Mata Vaishno Devi.

22nd - Started from Katra and 10 30 AM and reached Srinagar by around 8 PM.

23rd - Went to Yusmarg from Srinagar and back.

24th - Went to Gulmarg from Srinagar and back.

25th - Went to Pahalgam from Srinagar and back.

26th - Went to Dodhpathri from Srinagar and back.

27th - Went to Sonmarg from Srinagar and back.

28th - Local Sight seeing in Srinagar.

29th - Departure from Srinagar to Hyderabad.

Sure, since I started my journey from Srinagar, I had incurred more charges on the cab. I had prebooked my cab from Hyderabad itself and I had also spoken with Titu Singh, one of the drivers people suggested in the forum. He had quoted a price of Rs 23,500 for the entire journey i.e. from Srinagar to Katra and back, and then from Srinagar to Sonmarg, gulmarg, Pahalgam, local etc. So I wanted to double check the prices once again so I called up just dial and got a few numbers. Then I was contacted by Rameez Abbas who offered to give me a brand new scorpio for my trip. After discussing, we had a deal that from Srinagar to Katra and back to Srinagar, he would give me a tavera since his car being a brand new one had to complete the registration formalities with the RTO. So we stuck up a deal of Rs 24000 for all days starting from the 20th until my drop on the 29th including places in Srinagar. Please note that since I wanted my privacy and wanted to go at my own time, hence I opted for this option of going by a private car.

Started my Journey along with my wife on the 20th from Hyderabad and reached Srinagar at 12 45PM. Was happy to see the cab already waiting for me. Took the cab from airport and started straight for Katra and reached Katra at around 10 30 pm. Stayed in Hotel Sanjeev Palace which charged Rs 900 per day after bargaining from 1400.

21st Morning started for darshan to Vaishno Devi and came back after Darshan by around 9 30 PM. I had initially started my trek by walk but may be because of the heat during the day, I could only reach some point until Ardhkuwari and then felt weak and feverish and vomittings. So I then hired a pony for the rest of the yatra and so I could complete deviji darshan and bhairavji darshan and comeback by night. After coming back, we had dinner in
the room itself and retired for the night. The food was good and tasty.
Also I must say, it is better to bargain if planning for a pony at the start itself, else the pony wallas from between will show lot of attitude saying I will only go until a certain point and not further etc. I had this problem too and so I called up the director's number provided on the boards where they have the contact numbers displayed and with his help I could get a pony. Please also note that the pre paid pony stands will not help much as they too get their commission for the pony wallas and say that sir pony is not available and if you can yourself get a pony, we will allot it to you. After lot of drama and calls to the director of the shrine board, I was allotted a pony for the rest of the track at a little higher price mentioned on the prepaid stand. All was now well and I had a good darshan and was happy to be back on time too.

22nd Morning we woke up by 9 AM and started for our trip back to Srinagar by around 10 30 AM and reached Srinagar by 8 or 8 30 PM. On the way stopped at places in Patni top, Titanic Point etc for a few snaps. Had a heavy lunch Rajma Chawal with Ghee and ofcourse it was very tasty one too at Ramban.
Once we reached srinagar searched for a few hotels and then finally decided
on Sun and Shade opposite Dal gate , shikara ghat number 2. He initially quoted a price of Rs 1600 and after bargaining, we agreed for Rs 1200. The room was quite spacious with 24 hours hot water, clean bed, chairs, sofa, a table and almirah. It was a clean room with clean bathrooms and was a delight since I had a view of the Dal lake from my room window.

My room was on the 3rd Floor and room number was 301. Also the hotel has room service, and the good part is that the entrance to the hotel is through Punjab Di Rasoi, an open shelter hotel which serves very good food. Through I have heard Sri Krishna Dhaba on Boulevard Road is a bit cheap and tasty, I liked food in our hotel too. It served almost all varieties of food. Also there is a punjab di rasoi opposite dal gate, shikara gate 1, I did not like the food there.

23rd morning was greeted by Rameez and his brother Imran, the travel agents and a brand new Scorpio . Was good to talk to them and it was good to know them too. Just want to let you know that these 2 guys are well educated and from good family so that is what built more confidence in me that I was in safe hands for the rest of the trip. Now that we had a short
talk, we started on our trip to Yusmarg along with Rameez and Imran as the driver had not come today. On the way, they showed us the old kashmir and a lot of information regarding kashmir etc. Stopped enroute wherever we wanted to so that we could take pictures etc. Atlast we reached Yusmarg with good and some bads road conditions, and were happy to see the place with less number of tourists and plush greenery with mountains surrounded. We went to the JKTDC canteen, had some coffee and toast as it had started to drizzle. After it stopped, we went around sight seeing and took some pictures and all. Loved the place and then after spending around 2 hours we started on our way back to srinagar. On the way saw lots of apple trees and also since Rameez was a localite, he bargained and we could get more than a dozen apples for Rs 40 . After we reached srinagar, then we went around the Dal Lake and visited the Botanical Gardens etc. After a drive around Dal Lake we went back to the hotel, ordered food and retired for the day. Also, I loved driving the Scorpio around the valleys and the city.

24th morning we woke up to a bright a refreshing day. Since we loved the drive with Imran and Rameez asked if we could travel with them again, they obliged happily and Imran alone had come today with the car since they wanted us to have our privacy. So again I asked Imran if I could drive the car, he agreed and we started on our way to Gulmarg today.

Again, I want to say that since the car still did not have a taxi plate yet, I could drive the car without hassles. So I drove the car from the hotel until Tangmarg I think was the place. Since the area now being hilly, Imran suggested he drive since the curves might be new to me, so I gave his car back to him on the promise that I could drive it on the way back. . Now we reached Gulmarg and all was well until we got down from the car. The pony wallas had surrounded us and started pushing on us to take the pony. As Imran tried to say them off, they threatened and frightened him and said that though you may come as a local, still we being tourists, he must stay in the car as a driver and let us be on our own. So I felt bad for him and told him that we will take care of ourselves and asked him not to deal with the pony wallas. So after a lot of bargaining, we had settled for Rs 400 per pony
. He took us around the valley and then we reached Gondola station. Knowing that there was very little snow on phase 2, we went until phase 1. Loved the ride, I must say everyone must experience it. As we got down at phase 1, it takes about a few minutes to get used to the air I think so we walked a bit and then again the pony walla's came behind us to take the pony. Again we hired the pony for Rs 200 per pony. This ride was a bit tough one since the way to the water falls and other points was rocky. We reached the falls and there was also some snow which had turned muddy so we just took some pictures there and spent some time watching the nature and enjoying the breeze. Went back to the Gondola station after spending around 3 hours on phase 1. Again we stood in the line and got into the gondola to our ride back down and once again enjoyed it. Took our pony which was waiting down and went back to our car. We felt bad to see Imran waiting for us as he was not a driver and had rather come as a friend as per our request. We had some snacks and some talk and left for our way back to Srinagar. Once again as I was eager to drive, I asked the keys of the car and started our way back. Not a single moment came to my mind that I was scared thinking that I was in Srinagar and so many protests and terror activities happen here. Thanks again to Rameez and Imran for making us feel safe. After coming back to Srinagar, we went around down town to local markets etc and then asked if we could get some nice biryani to eat . Since I only eat chicken, Imran took me to few joints and made sure that it was only chicken and nothing else, we finally took it from Delhi Darbar in Lal Chowk and went back to the hotel. We told Imran that it was not good today that he was treated like that by the pony wallas so we told him we will continue with the driver next day onwards.

25th Morning, we woke up again to a bright and cold morning. We started for our way to Pahalgam. Since there was some problem on the road we were stuck in heavy traffic for about half an hour and then when we got some way, the driver took a round turn and we went back a little for an alternate route to pahalgam. Though the roads on the way were not wide enough, we loved the route as it was through the interior parts of Kashmir and just apple
trees and apple trees . Loved the way once again and then we finally reached Pahalgam.

Got off from the car and again after bargaining hired a pony for Rs 400 per person. I know some of you might think what I have bargained for was still higher, I must say that the price each time I was quoted was around 1000rs per person and I m not a good bargainer and I did not want my wife to talk to these people as they are not worthy enough to talk.

Again, I must say that the pony walla who comes along with you to the points are good, the pony walla's everywhere whom you talk to or bargain with are not worth the talk. Looks to me like they are under some kind of terror that they work for these people.

So once again we start our trek to Baisaran etc from here. The trek path which the horse takes is once again a bit tough one, but you will enjoy it . It is ok if you can walk from here too but it is tiring as you have to climb slopes and reach the points. Again if you can walk well, it is good, else if you want to hire a pony, it is good too. But you can bargain here, or if you plan to visit Doodhpathri, I would say skip the Baisaran way trek etc points one as this they says is mini Switzerland, but it is much better in doodh pathri. Nothing much is here to be seen, since the valley view is visible from the taxi
stand and they ll show u the same after a height. Again the waterfall , since there is less water as of now, it was not worth it. Coming now to Baisaran, it was good but again as I said, if you feel that you might miss something, then go else doodh pathri is better and also not crowded at all. Spent sometime there, clicked few pictures and then came back to the car. Then we went to taxi stand for a visit to Betaab, Aru and Chandanwari. Took some pictures on the way and came back as we didnot want to hire any more of pony. Came back to our car and started for our way back to Srinagar. On the way back, went to Martand Sun Temple and Gurudwara. Spent time there , fed the fishes and started on our way back. Again stopped at Awantipur Temple which is now in ruins, went around the temple and back to Srinagar. Since we were tired, we had dinner and retired for the day.

26th Morning, we started on our way to Doodhpathri by around 10 30 am. The roads are good all through the way and the last 4 kms the roads are being laid and I must say that the conditions of the road here is not good at all. It is a bumpy ride here. Though you will enjoy the beautiful nature and calm. Finally we reached and went to the flowing water fall. No worry of pony here atleast for now I must say , but may be in another 5-6 months once the place becomes a popular tourist destination, you might start feeling the pain of the
pony wallas again. Walked around the lake, took pictures and spent sometime watching the flowing river. Then started back and stopped at a small canteen to have tea and snacks. The canteen waala made a poori so big that it could easily feed 6-7 people. Then we walked through the plains and took some pictures again. Spent sometime and started our way back to the city. Came back and then visited Hari Parbat ( Saraswati Devi Temple ), Badam Vaer, Nishat Bagh, Hazratbal. Then went downtown for some shopping. Since we went to the tourist shops, we didnot shop as the prices were high. Went back to lal chowk, took biryani, went back to the hotel, ate and slept as we had to get up early for visiting Sonmarg as roads were to be closed on account of the president visiting the university.

Woke up early on the 27 th morning early at 4 30 am and started for our journey to Sonmarg at 6 am. Coming to Sonmarg, it is a beautiful place with all mountains and wonderful views of them. But as soon as you reach sonmarg, be ready to be surrounded by pony wallas quoting an absolutely unimaginably horrifyingly high amount to visit the glacier i.e. 2500 rs per pony to visit Thwajias glacier and around 9000 rs to visit zero point, end of kashmir valley and fishing point by road. Feels like kicking them but I had no option but to bargain and went for 600 rs per pony though you can bargain more I think. Again please make it very clear with them that you are going to the glacier and not to a small snow formation between the mountain else you are not paying them or are free to leave the pony since I have seen them fooling everyone by taking them to a small snow formation which is between the mountains and all the pony wallas including the chai waalas near the glacier who ll say that this is the glacier and not the one forward and the people going forward are the ones who are trekking which is not the case. It is only when you start arguing with them will they take you forward and all the pony wallas then will come together and say ki sir we will take you there but please dont say loud else other people will also say the same. So please be careful of this. Also once you are back from the glacier, then you can ask your cab driver to take you little forward on the road so you can also see the fishing point and a view of the end of kashmir valley but this again depends on the driver. Hope this helps. Pony wallas are a nuisance every where is all I can say apart from that I can guarantee you that the entire kashmir trip is one of a life time journey.

On the way back, visited Kheer Bhavaniji Mandir. Was a lovely temple and well maintained by the army. Spent some time talking to people from the army and then started on my way back to the city. Spent sometime around the dal lake and then went back to the hotel.

28th Morning started our journey for local sight seeing. Went to the old down town, maharaja bazaar, then to lal chowk did some dry fruit shopping and came back to dal lake again. Went to Shankar Acharya mandir, chashme shahi, mughal garden, Pari Mahal, etc and went back again in the afternoon to lal chowk. Did some shopping again and returned to the hotel. Kept our luggage in the hotel room and then came down for our shikara ride. Did shikara for around 2 and half hours, through meena bazar , park, etc and came back to the hote. Completed all local sight seeing today.

29th Morning, being our last day , thanked my hotel owner, the cooks of Delhi di Rasoi and the service boy for making my stay a memorable one and then left for the airport. Thanked Rameez and Imran once again for making our trip a once in a lifetime one.

Some of the pictures that I could upload are in the link mentioned below.

Planning to visit Kashmir between 20th and 30th September

Please let me know if you have any questions or need my help, I shall be happy to help you.

Regards
Pavan

@Pavan
Enjoyed every bit of info...Is Doodhpathri and Yusmarg same destination ? If not then what's distance from Srinagar for both.

@Pravan , nice and informative trip report !
I am planning to visit J & K between Oct 20 Oct 30 , 2012. We are four people with a child @ 9 years and Sr Citizen @75 years with knee problem .
We plan to hire an exclusive vehicle from Jammu -Jammu tentatively from 20 Oct -27/28 Oct (7 days/8 days )
I understand that you are happy with your car renal fellow , Can you please share the Contact details an rate . I hope he is reliable and safe driver .
If you have any other contacts regarding reliable driver at Jammu , it will be extremely helpful if you can share .
I have not pre-booked and plan to hire hotel once I reach Srinagar . Will it be a hazard considering the tout problem , a many has reported .Can we take our vehicle from Jammu and ourselves check Hotels on Boulevard on Dal lake and bargain ?

Can you suggest names of few mre Hotels where you may not have stayed but appeared good arounf your Hotel Sun and Shade .
Another point is that Rack Rates of Hotels in there website appears very much exorbitant . Is it OK to bargain with them , if so what is the better option - bargain once I reach or over telephone before I land in Srinagar

Hope you may take pain to repond
Thanks

Hello Everyone

Thanks for the likes and your comments.

Yusmarg and Doodhpathri are 2 different destinations. It will take abour 2 hours drive to reach both of these destinations from Srinagar. They are 2 different routes.

The phone number of Rameez is +91 94190 21868.

I liked doodh patri and I am not sure how the place would be in November. I hope you like it. It is not commercialised yet and it is beautiful. I have also posated some pics above and am unable to post any more as I am getting an error. Will try to upload again if it works.

I tried to search few more hotels but there is another hotel beside this one Hotel Zabarwan and there are few more on Boulevard road which you may want to check. You can bargain with them but I am not sure how much it would cost. This one suited my budget so I took it. You can bargain everywhere and I am sure you can get a nice deal.

I shall be happy to answer any other queries.

Regards
Pavan

Thanks Pravan for your prompt reply .
Can you touch upon a bit on weather and temperatare .
I am planning a halt at Patni Top . Is there any good place to stay as night-stop-over ahead of Patni towards Srinagar , any idea you can share !

helo pg66, for staying in patnitop is not at all a problem, lot of budget, luxury hotel accomdations available there.

can we go to sonmerg directly from pehalgam.

Hello

@Surinder : Sorry for the late reply. I think yes you can go to Sonmarg from Pahalgam provided you start early from Pahalgam since both the destinations are in opposite directions to Srinagar.

@pg66 - The weather in Patnitop would be quite cold at that time when you plan to reach so I would say heavy woolens might be required. Regarding the hotels, I think there are many options available in Patnitop and most of them are on the road itself so you may not find it difficult to get hotels. I cannot suggest any hotel as I did not stay in patnitop.

Regards
Pavan

Pictures from my trip

Badam vari

Flower