Travelling alone in northern India

bewis

I'm a 19 year old boy, planning on travelling around northern India. I'm in Nepal at the moment, and intend on travelling to Delhi, before doing somekind of route around the mountains in the north. My main concern is, as a solo traveller, is it safe. Everyone hears horror stories of tourists being kidknapped, or even killed, and busses on the Manali-Leh road toppling over the side. Normally I wouldn't be one to listen to such stories, but I know the situation there can be very difficult at the times. I haven't planned my route yet, and probably won't for a while, so It would be useful if people could advise me on places that are potentially unsafe to visit, and places that are a must-see for that matter.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Mickey S

I don't think you should be too concerned about travelling alone, as long as you take the usual precautions that you would take anywhere in the world. I travel alone frequently in northern India and, although I'm considerably older than you, have never felt threatened in any way. People are generally helpful and kind, and you will undoubtedly meet other travellers going the same way as you to hook up with, if only for a single bus journey.

As for the buses - yes, some of the roads are dangerous (in fact, after a couple of near-death experiences, I have decided never again to travel by bus in those parts) but if a bus goes over the edge it makes no difference whether you're travelling alone or not.

A good route would be to take the Inner Line route from Shimla (Sarahan-Sangla-Kalpa-Nako-Tabo-Kaza) then over the Kunzum La pass to Manali and on to Leh. Stunning scenery, but very dangerous roads. You'll need an inner-line permit, which is easily obtained at the tourist information office in Rekong Peo; you'll need a photocopy of your passport and your visa and Rs150. They deal with them twice a day, at 10.30 and 2.30 (because they have to take you to the magistrate's office to get the permit signed).

bewis

Thanks for that, it's made me more confident. Good point that if a bus goes over, it makes no difference whether you're alone or in a group. What other options are there to bus travel? How else can you see the Manali-Leh road?

Ben

Mickey S

There are no realistic alternatives to bus travel, unless you are happy to splash out for a jeep and driver. If you're alone, that can work out rather expensive. You might be able to hitch a ride, but truck drivers are just as reckless as bus drivers (and you'd be exposing yourself to other potential dangers). In practice, very few buses actually do go over the edge - just trust that it's not going to happen to you.

steven_ber

You don't need to go to Delhi, there are trains from Gorakhpur that will get you very close to Rishikesh, Chandigarh (For Shimla) and other places.

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ananda2193

Since your already in Nepal, you could take a bus across western Nepal to Mahendranagar and enter northern India there bypassing Delhi.
As far as buses going down cliffs, well when I'm in the mountains I always ride on top of the bus. They always tell me to come down but I insist and ignore them and tell them I rode from here to here, e.g. with no problems and they eventually give up and allow me to ride ontop. And the view is awesome from up there, and in case the bus were to go over there's the chance to jump and save your ass. but if your stuck inside, fagetaboutit. But the odd's that your bus going over is slim and would be really bad luck for you.

And as far as kidnappings and being killed. Your more likely to have this happen to you here in the states. Really don't think it's acommon occurrence their.

Mickey S

Riding on top of the bus on those roads is just reckless. The ride is so bumpy that you would have to be holding on tight at all times - no possibility of relaxing or dozing - and there is a very significant risk of losing your grip and falling off. You're safer inside the bus.

ananda2193

If your talking about the Manali-Leh road I don't know because never did it. If your suggesting that it's like that on all the normal roads in the Himalayas, your talking nonsense. I did it all the time. The bus has a luggage rack with sides probably 12 inches high. There's absolutely no way of falling off. It's very easy to relax and lay down noo problem. The only thing you have to worry about is low hanging branches. So if your sitting up you must always be alert for these and not get caught up in the amazing scenery.

machadinha

Bewis, you posted this in Jammu & Kashmir forum. Is it that region you want advise on, or all of North India? While J&K could involve some specific concerns, it looks like none of the places mentioned so far are there.

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