We've just been in Srinagar for 9 days. Safety no problem - huge military presence and security checks all over. Bigger problem the huge number of Indian tourists. Dahl lake very crowded. Better option Nagin Lake. All very expensive. Road to Leh no problem - spectacular!
worst problem fake prices
several of us on different houseboats were charged outrageous prices for rooms and quoted outrageous prices (that we couldn't afford) for trekking. E.g., 20,000 for 2 nights of trekking, when you could get much much cheaper (3 nights for 12000 or perhaps even less). You can argue over whether getting charged "Western" prices is fair or not, but in any case you CAN get cheaper, you just have to go to several different houseboats and have patience. After one bad experience, we moved and found pretty quickly a good one on Dal with very decent room rates and reasonable trekking prices.
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