Kashmir trip : A repeat attempt on a budget

PROLOGUE

The name chosen for this thread contain two parts i.e. Kashmir Trip (this is self explanatory, needs no clarification); but the other part i.e. A Repeat Attempt On A Budget needs a brief explanation. Let me do it first.

In the year 2010, we had planned a trip to Kashmir. Tickets/Hotels etc. were pre booked. My son graciously sponsored our journey ticket and it was obviously by air. In order to avail economical fare, we booked our tickets a few months in advance. Everything was going great, but then all hell broke loose. Readers may kindly recall that in this year Kashmir Separatists started a new form of agitation called continuous blockade coupled with stone pelting etc. At first we did not take it seriously and hoped that this will pass eventually. But it continued unabatedly. Every morning we get up to see TV reports, News Papers and Net Surfing. Apprehension grew, frustration begun to spread and finally despair took over. All hopes started receding and there was no change in situation. I had written many posts in IM at that time and had asked the opinion from our members. All of them discouraged us to proceed and some had expressed their regret for not being able to make it. Finally it dawned upon us that in no way we could make this trip happen, so we most reluctantly and with a broken heart had cancelled our tickets and hotel bookings. All of our tickets were bought from budget Airlines and they were non refundable. Consequently, as you had understood, we lost huge chunk of money in the process. Grudgingly we took a vow that no more Kashmir, there are many places in our country which are no inferior to Kashmir. We will visit those places, but not to Kashmir any more!

But, then, time is a great healer. Time passed by, slowly but surely the idea of visiting Kashmir again started to grow in our mind. A self developed logic like Kashmir is called a paradise on earth and if we do not visit Kashmir, we will miss to see a paradise in our life time!. Well, you know such self-deceiving logic has strong effect on most of us and it did same on us also. Then, one day, when we are planning our next trip, suddenly, all in unison, we shouted, “Chalo, let’s go to Kashmir”! It was unanimously agreed with a rider. Last time we had lost lot of money on cancellations, this time it will have to be a budget trip, no splashes, no air journey, no deluxe hotel or house boats etc. etc. We will go by train (if at all (oh no!) we have to cancel our tickets once again, we will get back most of our money as per Railway Rules, we will travel within Kashmir by using public transport, shared vehicle, we will stay in frugal, budget hotels etc. etc. so that we can keep our expenses down to the minimum.

With the above background, we started our planning. I started following up each and every post in IM written about Kashmir, asking questions in IM, receiving feed back, talking to actual recent travelers etc. etc. Finally we finalized our program. We drew the program for the month of September 2012. The idea is to complete the trip before Durga Puja thereby avoiding the likely Durga Puja/Dussera crowd. I got a feed back from Suvendu, a fellow IMers, who had traveled to Kashmir during September 2011 with his family and in laws that month of September is relatively lean season in Kashmir and that is why he could get very good deal for houseboat and hotels. I thought Suvendu’s advise is very practical and had decided to follow his timings. The program, as chalked out by us is reproduced below:


1st day 18/09 Tues Dep. Howrah
2nd day 19/09 Wed Train
3rd day 20/09 Thurs Arr Jammu & Night Halt
4th day 21/09 Fri Jammu to Srinagar & Night Halt
5th day 22/09 Sat Srinagar local
6th day 23/09 Sun Sonemarg & back to Srinagar
7th day 24/09 Mon Gulmarg & back to Srinagar
8th day 25/09 Tues Departure to Pahelgaon & Night Halt
9th day 26/09 Wed Pahelgaon Night Halt
10th day 27/09 Thurs Pahelgaon to Jammu & start for Howrah
11th day 28/09 Fri Train
12th day 29/09 Sat Arr Howrah

While selecting the train, there was fierce debate. There are two opinions: (1) Let us go by Himigiri Exp. It is a super fast train and goes directly to Jammu; and the other (2) No, let us go via Delhi. Himigiri is notoriously known for late running. Hence we should go to Delhi by Duronto Exp and then take another super fast train to Jammu from Delhi. But finally majority voted for Himgiri as Himgiri provides (despite late running stigma) certain advantages; (a) it is a direct train. No transshipment or change of train. Less hassle. (b) It reaches Jammu around 12 noon and even if it is late, we will surely reach Jammu before evening, and this would give us a much needed rest throughout the night and also enough time to finalize our mode of onward journey (ticket booking, hiring of vehicle as the case may be). This would also help to start our journey to Srinagar as early as possible to beat the possible traffic jam enroute.

Having finalized our train, we moved to actual booking of train tickets. Now a day, rail booking starts 4 months in advance. So, it has to be booked during the month of May only. However, the task of ticket booking (both ways) has since been accomplished without any hitch. Both to and fro are confirmed tickets. A hurdle is crossed.

As usual, guys, I depend heavily on the feed back from our own IMers, especially those who had traveled recently. I hope I will continue to get help from our members to make our trip a success.
To begin with, I would like to place the following quarries:

1. Does the above program look okay or not; does it require any change?
2. Please suggest me one or two budget hotels, both at Srinagar as also at Pahelgam (<= 500/-). May be a budget House Boat also at Srinagar.
3. Is it okay and comfortable if we travel from Jammu to Srinagar by JKRTC Hi-tech Bus? Is this type of buses are available at the early hours ex-Jammu? I would love to hear from the actual travelers who had traveled themselves on this route by Hitech Bus or by shared vehicle
4. What about travel within the State of Kashmir viz. Srinagar to Gulmarg/Sonemarg/Pahelgam & back? I understand that tourists can buy JKRTC Bus tickets (both to & from as well as one way also) from TRC, Srinagar. How are these buses? Is it okay with budget travelers like us?
5. For Srinagar local sight seeing, I need your opinion about Auto option. We are 4 adults. Can all of us be accommodated in a single Auto? My request is addressed to those who had actually traveled by Auto at Srinagar. Guys, if possible, please forward name & contact phone number of an Auto Operator who they found to be good.
6. We have approximately 4 months to go; meanwhile if any IMer group’s program matches with that of ours and the group wants to join us, it will be our pleasure to travel together. We are two senior citizens and two young adults.

Before I conclude this Introductory portion, I must confess that we are in “once- bitten-twice-shy” kind of mental set up, our mind is hovering around hope and despair. We are keeping our fingers crossed. Please wish us luck, guys! Thanks

Asishda, a few tips from my end. Jammu to Srinagar is a huge distance ~300kms so prepare for a tiring journey. Similarly Pahelgam to Jammu is a long way.
For Sonamarg and Gulmarg, you have to probably book a car, not sure if buses ply on that route. Those cars get you to a certain point and then you have to book local cars or horses to go further.
Although there is no militant problem as of now but there are sometimes local strikes and agitation, so check the night before going to those places from Srinagar and if necessary change the itinerary ad-hoc.
4 persons can be accommodated in a single auto, there is no restriction, one has to sit in the front but those autos are probably smaller than the kolkata counterparts and they have doors as well in the back.

If you are not planning for Vaishno Devi, then its better to arrive at Srinagar directly. You can reach Delhi by train and then book Delhi-Srinagar flight. This will save lot of time.

Regarding non-refundable tickets, if you cancel those you can still ask for money refund. Or else you get a voucher which can be used again for the same airlines. So should not be a problem.

One more point, we recently visited Kashmir in April and we were told that September is the best time to visit the valley. Hence, donot expect it to be a lean season.

Dada, it is always good to read you... even the prologue

I've not toured enough in Kashmir... it was just glimpses while going and returning from Ladakh only.

But I'll second param, in skipping stay at Jammu, even though it'll be tiring journey after a long train journey.

Wish you a happy Planning!!!

One more observation I have is as follows. Not sure if all will be with me on this one.
If you book a self car for the entire tour it is better to book one from Srinagar with a kashmiri driver. A jammu car may not be suitable. What I noticed is that people from jammu and kashmir are not particularly friendly towards each other and a jammu driver suffers from insecurity while traveling in kashmir and fears even if there is any slight tension which may be a minor deviation from normalcy.

You are right deepmajumder,

Sometimes they even deny to go for staying there, pick-up and drop are ok for them.

Ashish Sir,

Good suggestions already submitted by fellow IMers & in this respect, I would like to add that ...

on 17/9= Catch Howrah-New Delhi Duronto Exp.
on 18/9= Get down at NDLS @ 6.05 hrs. & catch a flight around 12 noon & reach Srinagar by 2 pm; try Shikara Ride
on 19/9= Srinagar Local Site Seeing
on 20/9= Sonamarg Site Seeing
on 21/9= Gulmarg Site Seeing
on 22/9= Srinagar - Pahalgam
on 23/9= Pahalgam Site Seeing
on 24/9= Pahalgam to Jammu (Start very early) & catch Himgiri by 22.45
on 25/9= Train
on 26/9= Howrah

Expenditure will be a little high but it will reduce two days with almost same itinerary!

As regards Hotels (Budget), I can't help you ...; preciously, I am looking for the same answer ..., may be from you in October!

All the best; Happy Journey & Safe Journey! Make it a memorable one!

Hello sir,

JKSRTC buses are the cheapest option for visiting Sonmarg, Gulmarg and Pahalgaon from Srinagar. The buses are quite comfortable. We could save nearly 4,000. If you are only 2-3 members, you can save, otherwise it is better to hire a cab. Last year, the fare was Rs.220 per head for a round trip to each of these destinations. The buses leave srinagar at 08:00 in the morning and return by 8:00 pm. The JKSRTC is located just next to TRC. We had to book previous day, since it was a peak season. But in September, you can buy the ticket just on the day of travel. Just one flaw - they take longer than a cab. If the cab takes 2 hours, bus may take 2-3 hours. However, there is another advantage of travelling by bus. You will have company, especially since it is a lean season, and you can share a cab in Pahalgaon with your co-passengers. That is another saving.

Venkat

Thanks Venkat! Very practical, useful and relevant tip. One doubt is cleared. Any tip for budget hotel, houseboat?

We stayed in Bloomingdale and the tariff was 1650/day. We could have explored cheaper options, but due to paucity of time, we did not, and also because it was a peak season and we had a comfortable stay at Bloomingdale. However, I did make some enquiries. There are a lot of budget and decent hotels in the area called Rajghat. But it is bit away from Dal Lake. Bloomingdale is located on boulevard road. There are a few budget hotels nearby. I am sure you will get a decent one for 500/day. I remember one hotel by the name HAVENPOSH, just on the way to Bloomingdale. He quoted 800 during June. The area where bloomingdale is located is called Buchwara. Please feel free to PM me if u need any further help.

Venkat

Hello everybody!

Has anyone actually stayed at Noor Guest House at Srinagar? Can I have some feed back on this property in terms of facilities, tariff, location etc.? Thanks.

Hi Asish da,I am very much new in indiamike..I have also plan on 28th Oct to vist jammu kashmir..
I'll catch Purva Exp or duranto(6.40 pm) and will be reaching Delhi at 11am(Duranto)/Purva(7am).
12pm to 6pm Delhi sightseeing...catch uttarsamparkkranti from NDLS at 8.40pm which will reach jammu next day 6.10am.If i want to visit Katra nd Patnitop is it feasible within 10-12 days?
Also,on my return journey to Jammu, should I start from Srinagar or Pahelgaon?
Anyone have any info on Yusmarg or "dudhganga" from Srinagar?
Can we have exclusive car from jammu to Srinagar? What will be the cost?

@ Bappa!

I am yet to visit Kashmir. I am just trying to firm up my kashmir visit plan (ETD Sept 2012). Katra (for Mata Vaishno Devi), Yushmarg or Dudhganga etc. are in my proposed plan. More over, my plan is to go directly to Jammu from Kolkata and alto come back directly from Jammu to Kolkata. Thus, there is hardly any similarity between the plan chalked out by you with that of mine. As you see, presently therefore I am not in a position to reply to any of your quarries. However, you have posted your quarries in an open forum and it is likely some one knowledgeable would respond and you will surely get your doubts cleared.

Ashishda,
I called the owner of Noor Guest House today. He is quoting 1200 per double bed room in October 2012. Kindly give us your feedback. I have seen your post in facebook.

@Asishdas Ji

I hope and wish that you can make it all like you want it to be.

Wish you happy journey.