Kashmir: Indian tourists must dos_ a travellogue

doccardshark

I was privileged to visit the kashmir valley in April 2004
I finally got down to writing my travellogue.
It does make for some tedious reading but hopefully it may help a few.
I did a classical non-adventurous standard holiday package( specially catered for Gujratis!)
but i must confess: i loved every bit of it, and maybe i may add a few treks , off the beaten path itineraries when i visit again, which i promised myself, i shall.
I must recommend the thread posted by Volga Volga on the same, it makes for very interesting reading, and the first hand information is priceless.

21. 04.04
The Jet air flight(s) from Mumbai were very nice. However the counter people had a problem with through check in and wasted a lot of time!
The drop in outside temperatures was remarkable. Delhi =37 Jammu= 27 Srinagar= 17!!!
Wow. A view from in-flight reveals a mass of very green slopes and hillsides, giving one the feel of being in Switzerland. (The peaks had a major cloud cover over them)
After a short halt at a beautiful Vishnu temple at Anantipur, we made our way to Pahalgam (90km). The road (NH1) was very good though with heavy army movement.
Even though we reached Pahalgam at dusk it was simply paradise. The Lidder river is simply enchanting with rapids all the way up.
'Kawah ', a traditional beverage meant to keep one warm, was very invigorating.
The temp is 7 / 15.
The rooms at Hotel Pine & Peak are very nice- the even numbered ones are river facing and one can actually here the sound of the river if one has the guts to leave the windows open and bear the brunt of the cold.
22.04.04
By morning the clouds had lifted we had a good view of snow capped mountains. The sunrise over the snow caps was enchanting especially since it had been overcast earlier.
Today we went to Chandanwari 9500ft- that was start point of 32KM trek to Amarnath. The route along the Lidder river was most scenic; said one traveller “equivalent to Alaska minus the infrastructure.” On the way we took photos of Betaab (remember Sunny Deol and Amrita Singh) valley. A great photo-stop. We walked on a glacier bridge over the valley. We climbed about 500' on the glacier and then bob sled down… with the help of several local Kashmiris. We paid approximately 500 Rs. Per ride . entirely worth it I thought.
23.04.04
A great crisp and clear morning met us, which encouraged the most lazy among us to go for a brisk though chilling morning walk. Thereafter we went onto Aru, about 30kms away by car. It was very picturesque walking in the Alpine meadows there, and I found it to be one of the most beautiful places that i have ever visited- it had a superb walk (one has the option of hiring ponies too)
Then after returning to hotel we started our journey to Gulmarg. 180 Km After a quick tea stop at Tanmarg (allegedly sensitive area) we reached Gulmarg at a ht. Of 8500- 8750 ft. home to the highest golf course in the world! And the pretty Shankar temple so uniquely situated.
So clean neat and pretty. No inkling of being in India. There are signs which state that plastic bags are banned here (thank heavens). Just a photo out of the Alps with sunshine peaks in the background.
We were upgraded to a suite at the beautiful and traditionally British Highland Park hotel. It has a most beautiful setting and rooms to die for. Of course the personalised butler service helps too.
Since it had rained towards the evening it was quite cold (15/ 3). Sunrise is at about 5am with the peaks lighting up one by one, whereas sunset is at about 730pm. In peak summer the days must be longer.
24.04.04
The weather cleared to a beautiful crisp morn.
Flowers had just begun to blossom - we were told another 15-2odays to full bloom. That’s why its called Gulmarg (gul=urdu for flowers, marg= valley/destination)
After breakfast- we took the Gondola- a cable car from 8750’ to Kondori at 10050’. From here we had about- 1.15' trek to the base of a glacier on the Aparbat mountain (13500’). Of course one can also take ponies upto the glacier. Behind this peak only one ridge to POK(Pakistan occupied Kashmir). 35km walk but only about 5km as the crow flies.
We then negotiated with some ever insistent locals to drag bob-sleds up with us. I think we must have climbed to 12000’ which was above the tree line along the glacier. We reached a virgin patch of deep and shining snow!!!. I had a cigarette to celebrate my effort!
A word of caution. In the snow cover your nose and forehead. I got a major dose of UV radiation and suffered sun burn for over a week.
We had a gr8 ride down on our sleds sitting behind a local Kashmiri. (Rs 600)
We could see the entire Kashmir valley, Baramulla & Srinagar, Nanga Parbat (in Pakistan over 20000’) and Khillannarg far below. Stretched out was the splendour of the entire Himalayas.
We had left at 1030am & were back by about 2pm. Lunch was followed by a relaxing massage (300)!!! We found a very pretty card room in our hotel and we were able to arrange a bridge foursome! My joy knew no boundaries. For dinner we had ghostaba a Kashmiri delicacy (Mutton marinated over- night).
25.04 .04
We just relaxed in the solarium, relaxed played some table-tennis and had a lazy lunch.
The people here are very nice though poor. Nobody stays locally, its only related to tourism. We saw sheperd huts which had turf roofs. Tipping is the rule.
No tension here apparantly even though this is an alleged entry point for militants -- they fortunately cross over on either side of Gulmarg plateau.
We went on a circular drive around Gulmarg and saw some of the local sights, but that is something I hardly recommend. And one apparently needs some government permit to do so.
In the evening we had a 5O Km drive to Srinagar and onto the “New California house boat”
These boats are very interesting, I don’t think they were ever made for travelling on water, they are just sort of moored at one spot. Something to do with ancient laws of ownership in the Kashmir valley! They have lot of deodar wood work and very spacious and comfortable, and come with your own cook and helper. I strongly recommend staying in one of these. They come in all shapes and sizes. In the evening we hada romantic Shikara ride around Dal lake.. superb. The Shikara is a small rowboat and is the principal means of getting around the lake. It was very scenic and relaxing. Temperatures dropped quickly from 25C to 10C once the sun set. Some one explained to us that the Dal lake was 5x7 km , with 80% of it being organic, which includes the making of artificial islands in it, and a principal source of farming etc, a processi couldn’t quite fathom.
There was a major storm at night which really brought the temperatures down. I was told it was un-seasonal, but then the rough waters made the house boat bob around a lot which did slightly give one the impression of being on high seas.
27. 04.04
Srinagar Sightseeing:
“First the Shankar acharya temple at a height of 850' above the citywhich afforded a beautiful panoramic view of the city. A flight of 250 stairs, but one cant take video or leather or bags. The Shalimar gardens were closed, but we did see the Nigat and Chashme Shahi (nice spring) The flowers had just begun to bloom , I was told the true amazing blossoms would appear about 15-20 days later.
Back at the house-boat we had a most amazing meal. A Shikara came upto our houseboat, moored along-side and served us the most amazing kababs and roti with special Muslim chutneys. We hogged them down, sitting on the porch.
28/04/04
Day trip to Sonmarg.
Sonmarg (2653 mt) is a beautiful hi-altitude meadow, situated 85 km from Srinagar (3 hrs) on NH1A, ie on the way to Kargil and Leh. Son= golden, and apparently after May this is a golden valley!
It was the last point that tourists were allowed and also the last meadow, beyond it the road opens only I think in may end, via the Zoji-La and turns into a trans-Himalayan desert.
There was a strong military presence as one would expect. We drove up the Scenic Sind river valley. It was reminiscent of the Kali Gandaki trek in the Annapurna Nepal, but probably more pretty because of the plethora of green and the closer snow caps.
The Sonmarg valley seemed like a combination of Pahalgam and Gulmarg, what was beautiful was the circular snow caps with a river running down the centre.
We had a nice short trek up a green hill and were surprised by an army jawan who popped out of a bunker! He told us that walking in the hills wasn’t quite permitted, stick to the tourist routes only! He didnt allow us to photograph, unfortunately, as the army bunkers were situated nearby. Of course one can take ponies that trod along to the glacier nearby.
A short descent took us to the river-banks. After a dip in the river, we were warmed by some lovely vodka shots! (One has to carry ones own alcohol, not available easily in the market or country side)
By the time we were back it was night.
29/04/04
We woke up to a heavy downpour and cold morning. So I was sunburnt and freezing all at the same time.
The check-in at the airport is a complicated process, u have to do so at least 2 hours before departure. There were 3 security checks, and one had to get off the bus at least twice, and be subjected to major luggage and body searches.
But if all these security measures make Kashmir a safer and more accessible place, so be it!

My entire trip cost us Rs 15,000 per head, which included all meals and transport, other than my airfare, and we did pretty much stay in the best of hotels/ house boats.

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kashyap_rajput

very informative... I am planning to visit kashmir in July month, you posted great pictures...

Kashyap

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Swarovski Annual Christmas Ornament 2007