A trip to Heaven on Earth.

radz

Hi Somnath
Very well written.Thanks for sharing.

Cheers
Radz

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sudheer poppa

Great read... I was always sure you were having a blast, when many of our fellow IM'rs were worried about your safety...

Someday I will be there..

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When my life changed over a week

somnath

Radz and Sudheer, thanks for reading. Now I am able to steal some more time and here is the result:

18/10/05 – Time has come to leave Srinagar. Now I am really disappointed, Srinagar is incomplete . Not able to visit the Old city area, not able to try any item of Wazan at ‘Mughal Darbar’, the taste of Kahwa is still unknown and we are going to Pahelgam. Today I fought for a couple of hours from the organizers and rushed to Lalchak at morning. Now I am able to see the Srinagar of local people. It is a state where the major religion is Islam but ‘burqa’ is not common here. I’ve seen maximum 4 or 5 in burqa since last 3-4 days at Srinagar. Girls in salwar, usually cover their head with the dupatta. Not seen a single woman working in any big shop. Here you will find the difference with another Himalayan state – Sikkim. Go to any tiny habitation in Sikkim you will feel it’s the women who are running their society but in a big city like Srinagar I’ve seen some feamale shopkeepers in the fish market at Dalgaet only (and in some tea stalls too).
The security arrangement at Secretariat and Assembly is just like a fort. Doesn’t look good to a traveler. Apples are cheap like anything here. Tiny green type apple – Rs. 5 per KG and big red one is Rs. 10 per KG. Walnut – varies, starts from 60 and available upto 100 per KG.
I must say something about Pashmina shawl now. So-called Pashmina is available in 200 also at touristy areas. I’ll advice you to stick to Govt. emporiums / undertaking shops for the quality product. When I asked for a shawl one of the employees at Govt. Emporium laughed and asked “Pashmina”? And one blank sheet of a thin lightweight piece of shawl-ish cloth came out with a price tag of Rs. 9000.00 only. Same quality with some border stitches at four corners – 15,000/-
There is a term – ‘Semi Pashmina’, not the premium quality hence economical but reasonably good. Kashmiri stitch work is really great!!!! can try to collect some wooden art work, made from walnut wood with astonishing crafts.

Back to hotel. Lets start for Pahelgam (6988 ft) which is 95 Km away from Srinagar. In the periphery of the city we have seen a huge gathering of army and some media cars. Driver told us that it must be an attack of terrorists and pressed the accelerator to leave the area as soon as possible. In evening we came to know that some minister is shot dead and a terrorist is also shot down in counter attack at Srinagar. It took 3.5 hrs. to see the board “Welcome to Lidder valley” including lunch break and all.
Pahelgam is basically a village of the shepherd but now it is the base camp for Amarnath yatra. Pilgrims prefer to use this rout as the entry point and return from Sonamarg (via Baltal).
We have our booking at Shepherd's Hotel beside the Lidder River. There is a big lush green lawn with some apple trees and the facility is just perfect. ‘Hotel Pahelgam’ is another recommended hotel and ‘Volga’ for its food.
Fishing in Lidder, horse ride, trekking, Golf are among the activities if you are planning for longer staying.
There is a golf course in Pahelgam club, an amusement park, some beautiful places, famous for shooting some popular Hindi films, couple of temples etc. In Short, Pahelgam is one of the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen .

2-3 days staying is a must. We went to one of the oldest temples of the valley.
It was cold at night. Sound is coming from Lidder and I can remember those nights in tent in Sikkim Himalaya.

PRIYA

Absolutely brilliant Somnath - written with an enthusiasm that's infectious!!!And to think we were all worried about you - with the exception of Sudheer

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torryquine

Really enjoying your posts Somnath, it feels like we're taking that trip with you.

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somnath

I must upload the pix.
Wish someday we, IM members will be able to go in a group!!!! It will be a dream tour isn’t it?

19/10/05 – Spend the morning by Lidder and started for Patnitop This is the last chance to purchase if anything is left. The same group is always polite if you are talking about shopping. “Wait a minute, what did you say? This is the last chance? But so many things are left, need to go to the market at least once more. I am not purchasing Apples here OK? We can get it from Jammu also. Bye”. One kid is crying for another cricket bat, who cares, her mom has to go to market because she brought nothing for the neighbor of her cousin sister’s mother-in-law as a token of gift from Kashmir. Another discussion is still going on lawn, “maroon base is good but that yellowish cream one was even better. What do you think should I change it? Come on tell me I must rush to the shop right now”.
At last, it is all over. Everybody in? Start. It is 12 noon now.

Reached Patnitop but it is dark. We are going to spend this night in Dogra Residency.

20/10/05 – Patnitop (6640 ft) is a one of the best hill station in Jammu. Green everywhere, giant trees of pine and some chinar and lots of birds. Those who know Kalimpong in West Bengal, can understand Patnitop. Calm and quiet hill station to recap what we have been experiencing since last 2 weeks before we land to practical world. This is the worst part of traveling – countdown.
Jammu is 110 KM from here and it will take approx 3.5 hrs to reach. Our train (Jammutawi Exp) will depart at 6.45 pm so we started at 11.30.
Stopped at Maharaja Hari Singh’s palace at Jammu. A nice piece of architecture now turned into a heritage hotel. Ground floor is being used as a museum, ticket Rs.10. Next stop at Jammu railway station. Tour comes to an end. This is the time to think was it a reality? Is that shikara ride, snowman in Gulmarg, horseman at Sonamarg a dream? No look at those poor husbands. They do not like to carry a single file in their office, asks for assistance from Group D staffs but now taking all the pain to carry apple, walnut, shawls, sweaters, jackets, cricket bats in a smiling face (wife is watching ) with fire on eyes.

21/10/05 – Whole day in the train.

22/10/05 – 10.15 pm, Home sweet home .

Thank you all for taking pain to read the post.
- Somnath

PRIYA

Sorry, but I just couldn't resist.............<giggle> <giggle>

This will be my weekend entertainment - I've copied and printed your whole story!!!!

Judi

Brilliant Somnath ...... you made me feel as if I was on the tour with you
For a short period I [i]was[i] a Tour Guide (in Europe) ...... give them lots of pity, they're only human, too!

Thanks for sharing your adventures with us. Have a great weekend.

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It is better to light a candle than complain about the darkness.

TREKorDIE

thanks for sharing your trip with us. where are the pics buddy?

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TREKorDIE:
" BECAUSE IT IS THERE ! ! ! "

somnath

Thank you, friends . The pix uploaded now:

http://www.indiamike.com/photopost/s...00/ppuser/4434

And a few more to come.

The quality is reduced due to scanning and resizing but these may give an idea of beautiful Kashmir. Technical detail is not given in the photographs:
Camera – Nikon F65,
Lens – Nikkon 28-100 Gtype,
Filters – Marumi Skylight Filter / Polarizer.
Film – Fuji.

- Somnath

TREKorDIE

Nice pics man.
I loved this one most

somnath

Thanks .
The view was great indeed but the wall where the camera was placed has covered some area in the pic. Wish I could compose it better.

- Somnath

Rob_The_Pom

That was great reading, thanks Somnath.
I must admit I have a real hankering to visit Sonamarg and Pahelgam now!

Cheers

Rob

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somnath

Hi Rob,
Thanks . Kashmir is safe for the tourists. You can plan for the trip. Sonamarg (
http://www.indiamike.com/photopost/s...php?photo=9354) and Phelgam is GREAT!!!! Let the Pahelgam pix come I'll post it.

Thanks,
Somnath

torryquine

I've been enjoying your pictures Somnath - looks like it was quite chilly up there! Let's hope enough supplies get through to help people out over the winter.