A trip to Heaven on Earth.

somnath

I am trying to share my experience with you all. I love to discuss about our experience during gatherings but never in writing. I use a film camera not a digital one so it will take time to get those scanned and uploaded. You may find it not so interesting even a bit boring but here it is:

09/10/05 Kolkata > train to Amritsar
10/10/05 Amritsar
11/10/05 Amritsar
12/10/05 Amritsar > Katra
13/10/05 Katra
14/10/05 Katra > Srinagar
15/10/05 Srinagar
16/10/05 Srinagar > Gulmarg > Srinagar
17/10/05 Srinagar > Sonamarg > Srinagar
18/10/05 Srinagar > Pahelgam
19/10/05 Pahelgam > Patnitop
20/10/05 Patnitop > Jammu (Train for Kolkata.)
21/10/05 Train
22/10/05 Back to Kolkata.


09/10/05 – Akaltakht Express. I knew that it will be a big group and most of them are unknown to me. But I didn’t have the idea how big it is. It was a group of 40 and 3 kitchen staff, total 43 (my God!!!!). This is the first time in my life when I am traveling with such a big group. One thing was just clear that there is no other way except accepting the democratic chaos of preferences. Lets hope for the best (mentally prepared for the worst). Journey starts. I have more than 24 hrs to mix-up with the crowed. Must work hard to make it ‘our’ team.

10/10/05 – Amritsar, train was late and reached at 9.30 pm., left the luggage at Hotel and took bath, a cup of tea in the speed of light and rushed to Golden Temple to experience the glitter at night. Entered the area and seen the Grantha Sahib is being taken to Akaltakht (the place where the swords of Shikh gurus are preseved) in the same campus. Lots of people were there; most of them are local people. Then I heard the bad news; temple is closed for the day and guards are not ready to allow anymore visitor inside the main temple. Then I used my Golden rule – “ Bhaisab, I’ll have to catch the train tomorrow morning, thought I’ll be able to visit the temple tonight.”. “Ok OK, go and come back soon. Right?” – “thank you thank you”. (No, I am not ready to apologize for this harmless cheating. This is geat!!!! The main temple is decorated by 400 KG of pure gold over the copper plating. It is an unusual timing for the common visitors. Maintance work and washing - cleaning was going on. Look at the folks what they are doing; they are not using brooms to make the floor dust free. Men using their hands and women are proud to use their dupatta to keep the divine place clean. I came to know that the community considers this service as an offering. It is good to see that a very reach man of the town and an economically week person are cleaning the same step of the temple using the same tool – their palm. Photography is prohibited there but cameras on mobile phones are doing magic. Halwa is being distributed and the taste is very good.
Returned to hotel after having a big ‘Kulfi’ at roadside. Everyone visiting Amritsar are requested not to miss the milk based foodstuffs like Lassi, Dahi, Kulfi etc.

11/10/05 – Today I have experienced the ugly side of the democracy. “Ohhhh…… this is Amritsar, woolen dresses are very cheap here. I must buy something for my relatives as a token of gift” – someone left for shopping in the morning itself. rest of the guys are waiting for them as we are going to visit Durgiyana temple, Jalianwallah Bag and other attractions including Golden Temple once again. Here she is back from the market, lets start. Everybody is there? No, Mr. Chatterjee is not there, he went to have a cup of tea. Wait for him…………

At last, we are able to start. Auto rickshaws are there for this city tour. Asked Rs. 400 but we managed it for 250. There are 10 seats in one rickshaw, hence Rs. 25 per person.

After a short break during post lunch session went to Wagha Border to see the retreat ceremony. At around 5.30 pm BSF jawans from India and Pakisthan army opens the border to bring back the national flag of the country and declares the border is closed for the day. Movie camera is not allowed there and you need to pass through the stringent checking to see the pillars between to countries and join the crowed to see the parade.
Again auto rickshaw is available and asks about 40 per person to reach there and some local bus service is also there. Came back to the hotel took evening tea and everyone is free to go for marketing or just walking. But a sudden rainfall was enough to bring the force back to the base camp. Tomorrow morning we will start for Katra.

12/10/05 and 13/1005 – Again late start. Today it will be a journey of almost 300 KM. Jammu is 243 KM from Amrtsar and Katra is 48 KM away from Jammu. Now, this is the advantage of a big group. We had fun during this long journey, never felt bore. Someone is always there to make you attentive. In spite of that if someone is able to take a short nap our junior-most brigade of 7 kids was efficient enough to make his life hell.

You will feel strange is it a war zone? Soldiers (army, CRPF etc) are standing in every 100 mtr. Frequent movement of army trucks with heavy machinegun on top and be prepared for checking after every 10 KM. We stopped over on the way for a break and after a few moments I noticed something is there on the upper side of the hill and behind the tree. A close look confirmed soldiers are watching us. One of them came down to us and enquired, when he is convinced and came to know that we are from Calcutta he started speaking in Bengali. Yes, he is from West Bengal and posted at Jammu since last 2 yrs. Hats off to you my friend.

Reached Katra at around 7.00 PM. Everyone who wanted to visit Vaishnodevi, situated on 5200 ft, took their meal and last puff of cigarette or last dosage of tobacco (these things are not allowed up to the temple) with the due respect to next 13 KM trek on hills. At 9.00 PM, “Jai Mata Di” – journey begins. Let me give you some tips to avoid harassments, please obey the rules. Don’t carry tobacco or the same because the Indian army is deployed there to help us and believe me they are smart enough to dig out the hidden piece of ‘Bidi’ under your cap. Don’t keep anything just anything except hanky and money in your pocket. Camera allowed (not inside the main building). Road is well maintained. Sometimes covered, rest huts and toilets are there; Kalashnikov is ready to protect you (though gives a different feeling, but OK), stalls, STD booths, horses, dandies will make you feel like a market like experience. If you are habituated in hilly roads this 13 KM is nothing. But the oldest member of our team was 67 yrs old, my maternal uncle who is a enthusiast man but walking on hills for the first time. But he did a great job; we reached at the temple around 3.30 or 4.00 am. Went in to temple after another series of checking (worst this time). Forced to scarify a pack of cold cream, pocket comb. Hope someone from Mataji’s brigade enjoys belts, combs, candy etc.
Returned to hotel at 11 am and time to bath, lunch rest and roaming. Marketing division is charged up in the market and started purchasing whatever is selling. God knows why they are spending so much energy and money for traveling? Are they thinking that they have come to just another market in J&K, situated 2000 KM away from hometown?

14/10/05 – Wake up; make it fast; bus will start right now. We are going to the main attraction, the dream destination of thousands of travelers across the globe – Srinagar. Katra to Srinagar is 255 KM and according to my calculation it will take more than 10 hrs (as we are traveling by a bus). We are unable to start before 8.45 am.

Took break for tea and lunch and several times for checking on the way. Crossed Jawhar tunnel, which is unique. And after a few moments the vast plain land of the valley became visible at down. It is stunning. Very tough to believe that it is possible to see such a vast agricultural plain land after these huge mountains. It is only the shape of the trees which is different else it is impossible to distinguish this area with agricultural belt of West Bengal / Bihar / UP or Punjab. Amazing!!!! At 8.00 pm we reached Srinagar. It is like a dead town then. This is the Ramjan, month of fasting. Market is almost closed for the day but Dalgate is still alive. Army/ Police car is roaming and some tourists are also there in the street. I am surprised to hear that 99% of the tourists are speaking in Bengali. All of them are utilizing the holidays for Durgapuja. We have our booking at the New Shalimar Hotel, situated on other side of the lake. Just look at the lake lights are coming from the houseboats and the reflection is doing the miracle!!!! Sparkling Dal is saying, “Welcome”. Unforgettable view.

Stealing time from office hours so it will take some time to post the next part.

shanthi

Thanks for sharing with us Somnath, or should I say, Prince Somnath now( ) !!!

Judi

That was great, Somnath - I can hardly wait for the next installment!

It's sooooo good to read your posts again

__________________
It is better to light a candle than complain about the darkness.

somnath

No no no….. then lizzydee may start with Frog Somnath . Please don’t do it.
I am glad to know that you like it. I’ll definitely post the next part. Thank you.

- Somnath

natasha chanda acharya

Hey, Somnath, Excellent! Excellent!
I can only imagine the nightmare of travelling with so many people.
It sounds humorous later, but while you are on the trip, it can be trying.
I am a lone traveller for the very reason
that I loose my patience with people very fast.
As I always say, I get along with anyone who always agrees with me.

But your trip sounds interesting.
waiting for the rest of the story...

torryquine

Excelent Somnath - waiting for the next installment now

Would love to see the retreat ceremony at the border and Amritsar

__________________
http://werenotafraid.com/

Hyderabadi

Welcome back Somnath! Well written! Specially like the:
!
Look forward to the next installment..

Bigzero

Excellent report Somnath, and welcome back! Some of us in the group where getting a little worried
Has anyone heard from SOMNATH??

Glad to have you back friend. Look forward to reading the next part of your report.

__________________
miles to go....

Bigzero's Photo Gallery

TREKorDIE

Congrats somnath

..........Oh no.........your post ended suddenly like those thriller serials on TV ...............keeping us eagerly waiting for the next episode

__________________
TREKorDIE:
" BECAUSE IT IS THERE ! ! ! "

somnath

ha ha ha…… I tried to become one of them first and then it was not so difficult. Even adopting such textbook method, cant say that I’ve explored maximum but experienced fun of different type in a big group. I also love those people who always agree with me but thanks to my ex-sales manager who advised to agree with the other person first, “if required try to compromise and make him feel you are always agree with him, then it is your show” - worked .
Yes, this is interesting. Sometimes the question will arise that is so much gallery show is really required? But after the ceremony I felt its OK. I brought a CD from there (as video cam is prohibited there) I’ll try to share those clippings with you all.
Hi Shekhar it was chaos indeed. And if you are trying to understand their points you will find everyone in the group is right . Then why we were always late? That’s a mystery .
My God!!!! I missed this thread, Thank you BigZ’ee for pointing. And thank you ALL once again.
Thanks buddy (are you sure it is like a thriller not a dramatic family drama like sas-baho ki jhagra and all, ha ha ha….).

Friends, I’ll love to share my experience with you and I am equally egger to do it. I’ll post it as soon as possible.

- Somnath

Hyderabadi

It just reminded me of India!

somnath

15/10/05 – Bed tea at 7.00 am. Surprised? Let me tell you I was alone in my bed, there was no delay due to preferences of the crowed . But sorry yesterday’s 12 hrs bus journey took its toll. A bit cloudy morning today. Heavy breakfast and lazy start of a huge team of 40 people caused again late but I thought it is not too late for the local trip. This the first time in my life I am in a Shikara . Can’t believe it. I’ve seen so many pix, videos and it was a dream to experience a Shikara ride on Dal. Lots of saffron sellers, and vendors selling ornaments, shawls even photographers with Kashmiri dresses are trying to convince that without these Kashmir trip will remain incomplete. We are tired to say no but as I said some enthusiasts in our group never give up. So they did some business. After a round we went to Golden Lake. And the Shikara man, Basir told me that this is the place where luxurious houseboats are floating. In the evening water of this portion glows like the Gold (reflection of lights from those houseboats) hence it is called the ‘Golden Lake’. I thought I must take another ride at night and Basir said Shikara is available till 9 pm. Then it was my request to enter into the area where we will be able to see the day-to-day activities of local people. And no wonder, my co-passengers are not ready to do it. “No no Somnath, please finish it off, we must purchase some apples and walnuts and some cloths. Due to you guys my shopping is pending till date.” Unbelievable!!!! Trust me friends, I’ve seen her with 3 huge bags at Shialdah station but now her husband is spending sleepless night as he is the man responsible to carry 5 (till now) and a few more to come in next few days. Finally, she is convinced because I told her that the ‘real’ market is one where local ladies use to go for shopping and you will get better stuff in a reasonable price . We entered in the area. Amazing !!!! Life is floating on water. Kids are returning from school, housewife is purchasing meat from the shop, vegetables are sold everything is like average but the only and the main difference is ALL in their boats. It is common in every city that 4/5 guys on motorbike / bicycle are gathered, dressed nicely and their latest mobile phone in hand waiting on the way to girls school / collage. Ditto here but the bike is missing, they are on the boat. I will never forget this part of the tour. We have seen the floating garden - agricultural land full of spinach and other vegetables. Basir said “this is floating, so next week you may find this garden shifted.”. Now I am in big trouble, I must visit a shop full of woolen dresses and all. “Basir can you help me”? “yes dada, there are so many shops which is floating”. And he turned the Shikara towards it. Surprise, surprise!!!! A very big shop – ‘Shahjee Handlooms’ and some other shops are floating beside the bunch of lotus on the canal. Sometimes it is difficult to believe that it is possible at Srinagar, 5675 ft from sea level.
Returned to the hotel for lunch. The owner of the hotel Khooru Noor Mohammed is a very reach man but neither he nor his son Imtiaz is ready to provide any useful info to us. Because we are not accepting his offer of different packages. Went to visit some great mughal gardens like Chashmeshahi, Shalimar bagh, Nishat etc. this is not the time for the flowers but the glimpse helped us to imagine the divine beauty of these gardens during May / Jun. One more thing that should be mentioned, the majestic Chinar trees. Awesome existence, massive in size. Everywhere in Kashmir. the color of the leaf is changing and says winter is coming.
If someone interested to photograph the magical sunset at Dallake, please keep Nishat garden in your list at afternoon. This is situated at east side of the lake and the view, keeping Shankarachariya hill on the background is superb from here.
We are running late and could not make it to Shankarachariya temple on the hill but went to Hazratbal mosque at evening. It is said that a piece of hair of Hazrat Mohammed is secured here. One of the moulavis came to have a chat with us and he confirmed that it is true and a balcony is shown where someone comes to show the holy box in hand during some special time of the year. Women are allowed to a certain place, beyond that it the men’s world. Photography is prohibited inside.
While returning to Dalgate I tried to get down to experience the nightlife on Dal but…….. “Come on, don’t be a fool. This is Kashmir you know? Nobody is allowed in this group to travel alone at night. Is that clear to you”? Yeah, it is clear to me but where are those guys who basically warned me not to forget to call them before Shikara ride at night?

After visiting the city area it is clear to me that everybody wants to show that Tourists are absolutely safe in Srinagar. And it is true one can easily come to Kashmir. But something is missing. What’s that? Confidence? Or the willingness to boost up the tourism in Kashmir valley? Apparently peaceful town but army trucks, movement of yellow maruti gypsys of ‘flying Squad’ will make you feel the suppressed tension. The growth rate in numbers of tourist is high but huge infrastructural improvement is still required to encourage tourism as an industry.
Visited some shops at Dalgate area and expressed my interest to visit the Lalchak area, which is the main market and hub of Govt. offices at Srinagar but discouraged by the local people as it is not a safe place specially at night because it is a soft target area of the extremists. Forced to return at hotel. Sky is cloudy till now, lets pray rain shouldn’t come else our Gulmarg visit will be affected tomorrow.

natasha chanda acharya

Really good reading. You have been able to paint a picture of these places. It comes alive and I can imagine myself being there.

Am i mistaken or is it one particular "boudi" that you are really bugged with. Poor woman. Must understand her point of view. she will probably never go back there. so she must make the most of her one time visit to paradise.

I was similarly thrilled with water life in kerela. Went to Allepy backwaters. Same thing. People step out of their homes, get on the boat to shop for vegetables in the market, which happens to be another boat floating around th place, or to post a letter in the post office, or so many other mundane daily chores that we would normally do on land. It is totally fascinating.

My friend just came back from a trip to Italy and Rome and Paris and all. I have to tell you, I have fallen in love with Venice. It is soooo romantic. I have decided it's going to be the next place on my "big trip" list.

Waiting for your Gulmarg part.

torryquine

It's funny Natasha, Somnath's descriptions also made me think of Venice - that 'life on the water' - absolutely fasciating to watch the vegetable sellers, the plumbers, the police and everyone working from their boats!

Do go, it's one of the most beautiful cities in the world and absolutely unique. But I recommend going in winter when it is quiet - it can be very cold but you can enjoy getting lost in the tiny streets without squeezing through the crowds.

somnath

Natasha, you are right. I am agree with you that’s why I said in my earlier post “……if you are trying to understand their points you will find everyone in the group is right .”
I can understand your point too, ‘boudi’ is getting your vote, it is a mater of shopping after all!!!!
If I can get my pix scanned and ready for uploading, I’ll post the links according to the description.

TQ and Natasha, I think only difference between Venice and this 'life on the water' at Srinagar, it is situated at an altitude of 5675 ft. !!!! Existence of such huge water bodies and network of canals is a big surprise itself. Anyway, here is the next part:

16/10/05 – We are going to Gulmarg, which is 56 KM away from Srinagar. Rain started at 8.00 pm and temperature is dropped. It is a very cold day even in the month of October. I think we will be able see some snow at least at Khilanmarg. Gulmarg has the highest green golf course in the world at an altitude of 8694 ft and famous for ski in winter. An old horseman told me that earlier this place was known as ‘Gaurimarg’ . According to the search result on net I came to know that:
Originally called ‘Gaurimarg’ by shepherds, its present name was given in the 16th century by Sultan Yusuf Shah, who was inspired by the sight of its grassy slopes emblazoned with wild flowers. Gulmarg was a favourite haunt of Emperor Jehangir who once collected 21 different varieties of flowers from here.

As soon as our buss stopped guides, horsemen and vendors with jackets and shoes on hire just made our life miserable. Cant blame, this is the end of tourist season and everyone of them trying to earn a few rupees more for the forthcoming winter. There is a ropeway service to enjoy the beauty of further uphill. The second highest gondola in the world. There are two stages one is up to Kongdoori valley one restaurant is there at 10500 ft and it takes Rs. 200 per person. And Rs. 500 for the next stage of Gondola.

If anyone interested for skiing / snowboarding in winter can have a look here:
http://www.skihimalaya.com/site/gulm...n/gondola.html

Local guys informed that they felt a tremor (after shock) in Gulmarg just 10 min back but honestly speaking, we didn’t feel anything . Someone told – “you are lucky, today we are experiencing the first snowfall of the year”. And he is right !!!! We could see that the hill is covered by snow. Without wasting time went to purchase the ticket and came to know the second phase of Gondola is closed due to heavy snowfall. The first stage was enough to see the snowfall. Everything is white and visibility is very poor. Spend over an hour there, took some photographs. I must mention that our youngest brigade of kids performed their best in snow. ALL of them gone just wild. Ohhhh… that’s a wonderful sight!!!!

No one is ready to come back, not even a serious promise for ice-cream is able to do the magic . “Hey we are jumping on ice-creams, its everywhere. You can’t make us fool anymore”. Anyway, its their parents who took the leading role to continue the show when kids are back. Poor chaps, with wet jackets, damp shocks and running nose.
Returned to hotel after coffee and Shik Kebabs.

17/10/05 – Now I am favorite to the kids . Its Somnath uncle who helped them to spend maximum time in snow, his moral support was always there to throw snowballs (on parents to take revenge ). “Are you sure uncle there will be more snow ?” Today you will not even stepout if a single drop of snow is there , the angry mom.

We are going to Sonamarg - The Meadow of Gold (often called Sonmarg), 98 KM drive through the Sindh Valley. Situated at an altitude of 8956 ft. On the way it is clear that winter is approaching. Straws, dry branches are piled up on the trees. It is clear that the villagers expecting 5ft+ ice so they are keeping their fuel safe. Sonamarg is a big base of Shikh battalion mainly involved to protect the journey to the holy cave of Amarnath. Sonamarg is on Srinagar – Leh highway across the Zojila, another important feature of the area. It is a bright sunny day, crystal clear sky and Thaijwas glacier is looking great from Sonamarg!!! Scenic beauty is just heavenly.
If I am able to come back once again, I promise, I’ll stay back for at least one day here.

Introduced to Mr. S N Kapoor, an officer of the battalion. He is posted along with the team since last three years and informed us with great satisfaction that his team will report to Calcutta in coming December . AK ammunition, bunkers machinegun post has become a part of our life till now. Now these are not distorting. As usual, Tourist Information Center is closed. Anyway time to go back to the hotel. Goodbye Thaijwas.