Ranthambhore report

MrsC_772

I saw tigers on 2 out of 3 safaris at Ranthambhore this week.

Even before my safaris, I saw 2 leopards while returning from Ranthambhore Fort the first evening: one, a big-cat shaped silhouette sitting under a tree on a cliff-top, looking down on us; the other, its unmistakeable spotted coat clearly visible even through the dusk as it crossed the road behind us, heading behind a wall and disappearing into the jungle. I was delighted, given the shyness of leopards, to see not one, but 2 (especially as the leopard was the one of the big 5 I hadn't see in South Africa).

The next morning - jeep safari on route 1. (The vehicles are allocated by lot to 1 of 5 routes through the park). Deer, birds, monkeys, but no tiger. If the other passengers in the jeep had been quieter, maybe we'd have had more luck. Route 1 - not good for tigers, but good for bathroom breaks (some brush screens have been set up half-way round, for privacy when nature calls).

That afternoon - jeep safari on route 3 (the route on which a Swiss couple at my hotel had seen 4 tigers on each of 2 trips). 6 or 7 sightings of 3 different tigers (3 sisters, 18 months old), and close enough to get good pictures even with my small camera. One of them went down to the lake for a drink, waded across to the island, and then returned, passing quite close by the vehicle. We also saw deer, antelope, lots of birds, wild boar, huge crocodiles and mongooses (which seem to come in pairs).

The next afternoon - canter safari route 2. Several tiger sightings. The first sitting on a hillside 60 m away, grinning at us through the trees, before swaggering slowly towards some deer. Its white whiskers (clearly visible through my binoculars) reminding me of Rajasthani men's moustaches. Next, a pair, lying next to each other in the sun, heading off through the jungle and down to the lake for a drink.

The best was saved for last - we turned a corner, and there was a tiger (named Machli, for fish-shaped markings on her coat) sitting in the road ahead of us. The guide was desperately trying to shush us (given the sharp intakes of breath, "Oh my gods" and "wows" from the excited passengers). She ambled slowly down to the soupy green pool to our right, for a drink, lapping up the water just like my pet cats drinking from their bowl at home.

As for jeeps vs canters - you'll get just as good a view from the canter: jeeps & canters all go down the same routes. You may even spend longer in one place when a tiger is spotted (so binoculars can be passed around the passengers for a better view) in a canter. Downsides - you'll be in it longer due to the larger number of hotel pick-ups and drop-offs. Probably more persistence from T-shirt, poster & hat hawkers at park entrance. More passengers = greater chance of noisy passengers. If you're on the front seat, you'll be crammed in (I had the gear stick right against my leg, the woman next to me was sitting over the gap between 2 seats, and her husband was hanging grimly onto the door, trying not to fall out (it flew open at one point).

I may simply have been very lucky (the hotel driver said some guests didn't see a tiger until their 6th safari).

PS - thanks to Tom & Cynthia from London and Doug & Kathie from Orange County for their entertaining company in the safari vehicles and over dinner at Khem Villas.

Nick-H

Your write-ups are great: keep them coming!

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shahronakm

Nice report. You are indeed lucky to see tigers in 2 out of 3 safaris.

Ronak.

stellap

Yeah!!! very heartwarming - off to ranthambhore a week today. Glad to hear Maachli is alive & well and hasn't gone camera shy

ks_bluechip

Excellent report Mrs C. Thanks!

I remember when we visited Ranthambore a few years ago we were lucky to see a Tiger on the very first safari jeep trip. Others in that jeep trying for the 3rd-4th time were envious of us!...... And what a Sighting it was!

The Tiger (fully aware of the several jeeps following him) was taking a slow, measured, majestic walk along the jeep-trail in front of us. This was going on for 10-15 minutes. Once in a while he would stop and look back to make sure the jeeps had'nt fallen back too far behind him! And stop and scratch a tree by the trail-side ... and caste a baleful look at the hushed-commotion coming from the 5-6 jeeploads of tourists, 50 feet away, unable to supress their excitement!

Even the guides on tour that day admitted, that this was one of the best "live" performance they have seen for a long time in Ranthambore ........ KS

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Baba

I don't want to spoil anyone's plans, but when I was at Ranthambore at the end of last year, the only tiger I saw during three safaris was a short glimpse at a distance of 100 yards. And this only because our guide took the jeep on a detour and almost got into trouble for doing this....

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stellap

it's the luck of the draw, I'll take my chances (and with about 14 safaris over three national parks, hopefully my odds aren't too bad!).

Seeing a tiger is an amazing experience (we saw two last year), but the parks are beautiful places and have plenty to see even if the King doesn't grant an audience.

shahronakm

Which three parks are you visiting ?

Ronak.

stellap

Ranthambhore, Bandhavgarh & Kanha - can't wait

ploink

Nice report!
Visited Ranthambhore in late December, one safari in a canter - and we didn't see tigers. Wasn't really surprised because the news haven't been good.

Almost took pity on the guide. At the beginning of the safari, when the canter slows down, the palpable excitement, hushed voices, an escaped "kya hua", the guide pointing to something, all trying to see, yes, there, up on that tree, in the distance, no, ... YES, it is a ... small owl!
Towards the end of the safari...

Nonetheless, I quite enjoyed the experience, the tranquility of the park, the scenery, the deer, ... It feels good to know that there are still tigers there.

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shahronakm

I will be going to Bandhavgarh in May. Would be anxious to know your experiences. Do post it once you return.

Ronak.

stellap

of course

comet

Lots of people are getting to see tigers this week in Ranthambhore.
I saw 3 yesterday, fantastic sightings right in front of us.
Zone 4 and 5 seem to be the best routes.
Route 2 has very nice scenary but i reckon no chance of spotting a tiger.
I agree on canter versus jeep however the canters seem to just drive and drive to keep everyone happy but in reality you need to park up near a water hole and wait. Its a hunt rather than a safari.
Its very special spotting them though.
Online jeeps are 600Rs to book, these are all booked out in advance. The hotel i was staying at was charging people 1500Rs to get one claiming they could buy cancelled tickets and rebook them. However in reality what appears to be happening is that each safari reserves 3 jeeps for VIPs. Assuming there are no VIPs these go open for general booking when the office opens at 5am. I don't think the hotels are telling people about this, instead indians are going up booking jeeps with fake names and selling them on. I went up early and got a place on a jeep no problem for 566Rs. So one to watch out for if you are going and want a jeep.

flyingpig

Hi Comet,
How does one book a jeep? What is the process? I have been reading the forum and trying to understand it but I'm getting confused. Are there several ways to book a jeep or canters safari? For what I understand is that the tourism of Rathambore controls the booking. And that the tourist get charge more when booked thru the hotel? Correct me if I'm wrong.


thanks

didindia7

You should go to www.rajasthantourism.gov.in to book the seats on a jeep (6 per jeep). Routes are given by a "lotery" (I am not sure to write this word).
It's definitely cheaper than to book by an hotel.