Looking at the landscape

My first post on India Mike, so hello to you all. What a great resource this is, and my thanks to everybody who contributes to it.

Planning my first train journeys in India I would appreciate your expert views on the following related points:

1. Press aticles like this "Top Ten Indian Rail Journeys" - http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/201...ail?intcmp=239 - give the impression that I will enjoy the beautiful landscape when travelling from Bombay to Goa, and from Goa up the Western Ghats. But in his very useful Guide on this website Beach notes that "Like in any other air-conditioned coaches, you can’t enjoy the outside view due to the dark window glass." So, if I want a clear view, should I forgo AC and travel plain Second Class ?

2. If I do travel AC Second Class, can I book a seat by the window or do I have to take whatever is ussed to me (and maybe persuade someone in a window seat to swap places with me) ?

With my thanks in anticipation of your replies, Cassio

Hello Cassio, welcome to Indiamike.

I have converted your shortened URL to the full link. There is no need for shortened URLs here and we like people to be able to see what they are clicking on.

As it happens, the article to which you linked is by an Indiamike member, Monisha

Personally, I prefer the lower classes when travelling by train because of the ease of looking out of the window. In the AC carriages with tinted glass you can feel quite separated from the life and landscape of India.

I'm not sure about requesting window seats when booking but there are members here who are expert on the intricacies of booking Indian train tickets and I'm sure they will be along soon to advise you .

Cassio

All AC classes have fixed glass windows, tinted to a greater or lesser degree. If you want glass free windows you need to book sleeper (SL) or 2S (Second Sitting). 2S is not available on every train but where it is you have the option to request a window seat when booking. There is no guarantee that your request will be granted. If you request (and receive) a side berth in SL class you will have a window seat for day travel although the berths are quite short for sleeping.

In my view the best place to watch the world go by is from the doors. We generally travel 1AC or 2AC (at Madame W's insistence) where there is little competition for the doors. Never found the windows to be that bad that they spoiled the view.

Additional - I read the Guardian article that you mentioned. i don't know all of the trains concerned but would just make a couple of points. The Himalayan Queen on the Kalka - Shimla is a very poor second to the Shivalik Deluxe. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway has not run a through train for nearly 2 years due to severe track damage.

Thank you, JuliaF and Dave W, for your helpful comments. Although they leave me in something of a quandary.

Julia prefers lower classes "because of the ease of looking out of the window. She is backed up not only by Beach but also by the equally useful Man in Seat 61 who comments, in relation to Sleeper class - www.seat61.com/India.htm#classes - that "On the other hand, you get a better view of the countryside than in AC coaches, where the windows are sealed, tinted, and sometimes dirty."

Whereas Dave, who "never found the windows to be that bad that they spoiled the view" in 1A or 2A carriages, recommends the view from the door of those carriages. And supporting him is Monisha, author of the "Top Ten Indian Rail Journeys" who writes on her blog (thanks for the link, Julia) that "Hanging out of train doors is the most fantastic way to travel."

Monisha's comments on two of the day-running trains that I plan to take are in the same vein; although she doesn't say which doors are left open - where are you, Monisha, when I need you - I'll assume that it's those in the non-AC carriages.

Mandovi Express "As it leaves early in the morning, you can sit in the doorways throughout the day as the train blasts across rivers, by villages filled with blossoms, thick orchards that barely let in the light and the coastline ... The train doors are usually left open on this breathtaking journey, so take advantage and don't even think of doing this route overnight, it would be a criminal waste!"

Goa Express "I know it's generally not recommended, but loiter by the doorway and you'll get some unrivalled photos of the mountains."

I'm a senior citizen who left the hippie trail over fifty years ago and now like my comfort. So I'll probably buy 2A tickets and look out - and maybe hang out - of whichever door is most convenient.

PS Julia, I've noted your point about not shortening URLs. Thanks for the tip.

On the "normal" trains (i.e. not Rajdhani, Shatabdi or Duronto) all of the doors are openable during travel. In the "lower classes" there is often a crowd around the door which can include smokers and non-reserved passengers. My experience in 1AC and 2AC has been that most of the time I have had the door to myself.

So 2A is likely the best way to go, but watch out for that door, it's addictive.

Sleeper Class is about a whole lot more than the views.

OK I seem to annoy some people when I describe the Sleeper Class experience as 'feeling' more like travelling in India (compared to AC classes), so I'll try to explain it in a different way.

Imagine travelling in a crowded carriage full of people just as curious about you as you are about them, friendly people, some speak English, others don't, some young kids almost bursting to try to speak to you, some women giggling and covering their heads when you look in their direction, many men trying to find out what your life's like back home, and what you think about India, and most of all, what you think about the Indian cricket team.

As you relax you feel the breeze across your face, then the warmth of the sun as you watch families at work in the fields, you think how India smells completely different as you hear the Chai wallah coming towards you, you look down and see the tiny kid cleaning the floor and hoping you'll feel enough to give him Rs20, another man walks through the carriage calling out words you don't understand, he has many snacks, your new friend in the seat opposite will explain what everything is and how much it costs, you turn for another 20 minutes of gazing out of the window as the world goes by.

Now, take away the warm air and the breezes, remove the smell, lose the atmosphere, place tinted glass over the open windows, stop most people from passing through the carriage, remove half of the passengers, add curtains that can block the windows and also section off each compartment, add a few laptops/iPhones etc. and charge enough to enter the carriage to ensure only middle class people can afford it.......that's 2A.

Don't get me wrong, I do enjoy 2A, but mostly when I'm in my "I need a short break from India" mode.

I done a long thread explaining Sleeper Class, it's worth a read, but in the end, go with your gut feeling, you will enjoy both classes, but in a very different way.


Sleeper Class details & photos.



.

Word of Caution.
Few days back the entire world of Railfans were shocked when one of our buddy Swapnil David died while falling off from Jabalpur Garib Rath. He was possibly door-plating and wanted to shoot a video or image.
Kindly be careful while traveling in a LHB Coach or ICF Coaches (Not having CBC Couplers).
Thanks.

Sad news. And always a good word of caution.

Please tell me this is not our member Swapnil?

No. He is a different person.
http://www.youtube.com/user/swapnildavid/videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bJr5...eature=related
www.facebook.com/swapnil.david
http://indiarailinfo.com/blog/post/493489
##
He was however a member of Indiarailinfo and IRFCA.

Thanks for that, Dip.

But a sad thing, all the same. What can one say: Peace.

My condolences to the family and friends of Swapnil David.

And my thanks to Steven for his evocation of the particular pleasures of Sleeper Class.

Since it's the views that especially interest me on this first trip to India I'll probably opt for 2AC, with plenty of time spent - cautiously, hanging on tight - by an open door.

Cassio

If you are 60 or over don't forget to request Seniors' discount (40% for men) when you book.

Thanks, Dave, for that timely reminder. I knew that there is a discount but didn't know how much. Presumably a passport is accepted as proof of age, and no special registration or ID card is required.

Madame W qualified as a Senior (lower threshhold for ladies) last trip and in about 15 trips only one Ticket Examiner even bothered to open her passport. She was quite miffed about it.

It's very easy to find the boxes to tick for the senior fares on either Cleartrip or IRCTC. You also have to fill in your DoB but that doesn't automatically trigger a discount request.