An Ode to the Dhaba

barochallo · Feb 7th, 2009, 01:37

Almost every traveler to India comes across the ubiquitous ‘Dhaba’, especially in the central and northern parts of the country. Although the term ‘Dhaba’ is also adopted by some of the upper crust ethnic restaurants in the cities, I am here, referring to the original Dhaba; those humble food and rest stops which dot the National (interstate) and State highways all over India, in their hundreds and thousands. And eating in a Dhaba has only two pre-requisites. A good, strong digestive system, and your own drinking water.

The word ‘Dhaba’ does not to my knowledge, have a direct translation into English, but it may loosely correspond to a ‘way-side inn’ or ‘road-side eating-joint’. The Dhaba was probably first conceived as a place for long distance truck drivers to rest and freshen up, and have a hot meal at an extremely reasonable price; hence the majority of these Dhabas will be situated around the Petrol Pumps (Gas stations) on the highways, simulating the ‘Food & Fuel’ stations on US interstate highways.

You will find a typical Dhaba to be a bare brick and concrete structure, much like a shed. The walls will neither have plaster nor paint on them; the owner and his clients have no interest in such frivolities. The open space in front will sometimes have a sober blue or white tarpaulin sheet pulled taut and tied to the tops of bamboo poles stuck into the ground at some distance away. These serve as a shaded semi-open ‘dining-area’ for those who wish to enjoy their meals in the open air.

The furniture is characteristic. The tables will be long and flat, low set. And the seating will be comprised of ‘charpais.’ These are essentially cots; wooden frame with legs and the seating space formed by jute ropes/ strips tied tautly across the frames in a criss-cross fashion. There may also be a couple of ‘bolsters’ or chubby cylindrical cushions to lean against. A transistor-radio perched on the owner's desk provides one with the fare from the local AM radio station (subject to signal strength) and is the only source of entertainment.

OK, now for the protocol for Dhaba-dining as I would like to call it. You get out of your vehicle and enter the Dhaba. Then you set down your stuff on a table of your choice. Now look around and you’ll see the barrel of water set in the corner. Using the steel jug next to it, you step outside the walls of the Dhaba and wash your hands, face and then hands again, in that order. Then you ignore the towel hung on the wall and go sit down on the charpai. Now when I mean sit, the term includes kicking off your shoes, pulling up your legs onto the charpai and reclining against a bolster.

The waiter will come shortly and ask what you want. There is no menu card. So you ask him what’s available. Sometimes there is a menu card painted on the wall, but it is assumed that the items mentioned on the same are not necessarily available. So you ask him anyway. He will give you a choice of three, sometimes four vegetarian dishes. And one of them will be Dal-Fry. Chicken will be able as with gravy or as a dry variety. They like to keep it simple here. No sense confusing the diner and the waiter with difficult terminology like Veg Hariyali, Chicken Patiala or Murg Mussallam. And there will be the standard Indian breads; roti or paratha. And plain steamed rice.

While one is just about to start wondering whether to criticize the lack of choice in the menu, the waiter arrives with the food. Time elapsed since ordering- 23 seconds (would put McDonalds to shame) But then Dhabas have to serve hungry, burly truck drivers. And hungry, burly truck drivers tend to get testy if kept waiting for too long for their food.

What impresses you first about the food, is that it is hot. Not the microwave-pre-and-re-heated hot, I mean hot as in fresh, steaming hot, straight from their ‘tawa’ or cooking vessel into your plate. And there will be the accompanying plate of sliced onions, tomato and cucumber, with salt and lemon generously sprinkled over it.
But one cannot sit and admire the food for long. For the food beckons, the mouth starts to water and the stomach starts to rumble. So one takes up a roti or paratha with BOTH hands (manners are unimportant in a Dhaba), breaks off a piece and soaks it in the gravy or dal or envelopes some of the pungent, ‘subzi’ (vegetable) or piece of chicken into it. Then like a connoisseur sniffing a glass of wine, one takes in the aroma for a full five seconds (believe me, the time is well invested) and places it in the mouth.

And then your senses take over. The orchestra of the spices and vegetables, chicken and paratha play a symphony of the finest kind and pamper your tongue to the finest degree. Your stomach cries out ‘ye dil maange more!’ (this heart yearns for more!) And so on it goes from mouthful to mouthful till you can’t stuff yourself anymore. And then, suitable satiated, one orders for a tea and leans back against the bolster, feeling like an Indian Emperor.

The tea arrives with equal haste (truck drivers have tight schedules to keep) and then one reclines against the bolster and enjoys the strong, sweet tea. And finally, after the tea, one orders for the bill and is astounded to see that a meal that has transformed you into a King costs but a fraction of the price of a meal in the City.

Finally, you bid the portly Dhaba-owner farewell, leave a generous tip for the waiter and exit the Dhaba. And as you board your vehicle for the next leg of the journey, you begin to wonder.
Which Dhabha shall I stop for dinner…

barochallo

Haylo · Feb 7th, 2009, 01:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by barochallo

eating in a Dhaba has only two pre-requisites. A good, strong digestive system, and your own drinking water.

Unfortunately, having only one of the two prerequisites (and being able to take only short trips to India so not wanting to risk losing time through illness) I have been less than adventurous.

However, your wonderful description has totally inspired me! Now, just email me your address, so I can send you the medical bills!

palerider · Feb 7th, 2009, 03:25

I've never ever been sick from Dhaba food.
Great little article.
And you're right about the water.
I just ask them if it's okay.
Once I had a guy drag the cup from my hands, shaking his head." Nahi nay nay, this is not good. Only for local people."
And the tea always tastes better from a dhaba.
There's one in the market at SMIT, just out of Shillong, where you can get three dishes, and bread, rice and tea for 15 rupees. I went there three times in a week. It was worth the hour bus ride.

pinkyparker · Feb 7th, 2009, 03:59

Next time in Orissa, stop by Chilka Dhaba -near Barkul Panthanivas for the best grilled prawns (from the lake) you've ever had. Half order is 6 (they are huge and for regular appetites should be enough); and a full order is 12. I had my driver drive 40 miles out of our way so I could eat here one last time before leaving Orissa. A stop is highly recommended!

kristinm · Feb 7th, 2009, 05:11

Oh yes - we loved Dhaba food, we had to win arguments with various drivers who wanted to take us to 'safe' tourist 'dhabas' (what is that chain called?) but once in the real thing we were in heaven... We did feel a little like animals in a zoo as every mouthful was closely observed.. but you get used to that.

vir · Feb 7th, 2009, 05:39

Great article. I hear they have something called "Greasy spoon" restaurants here in west which is very similar to Dhabas. I have never been to any Greasy spoon restaurant here.

palerider · Feb 7th, 2009, 07:46

greasy spoons are a bit below Dhabas
, but the concept is the same, cheap and cheerful.

barochallo · Feb 7th, 2009, 17:30

Thanks for the comments, mates. Some helpful tips there for a foodie like myself

Quote:

Originally Posted by Haylo

However, your wonderful description has totally inspired me! Now, just email me your address, so I can send you the medical bills!

Ha Ha, good one there Haylo. I’m glad my article has inspired you to try eating out at a Dhaba. But don’t be discouraged. You (and I

!) may not need to worry about your medical bills at all. With a little training and getting used to, perhaps you will soon get conditioned to the food here. In a few weeks, we may find the Indian Indiamikers among us looking admiringly at a video that you’ve posted, depicting yourself calmly and unperturbedly tucking into Chicken Kolhapuri from Maharashtra and the famous (or infamous) avakkai mango pickle from Andhra Pradesh. (both of which incidentally should be registered in the Regulation of Firearms and Explosive Act, they’re that hot!)

But seriously speaking, one need not worry about getting gastroenteritis at Dhabas as the food served there is hot, which kills all the germs. But that’s the key. Hot food and your own drinking water. Sometimes it’s tempting to try that huge inviting glass of cold lassi (buttermilk) at a Dhaba, especially on a hot, sultry summer afternoon, but then that may be asking for trouble.
It’s usually the spices and oil which don’t agree with some and cause indigestion. But where there’s a will, there’s a way. A home remedy- simple curd rice morning, afternoon and night for a couple of days will put the ol’ grinding mill back in action. I use this with great success after the odd adventurous jaunt to a Dhaba which has cost me a bit.

I forgot to mention that in the winters, the Dhabas up north serve a roti made of corn-flour (‘makki-da-roti’) and a vegetable dish made of ‘sarson’, a green leafy vegetable usually available only in the winters. They serve it with a large dollop of home-made butter and it’s worth dying for (‘coz after eating it you feel you’ve gone to heaven!) It’s that good.

I also forgot to mention that a busy Dhaba is probably also a tasty one. And the food is more likely to be fresh as the turnover is more. Indians are ruthless in that respect; that a Dhaba that serves sub-standard fare will remain an vacant one.

barochallo

asha210 · May 11th, 2009, 08:03

extremely well written article. you forgot to add the bhangra and/or bollywood music though, which goes really well with dhaba food and ambiance.

namaste_cat · May 15th, 2009, 03:37

This Punjabi (and Kashmiri) girl just loved your wonderful post, barochallo! One of the things I miss most about home are the Dhabas. Gosh, don't even get me started on the yummy parathas, makki-di-roti & "sarson da saag"

The food is beyond compare, and the convivial atmosphere is so heart-warming. Honestly, to compare them to greasy spoons in the U.S. is doing them a disservice. No offense to some greasy spoons and diners which can be rather nice, but just not in the same league. Uh oh, I better duck!

The first time I took my American children to a dhaba, the shock on their faces was quite something to behold. They had already been to a "lassi stand" and "milk bar" on the way and pleasantly surprised but still..when the food came, and they smelled it, there was no question - they dove right in.

In fact, of all their experiences in India, dhaba food ranks among the highest. My daughter (now 15) had the temerity to say "Meh" in response to my parents question about what she thought was the Taj Mahal. He he, she's never lived that one down. Mention dhaba though, and her (and her brother's) face lights up. American husband's too, though he knows better than to compare my pathetic Indian home cooking to it

delhiwala · Jul 19th, 2009, 03:17

Came across this post just now !!

Excellent !! Very Very Excellently written......

jaibharatma · Jul 19th, 2009, 03:33

My mouth is watering, barochallo. Can't wait for makki di roti and sarson da sag in two months. A "first" for my American friend.

Aupmanyav · Jul 24th, 2009, 17:40

Dhabas are nice. Just a suggestion, do not ask for too much of curry. That is where infections hide.

palerider · Jul 24th, 2009, 20:35

I tend to go for the North Indian Thali, it's filling and interesting.

Only two days, and I'm there.Pant, Dribble.

snonymous · Jul 24th, 2009, 22:24

Mouth watering post, Barochallo! Reminds me of the wonderful dhabas in Karnal, many years ago - I was so full but so greedy, I just could not resist all that yummy food.

Here in Maharashtra, the tastiest dhabas along the highways are also where you will find all the North Indian truck drivers at.

Feb 7th, 2009, 01:37	#1
barochallo Neophyte Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Maharashtra, India Posts: 56	An Ode to the Dhaba Almost every traveler to India comes across the ubiquitous ‘Dhaba’, especially in the central and northern parts of the country. Although the term ‘Dhaba’ is also adopted by some of the upper crust ethnic restaurants in the cities, I am here, referring to the original Dhaba; those humble food and rest stops which dot the National (interstate) and State highways all over India, in their hundreds and thousands. And eating in a Dhaba has only two pre-requisites. A good, strong digestive system, and your own drinking water. The word ‘Dhaba’ does not to my knowledge, have a direct translation into English, but it may loosely correspond to a ‘way-side inn’ or ‘road-side eating-joint’. The Dhaba was probably first conceived as a place for long distance truck drivers to rest and freshen up, and have a hot meal at an extremely reasonable price; hence the majority of these Dhabas will be situated around the Petrol Pumps (Gas stations) on the highways, simulating the ‘Food & Fuel’ stations on US interstate highways. You will find a typical Dhaba to be a bare brick and concrete structure, much like a shed. The walls will neither have plaster nor paint on them; the owner and his clients have no interest in such frivolities. The open space in front will sometimes have a sober blue or white tarpaulin sheet pulled taut and tied to the tops of bamboo poles stuck into the ground at some distance away. These serve as a shaded semi-open ‘dining-area’ for those who wish to enjoy their meals in the open air. The furniture is characteristic. The tables will be long and flat, low set. And the seating will be comprised of ‘charpais.’ These are essentially cots; wooden frame with legs and the seating space formed by jute ropes/ strips tied tautly across the frames in a criss-cross fashion. There may also be a couple of ‘bolsters’ or chubby cylindrical cushions to lean against. A transistor-radio perched on the owner's desk provides one with the fare from the local AM radio station (subject to signal strength) and is the only source of entertainment. OK, now for the protocol for Dhaba-dining as I would like to call it. You get out of your vehicle and enter the Dhaba. Then you set down your stuff on a table of your choice. Now look around and you’ll see the barrel of water set in the corner. Using the steel jug next to it, you step outside the walls of the Dhaba and wash your hands, face and then hands again, in that order. Then you ignore the towel hung on the wall and go sit down on the charpai. Now when I mean sit, the term includes kicking off your shoes, pulling up your legs onto the charpai and reclining against a bolster. The waiter will come shortly and ask what you want. There is no menu card. So you ask him what’s available. Sometimes there is a menu card painted on the wall, but it is assumed that the items mentioned on the same are not necessarily available. So you ask him anyway. He will give you a choice of three, sometimes four vegetarian dishes. And one of them will be Dal-Fry. Chicken will be able as with gravy or as a dry variety. They like to keep it simple here. No sense confusing the diner and the waiter with difficult terminology like Veg Hariyali, Chicken Patiala or Murg Mussallam. And there will be the standard Indian breads; roti or paratha. And plain steamed rice. While one is just about to start wondering whether to criticize the lack of choice in the menu, the waiter arrives with the food. Time elapsed since ordering- 23 seconds (would put McDonalds to shame) But then Dhabas have to serve hungry, burly truck drivers. And hungry, burly truck drivers tend to get testy if kept waiting for too long for their food. What impresses you first about the food, is that it is hot. Not the microwave-pre-and-re-heated hot, I mean hot as in fresh, steaming hot, straight from their ‘tawa’ or cooking vessel into your plate. And there will be the accompanying plate of sliced onions, tomato and cucumber, with salt and lemon generously sprinkled over it. But one cannot sit and admire the food for long. For the food beckons, the mouth starts to water and the stomach starts to rumble. So one takes up a roti or paratha with BOTH hands (manners are unimportant in a Dhaba), breaks off a piece and soaks it in the gravy or dal or envelopes some of the pungent, ‘subzi’ (vegetable) or piece of chicken into it. Then like a connoisseur sniffing a glass of wine, one takes in the aroma for a full five seconds (believe me, the time is well invested) and places it in the mouth. And then your senses take over. The orchestra of the spices and vegetables, chicken and paratha play a symphony of the finest kind and pamper your tongue to the finest degree. Your stomach cries out ‘ye dil maange more!’ (this heart yearns for more!) And so on it goes from mouthful to mouthful till you can’t stuff yourself anymore. And then, suitable satiated, one orders for a tea and leans back against the bolster, feeling like an Indian Emperor. The tea arrives with equal haste (truck drivers have tight schedules to keep) and then one reclines against the bolster and enjoys the strong, sweet tea. And finally, after the tea, one orders for the bill and is astounded to see that a meal that has transformed you into a King costs but a fraction of the price of a meal in the City. Finally, you bid the portly Dhaba-owner farewell, leave a generous tip for the waiter and exit the Dhaba. And as you board your vehicle for the next leg of the journey, you begin to wonder. Which Dhabha shall I stop for dinner… barochallo __________________ Sharing is caring...

Feb 7th, 2009, 03:25	#3
palerider this is Brad. He's cute Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Armidale, N.S.W., Australia Posts: 2,226	I've never ever been sick from Dhaba food. Great little article. And you're right about the water. I just ask them if it's okay. Once I had a guy drag the cup from my hands, shaking his head." Nahi nay nay, this is not good. Only for local people." And the tea always tastes better from a dhaba. There's one in the market at SMIT, just out of Shillong, where you can get three dishes, and bread, rice and tea for 15 rupees. I went there three times in a week. It was worth the hour bus ride. __________________ I always wanted to be someone when I grew up, I realise now that I should have been more specific.

Feb 7th, 2009, 03:59	#4
pinkyparker Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Chicago area Posts: 55	Next time in Orissa, stop by Chilka Dhaba -near Barkul Panthanivas for the best grilled prawns (from the lake) you've ever had. Half order is 6 (they are huge and for regular appetites should be enough); and a full order is 12. I had my driver drive 40 miles out of our way so I could eat here one last time before leaving Orissa. A stop is highly recommended! __________________ Journey far..... Walk in Peace.

Jul 19th, 2009, 03:17	#11
delhiwala IM what IM Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Indeyah ! Posts: 4,813	Came across this post just now !! Excellent !! Very Very Excellently written...... __________________ Travel only with thy equals or thy betters; if there are none, travel alone. - The Dhammapada

Jul 24th, 2009, 22:24	#15
snonymous xxx Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Mumbai Posts: 1,749	Mouth watering post, Barochallo! Reminds me of the wonderful dhabas in Karnal, many years ago - I was so full but so greedy, I just could not resist all that yummy food. Here in Maharashtra, the tastiest dhabas along the highways are also where you will find all the North Indian truck drivers at. __________________ Some of My Tall Tales at http://www.travelpod.com/members/indianature My Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/groups/snonymous/

Feb 7th, 2009, 05:11	#5
kristinm Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Beautiful Bondi (not Bundi!) Posts: 1,603	Oh yes - we loved Dhaba food, we had to win arguments with various drivers who wanted to take us to 'safe' tourist 'dhabas' (what is that chain called?) but once in the real thing we were in heaven... We did feel a little like animals in a zoo as every mouthful was closely observed.. but you get used to that.

Feb 7th, 2009, 05:39	#6
vir Indori Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 268	Great article. I hear they have something called "Greasy spoon" restaurants here in west which is very similar to Dhabas. I have never been to any Greasy spoon restaurant here.

Feb 7th, 2009, 07:46	#7
palerider this is Brad. He's cute Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Armidale, N.S.W., Australia Posts: 2,226	greasy spoons are a bit below Dhabas , but the concept is the same, cheap and cheerful.

May 11th, 2009, 08:03	#9
asha210 Account Closed Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: USA Posts: 171	extremely well written article. you forgot to add the bhangra and/or bollywood music though, which goes really well with dhaba food and ambiance.

May 15th, 2009, 03:37	#10
namaste_cat Kashmiri-Punjabi Sherni Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Amreeka Posts: 940	This Punjabi (and Kashmiri) girl just loved your wonderful post, barochallo! One of the things I miss most about home are the Dhabas. Gosh, don't even get me started on the yummy parathas, makki-di-roti & "sarson da saag" The food is beyond compare, and the convivial atmosphere is so heart-warming. Honestly, to compare them to greasy spoons in the U.S. is doing them a disservice. No offense to some greasy spoons and diners which can be rather nice, but just not in the same league. Uh oh, I better duck! The first time I took my American children to a dhaba, the shock on their faces was quite something to behold. They had already been to a "lassi stand" and "milk bar" on the way and pleasantly surprised but still..when the food came, and they smelled it, there was no question - they dove right in. In fact, of all their experiences in India, dhaba food ranks among the highest. My daughter (now 15) had the temerity to say "Meh" in response to my parents question about what she thought was the Taj Mahal. He he, she's never lived that one down. Mention dhaba though, and her (and her brother's) face lights up. American husband's too, though he knows better than to compare my pathetic Indian home cooking to it

Jul 19th, 2009, 03:33	#12
jaibharatma Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: In the middle of the sea. Posts: 150	My mouth is watering, barochallo. Can't wait for makki di roti and sarson da sag in two months. A "first" for my American friend.

Jul 24th, 2009, 17:40	#13
Aupmanyav Search, be your own guru Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: New Delhi Posts: 600	Dhabas are nice. Just a suggestion, do not ask for too much of curry. That is where infections hide.

Jul 24th, 2009, 20:35	#14
palerider this is Brad. He's cute Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Armidale, N.S.W., Australia Posts: 2,226	I tend to go for the North Indian Thali, it's filling and interesting. Only two days, and I'm there.Pant, Dribble.

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