Unique wall painting of Noor Jahan in Dehra Dun

rajugusain

Unique wall painting of Noor Jahan in Dehra Dun

Raju Gusain
Dehra Dun, September 21

Is the portrait of Noor Jahan, located at the Durbar Sahib here, the only wall painting in India of this Mughal Empress? Art experts claim that although miniature and canvas paintings of Noor Jahan exist in many places, the wall painting here of the beautiful wife of Jahangir is the only one of its kind in India. The Archaeological Survey of India has recently restored this rare over hundred-year-old piece of art.

The other striking feature of this mural is that the Mughal beauty has found a place in a 'Udasin shrine'. Another fine example of India's communal harmony! Noor-e-Jahan, which means glory/light of the universe, was famous for her beauty and intelligence. The most common portrait of the Empress in history books is that of Noor Jahan holding a rose. But the wall painting at the Durbar Sahib shows Noor Jahan in a totally different light.

This reflects the close relationship the Darbar Sabhib had with the Mughals. Guru Ram Rai was provided sanctuary in the Doon Valley by the Maharaja of Garhwal at the behest of Emperor Aurangzeb.

The portrait shows Noor Jahan wearing a Kumaoni nose ring (locally called 'Nath'). A maid standing behind the Empress and a richly decorated border complete the rare painting.

Ranjan Chakraborty, senior artist at the Archeological Survey of India, says, "I have done restoration of wall paintings in many places like Rajasthan, Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. But, the wall painting of Noor Jahan that exists here is the only one of its kind in India. The portrait is purely in the folk tradition with Noor Jahan being painted in the Pahari style."

The portrait of the Mughal Empress on the main gate of the Jhanda Sahib is a treat to watch. The wall paintings at the Durbar Sahib, the seat of Guru Ram Rai, were painted in three phases, from early 17th century to middle of the 19th century. The walls of the Guru Ram Rai complex present richly decorated paintings on various subjects. Most prominent are scenes from the Mahabharat, Gita, Ramayan and Krishna Leela.

BP Kamboj, author of 'Early paintings of Garhwal', says, "The style of the painting is Pahari. It has deep influence of Mughal style. Natrural colours were used.

Besides Noor Jahan, Heer-Ranjha and Laila-Majnu, some Britishers also find place in the paintings of the famous Durbar Sahib."

On this, painter and art expert HN Mishra, says, "The wall paintings of the Durbar Sahib are a symbol of communal harmony. The rare Noor Jahan painting and that too at a prominent place like the gate proves this. Besides this, the wall painting based on the ballet 'Indra Sabha', which was composed at the court of the last Nawab of Avadh, Wajid Ali Shah, is also unique."

The next time you visit the capital of Uttaranchal, do not forget to pay a visit to the Darbar Sahib to view the wall paintings, especially the portrait of Empress Noor Jahan.

Hindustan Times
New Delhi edition (Late City)
September 22, 2005

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