two weeks: karnataka+rajashstan or karnataka only?

faber

hello folks,

first time in India in december... will go fist to varanasi then Mumbaui fo9ur days for a conference, thre my girlfreind will join me on the 23d and we have a full two weeks. return on the 8th from Delhi to Italy. We can plan an itinerary as we like, but beibng our first time (actually my first time) would like to nease gently into an experience I have been looking foward to for years...
One idea is to go down to Goa and then see Karnataka by rail and car (Nagarhole, Hempi,Badami, Pattdakal Aihole) and finally fly to delhi to get our connection (hopping maybe to Fatepur Sihkri, which is an old Jungian passion of mine).
The alternative my girlfriend suggests is doing a week in the South and then flying north and getting to see at least Jodhpur and Jaisalmer...
By the way does anyone know if it is possible to get air passes in India or should we get them here?
Any advice heartily appreciated
ciao,
faber

Tomi

Ciao faber.

I have a hunch that you will like India and keep going back. Why try to do so much in one trip?
Here's what I suggest: Goa and Karnataka is enough, plus Fahtepur Sikri and a rush one day tour of Delhi at the end.

Some important things to consider, even if you have the energy for visiting a lot of different places, are:
1. It is much more difficult and time-consuming to get around India than Europe, even if you can afford a car the whole time. If you expect to take trains and buses, then there are schedule considerations, delays, difficult to get information for a first timer.
2. There are fascinating things at every turn of the road. It may take 4 hours to do a short distance by car, if you drive all the time. But you will take 8 hours because you will stop for a ruined little temple, a monkey, or a market.
3. You could get sick (stomach perhaps) and that could kill a day or two, or at least make travel uncomfortable.

Rajasthan is too beautiful to do in a short visit. I spent 5 weeks there my first time in India and that wasn't enough.

Have fun planning.

Jorge Reverter

Hi Faber,

As Tomi says, travelling in India is really different. I stayed last December in Karnataka and Goa for three weeks and was not enough time. My advice is to go from Mumbai to Mysore by train and from there to Belur, Halebid (Hoysala temples are really impressive), you can also have a look at Sravanabelagola and then to Hampi (in mi opinion the most amazing place in India) from there to Badami, Patadakal and Aihole and then few days in Goa (for me the best place there is Palolem). In two weeks is almost impossible but..., leave Rajasthan for your next trip ( to get india addicted is quite easy!!!)

All the best

Jorge

ddevadatta

I echo the sentiments that this seems too ambitious and would add that it will work against the experience you really could have. I would stick to eaither just the north or just the south. I have a bias because I am from Karnataka. You can always return someday.

If you go to Karnataka make sure you e-mail me. A must is Nagerhole and I have some good contact for a good stay.

Good luck and trust you can appreciate the wisdom here.

__________________
Ayurvedic cure for an Indian headache

faber

Hey, Tony, Jorge and Ddevadatta, this is really neat!! I am touched by your feeling comunication...
... and I think I'll stick to Karnataka and Goa (Palolem?). I actually will have been in India for ten days as I am going there for a congress in Mumbai and also hopping to Varanasi first as a friend's guest... then in Mumbai my girlfriend will join me on dec 23d. So the question now would be best head first to Karnataka and end in Goa or rest up a few days in Goa before heading for Hempi and the rest...?
I am 50 but fairly good traveller... I can also imagine returning ... so I would like to ease and propitiate this first experience (which I have often dreamt about since I was a kid)... I mean I am willing to rough it but do need some basic comfort

dooms

Your itenary can be

Mumbai to Bangalore/Mysore
Mysore - 1/2 days
Sravanbelagola - 1 day
Belur/Halebid - 1-2 day
Hampi - 2-3 days
Badami - 1 day
Pattadkal/Aihole - 1 day
Goa
Mumbai

Keep some buffer time in between for getting to these places.

Finally if you have time, you can see Ajanta/Ellora near Mumbai.

The choice of doing the same itenary in reverse depends on your travel habits. Mumbai and Mysore are the farthest apart. Get hold of a good map and identify these places.

Choice 1 - Travel as far as possible in the beginning.

Choice 2 - Travel as less as possible in the beginning.

I would suggest spending some time relaxing in the Goa beaches in the end just before you get back home.

Jorge Reverter

Hi Faber, Jorge Again.

A possible and reasonable itinerary shoul be:
1 - Mumbai - Mysore (by air via Bangalore)
2 - Mysore
3 - Mysore - Hassan (on the way you can visit Sravanabelagola)
4 - Hassan (Belur & Halebid)
5 - Hassan - Hampi ( you can also stay in Hospet)
6 - Hampi
7 - Hampi
8 - Hampi - Badami
9 - Badami (Patadakal & Aihole)
10 - Badami - Palolem ( or other place in Goa)
11 - Palolem
12 - Palolem
13 - Palolem
14 - panaji - Mumbai (by air) or Margao - Mumbai (by train)

The journey is only possible with car and driver from Mysore to Goa (day 3 to day 10).

I prefer to stay in Hampi better than in Hospet but the accomodation is in basic guest houses. Hassan is only to sleep there.

On the way from Hampi to Badami you can also visit Dambal, Lakundi ad Gadag with inpressive temples.

On your way from Bangalore to Mysore you should also visit Somnathpur and Srirangatpatnam.

Never been in National Park of Nagarhole ( 80 km southwest from Mysore)

In my opinion you haver not time enough to visit Ellora and Ajanta (next time).

Ciao

Jorge

cyberhippie

I would go with Jorge's !! With an early start it's possible to see the caves at Badami and the temples of Pattadkal/Aihole in one day!!
If you're traveling by taxi I suggest a stopover in Dandeli on the way to Palolem great wee place and the rafting through the jungle is fantastic!!

faber

Jorge, Dooms, cyberhippie,

itineraries sound good, only immediate correction would be my flying from goa to delhi (i belive spicejet does it) and having one day to see Fatephur Sikri (which I just have to see as I have been interested in Akbar's syncretistic experiments)...
What do you suggest re: driver and car? Should I Shop around in Mysore? The daily rate I undesrtand is about 1250 r a day plus driver's tip?
Any advice very welcome...
Also I think I would also prefer staying in Hampi - guest houses sound fine if basic needs met - any suggestions?
An I was thinking both of Dandeli (there's a river Lodge there I believe) and what of Nagarhole?
Must confess this is quite a turn on...
ciao

cyberhippie

If moneys no problem then a car and driver isn't a bad idea this way you get to see things along the way such as the suggestions by Jorge or indeed the Dandeli stop.
Doing all this by train is doable (apart from the Mysore-Hampi stretch) but will require a bit of logistical planning as a delay could really mess up this short itinery!!

Dandeli has a couple of jungle camps and a rather over valued hotel by the river run by Karanataka State Tourism.

Jungle Camp

Bison River Camp

We stayed in a place in town who's name excapes me right now, great value though clean hot water roomy cable TV for 249 rp a night!!

They also organise rafting trips and trips into the wildlife sanctuary!

Jorge Reverter

Hi,

Thanks Cyberhippie. I was there last December and still remember. I spend 24 hour in Dandeli, in Kali River Lodge. Very good located in front of the river. You can choose between tents or bungalows Very nice rafting available. In Disneyland they have an attraction of Kali river rafting. In Dandeli you can do the real one. rice was 50 Us $ per person/per day (rafting not included) including meals and jungle excursion (not that much interesting). The only problem to stay in Dandeli are the roads, probably the worst in India (difficult to choose in India).

http://www.junglelodges.com
http://www.kalirafting.com

faber

speaking of roads, I keep reading horror stories about Indian wayfaring, as much as I know that seeking safety at all costs is a dangerous mental construction I would appreciate any guidelines or hints concerning hiring a reliable taxi and driver, either in Mysore or Goa (depending on where we'll start from)
For fun I share a decalogue found on Indnet archives (author was Mark Willis from Singapore) maybe you already know it but it gave ma a good laugh

Traveling on Indian Roads is an almost hallucinatory potion of sound, spectacle and experience. It is frequently heart-rending, sometimes hilarious, mostly exhilarating, always unforgettable -- and, when you are on the roads, extremely dangerous.

Most Indian road users observe a version of the Highway Code based on a Sanskrit text. These 12 rules of the Indian road are published for the first time in English:

ARTICLE I:

The assumption of immortality is required of all road users.

ARTICLE II:

Indian traffic, like Indian society,is structured on a strict caste system. The following precedence must be accorded at all times. In descending order, give way to:

Cows, elephants, heavy trucks, buses, official cars, camels, light trucks, buffalo, jeeps, ox-carts, private cars, motorcycles, scooters, auto-rickshaws, pigs, pedal rickshaws, goats, bicycles (goods-carrying), handcarts, bicycles (passenger-carrying), dogs, pedestrians.

ARTICLE III:

All wheeled vehicles shall be driven in accordance with the maxim:

to slow is to falter, to brake is to fail, to stop is defeat.

This is the Indian drivers' mantra.

ARTICLE IV:

Use of horn (also known as the sonic fender or aural amulet):

Cars (IV,1,a-c):

Short blasts (urgent) indicate supremacy, IE in clearing dogs, rickshaws and pedestrians from path.

Long blasts (desperate) denote supplication, IE to oncoming truck: "I am going too fast to stop, so unless you slow down we shall both die". In extreme cases this may be accompanied by flashing of headlights (frantic).

Single blast (casual) means: "I have seen someone out of India's 870 million whom I recognise", "There is a bird in the road (which at this speed could go through my windscreen)" or "I have not blown my horn for several minutes." Trucks and buses (IV,2,a):

All horn signals have the same meaning, viz: "I have an all-up weight of approximately 12.5 tons and have no intention of stopping, even if I could." This signal may be emphasised by the use of headlamps.

Article IV remains subject to the provision of Order of Precedence in Article II above.

ARTICLE V:

All manoeuvres, use of horn and evasive action shall be left until the last possible moment.

ARTICLE VI:

In the absence of seat belts (which there is), car occupants shall wear garlands of marigolds. These should be kept fastened at all times.

ARTICLE VII:

Rights of way: Traffic entering a road from the left has priority.

So has traffic from the right, and also traffic in the middle.

Lane discipline (VII,1): All Indian traffic at all times and irrespective of direction of travel shall occupy the centre of the road.

ARTICLE VIII:

Roundabouts: India has no roundabouts. Apparent traffic islands in the middle of crossroads have no traffic management function.

Any other impression should be ignored.

ARTICLE IX:

Overtaking is mandatory. Every moving vehicle is required to overtake every other moving vehicle, irrespective of whether it has just overtaken you. Overtaking should only be undertaken in suitable conditions, such as in the face of oncoming traffic, on blind bends, at junctions and in the middle of villages/city centres. No more than two inches should be allowed between your vehicle and the one you are passing -- and one inch in the case of bicycles or pedestrians.

ARTICLE X:

Nirvana may be obtained through the head-on crash.

ARTICLE XI:

Reversing: no longer applicable since no vehicle in India has reverse gear.http://www.indiamike.com/india/image...es/biggrin.gif

faber

My present itinerary would be:

25th Mumbai - Mysore
26th Mysore
27th Sravanabelagola- Hassan
28th Hampi
29th Hampi
30th Hampi
31st Badami
1st Patadakal Aihole
2nd Dandeli or Gokarna
3d 4th 5th Palolem
6th fly to delhi
7th fatepuhr
8th return flight

So little time ! (I will have already spent four days in Varanasi e four in Mumbai though) no way I can fit ooty or nagarhole I don't think. But I would not miss Gokarna... should I stay or is it possible to pass through (!) on my way to Palolem? Or should I sacrifice one day in Hampi? Or fly from Mumbai on the 24th to get an extra day...? I guess I just have do do my own puzzling it out
but it already helps putting it into print Looking forward to sending you pics as well

Jorge Reverter

Hi Faber,

From Hassan to Hampi you will spend a day, is around 340 km and you know what it means in India. If you go to Hassan you should visit Belur and Halebid, otherwise there is no reason to stay there. Gokarna is not on your way from Badami or Dandeli to Palolem, to go there you must head south few hundred kilometres more. In Pattadakal and Aihole there is not accommodation, you must stay in Badami.

faber

tks Jorge... I was under the impression that Gokarna was about 80 km south of Palolem... and reachable from Dandeli... but I guess I am really trying to bite more than I can chew... it's just that it seemed such an interesting place...