Next trip: Uttarakhand & Coorg

machadinha

Little premature I guess, still need to book my flights. Not really looking for a lot of feedback either at this stage, it's just nice to be musing out loud, but comments on esp. the Uttarakhand bit where I've never been yet are welcome:

So after the previous trip earlier this year, I'm looking at returning early next year. Current plans:

-- Arrive Delhi early Jan.; meet with Nadreg & partner who'll be on their way out. Plan to hang around town for a week or so; have been several times before over two trips, and really grew to like the city. Find it gets better with each return. Hopefully meet plenty another Dilli'ite both in private and by way of IM Meets. And finally, finally visit the Thursday evening affair at Nizamuddin Dargah!

Move up to Kumbh Mela in Haridwar or not, I'm still undecided. Think I may let it depend in part on if I bump into some people who may drive up there, I've a feeling I will somehow, and so it may just resolve itself as it tends to do. I've been to a far smaller but nonetheless overwhelming Mela in the past, and, well, I just don't know as of yet.

Be that as it may, reading up on the wider area of Uttarakhand, I come across more than enough stuff to keep me busy for a month. Will get freaking cold as you move up I suppose, I'm counting on taking some sturdy winter's wear & ditto sleeping bag, not that I'm looking forward to carrying it around, but I do suppose that would be wise? I'll send it home later or make it stuff I can give away anyway. Though even Coorg in Feb. might merit some light woollens I reckon, see further below.

Possible destinations I'm just picking from my Lonely Planet, I understand the area is great for trekking btw, but other than the odd walk any major treks I'm really not into. In case of any advice, remember I'd be there in roughly early Jan.-early Feb. then:

Mussoorie, said to be hectic and touristy but still upbeat and lively.

Rajaji National Park, sounds really good and, for a change in terms of parks, fairly affordable too. I think like Haridwar this isn't very high up either? I've been wondering if one should expect many Indian holidaymakers taking a sidestep around the wider area from Kumbh, I somehow wouldn't expect many to?

Gangotri village perhaps, not as a base for treks then, but could be interesting to just hang around in & do some walks in the area?

(Ghangaria, for Valley of Flowers, sounds like another interesting one-street place. In mid-winter though? Hmm.)

Badrinath and nearby Mana village, sounds very nice indeed to just stay in and do some walking around.

Corbett Tiger Reserve, yes, well, hm, it's an option. I think the above Rajaji would seem lesser-known and hence more attractive to me, and I think visiting just one would suit me. Corbett too doesn't look too insanely expensive, compared to some others, btw.

Nainital, perhaps rather over-visited again, sounds attractive and lively in its own right though.

Ranikhet, sounds the rather more peaceful, and said to offer some good walks again.

Almora? Sounds nice enough again.

Kausani. Ditto.

Bageshwar. Pithoragarh. Ditto again.

There's obviously no way I'm gonna do all that in a month or three weeks even, just some thoughts (I spent on average a short week in most places last time, and found that a very agreeable pace. Then again it was freaking hot most of the time too, maybe the cold will get me a little more energetic.) Another thing is I've been struck by AMS before at not at all a high altitude, no idea how I'd fare this time. Plan to take it easy if anything.

If I find it too cold and/or I'm not well (at least I should know the symptoms now), I'll just descend to the plains again. I've not been to North India for a long time, and, after some of the usual initial being culture-shocked there, really grew to love it, with all its hustle and bustle. So would look forward to revisit; Gwalior and Orchha I'd still love to visit, never been yet, and then revisiting Jaisalmer would be fun, and meeting Aishah along the way, and... well, I wouldn't go bored there for sure.

-- Return to Delhi somewhere beginning of Feb., spend a few more days, then fly south to presumably Bangalore (and meet some folks there). I've seen flights that I can book from here for around 50 Euros (Rs. 3500 one-way), that seems OK to me. Not so big on having the flight date set in stone, but, well, and one would need to break this two-month trip in two somewhere anyway.

Spend the next month in Coorg (Kodagu). Meet some folks I met in Madikeri earlier this year; explore the region some more, no real questions here. Visit Kakkabe which I missed earlier; another destination here would be a holy town/village here where some river originates, can't find the name right now. Well, plenty to see just touring around the area. Ah, finally visit Wayanad Park then perhaps, just drove through here on a full-moon night earlier this year, looked just stunning indeed.

(Some might suggest visiting Bylakuppe here, but I've been in the past, not sure if I'll return. Might make it a day trip if it works out that way though. In hindsight, I wondered if these folks shouldn't be best left going their own ways.)

Up to Mumbai (finally take the daytime Konkan railway trip up there from Mangalore if I can -- was all booked up last time, alas, so I did most of it by night), and out we go again. Oh, finally meet Swapnil in Pune on my way up there then -- as well as see back some dear Mumbaikars then.

Hmm... who, me, excited about the whole thing?!

(And come to think of it, years ago I was dreaming about visiting those mountainous regions of what was then I think Uttar Pradesh. So maybe it all comes around this way; although I could have picked a better time of year perhaps. Hm, well, we'll see. There were some pics again here just recently of some places in Uttarakhand that I'm not even sure I'd get close to btw, but looked just fabulous indeed. Little less green and more snowy when I'll be, I suppose.)

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kullukid

Looks like we'll be walking the same path Mach!!
I wouldn't recommend trying to get to Gangotri & Badrinath at that time, but Nainital, Ranikhet, Almora,Kausani,Bageshwar & Pithoragarh sounds good. KK

machadinha

Ah! Pity, the description of Badrinath really attracts me. Too cold and/or hence hasslesome to get up there that time of year?

Logical route and/or relevant heights I've not even looked into yet, btw. Lots of clanky buses taking forever past scary ravines I suppose

So how tightly do you normally pack up against the cold there, assuming you've been before that time of year, which I do assume you have?

labrol

The cauvery (Kaveri) river originates from Tala cauvery in Coorg. There is a shrine at the bottom of the hill at Bhagamandala. So now you can figure this out. Hopefully we shall meet in Delhi and there will be a lot to exchange. Coorg is my favorite. Visit the Tibetan settlement and temple at Kushalnagar in Coorg.Kakkabe is beautiful.Ask for Sagar's resort by the river side just a km from the five shop market at Kakkabe(1500Rs per day all inclusive, basic and clean).

In uttarakhand, between Rajaji and Corbett, of course Corbett and of course Dhikala, if you can get it. Send a fax with names of visitors and their passport numbers along with an Indian fax number for reply. Your Indian host should send a bank draft on getting confirmation of booking. Send your fax ASAP. The confirmation will come three weeks before your date. You can not add or change the names of the visitors after having applied. You can search for the fax number of Director Corbett National Park on the net or pm me. I have it at my work place.


In Kumaon think of Jageshwar and Khirsu. I have read about Khirsu on IM. Jageshwar, I can vouch for.

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labrol

Badrinath temple opened on the 1st of May this year. Go to Chopta instead and walk to Tungnath if you wish(Temple will be closed. Road may be open or closed). Take a minus something celsius sleeping bag.

jituyadav

Good decision, you will just love uttarakhand

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cityMONK

If some activities in Garhwal like these can be of your interest.
May some thing similar at time of your visit.

Bagwaal: Garhwali Diwali

this is current thread going on in india mike.

machadinha

Swift & relevant responses as usual, IM'ers, thanks, rest assured I'm reading along with you as you mention some of those places.

Logging out now, but keep it coming.

livinhimalayas

You won;t be able to go to Gangotri in winter, it is out of bounds during this time. The farthest you can travel is up to Dharali about 30 kms down river from Gangotri. If there isn't much snow then yo ucan travel up to Kopang but that is as far as you will get.
same for Badrinath, Mana and Ghangharia out of bounds in winter. If you want to visit these places plan your visit in April end.

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capt_mahajan

Suggest

Jageshwar, as mentioned.

Binsar.

Not too many days in Almora- not in the town anyway.

If you want to spend some time with foreign backpackers look at the ridge above Almora. (a couple of kms beyond).

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machadinha

Yo guys (gals),

First, sorry for having left this lying around. Rest assured just the above already greatly helped me in narrowing down a possible itinerary (or rather simply bunch of options) there, notably in Uttarakhand I mean. I've been looking at this and pouring over some guidebooks and maps and stuff, and had meant to continue this thread from there. I can see what destinations would be not realistic btw, some of that goes up to 8.5 Km. or so I realized only later, that's a little steep in winter I suppose yes

I'm stuck in a bit of a rut here, not even sure if I should go. Not sure what I'm asking for either; some form of encouragement or conversely reassuring I don't have to go rather, or something.

I keep waking up (well, not all the time, it's not quite as dramatic ) thinking help it's so soon and what am I doing. Procrastination is one major factor I'm very prone to, it's getting nearer and nearer and I've not arranged a goddamn thing yet. Then again I left it all to the last minute the last time as I tend to do anyway and it all worked out swell, what am I worrying about. (And I had the same fears and trepidations and feelings of uneasiness, doesn't one always before a trip. That was after years of not having been there though; this time it somehow feels differently.)

And then the whole plan was developed as soon as I returned (and itself partly based on earlier plans even), but now I wonder if it isn't a little soon for me. I could postpone a year or so. Then again I can't be sure if I'd be in a position to do it or for as long by then.

While I much enjoy being by myself and away from it all btw, I found two months away from my Mrs. not always easy the last time (no, she doesn't want to come along, so that's not an option. Otherwise always fully supportive of me going though, it's just not her thing.)

On a very practical note, I've been wondering about how cold does cold up there get exactly. I've now borrowed a minus 10 or 20C sleeping bag, it's not even very big nor heavy (it's not exactly tiny either however), but just looking at that kind of give me the creeps, I mean I hate luggging all that stuff around, and then there'll be sweaters and jeans to take and... (Throw in a hat, gloves? None of it bulky nor heavy either, but you know how it all adds up.)

I could just skip that area of course, or perhaps stick to its lower regions. (Then again you'd probably still need a sweater, why not take the sleeping bag as well. And then the this that and the other, and presto there you have a massive bag all over again.) And then Kumbh, I don't know, it was the original reason for the whole idea really, what started off this year's earlier trip and got me back to India in a way even, but the more I think of it the more I think I'll just freak out there. I really don't like crowds. Then again if I'm gonna be there anyway, why on earth not have a look at least. It is indeed the chance of a lifetime, isn't it.

And then etc. and such and yada yada. I'd been thinking btw trekkers just rent their stuff right, couldn't I do so with some warm stuff from say Delhi, but then again I don't know how common it is to take that across half a region. I mean I suppose one commonly does this from place X then walk up a mountain or down a valley and returns. (Which, btw and to repeat it, is really neither my thing nor my plan. I like a good walk just like the next person and that's about it.)

(I'm not even much of a mountain man I guess. Strange perhaps for a Capricorn, but then I guess I like my steep slopes to be more figurative )

I figured I'd consult the I Ching the other day (no, that's not my religion either, but I consider it a handy tool and have a good rapport with it so to speak and it rarely fails me. Just a means to self-reflection isn't it, or if I were to have to explain it anyway); cheeky oracle book that it not rarely is though, it lead me from Beauty to the Stranger (the latter one of my favorite hexagrams in it, and of course depicting just what it says, so someone eternally and by nature on the move). And then the moving lines inbetween concerning specific ways (and in this case rather elegant, so again encouraging you'd think) of movement indeed.

So I guess there's just one thing for it, and that's to go, haha

I don't know, I needed to reflect, and was looking for some reflection.

Postpone a year? Look for a different period of year? Change destinations around altogether? (Coorg I have no doubts about btw, but then it would be a second return anyway, I see no issues there. Mostly plan to just relax and enjoy there.) (Just book that ff'ing ticket already so you have no option but to go? Luxury problems indeed and anyway, aren't they.)

Oh btw assuming I do still go (and I probably will ), I'd been looking at Hyderabad-Bangalore (so flying to H'bad instead of straight to BLR when going south). Not so far it seems, and it would allow me to see some people again there. And I liked the city, and I stupidly managed to miss seeing Golconda Fort even, so why not try again.

We'll see. But, er, first some courage, please! (Or the realization it doesn't have to be now, then. Last time I woke up in this mood I was very close to saying OK now is just not the time.)

livinhimalayas

Well if it was the Kumbh that you wanted to visit then it will go on till april so you can plan to visit later in the year, but then last year March end was the coldest part of the winter!! - or stick to your original plan and come when you plan to. If the locals can spend their winter nights with a cotton filled quilt I guess so can you. You can do a day trip of most of the higher areaS. The days are pretty warm here so you will need the heavy woolens only at night. I suppose a down jacket and thermal inners should see you through most of it and ofcourse cap, gloves and socks. There is no need to carry a sleeping bag if you don;t want to in most places the beds are sufficient what would be a better thing to carry is an electric blanket - less bulky and more cozy. And on your way back someone might just buy it off you so you don't have to carry it back (you still don't get electric blankets easily in India.
Hope that helps a little in your decision