Narkanda and Beyond: Chakrata to Fagu/Shimla via Tuini-Hatkoti-Kharapathar

hi IMers,
I am not a Newbie here. I was here before two years ago but somehow got locked out.
I need help planning a trip to Narkanda & Beyond (where ever possible). There are five of us including a small kid (5-6 years old). My brother along with his wife and kid is coming from Southern India and wishes to experience EXTREME cold, LOTS of Snow (Must) and a thrilling ride with breath taking views

Note: If we don't find snow anywhere near Narkanda or around, we are ready to travel till 'Kalpa'.

I have almost been thru the whole Himachal Pradesh forums with very informative threads from 'Dhari' 'Avid' 'Rajesh' and Others.

Before I start, following is the little bit of homework I have done:
1. Been thru the HPTDC website offering a range of hotels in all circuits. (http://www.hptdc.nic.in/tariff.htm) however I would still need any reviews abt the HPTDC hotels for the places I plan to visit.

2. Is it advisable to book online for a hotel from HPTDC with the surety of not to expect any disappointing surprises? (http://hptdc.gov.in/custsw/viewuser8.asp)

Total Days: 22nd Dec '07 to 26th Dec '07 (Both Days Inclusive, 5 days). We plan to travel by a private car (800 CC, 50 bhp), we are all good drivers and the car has 'been to hell and back'. I am confident abt the vehicle and can rip to any extent, gladly

We are starting on 22nd December '07 early morning from Chandigarh and plan to make the first night halt at Narkanda. Please suggest a good place to stay and ph numbers, and if prior booking is required?

From Narkanda, we plan to start the REAL trip. I am considering the following places after been thru the forum: (I would need the distance in KM and Hrs and the places to enjoy/halt on the way).

These places have been decided by going thru 'Dhari's' trip as he has mentioned the accomodation details which is very imp considering that we have a kid along.

1. Narkanda - Sarahan
2. Sarahan - Chitkul
3. Chitkul - Kalpa

Other than this, I am considering the following (either or as well). Source: http://hotelhatu.tripod.com/itinerary.html

1. Visit Jalori Pass,(3,550 m) 90 km, from Narkanda a three hours drive via Sainj, Luhri, Aani & Khanag. A breath taking scenery through Kullu Valley. 45 minutes level walk from the Pass takes you to Sarolsar Lake among deep forest.

2. Rohru, 70 km from Narkanda the road passes through one of the best Himalayan Tropical Forest offering breath taking scenery on way through Baggi, Tikkar and numerous small hamlets and streams. Fuel Station is available at Rohru. Stay: HPTDC Hotel Chanshal, 01781 - 240661 (Reviews/Options)

3. Sarahan, 105 km from Narkanda and 40 km from Rampur. The route is on NH-22 upto Jeori, from where the road bifurcates to Sarahan. Fuel Station is available at Jeori. Stay: HPTDC Hotel Srikhand, 01782 - 274234 (Reviews/Options).

4. Chitkul, How far is it from Narkanda/Sarahan? I found teh following info on the net:
To reach Chitkul and Raksham, one takes the national highway from Shimla to Rampur past Narkanda up to a dusty junction called Karcham. From Karcham, you take a detour to Chitkul and rise almost vertically close to 8000ft. via the Chung Sakhago pass into the Baspa valley. In effect, you have left the Sutlej below to meet its higher tributary the Baspa. Public transport is both reliable and advisable. The moment you enter this 95km. plateau after the adrenaline pumped ascent, you see the huge Baspa valley – hydroelectric project. You will now hit the fairly well populated and commercial town of Sangla. From here on the drive is mostly level driving through some magnificent mountain scapes.

The road now continues up to Chitkul occasionally allowing a hill stream to gurgle and cross its path. You keep seeing the snow peaks all along with tall Chinar, Pine and Chilgoza trees. In early spring there is still a white snow carpet with the occasional green shrub pushing through and in late spring there is an absolute riot of colors till your vision reaches the horizon.

I would love to visit this place. Have read about Thakur Guest House.

4. Kalpa, 185 km from Narkanda, the route is on NH-22 (Hindustan Tibet Road) which bifurcates to Kalpa from Powari. Fuel Station is available at Powari and is the last fuel station on Hindustan Tibet Road (NH-22). Stay: Kinner Kailash Cottage, 01786 - 226159
(Reviews/Options, read there are lot of other better options).

Please suggest a good itinerary out of the places I have mentioned above and suggest alternatives/possibilities. What is the possibility of finding a lot of snow?
Do you think the drive is do-able till Chitkul/Kalpa in this weather, as it has already snowed in Shimla?

Also, we are all great foodies. Please suggest any known eating joints.

Also, please do provide with hotel numbers, reviews, links whatever possible.

This trip would be a thankful gesture of how grateful I am to my brother for the simplest of the things he does for us. Thank you all.

This year, winter seems to be bit harsher in HP than in recent years. It has snowed in Shimla, Manali .... I am not sure if you would be able to cross Narkanda in December end . And almost certainly, Chitkul would be unreachable by car.
As your idea is to see lots of snow, i think you should keep an open itinerary and go as far as the road and weather conditions allow.
Foodie 'food' would be available till Narkanda. Then you make do with whatever you get.

the road is blocked at Narkanda and its constantly snowing in Shimla and beyond.

I strongly suggest you rethink before taking the plunge. As Rishabh mentioned, the road at Narkanda is already blocked, even if it does open their is no guarantee that it will stay open. I was in Kinnaur in the January on 2005, while coming back I had to spend a night in sub zero temps. in my car as the road just before the ascent to Narkanda from the Rampur side was blocked with snow.

Was not a pleasent experience.

Visiting Kinnaur with your family is out of question. Plenty of snow in Kufri & Fagu. Lots of tourists now.

What made you take that plunge in January?

Thank you all for your quick replies.
I think I will have to keep the itinerary open as suggested by Rajeev and will hunt for snow till where ever possible.

However, could you please suggest good places to stay in Narkanda? I am looking for cozy hotels with amazing views and sitting area/lawns. A bonfire would be appreciable with BBQ (not a necessity).

Also, for a backup plan (we have got 5 days), please suggest places around Narkanda like, Jalori Pass (Sarolsar Lake), Tattapani, Naldhera etc. I am primarily looking for some off beat experience with minimal tourists around.

Thanks Again !

If you go by current news, U will get ample amount of snow in Kufri itself. My friend from Kufri told me that the town was in 3 ft snow on Wed. U would be traveling one week by now, so Shimla would be clear (If it does not snow any more.. which is likely), but Kufri & Narkanda snow would be still there.

Do not go ahead especially with family, as rajiv mentioned, winter is harsh this year. & in ur own car.. it would be even risky.. Take care.

To reach Jalori Pass from Shimla one has to cross past Narkanda which may not be possible due to deep snow. Another route via Mashobra, Tattapani, Ani is possible. Jalori Pass itself is under deep snow till March end. The other side of Jalori upto Banjar{??} is reachable via the main road to Mandi.

Could you please suggest places to stay in Narkanda, Mashobra, Tattapani and Ani?

I called up HPTDC Hotel Hatu at Narkanda and they are fully booked on 22nd and 23rd December '07. Also, as per theem, there is abt 1 feet of snow in Narkanda.
Most of the HPTDC hotels are booked in and around Shimla i.e. Chail, Narkanda, Naldehra etc. Could you please suggest something in Mashobra and other less crowded places around?

Narkanda Resort

a to z,

Maybe u don't get to Kinnaur, but here are the distances anyway:
Narkanda-Sarahan...106 km
Sarahan-Chhitkul.....116 km
Chhitkul-Kalpa..........67 km

Work your driving times out with 35 km/h for the first one, 30 km/h for the other two.

Hotels at Mashobra -
Hotel Rock Heaven is a very nice place. Had lunch there and saw the rooms. Nice large windows to catch the evening sun (if it's around). More info here.
Call them for latest tariff/booking - 0177-2740141, (0)9816056448, (0)9816256448.

Hotel Gables is in the bazar, albeit a small one. Quite fancy.

Naldehra is close by and also has HPTDC. Here's a few links to some fancy joints:
http://www.nivalink.com/golflinks/index.html
http://www.chaletsnaldehra.com/

hi Dilliwala, thank you very much for the info.
I checked the HPTDC website and all their hotels are booked on 22nd and 23rd. I am a little disappointed and confused between Shimla and Manali.
I called up a few places in Manali today. There is very almost negligible snow in Manali but Rohtang Pass is full of snow. However, It is VERY cold there. I want to keep it as a backup plan if in case we end up with no suitable place to stay in Narkanda around.
I could also consider Uttaranchal (Garhwal region) but It seems as if it didn't really snow there as yet.

Narkanda is all booked and we don't want to stay in Shimla amidst crowd. Could you also suggest something in Fagu? I heard there is 1 feet deep snow in Narkanda. However, I guess it would soon melt giving us some options to drive further and around Narkanda. After 24th Dec, I am hoping there would be less crowd and we can enjoy ourself. Also, I am hoping to keep the one day room rent under Rs.1000
Thank you

Hi again,

I only know the HPTDC places at Fagu and Narkanda. Have been inside both as part of organised bus tour, nice locations. But I'm guessing u've checked already for Fagu also, and it's probably full.
In your position I personally wud choose Mashobra and drive to Narkanda (50 min), but I guess u are keen to stay there. I'll suggest u use the search function in this particular forum (HP) and also in the Hotels forum for the places u wud like to check out. If u are able to narrow down some options, then do go ahead and post follow-up Q's, I'm sure someone will be able to help.