Nanda Devi trek - comments? (Sikkim/Darjeeling trek also)

D.B.

Here's a trek i'm most leaning towards right now. From what I know of the guy who will be leading the trek...I like him a lot. It's a 20 day trek through Nanda Devi from Oct. 31 - Nov. 19th.

Any comments are welcome. I'm still trying to make up my mind. If you are really into this you can look at the bottom and see the other trek I'm thinking of. It's in the Darjeeling region.

NANDA DEVI

First Up...Nanda Devi, a wonderful journey through stunning autumn India to the Mythical peak that challenged all the resources of Bill Tilman and Eric Shipton on their 30s explorations.

Nanda Devi Pilgrimage


The sacred peaks of Nanda Devi 7816m and Nanda Devi East 7434m cleave the skies in a remote corner of the Indian Himalaya, locked in a sisterly embrace on the border between the ancient kingdoms of Kumaon and Garwhal in the state of Uttaranchal. 2006 is the 70th anniversary of the first ascent of this mythical peak, the culmination of probably one of the last great epics of mountain exploration. This, then, is a good year to launch our treks here.

Our trek takes us from narrow gorges with rivers thundering far below, over snow bridges to high pastures, and the stone villages that were the homes of the pundits, the first real geographers of Tibet. And then to the peaks; we cross glaciers and crevasse fields to stunning views of the sisters, and their friends, Nanda Kot and Kat.

For lovers of the remote, and those wanting to linger and learn, rather then just pass through, this trek has it all.

The Trek
We split the journey up to this remote corner of India into two days; an overnight train to Kathgodam (first class!), then a night in one of the best hotels in Nanital; the next day we make the stunning drive to Munsiari. The early days of the trek are between three and five hours as we make elevation along the Gauri Gangar, then longer as we explore the side valleys and base camps. The trek is a winning combination of wonderful green valleys, and remote pastures and glaciers; and those views!

Day 1- arrive Delhi
Joel will be at the airport to meet you, look for the Project-Himalaya sign. We drive to our hotel in Parhar Gang, the main bazaar of Delhi, and over dinner, discuss gear and our adventure.

Day 2 - Train or jeep to Nanital 1938m
Depending on the size of the group we may take an overnight train, a day train, or a jeep. But by evening we are in the Grand Hotel, at the lakeside resort of Nanital at 1938m, a popular Indian holiday town.

Day 3 - Drive to Munsiari 2133m
On the road by 5am, and by 9am we will be breakfasting on parantha and curd high in the hills. The road is incredible, through forested hillsides and with distant mountain views. We arrive at our guesthouse at the end-of-the-universe feeling town of Munsiari, and a leisurely dinner. This is the end; of the beginning!

Day 4 - Trek to Lilam 1830m
At last - on the trail. A thirty minute drive takes us to the road head, where we meet our mixed team of horses and porters. A simple three hour walk today, but in these early days it is vital to cover up from the sun and drink lots of water: at least three litres a day. And your trek routine begins - you must carry snacks, water, sunblock, warm and windproof layers, and gloves and hat. Your passport at all times for checkpoints, and of course, loose cahnge for those trailside chai stops.
Our close companion for the next few days is the Gauri Ganga (river), and we descend to 1500m to follow it through hamlets. This section is low, and can be hot. An hour in the trail carves into the hillside, the first welcome shade. Then we climb gently to camp, and lunch, at Lilam, a scattering of houses on a hillside. Here you meet your home (s) for the next few weeks, your lightweight but roomy tent, and our dining tent.

Day 5 - Trek to Bugdiar 2500m
After completing formalities at the ITBP checkpoint we climb to nearly 2000m on the wide and well made trails that reflect India and China's recent good relations; the border is open for limited trade. As we climb, take time to scan the opposite hillside. Breakfast smoke marks many small dwellings set among terraces carved out on the slopes, so reminiscent of the hills of Nepal. In Autumn and late spring waterfalls arc out into incredible drops. After two hours of climbing with the roar of the Gauri in our ears, a welcome chai stall, hot and sweet in the shade. Then we ascend through galleries into woodland. Walk quietly and a sudden crashing will be a disturbed troop of Langur monkeys. We lunch at the tiny Paryatak tea house set into a cliff, then ascend through a spectacular water carved gorge to our camp at a river junction.

Day 6 - Trek Rialkot 3000m
Up...on a well built trail to the clearing of shepherd camps at 2755m, with stunning high crags all around. Now the altitude will make itself felt, so go slow and drink lots of water. In spring the trail blazed by shepherds en route to the high pastures lead over snow bridges. In October a few remain, like huge grounded icebergs. Now we see the first snow peaks ahead, and we pass wayside shrines to the mountaintop gods. After three hours of climbing we see a seemingly insane trail high above; yes, up there! This tops out to our first view of the 7000m snow peaks ahead, then a welcome descent to lunch. After this we have some gentle contouring on flood churned trails, and then we see the hilltop fort of Rialkot silhouetted against the peaks. Our camp, which we reach after a five hour day, is in the pastures beneath.

Day 7 - Trek to Martoli 3374m
A lazy day. The sun hits our camp late, and as we have a 200m ascent, but a two hour walk, we can linger over our fresh coffee and eggs as the sun dries the dew on our tents. Then a steep climb past crashing rainbow hued waterfalls to the deserted old trade post of Rialkot, before taking the left fork to the plateau on which Martoli sits at 3374m. This was once a vibrant trade post; now it sits patiently waiting for the trade to resume. Down valley we can see 5678m Shalung Dhura and 5000m Thamkau; our way leads west to the base of Nanda Devi east, peeking down valley above us.

Day 8 - Trek to Lwanl 3600m
Another easy day. Our destination, Lwanl, was not named by some wandering Welshman; the local dialect could be - even Lobsang took a while to master it! We climb first to the temple to Devi, where we leave a bell as an offering, and then we move around wooded hillsides to the river junction of Lwanl, a small - deserted - settlement. The villagers come up in June through October. The headman of this village above the Shalung Gad made many journeys to Tibet as a youngster, when the current Dalai Lama was still in China. He stays here well into winter and makes regular trips to Nanda Devi East Base camp to collect medicinal herbs. The peak that we see to our South is 6881m Nanda Kot, with it's neighbors, Nanda Bhanar and Khani.

Day 9 - Trek to Nanda Kot base camp 4100m
trail, and there is a reason we leave our horse team behind here. The trail takes care and attention, and the calf high grass makes it harder. The trail changes from year to year, and it seems to meander everywhere, so stay together, and follow Lobsang! An hour or so in we see the distant snowy wall that is the east wall of the legendary Nanda Devi sanctuary. We descend to the river, then climb gradually through the pastures of Nasanpanpatti and Ratangangal. After five hours we diverge from the trail to Nanda Devi base camp on a little used trail into a huge area that is very similar to the Annapurna sanctuary in Nepal. Wide pastures and the distant rumble of glaciers; and rocks falling as blue sheep scramble away. We camp, after six hours of walking, in a sheltered clearing at the base of the glaciers that sweep down from Changuch and Nanda Khat.

Day 10 - Trek up valley then to Nanda Devi east BC 4250m
A short hour towards Longstaff's col brings us to the most amazing mountain scenery; we have time to scramble up to 4700m and the views of the 7000m peaks all around. Lunch at camp, then we cross the moraine to Nanda Devi East base camp, another incredible location.

Day 11 - Trek to Lwanl 3600m
The views just get better as we return to our horse camp at Lwanl by a different route. We arrive for our rum ration...we have acclimatized!

Day 12 - Trek to Pachu 3750m
An hour or so brings us to Martoli, then we follow the valley to Pachu, at the entrance to the Pachu Gad, a little visited valley with views of 7074 Tirsul, and Nanda Devi. We camp in the village square, below the headman's house; the discerning trekker will spot small images to Nanda Devi carved over every door.

Day 13 - Trek to high pastures 4300m
The trail traverses high above the Pachu Gad with more lovely views of the sisters, Nanda Devi and Nanda Devi east. Our destination is a series of meadows below the peaks, ripe for exploring and wandering. We should be there after a four to five hour day. Sunsets here are incredible, and snow leopard prints everywhere there is snow.

Day 14 - Trek to Milam
A long but easy day, returning to the main old trade route to Milam, we move at five and will be in camp by three...because we want time to take in the views both up and down valley. Our camp is at Milam, as far as trekkers can go. It is the destination of many trekking groups, despite the fact that the glacier has receded and the views towards Tibet are pretty; but the real draw is Milam itself.

Day 15 - Rest day at Milam 3500m
Milam was home to the legendary Pundits, veterans of the trans - Himalayan trade, recruited by the British survey of India to undertake clandestine survey journeys into Tibet. They risked death in 19th century Tibet, and often had their results and stories discredited until the early twentieth century, when their results were proved to be amazingly accurate. With their notebooks hidden in prayer wheels, they passed as pilgrims as they mapped.
Milam on a sunny spring or autumn afternoon is a place to linger. A maze of long deserted alleyways and sun warmed courtyards that echo with ancient footsteps. Every corner seems to have something for the contemplative eye - a flagstone lined patio shaded by willows; ornately carved window and door frames with the Goddess Devi on most of them, and oil cans converted into flower pots among sun bleached sheep horns.
Today you can take an excursion up valley to the giants; or sit over a long lunch in one of the courtyards and commune with the spirits of Nain Singh and the pundits...

Day 16 - Trek to Bugdiar 2500m
Down, and down, and down. Away from the border of Tibet to the humid valleys. We leave at six, and arrive at four, on our return journey.

Day 17 - Trek to Munsiari 2133m
A long day, the only real one on the trip...but cold beer and hot showers await!

Day 18 - Drive to Nanital
We pull away at five AM, and the journey down country always seems to be the mythical first morning of creation; wind down the windows and smell the trees...and by three, Nanital.

Day 19 - Drive Delhi
Back to Delhi, a long drive so an early start.

Day 20 - Depart
To the airport and goodbye (for now).

EXCITING? I think so.

Here's the less difficult trek I'm also thinking of:

Trekking through the pristine and unforgettable Vershay Rhododendron sanctuary. First acclimatize and explore the rural countryside around Samthar ( Kalimpong) and Rinchenpong (West Sikkim). Forests, sunrise views, snow panoramas, Buddhist Gompas, terraced agriculture, ethnic villages, wild flowers, and interaction with people. Includes sightseeing and shopping at Kalimpong and visit to Pamayangtse Monastery in Sikkim. Then a six-day trek through rhododendron forest with great views of the Khangchendzonga Range.This is the highlight of the trip. The maximum altitude on the trek is 3696 meters on day 11 of the trip.
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Sikkim Entry Permit stamp on your visa: Mandatory. Apply for it when applying for your India visa
Sikkim Trekking permit: Mandatory we will arrange it. We will send you an application form

The trek/tour begins and ends in Bagdogra. There are daily flights on Jet Airways leaving Delhi about 10:00am. The fare Delhi to Bagdogra is about $250 one way (flight prices are always subject to increase). The return flight departs about 2:30pm and arrives in Delhi around 4:30pm.

Day 01: Bagdogra - Kalimpong, 1400 m
Arrive Bagdogra. You will be met by a car with driver and driven to Kalimpong. The 80 kms journey passes through the forested and scenic Teesta River Valley. Check in at the heritage Himalayan hotel, dating back to the days of the “Raj”, or Gurudongma House.

Kalimpong, is an exotic town of beautiful people, mystical and enchanting. Ruled by Bhutan for 155 years, and annexed by the British in 1865, it was developed as a center of the wool trade with Tibet. This trade flourished until the Chinese took control of Tibet, in the 1950's. The Lepchas, who were the original inhabitants, were subjected to Bhutanese, Tibetan, British, and Nepalese influences. A gentle and docile people, they have almost lost their identity, and are now called "the vanishing tribe." However history has left behind a fascinating ethnic blend of Lepcha, Bhutia and Nepalese people. Here Buddhism rubs shoulders with Christianity, Hinduism, and Islam. Gompas, churches, temples, monasteries, monks and missionaries all coexist in a jovial and tolerant society. Flower and orchid nurseries, colonial bungalows, churches of the "Raj" and Buddhist monasteries are there to explore. A quaint bustling bazaar is a Pandora's box of surprises. Kalimpong is a wanderer's delight. Buddhist thankas, hand beaten silver, Bhutanese weaves, Chinese lamps, hand crafted paper, Lepcha daggers, Nepali Khukris and Buddhist masks, are some of the shopping attractions. The Wednesday and Saturday "Haat," or village market, brings together people from surrounding areas, selling an amazing variety of products.

In the evening take a walking tour of the interesting bazaar. Overnight at your hotel

Day 02: Kalimpong, 1500 m
Kalimpong tour by car. Visit Buddhist Gompa, and view point, Catholic church of “Raj” period, flower & orchid nursery, Nature Interpretation center, Dr Graham’s Homes campus and chapel, and Deolo View Point. Overnight at your hotel

Day 03: Kalimpong – Lava – Lolegaon: drive and trek to Samthar Farm House, 1500 m
Drive 35 kms, in 1½ hrs, along old trade route to Tibet passing through virgin forests to Lava, a small bazaar and village, at an altitude of 2100 m amidst forested hills. It originated as a halting place for trade caravans going to Bhutan. It was fortified during Bhutanese rule, and captured and destroyed by the British during the Anglo-Bhutan War. A Buddhist monastery of the same period has been expanded and is active. At Lava you can view the Rachela Pass, which opens into Bhutan, and visit the Monastery. Drive back 4 kms to take the forest road to Lolegaon. Now you have the choice of taking one or both the Nature & Culture walks, described below.

If you choose walk 1, it starts after driving 6 kms to a village Buddhist gompa. It descends through forests to the waist of the hill, continues through hamlets, terraced cultivation and cascading streams to terminate at a village bazaar from where we ride our jeeps to the heritage forest (described below) to start Walk 2. Trekking time is 3 hrs

If you choose to take only walk 2, you will first drive for 25 kms, in 1½ hrs, through unspoiled forests with hardly any habitation. Enjoy nature at its best, and see the incredible variety of flora. After a picnic lunch and a visit to an over 100-year old heritage forest, take a short downhill trek, while your jeep traverses a wilderness trail. Trekking time is 2 hrs, and you will walk through the heart of the forest to a Tamang Village, cross a mountain stream, and reclaim your jeep for the last 6 kms to the Samthar Farm House. Dinner and overnight at the Samthar Farm House.
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Scenic and remote, The Samthar Plateau, at an elevation of 1500 meters, is surrounded by river valleys, terraced cultivation and forests. The inhabitants are a blend of various ethnic groups - Lepchas, Bhutias and Nepalis. The original Lepcha tribals lived in the valleys. They were woodsman and utilized the forest resources to live off the land. They worshiped nature spirits. When the Bhutanese ruled this land, many were converted to Buddhism. Later the British rulers brought in Christian missionaries who converted some of them to Christianity. Hinduism arrived with the Nepalese settlers, who also taught the Lepchas to farm the land. Today the ethnic groups live together in harmony. They have adopted Nepali as a link language, yet maintained their diverse cultural identity. It is an ideal place to peep into the lifestyles of this fascinating hill community. It also has diverse flora, well-developed mountain agriculture, forests, and river valleys, and offers breathtaking views of the panorama of snows. The Samthar Farmhouse is an old Lepcha house built of stone and timber, converted for comfortable living, while maintaining its ambience. It has a lovely nature garden with scenic views.

Day 04: Samthar Farm House culture trek
Get up early morning to the chirping of birds and the cry of the rooster to walk to the top of the terraced nature garden. Sit atop a rock and sip your tea, while you take in the breathtaking view as the sun rises and the first rays touch the snows. Weather permitting, you see the entire panorama of snows - Khangchenganga group of peaks, Simvo, Siniolchu, Lama Anden, Chomoyomo, and Paunhari, and then in an easterly arc the passes of Chola, Natula, and Jalepla leading into Tibet. After a leisurely breakfast, trek around the Samthar plateau for 3 hrs. Return to the Farm House for lunch. After lunch another 2 hour-trek to nearby hamlets. Meet people in their homes and fields to get a glimpse of rural lifestyles. In the evening sample local millet beer, "chang," served in traditional bamboo containers, in a lamp-lit atmosphere. Overnight at the Farm House.

Day 05: Samthar Farm House - Lepcha Valley trek
Another chance to view the sunrise. After breakfast take a full-day trek to remote Lepcha valley. See flora, birds, traditional Lepcha houses, and a 100-year old Lepcha temple. Meet people in their homes and fields. After a picnic lunch return by a different route. Dinner and overnight at the Farm House.

Day 06: Samthar Farm House - Teesta Valley trek - drive to Rinchenpong (West Sikkim)
After breakfast trek down to the Teesta Valley. You will pass through forests, terraced cultivation and hamlets. It will take about 4 hrs to reach the confluence of the Teesta and Rilli Rivers. Take a break for a picnic lunch. After lunch cross the Teesta River over a suspension bridge to the national highway. Thereafter drive to Rinchenpong in West Sikkim. After a short journey of just 15 kms, cross the river to register at the Sikkim entry check post at Malli at an elevation of 228 m. Here you have to carry out entry formalities. Keep passports handy along with Sikkim entry permits.

Inside Sikkim drive along the Rangit River Valley for 24 kms to the market town of Jorthang (300 to 1100m).Continue the drive to Rinchenpong a small village perched on a ridge. . Enjoy the flora, picture post card villages and views of the river. Climbing rapidly through a series of switch-backs the road takes you to the top of a massive ridge and your destination - The Yangsum Farm, 1500 m.

The Yangsum Farm is tucked away far from crowds, in idyllic countryside with a backdrop of the Khangchendzonga group of peaks and the sky-line of the Singelila Range. It is located in West Sikkim, two kms from the small bazaar village of Rinchenpong at an altitude of 1500 meters. At Yangsum you will stay at the heritage Farm House, built in 1833 and remodeled in 1966. Thendup Tashi and Pema Chuki of the Tsechu Tharpa family will be your hosts. You will stay in a spacious furnished bedroom with western style toilet and bath. The house has electricity and running water. The host family manages a 44 acre farm consisting of open mixed forest of pine, Himalayan alder, schima, chestnut, magnolia, rhododendrons, cherry, etc. It grows cardamom, avocados, oranges, bananas, pears, apricots and mangoes. Cultivated agriculture yields maize, paddy, millet, potatoes, ginger, turmeric and sweet potatoes. In addition to these, seasonal vegetables such as cauliflower, cabbage, tomatoes and peas are also grown.

Day 07: Rinchenpong: Village exploration walk
Enjoy the surroundings and views, explore local hamlets, take a short trek to Rinchinpong Monastery, Reshung Gompa and a Lepcha village. Try out home cooked Sikkimese food. Overnight at Yangsum Farm

Day 08: Trek Rinchenpong - Hi Barmoik
Trek from Yangsum Farm to Hi Barmoik village, 2200 m. It is a picturesque large village constructed of wood and stone, spread on the face of the mountain with a backdrop of forests. It is an easy walk for 2- 3 hrs through cultivation to the Lower Hi Barmoik Village. Here we will take time off to explore the village and meet the people. Continue for another 2 - 3 hrs fairly steeply uphill passing isolated houses to Upper Hi- Barmoik village and our camp site on the edge of the forest. Overnight in camp.

Day 09: Trek Hi -Barmoik – Vershay (also called Barsey)
Trek Hi-Barmoik to Vershay at 3000 m. Walk through mixed forests with rhododendrons and bamboo (5 hrs). Fairly steep all the way. Camp overnight in rhododendron forest.

The Barsey (Vershay) Rhododendron Sanctuary ( BRS) is spread over 104 sq kms. It forms a vital corridor connecting the Khangchendzonga Biosphere Reserve with the Singelila National Park in West Bengal. The altitudinal range of 2200m to 4100m supports a wide variety of habitat comprising sub-tropical, mixed broadleaf, conifer and alpine. During our exploration trips and birding tours we have recorded more than 200 species. Mammals inhabiting the park include leopard, leopard-cat, yellow throated marten, palm civet, goral, barking deer, Himalayan black bear, wild boar, red panda, flying squirrel, crestless porcupine, Himalayan mouse-hare and others.

Day 10: Trek Vershay to Jhorbotay, 3280 m
Trek 6 hrs from Vershay to Jhorbotay, 3280 m, through rhododendron forests. It is an easy walk. Overnight in camp located in a forest clearing with good views of Mount Khangchendzonga.
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Day 11: Trek Jhorbotay – Kalijhar, 3696 m
Jhorbotay to Kalijhar, 3696 m. First we descend steeply downhill into a valley with a small stream. Cross the stream and start climbing fairly steeply through mixed forests to a small meadow; where we camp above the tree line. Full views of the Khangchendzonga Range and all around.

Day 12 Kaljhar-Photey Dara – Chiabhanjan, 3275 m – Chitery, 2700m
Early morning trek to Phoktay Dara (30 mins), a view point with superb views of Kanchenjunga and Mount Everest.* Watch the sunrise and enjoy the panoramic views. Continue to Chaibhanjan, a pass on the India-Nepal border. Thereafter descend in 4 hrs to Chitery camping ground in a lovely forested meadow, 2700 m. Overnight in camp

Day 13: Trek Chitery to Uttery, 2320 m and drive to Pelling, 2200 m
Trek to Uttery, 2320 m in 1½ hrs. Drive 28 kms in 1½ hrs to Pelling, 2200 m and check in at hotel for lunch. Afternoon visit to the famous Pamayangtse Monastery. Overnight at hotel

Day 14: Pelling – Darjeeling
Drive to Darjeeling in 5 hrs. Check in at Hotel New Elgin / Cedar Inn / Hawks Nest Resort in time for lunch. Afternoon free to explore Darjeeling. Overnight at hotel

Day 15: Drive Darjeeling - Bagdogra
Drive 3 hrs from Darjeeling to Bagdogra for*departure flight to Delhi