Delhi/Agra/Varanasi/Shimla in...ulp...June/July?

missalg

Hi! I'm in early planning stages for a 16 day Northern India trip, and I'd love your views. The Delhi/Agra/Varanasi part is "for sure", Shimla for some cooler relaxing at the end, but it's all variable and any other "odds and ends" to fit in would be great.

I'd be flying in/out Delhi, most likely, as it's a direct flight from Newark. I'm looking at mid June to mid July for a sixteen day trip; this is the first spot where some advice would help, as in whether it makes much difference to leave, say, June 12 as opposed to June 30th.


I'll be traveling solo, 43 year old female who's traveled solo before and is well able to walk all day, not so much to scale cliffs.

My budget is about $50-100 a day, with the realization, of course, that some days that means $30 and some days, well, admission fees and transportation add up.

I like train travel, but will do the plane thing to eliminate lots of time spent in travel; overnight trains are good. I do prefer A/C comfort trains, but I can rough it. (the wooden loos in Soviet Russia come to mind.)

I've been traveling mostly to Europe since I was 19; in Asia, I've been to China (completely on my own; went to Beijing, Xi'an, Chengdu, Lhasa, and Hong Kong in three weeks--back when I had three weeks to travel, sigh) as well as Vietnam (Hanoi, Hue, Hoi An, and HCMC) and Cambodia (Siem Reap.) I've also traveled in the Peruvian rainforest. I'm into the nature/culture/history stuff, not so much the beach/shopping/nightlife.

Thanks!
Amy

Darmabum

IMHO, leaving June 12 or June 30 won't make much difference. As a five-timer to India, almost three years in country, the last two trips being six month stays in Varanasi and Varanasi only, it's only the difference between 100% humidity and 130% humidity . . . 115 degrees and 127 degrees . . . last year I was in Varanasi from February through August. Rain, real rain, didn't start til the end of the July, but it started cookin' (as in 100 degree temps and the same humidity) in June . . . Varanasi is magical, and maniacal . . . it's everything you've ever heard or read about it . . . I have lived a year there, and want more . . . Agra will have similar temps/humidity as Varanasi at that time . . . overnight train - Radjhani Express - is about 15 hours (or so) from Delhi to Varanasi . . . Agra about two/three hours by car/train from Delhi . . . for culture and history "stuff" you can't get much better in that span of time than Varanasi/Agra . . . with your budget you should, if you want, be able to dodge a lot of the heat/humidity . . . I suggest looking into the Ganges View Hotel in Varanasi . . . I stayed there for a month last year (my girlfriend got me out of my Rs 100 room for that month), great place, great management, great location - very close to the river, great views from the deck and from many of the rooms (we stayed in room #9) . . .

__________________
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mph

Hi Missalg
Im quite sure that dharmabum is much more of an expert than i about Varanasi but with your budget i would recommend the Scindhia Hotel. Dont think u can get a much better view over the Ganges than from their balconies or rooftop. Only downside i found was the quite uncharming restaurant but there are lots of nice restaurants in the neighborhood.
Enjoy your trip

dzibead

It'll definitely be stinking HOT at that time of year!

I just have a couple of specific suggestions. First, read The City of Djinns by William Dalrymple before you go. It'll change your view of Delhi, which many people arrive in and leave almost immediately, with a sort of "Help! Help! Get me out of here" attitude, without being aware that there are things worth seeing in Delhi itself.
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Second, on your trip to Agra, in addition to the obligatory visit to the Taj Mahal, also go to Fatehpur Sikri, which is not far away. Former capital of the Mughal Empire before it was moved to Delhi, now an abandoned "ghosttown" with fabulous architecture - should be just up your alley. Agra without Fatehpur Sikri can easily be done as a day trip from Delhi. If you include FS (highly recommended), then doing it as an overnight is better. Other than these places (and Agra Fort), Agra is not usually that high on the list of most travelers' favorite places.

Varanasi is an easy overnight train ride from Delhi. (I like to travel 2AC - two-tier air conditioned) People seems to have extreme reactions to Varanasi: they are either fascinated by it or they hate it. Personally, I don't think you should miss it. A boat ride along the ghats at dawn is a standard and I guess "touristy" thing to do, but it's spectacular. And remember, most of the other "tourists" you'll seen in Varanasi are Indians, not foreigners, and they're really pilgrims, not tourists as such. Wandering the tiny alleys in the old part of the city and finding your way to the Vishnawath Temple is fascinating. I like staying at Asi Ghat, which is the southernmost ghat and is a little quieter than those farther north.

As for Shimla and other hill towns like Mussoorie, they're OK, but my suggestion would be to go up to Ladakh for 5 or 6 days instead. The road trip is great but would take more time than you have, with only 14 days total, but you can fly from Delhi to Leh in about an hour and a half and I don't think the fare is prohibitive (can't remember, but for Ladakh, IMHO it's worth it whatever it is). Spend your first day in Leh acclimatizing to the altitude and then do day trips to places like Shey Palace and various monasteries like Hemis, Thiksey, and Alchi, etc.

So that's my two cents worth.

missalg

Y'all are flippin awesome. Thanks for all the wonderful info in such a short time!

I was in despair looking at small group tours and car/driver type itineraries ($5,000 for two weeks ) but this has given me fresh hope. With info like this, I should be ready...okay, let me rephrase that: from some of what I've read on the forum here, one can't really be READY for India, but at least I'll be pointed in the right direction...

Many thanks, and please keep your thoughts coming!

iwanttogoback

i am always amazed when i see ads for escorted tours to india and see the price they are charging! my first response is always 'but i could do it myself for so much less.'
i guess there are those who prefer the structure of a group tour, but if you are up to solo travel then there's no way you're going to need to spend $5000 for a two week trip.

some good advice above.

are you into the architecture stuff? if so, a side trip to chandigarh is well worth it for the architecture (le corbusier) and the absolutely fantastically wonderful rock garden http://www.nekchand.com/. you could perhaps do it as a day trip from delhi, or stop on the way to shimla. a further attraction, for me at least, was that chandigarh was far less touristy and intense than the other places i had visited, and was a good place to just catch my breath, relax, and gird my loins (well metaphorically at least) for the rest of the trip.

dzibead

Following up on iwanttogoback's post about Chandigarh: it's also possible to get flights to and from Leh, Ladakh in Chandigarh.

The hotel mentioned by Darmabum is also one I like. It's run by the family in their large, old haveli (they still live in part of it). They don't have a restaurant as such but they do fix an excellent buffet in the evening if you tell them ahead of time that you'd like to "dine in." As a woman traveling alone, I myself don't always feel like wandering out at night to get a meal, so having this as a option is a real plus. The food (vegetarian) is also very good. And sitting up on their terrace, or in the entry veranda, with a fresh lime soda (obligatory drink in India) is a good way to beat the heat. Here's their website: http://www.hotelgangesview.com/index.htm
It's not "budget" but I think it's good value.

There is (or was) also a very cool little toy store a couple of doors down the street from this hotel, with wonderful brightly colored wooden and paper toys, like tops, and birds and animals and sets of Hindu gods. There was a set of the avatars of Vishnu that I still kick myself for not buying ...

If you stay at Asi Ghat, look for Lolarka Kund (behind Tulsi Ghat, nextdoor), which is a well or tank reached by very steep flights of stairs. It's one of two sun-sites associated with the origins of Hinduism and is considered the oldest site in Varanasi - yet there's never anybody there, except during the Lolarka Mela at the end of summer, so it's kind of a spooky place to visit, even in broad daylight (or I found it so).

iwanttogoback

that looks rather nice dzi - do you remember the tariff? looks slightly more expensive than the R100 night room i had at a guest house down at meer ghat.

dlesli

Missalg -

When you return, please post about a visit to Varanasi as solo female and the parameters of where you felt safe - i.e., hours you were out, areas you were comfortable going alone, etc. Other solo females are interested.

Thanks - and have a ball!

missalg

Okeydoke, so now I'm looking at the possibility of Ladakh (and boy, it does look lovely!) instead of Shimla: this will probably be one of the points that I allow my students to vote on (what, your teacher never let you help plan trips?) so I'd love to hear pros and cons from anyone on this one. The acclimatization time might be a minus for Ladakh--I was fine in Cusco, not so good in Tibet, but it does indeed look like a dream. I'm assuming that the festivals in June/July in Ladakh mean that I should book early for flights/accommodations?

The Delhi (and I do plan to spend a few days there...looking at Delhi Bed and Breakfast?) Agra/Varanasi bit is pretty much a must, and Chandigarh certainly looks interesting. (On a side note, I thought Amritsar would be a great visit, too, but of course I am limited on my time.)

Bring on the options and opinions!

guerik

dlesli - I've travelled through Varanasi as a solo female and had no issues that I wouldn't have had in any other town in north India - just touts, touts, touts. More or less what the guys would get but with a few extra sari salesmen .
I was out after dark (though the streets weren't deserted, I was walking around markets etc on the side of the river mainly) and no real problems. I probably wouldn't have wandered around if they'd been unlit/empty streets, but as long as there are a few other women around I feel OK.

dlesli

thanks so much guerik - that's exactly what i wanted to hear. I don't want to miss good stuff because I think I need to be sealed up tight in the hotel by sundown, but of course will be as always careful.

what good news!

missalg

I'll be looking forward to Varanasi, but I'll probably be asleep by the time it gets dark!

missalg

Okay, the kids have voted: it's to be Ladakh!

Here is what I was thinking for a tentative itinerary:

Fly into Delhi on Friday night; stay at (Master Paying Guesthouse? Delhi B&B?) until Monday

MONDAY: fly Delhi to Varanasi: Ganges View Hotel? for three nights; sunrise ghat boat ride

THURSDAY overnight train from Varanasi to Agra (I think I remember reading that there was one...) In Agra, stay??? for one night; visit Taj, Fort, and Fatepuhr Sikri

SATURDAY Train Agra to Delhi; overnight in Delhi near airport? and early flight out to Leh

SUNDAY: flight to Leh; stay until FRIDAY at______, fly back to Delhi, flight out of Delhi on SATURDAY (or, since Delhi flight is late on Saturday, fly Leh/Delhi/Newark? or too chancey...)

Thanks for any input and suggested changes, even (or particularly!) if you tell me I'm a loon to plan this way.

ScarletLSG

Delhi B&B has been highly recommended by many users on both this forum and LP Thorntree. I think its definitely worth a stay based on the comments I've read.