Aug/Sept - 2 months in North West India Itinerary advice please

katcalls

Hi everyone!

Finally it appears I might have some time in India after pining to go for the last 3 years.

I will arrive and depart out of Delhi. Arrive the very start of August, depart end of September, maybe the first week of October, so 8 or 9 weeks. The only restriction to my schedule is that I must arrive back in Delhi for a couple of days between 1 and 15 September, but which of those days I get back to Delhi are totally flexible.

Because of this restriction, I envision 2 circle journeys through the North/West India. The first will be North (Amritsar, Dharamsala, etc). The second circle will be South of Delhi through Rajasthan.

Delhi (4 days)
Amritsar (3 days, 2 in city, one to border crossing)
Pathankot (transit)
McLeod Ganj/Dharamsala (4 days)
Manali (could drop depending on time) (2/3 days)
Shimla (2/3 days)
Dehra Dun (1½ day)
Rishikesh (4 days)
Hardiwar (1½ day)
Varanasi (4 days?)
Agra (1 day)
Delhi (2 days)
Bikaner (2 days?)
Jaisalmer (3 days)
Jodhpur (3 days)
Pushkar (2 days)
Udaipur (3 – 4 days)
Chittaurgarh (1 day?)
Bundi (2 days)
Jaipur (3 days)
Delhi

I’ve left some breathing room to allow for travel days etc. I am open to dropping a city or two in Rajasthan if there’s just not enough time. Any suggestions on which would be best left off my itinerary?

An Indian friend in Delhi has said that roads around this time of year (August) can get quite muddy and thus dangerous at times. Any comments on that?

I’m 32, female, and doing this solo. I just finished a graduate degree and am looking forward to some adventures before I start my next job. I’m well-traveled and most recently backpacked solo through the Middle East (Jordan, Syria, UAE, Oman etc). I last traveled in SE Asia about 10 years ago.

I don’t mind long train journeys (including overnights) but don’t relish long bus journeys (including overnights) but will do them if needed. My budget is flexible but I want to stay in cheap backpackers and not hire private transit between cities. If I need to pay more on a train, that’s not a problem. Don’t really want to rush, prefer to take a bit of time in good places. Approx daily budget excluding transport: Rps1200 – 1500.

The most important bits of my trip are Amritsar, Dharamsala, Rishikesh, Varanasi. I’m very flexible besides these cities. I really want to see the Ellora and Ajanta Caves but I don’t think that’s going to happen this time around.

Any advice greatly received.

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machadinha

*Bump* Can no one help Katcalls out on this one?

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katcalls

thanks Machadinda

I was was beginning to think that the itinerary was perfect so no one was responding! he he he

Since I posted I've decided on the following:

Dropped Manali altogether...many friends said it wasn't worth it.
Am considering reducing the time spent in Dehra Dun/Hardiwar as friends have said they are much the same as Rishikesh so why not spend most of my time in one place relaxing?
Also, some minor time changes in the Rajasthan bit, but nothing huge

I created the schedule based on estimated travel times and modes of transport. I think it's pretty do-able. [READ: hope]

bombaynight

r u ditching Ellora and Ajanta ! i thk u can choose one between manali & shimla ... u can drop Dehra Dun .. no need 2 give so many days in Rajasthan.

kristinm

Personally I'd spend longer in Bundi and less in Jaipur, if you find you have time, you could stop in Shekhawati between Delhi and Bikaner - Nawalgarth was a really lovely town and with fascinating painted havelis and quite untouristy. Also - Amritsar is a great place - but the border crossing will not take a full day - you leave at about 3.00 and are back by 6.30ish... that was winter - might be later in summer. So maybe 2 days altogether in Amritsar would be plenty - a day and a half in town and half a day at the crossing.

Also - we didn't go to Bikaner and spent 4 days in Jaisalmer, we loved it there.. we decided on one over the other and not both. Whether we were wrong or not I don't know!

You should also try and see Kumbalgarth and Ranakpur between Udaipur and Jodphur - we overnighted in Ghanerao, once again a lovely unspoilt village - a little on the pricey side in the castle, but very atmospheric.

Our other expensive nights were near Chottorgarth at Castle Bijaipur - really beautiful in a lovely valley, very rural ..ended up not going to the fort and just lounging by the pool!

If you drive between Bundi and Chittorgarth there are some amazing ancient temples along the way - one next to a gorge and the other with amazing Kajahuro style erotic carvings.

If you wanted to skip Jaipur altogether there are good trains between Kota (half an hour from Bundi) and Delhi - and then you could stay longer in either Bundi or Delhi.

Udaipur is gorgeous... not sure of your budget but Haveli on the Lake was great

Make sure you check the hotel reviews~..

ananda2193

Agree with the above suggestions. Bundi is nice so you might want more time there. I personally don't like Jaipur, but many people do so you might also. But your trip is doable. I would keep in Manali. You don't need to go to exactly to Manali, but around there are some nice quiet places. Never been to Shimla or Dehra Dun but I think there pretty big towns. Not sure if that would be very appealing. There's smaller, quieter palces.
But I know from experience that once you get there your plans will change, so don't make exact plans as once there you'll meet others who will give you advice on places that you should see. And maybe you'll find a place you really like and spend more time than you thought you would. JJust go with the flow.

katcalls

Hey there everyone,

A quick thanks for your advice. I've taken it all on board. I've reduced my time in Amritsar to 2 days, and tweaked my Rajasthan schedule as per the advice. I think I might try to put another couple of days into the smaller cities if I can.

As was mentioned, I'm fully aware that this plan will probably be thrown out the window as soon as I get there, but hey, it passes the time before I take off!

machadinha

Hi Katcalls,

I think as a rough plan it looks basically alright, and agree with all the tips you've been given. That first mountains stretch I have nothing to say on, haven't been there. Is this your first time there? You've been here so long, seems you're just another "old hand" Ah, the excitement! With your travel backgrounds I'd say you should have little trouble.

I mostly agree with just going by your plan and then adjusting it as you go along. People say this isn't so easy anymore with a view to booked-up trains, and I'm not sure how busy that time of year will be in those areas; what I do think is all or most of this will be well-served by buses, which make for good back-up in case all the trains are booked up (or often for good transport options in themselves, period, and I hear they are still far easier to get a hold of shortly in advance or on the spot even), and few of these will be mega-long stretches.

Enjoy!

katcalls

Hi Machadinha,

Yes, this is my first time in India. I thought I would get there in 2005 when I signed on but an amazing job in the Middle East came up. Since then I've had other things get in the way...another university degree, more work. Funny how these things elbow their way in. But it appears no longer! This trip is squeezed in between the end of my Masters degree and the start of my new job.

One more little detail to fall into place and I hope to buy my ticket tomorrow! I'm quite excited.

Thanks again to everyone for their advice.

kristinm

What's your degree? I'm just finishing mine 1 exam to go! We went in January and I was really glad we had booked everything ahead - the streets were full of tired people with backpacks looking for places to stay and everywhere was full, as a family it would have been a nightmare. But that's peak peak season ,and for Indian tourists too so different I guess.

katcalls

Hey Kristin,

My Masters is in International Relations. Nearly done myself! One essay, one presentation and one final to go! I'll be done by June 9th. I can't wait. I can't believe it's almost over. What about you?

Luckily I have friends who are in Delhi so I will stay with them at first. No pre-paid taxi dash from the airport for me! Should make life much easier.

kristinm

Me too - take home exam to pick up on Monday, due on the next Tuesday (Mon is holiday) and I'm done! What the hell will I do then... mine is Criminology - which Uni are you at?

katcalls

I'm at Macquarie...which is a pretty good uni. It'll feel good to walk off the campus though and not have to go back.

The answer to what you will do when you're done your degree is obvious....you go to India! ....would you go again?

Since I last wrote, the final chunk of my puzzle fell into place. I'm definately buying my ticket tomorrow. eeek!

katcalls

Hi all,

I was wondering if I could follow up with some questions? I'm beginning to look at booking train tickets now for the long distances, particularly Hardiwar - Varanasi as they are filling up fast.

I seem to have a few days to play with. Can anyone give their opinions on a day or two in Lucknow to break the journey? Is it worth a day or two spent there or should I just motor past to Varanasi?

Secondly, I was thinking of adding a day or two in Mandi to break up the journey between McLeod and Shimla. The guidebook and a few posts say it might be worth a stop. If there are any thoughts on this it would be appreciated....

Thanks as always!

machadinha

I seem to remember WonderWomanUSA really raves about Lucknow, just as a nice place with few or no tourists I believe, you could search around for it to see if that's correct. It's supposed to offer some good sights too I think.

Never been there myself, and Mandi I simply don't know about