9 days in Rajasthan

bones

Hello Indiaphiles!

I've got 9 days in Rajasthan with my girlfriend (who I haven't seen for quite a while), but am having a bit of trouble figuring out an itinerary. I'm looking at the following but would really appreciate your thoughts.

Day 1 (sat): Delhi-Mathura-Vrindavan (she really wants to go there); night in Vrindavan
Day 2 (sun): Vrindavan-Mathura-Agra; night in Agra
Day 3 (mon): Agra, night train to Udaipur
Day 4 (tues): Udaipur
Day 5 (wed): Udaipur

This is when it starts to get messy. I'm looking at two alternatives but they're a bit sketchy:

Plan A:

Day 5 (wed): Udaipur-Jodhpur. The problem being that there seem to be no direct trains or planes. The Footprint guide says that the bus is 8-9 hours on a rough road, which sounds neither pleasant nor romantic. But I went to Jodphur 10 years ago and loved it...
Day 6 (thurs): Jodhpur
Day 7 (fri): Jodhpur-Ranthambore (is this even possible? the Footrpint says that the 2465 Ranthambhore Express runs from Jodhpur, but I can't find it on www.indianrail.gov.in. If it's not possible, what else is nice between Jodhpur and Delhi? Maybe Pushkar, but I wouldn't want yet another long and gruelling bus ride)
Day 9 (sun): --> Delhi

Plan B (involves scrapping Jodhpur, which I'm a bit loathe to do)

Day 5 (wed): Udaipur-Bundi
Day 6 (thurs): Bundi-Ranthamhore
Day 7 (fri): Ranthamhore
Day 8 (sat): ??? (any ideas?)
Day 9 (sun): --> Delhi

I've included Ranthamhore in both options because it's on the way, but I don't think it's a must-see for either of us. Is there anything else that I should seriously consider instead, that's reasonably easy to get to/from?

I toyed with the idea of Ajmer and Pushkar, but it seems that it would take too long to get to/from there. And, having read all the posts of people being harassed by the pandits, I'm not sure if Pushkar is my thing. My girlfriend is into hinduism and spiritual stuff (hence Vrindavan), but all the fake, money-grabbing, side of the new age hippy trail really gets to me...

I've deliberately excluded Jaipur because I went years ago and hated the touts, scams, hassles etc (is Pushkar like that too?). but could re-think it if it's on the way and I need to break up the journey.

Thanks heaps!

Bones

Aishah

For trains going to Ranthambore, I found daily this one from Jodhpur:
1. Train 2466 - Jodhpur to Sawaimadhopur (which is the station for Ranthambore - I think it's around 10km away from the Park)
Departs Jod. 5.55a.m. Arrives 1.15 p.m
and it was on this website:
http://www.irctc.co.in/
I looked your website but it doesn't have that station (Sawaimadhopur) on it.
So it looks like you can do your original idea of train to Ranthambore.
If you could afford it, (around 2,500 rupees) a car to Jodhpur would be great - faster than the bus (btw the roads are not bad all the way) and you could visit Ranakpur temples on the way - they open at noon for non-Jains.

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vonkla

See this thread Udaipur to Jodpur - By car or fly? I have little time!
for different options between Udaipur and Jodhpur

As for the train to Sawai Madhopur according to http://erail.in/ there are two daily options.

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bones

First of all for directing me to that other thread (sorry I'd missed it before).

And second for recommending the car-hire via Ranakpur and Kumhalgarh. I would never have thought of it (is it really still just 2500? do they use decent cars?). Nor had I heard of Ranakpur... I'd visited the Diwara jain temples at Mt Abu on my last trip, but don't think I'll be able to squeeze it in this time...

Are the Ranakpur temples as (classically) beautiful as Dilwara, or are they more like archeological ruins (a different charm)? Is it worth stopping at Kumbalghar if I'm also planning to go to Jodhpur fort (or are they very different?)?

What do you guys reckon about Ranthambore? Should I consider other alternatives? eg Mt. Abu? (not sure how that would work - maybe see Ranakpur as a day trip from Udaipur, bus it to Mt. Abu, and train it from Abu road to Jodhpur). Or Jaisalmer? (night train from Jodphur and fly Jaisalmer-Delhi?) Or are there any gems (e.g. haveli towns) between Jodhpur and Delhi that I hadn't thought of?

Aishah

Vonkla - the 2nd train I didn't mention (No. 492 Jod - Bhopal passenger) because it is so slow. Leaves Jod. at 7.45 a.m. and arrives Sawai Madhopur at 20.25 p.m. btw - looking your link I'm not finding Sawai Madhopur on it in the drop down stations list?
Re car hire - yes, the cars are decent. For the cheapest price which I quoted, and my guess is it's not much different now, you can have a Tata Indica or Indigo, both comfortable for that journey. A larger vehicle will cost a little more.
Ranakpur temples are spectacular and quite different in style and look, to the Dilwara ones. These are intricately carved too, built in the 1400's, and feature 1444 pillars, each one different. Ranakpur and Dilwara are both considered as some of India's most important Jain temples. They are pretty much intact, not archaeological ruins. You could also combine Kumbalgarh in the one day - I've never been there, but people say it is good. From what I understand, different to Jodhpur Fort.
If you've already been to Mt Abu, I think better to see new areas myself.
Living in Jaisalmer myself, I'm rather biased! Yes, it is worth a visit too. Don't know about that plane though - haven't heard that anything is operating yet. Will go and check tomorrow as to the situation. There is an overnight train direct to Delhi from here. Leaves around 4.00p.m. and arrives just after midday.

vonkla

You are right Aishah it is a slow train.
As for the stations, if they are not in the drop down list you must select 'all stations' in the left upper corner. Then type the wanted station name and a new drop list appears.

Bones, as for the car prices, we had a fine Tata Indica, the price was that in 2007, maybe it has one up a little due to the rising oil prices. We will see that for ourselves in a couple of months.

Kumbalghar and Jodhpur are completely different and both worthwhile to visit. Since for non-Jains Ranakpur is not open in the morning it is a good idea to combine it with a visit to Kumbalghar.

Aishah

Thanks, vonkla, for that tip (you can tell I'm not all that computer savvy with getting my way around websites!!!) That particular site is good for finding trains and timings initially before booking on IRCTC.

bones

I'm thinking of scrapping Ranthambore (as it seems too long a journey from Jodhpur and noone really seems to rave about it) and going Udaipur-Jodhpur-Jaisalmer-Delhi instead. Alternatively Udaipur-Jaisalmer-Jodhpur-Delhi, but I can't find a direct train or plane from Udaipur-Jaisalmer (how about doing this by private car?).

Yet another alternative would be Jodhpur-Jaipur-Amritsar...



Should I economise a day in Udaipur?

Aishah

I think I'd be thinking the way you first mentioned in your last post. Use a car between Udaipur and Jodhpur. And do the Intercity overnight, Jaisalmer - Delhi train. I'm not hearing that planes are running yet. Also they will be very expensive - will try to find out for you in this regard. Map out your days - you can even do Jaisalmer to Jaipur on that same train if you wanted to look around Jaipur as well.
Up to you, if you want to see the Golden Temple, that's another choice too, of course. I wouldn't economise another day in Udaipur - you really should not rush from one place to another. See fewer places, stay longer, and it's more relaxing and enjoyable. Also you get a much better feeling for places this way.

bones

Aishah - I'd love to go to Amritsar (I think it's one of the best places in India), but the train from Jaipur doesn't run the day I need it (Friday).

So here's a proposed revised itinerary.

Day 1 (Sat): Delhi-Vrindavan, night in Vrindavan
Day 2 (Sun): Vrindavan-Agra, night in Agra (could be scratched?)
Day 3 (Mon): Agra-Udaipur, night in the train
Day 4 (Tues): Udaipur, night in Udaipur
Day 5 (Wed): Udaipur-Ranakpur-Jodhur (by car), night in Jodhpur
Day 6 (Thurs): Jodhpur fort in a.m., Jodhpur-Jaisalmer in p.m. (bus or car?), night in Jaisalmer
Day 7 (Fri): Jaisalmer, night in Jaisalmer
Day 8 (Sat): Jaisalmer, 16.00 train to Delhi
Day 9 (Sun): arrive Delhi c. 12.00

What do you guys think - it looks a bit tight... I could cut the night in Agra, and just squeeze in the Taj between Vrindavan and the night train to Udaipur (dep. 17.40). Or cut Jaisalmer (but go where instead? Mt Abu? any cute haveli places en route?).

To be honest, I'm so exhausted with this planning, I'm tempted to scrap the whole thing and just get a cpl of flights to Kerala (beach, backwaters, temples etc.). But I know that that's not going to solve any issues...

Thanks for all your help, anyway, and let me know what you think.

S

busybee007

hi Bones,
i think renting a car wud be comfortable for u.
1)indiaca nonAC 5-6 rs pem km,plus 150 rs for driver per day & state toll taxes extra.
2)toyota innova or any suv 12-13 rs/km plus 150 rs for driver per day & state toll taxes extra.
if ur going to rajasthan via mathura & vrindaban it will around
3100 km journey.
u can contact any car operater in delhi & bargain hard.i hav mentioned this amount coz i have recently visited rajasthan.itz normal amount they charge

bones

Thanks Busybee - I'll certainly look into hiring a car and driver for bits of my trip, but don't think I would want to do that for the whole time.

Also, I'm thinking I will skip Jaisalmer, relax a bit and take a bit more time out around Udaipur and Jodhpur.

E.g. in Jodhpur, spend a day to visit Osian (anywhere else?). And near Udaipur, go to Dungarpur/Somnath (1 day?), and Eklingji/Nagda and Nathdwara (1 day?) - thus making three full (but hopefully relexed) days in Udaipur. Have any of you been to these places and confirm that they're worth the time out?

Aishah

You could catch the overnight train to Jaisalmer - leaves Jodhpur at 11.15 p.m.or so and arrives at 5.30 a.m. in the morning. Buses are the other option, they go every hour and take around five and a half hours. (That's if you still want to go there!) I think the itinerary you've outlined above is all very doable, provided you get all your train bookings done asap.
If you rented a car from Jodhpur you can drive via Osiyan to Jaisalmer.
For Jodhpur there's the Fort, Umaid Bhawan Palace, Mandore Gardens, the markets around the Clock Tower area, a Bishnoi village safari - these are the main attractions I guess.
Udaipur - you could take a trip to Chittaurgarh Fort - this is interesting. I haven't been to any of the places you mention here so can't tell you about those.

steven_ber

I've just had a look through some of your posts and am wondering....

Udaipur ++ OR Haridwar/Rishikesh

You seem to be adding to much around Rajasthan and it's all starting to sound tiring.

Delhi-Mathura/Vrindavan-Agra-Haridwar/Rishikesh would be good.

That rules out Udaipur and Rishikesh.

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bones

Thanks Steven.

Actually, we're going to go to Haridwar/Rishikesh next weekend (i.e. a separate trip from the Rajasthan one).

I know that Rishikesh is fake, but the waterfalls and beaches are pretty, and - what can I say - she wants to do a holy dip in tha Ganga... Haridwar's a pretty interesting place from all angles.

Re Rishikesh - what's the name of the last waterfall (the one with the fine spray that's like a Timotei advert)? Could we get a jeep there and walk back. What's the name of the other waterfall (the one with the pool where you can get hydro-massaged under the waterfall)?

I didn't realise that Udaipur was also on the fake money-grabbing hippy-trail (I thought that was Pushkar?). I went 11 years ago and quite liked it, and other posts on this and the LP site seem to confirm it as a reasonably chilled romantic place to hang out.

Aisah - it's not that I don't want to go to Jaisalmer (I really do!) - it's just that time is short, too much travel will be too gruelling, and spending quality time with my girlfriend is as much of the deal as anything else.

Thanks again, to all.

Bones