2-3 weeks Mysore or Rishikesh; 3-4 weeks Himachal or Ladakh or Uttarakhand; June/July

acrosstheuniverse

It's my first time to India and I'm traveling alone for six weeks from mid June through July; I have a high budget ($30-100/day), and want to be modest, comfortable and safe in both accomodations and transport. Open to all kinds of transport, whatever's best for itinerary.

I know India is hot and wet in June/July and have gathered from IM and elsewhere that many of the places I'd love to go will be brutal at this time. I am probably pretty sensitive to heat but am going anyhow and want to pick places that will be as comfortable for the season as possible. Himachal Pradesh, Ladakh and Uttarakhand. But it also seems parts of Karnataka are ok too.

I'm not attached to any particular itinerary. I'm going to India to be in India more than to do in India. I don't want to feel more stress or pressure than traveling alone in a foreign country can cause. Want to flow. And would rather let whim and weather dictate my path.

When I first arrive I think I'd like to stay in one place for a bit to acclimate and get a sense of how things work, Indian culture, it's rhythms etc. I practice yoga and think a few weeks of yoga and meditation would be a great beginning of a trip!

So I am thinking of starting in either Rishikesh (fly into Delhi) or Mysore (fly into Bangalore) then head for the hills.

Questions:

1. Rishikesh or Mysore? Want to practice yoga, meet people, meditate, hang out, maybe take cooking classes, get some ayurvedic treatments.

2. On landing, do I go straight to Rishikesh or Mysore or spend a night or two in arrival city in a more posh hotel and then move on?

3. Where to go next? Trek or travel? Open to trekking but don't want to trek alone so would either want to hook up with fellow travellers or plan to be with a group trek. (suggestions for tour companies?) I'm not a hardcore trekker so probably can't do an intense altitude trek. I'm open to anything; Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, Shimla, Kulu, Manali, Mussoori, Leh/Ladakh, Dharmsala.

Suggested routes? Either way I'll fly out of Delhi so will need to end up there.

4. How much advance planning is required? Id like to be flexible so if i want to stay somewhere longer or leave sooner I can. How hard is it to make travel plans in India?

Thanks for your input!

unclelach

Rishikesh was a wonderful place to just chill when I was there in April last year. You could do all the things mentioned but it will be really hot there as the town is scarcely above the level of the plains.

The British resorted to the hill stations in June-July because of the extreme weather in the plains(or on the coast). There are many
hill stations particularly in the north. I have been only in Shimla, McLeod Ganj and Darjeeling. The latter two are known for high rainfall once the monsoon reaches them.

Mussoorie, not far from Rishikesh is said to be pleasant in the summer. There are plenty of other places to explore in the mountain states that should be delightful in summer.

Try to spend at least two nights in wherever you arrive. There are many dodgy local travel agents that prey on newbies so be careful. To reach Rishikesh, the express train can be taken from Delhi to Haridwar then an auto-rickshaw can be taken to upper Rishikesh. I prefer trains to buses but some people find the Volvo buses to wherever very good.
Some trains do go to Rishikesh but it can be quicker to go the last 20 or so kilometres by road.

Foreign tourists have a train reservation quota. I have always used the foreigners' booking office at New Delhi train station(upstairs). DO NOT BE DIVERTED BY TOUTS who will tell you it is closed or somewhere else. There are plenty of other IM contributors with vastly more knowledge and experience than I have. Will be very interested to follow what appears.

acrosstheuniverse

Thank you for the advice on transport. I'm torn by the reality of the weather and the desire to spend time in Rishikesh. Something is calling me there.

Do you know if there are any other places with a similar spirit on the Ganges that are higher up in elevation?

unclelach

Rudraprayag is an important Hindu pilgrimage village on a tributary of the Ganges. It lies beyond Devaprayag which is 71 km by road from Rishikesh. Devaprayag is where the Ganges proper begins being a point of confluence. These places are more elevated than Rishikesh but I don't know how much cooler.

I haven't visited places beyond Rishikesh but they can be reached by road. From reading I believe that Rishikesh is the last town on the Ganges that caters for foreign tourists who are not otherwise in an organised trekking or tour group. You can book a jeep tour of these places in Rishikesh which is a convenient base.

Note: solo travel in places not frequented by foreign tourists is risky. PEOPLE DISAPPEAR!

The Valley of Flowers is a place I would visit should I be in that part of India during the summer. A good guide book would be useful but there will be people in this forum who have first hand knowledge.

acrosstheuniverse

"PEOPLE DISAPPEAR!"
Good to know. Definitely not interested in that.

Do you know of any good trek or tour groups?

jyotirmoy

Have you read the posts on Kumaon?
July is not the time for treks as it rains heavily.
Ladakh is wonderful during July.

spicetrekker

I am not sure what is meant by saying that people disappear and the fact Rishikesh is the last town catering to foreign tourists??

The Ganga is a confluence of two main rivers Alakananda and Bhagirathi, into each of which flow no of tributaries. You can pretty much continue upstream from rishikesh along either of these rivers and reach Badrinath (if u travel up Alakananda) and Gangotri on the Bhagirathi side. All major towns will have decent acco available. In fact GMVN will have resorts in all along these routes and you can book these online. The Valley of Flowers is on the Alakananda route before Badrinath. So besides Yoga what interests you as the paths I have described are largely pilgrim trails and do offer good trekking options. Mind you this is only Garhwal (that to only a art of it); you can go to Kumaon (which along with Garhwal forms the state of Uttarakahnd) or Himachal or Ladakh. Do let the people on the forum know what interests you and I am sure you will get good and "safe" advice

I think if you take reasonable care as you would do in your country you will not vanish or disappear - the only stories I have heard of people vanishing in the hills of himalayas are in the Parvati Valley where drugs are a in thing... so dont worry and enjoy your time.

acrosstheuniverse

Thank you. I'll look into the towns suggested.

Pilgrim sites, yoga, and treking are all interests. I would not want to trek alone though. I treked with a group in Nepal for a few days a few years back and I know I need to be in a group and probably would need help carrying my gear. I'm not (yet) in serious treker fitness shape.

I don't need to river raft. Wildlife is incredible to see... I had considered volunteering somewhere but so far have not found any options based on my location/time frame. Mostly I'd like to spend time in places that are interesting themselves and be able to wander around and explore.

I am definitely interested in spiritual India. I am far more familiar with Buddhism and have practiced vipissana but am really keen to spend time with Krishna and Shiva and learn more about Hinduism as well. A mix of both holy places would be ideal. I tend to be a spiritual junky though, so suggestions outside that realm are welcome as I am working on having fun too. Not that meditation isn't fun, but I mean fun with other people too.

And I will be careful. I live in Los Angeles so I have some practice at it. Thank you for the reassurance.

AvidTrekker

Follow your heart. If your heart says Rishikesh, go for it. Most of us get this "calling" and we ignore it due to "Worldly" reasons... and subsequantly regret it.

Temperature in Rishikesh will be a max 95 deg F in daytime June. Mostly it will be around 88 deg F. June is hottest, July and August are cooler.

There are places, sure... but NONE with the spirit of Rishikesh.

Gangotri is very high up at 3042m or nearly 10,000 feet altitude... the last place where the road ends. Max temperature will be 70 deg F in June (avg 64 F) and will get cooler from then on It will have MORE than the spirit of Rishikesh but much less of creature comforts. On your first trip, creature comforts are important, or so I believe.

Read a description about Rishikesh at this link.

Only Partly true... Yes, where and in what circumstances?? In terror-driven Kashmir and drug-driven Parvati Valley. I have trekked in Parvati Valley for 15 days in 2005 and discovered that all the "disappearances" {some 5 or 6 so far} were actually "gangland killings". If you are NOT in the drug trade, you are totally safe. There were many young females in my 2005 trek-group and they will not hesitate to go back again.

Ignore the "disappear" part for reasons stated above. Trek groups are many. Depends on when and where you wish to go. Also depends on your previous trekking experience and current-trek expectations. The trekking Forum on Indiamike has a huge amount of information of trekking in India. You could read up some of it.

Most trekking in India is done by taking hired help from porters or guides and/or ponymen. These can be arranged from a very low budget (10 dollars a day) to a very high budget (150 dollars a day). Since Nepal style "teahouse trekking" is not developed in India, much of it is done by hiring trekking staff. There are a few so-called "tea house" treks though. Accomodation is not as fancy as Nepal, just a smoky dhaabaa serving you daal bhaat and Maggi instant noodles.

All the exclusive treks are done with trekking staff. There are many routes to choose from. Around half of these are outlined on IM.

Rishikesh and Gangotri are both good for this

Himachal is a very good "mix of both holy places" especially Manali town and Kinnaur district. But you will not get the Yoga and ashram ambience of Rishikesh at these places. Mcleodganj has Yoga but is more "Buddhist" due to His Holiness the Dalai Lama's august presence.

If your heart is calling you to Rishikesh, just go for it.

Coming from LA, you will find Rishikesh very serene and quite tame... no apprehension at all !!

Welcome to India !!

Enjoy your stay and HAPPY TRAVELS
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__________________
The Universe is an ellipsoid?... or a Spheroid?? If the sphere smiles... it becomes an ellipse. This IS Creation.

unclelach

As I'm essentially an armchair trekker I can mention only what others have written. Garry Weare's books are worth a look as he wrote Lonely Planet's Guidebook "Trekking in the Indian Himalaya" and a personal trekking account "A Long Walk in the Himalaya: A Trek from the Ganges to Kashmir" (2007).

Garry Weare is a very old hand amongst foreigners who love the Himalaya. He has been associated with the commercial trekking company, World Expeditions, for many years. See that company's website for trek information - www.worldexpeditions.com

I have travelled in India either independently or with a tourist tour company. Have never faced up to trekking unfortunately.

acrosstheuniverse

Did you like the tour company you traveled with?
Which tour company was it?

Checked out Gary Weare. He leads a trek in June July though Ladakh that could be cool. Going to dig deeper on this.

Not sure if I qualify for a moderate trek. It says "will test your resolve, for even in July there may be snow."

How does one pack for that kind of temperature range, from 110 in Delhi to 20 in Himalayas?

Thank you. It does and I will. I may push trip to end of June so if July is cooler that's a plus. I actually love rain, although not sure if monsoon rain resembles Pacific Northwest rain... Is the rain often prevent doing things or just occasionally?

I concur. I'm guessing that there will be plenty to adjust to even with the creature comforts.

Did you travel with a company or a group of friends and hired a porter? If company, which one?

And I will check out the trekking forum for some options. What's the best way to find trek group suggestions? The threads seem to be organized by location...

Thanks!!! I can't wait!

acrosstheuniverse

Hadn't checked out Kumaon. Thank you for suggestion. Looks like a there are a lot of amazing options there too.

Would you rule out trekking in July altogether?
Even in Ladakh?

Thanks!

AvidTrekker

Is it the "Hidden Valleys of Ladakh" trek given at this link?

It rains or rather pours in buckets at the lower altitudes. Not that much in the Himalayas. Once in a while roads and bridges get washed out and things get back on track after a day or two...

This can be discussed via PM only. Not on the Forum. As a new member you will qualify for sending PMs after 10 posts and 15 days on IM. You will qualify in a coupla posts... so PM me then.

Read up the posts in the last 45 days or so. Some people have posted intended trek schedules etc. and may be seeking trekking partners. Or make up an itinerary of your own and post in the Forum here.

The trekking season for high altitude passes is a mere two months. From 15th July to 15th Sept. Now Global warming is stretching it 15 days on either side. It doesn't rain as hard as the plains on treks above 8000 feet. The very best time for such treks is from 20th August to 15th September.

When we had to stop for two hours because of heavy rains in July 2006, we felt that it would have been better to have continued walking (climbing) so that our bodies remain heated up. Again this was in the Great National Himalayan Park, (GNHP) one of the wettest areas in the Himalaya.

The trekking season for low altitude passes is from 1st May to 30th October. A full five months.

Ladakh is a different terrain altogether. Its a high altitude desert. Stark. No rains at all. (barring the rare cloudburst in 2005.) Trekking season from 1st May to 30 Sept. (now stretchable by 15 days on either side). The temperature in July-August can hit 104 deg F in the day and drop to freezing (32 deg F) at night. Even brown-skinned Indians get severely sunburnt.

The Chadar trek on the frozen surface of the Zanskar River (Ladakh) takes place in February. Even here, the river was not properly and fully frozen in 2007. (global warming?)

For trekking on your own, you can go on the so-called "tea house" treks which are very few in India. Accomodation will be very basic (smoke filled dhaabaa) and food will be Maggi instant noodles and eggs at most places.

Organized treks can be done anywhere anytime. Vast choice available. This year my trekking friends have also gone trekking to Kashmir, the terror-stricken state. I will get their feedback by 15th June.

There are many unexplored areas. Kinnaur and Spiti for example. Hardly any trekkers go here. Then again, they do the popular routes. Some trek-routes here have seen activity by a mere handful of trekkers and some places none so far.
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abid_javed

hi there, I dont mean to confuse you futher. but since you say that you are not in the best of shape for trkking in the higher passes of the mighty Himalayas, you can consider trying a jeep safari... this is a great option as you can explore places like spiti valley and most of Ladhak region.
I am from Bangalore and well traveled round Mysore... I think since its your first time to India you must consider rishikesh and must venture into the mountains, I can asure you that you might have not seen anything as spectacular as the Himalayas.
well, good luck. hope you make the most of your stay in India.

unclelach

In December 2000 some Australian friends and I took a nearly four week tour of North India and Nepal with Gecko Tours. The tour was low budget backpacker adventure style and transport was by train, local bus, jeep and mini bus. Accomodation was around one star but mostly very good at the price. The holiday was one of the most enjoyable I have ever taken.

The winter weather was perfect for Rajasthan and elsewhere in North India as all places visited were at low altitude. Even in Nepal it was warm at the Chitwan Park in the Terai. Kathmandu was cold but sunny.