My First Solo Trip to India

Yes, Peak. It's a really scary world out there. Best you just stay at home.

Or travel just by 5-star facilities, of course. The sad thing is that would be true if it weren't the case that it's not at all impossible to run up food poisoning etc. there.

I'll give my bet to an obviously busy and popular common joint any time over those iffy buffet deals standing around forever.

At least in the former, you can normally see what's going on in the kitchen and if the personnel look a little healthy, whereas in the latter, you have no idea what's going on backdoors.

This is of course not a joke, either: The latter so classier variety is really where people often fall sick. I'd not so easily expect this at a top range, but say at a lower to middle range trying to cater to foreign tourists, yes, can often be pretty iffy. If anything, they'll be less dependent on a steady and returning clientele, and then many foreigners may assume it's only "natural" to run up something there, so not complain so soon.

I'm sure this could be extrapolated to your friendly Radisson's barber, just as well.

Sorry, I had to respond. If you see a blade being cracked into two, then it is new. Only one half is normally used, the barber might use the second half on the next person who will not see it being cracked into two. So he can get paranoid. That's why many of us Indians go to a barber who we can trust.

Mmm, am worried about you boys having shaves now...my husband regularly cuts himself,
and bleeds a bit as he's on aspirin.
So, blood to blood...as dangerous as tattoos! Aren't you are risking Hep C contamination?

Never take for granted a hot shower. It's such a simple luxury we often take for granted. What a fine way to start another day in India.*

I'm having breakfast on the rooftop. Above me in the neighboring houses the monkeys are fighting over scraps of food. There must be a dozen or so foraging for food. *Below me the dogs are fighting just for the heck of it.*

The cook gave one of these monkeys a banana, that or he helped himself. He quietly ate it before bounding out the restaurant providing a show for the startled patrons.*

The Ganpati GH rooftop restaurant is a great place to sit and enjoy a cup or two of chai. I guess that can be said of any rooftop restaurant on the banks of the Ganga.*

A young American couple just sat down to breakfast. You can tell they just arrived. They don't know which sight to take in first. They are in awe of Varanasi.*

Me too.

If Varanasi is a dump it has to be the best dump in the world.*

I just saw a man with a bed on his head. It was one of the wooden framed, woven mat beds. He had it balanced perfectly on his head and was strolling down the ghat. As usual, my camera was in my pocket. Nuts.*

Thank goodness for digital photography. I would have used up ten rolls of Kodachrome by now. Then I'd have to have them developed. With digital I get instant gratification. I can then send that picture to my friends and family just as soon as I find a functional wifi or 3G signal. No easy task.*

My sincere apologies to anyone holding stock in the now bankrupt Eastman Kodak company. *

I was woken on several occasions last night. My phone signaled I had new messages. But I had no signal to retrieve those messages. Funny how that works.

Miracle of miracles, the Ganpati GH wifi is up and running. I'm wasting no time uploading my videos and pictures. I got to read and answer those message I received in the middle of the night. I thought I explained the time differences to my children. Guess not.*

Well, I relented and wondered down to the burning ghat. I'm glad I did. I met a man that told me so much. He showed me the holy fire that has been burning over 3000 years. Next to it was the grass the head mourner dips into the holy fire. Then he uses the grass to start the fire.*

There is much more to it than that. It starts with washing and preparing the body for cremation.*

It's a long story and one I really enjoyed. It is very ritualistic. Every *action has a meaning. *

Many bodies were in the process of being burned.There was no odor as you might well expect. He said more than 200 bodies are burned daily. It can cost the family anywhere from 10,000 to 30,000 rupees for the wood. *

Once the burning is complete the remaining bones and ash are tossed in the Ganges. Several gold panners are gathered at the place. They pan for gold and silver from fillings and any jewelry that might be in the ashes.*

Then this nice man hit me up for rupees to buy wood for the poor. I really hope that is where the money goes. It could just line his pockets.*

Regardless, I had a very enjoyable experience and had a chance to wonder down more narrow paths. More bodies on stretchers were coming down the path as the family chanted. The fires burn continually.

Just as my hip was about to punish me I happened on the Ganga Fuji restaurant. Just in time for lunch. Vegetable ramen and a Sprite. My hip is liking the respite.*

Ganga Fuji is pricier than the Ganpati restaurant. I still got by for 100 rupees. Life is good. So was lunch.

I'm shocked I was able to find my way back to the hotel. It really is maze of walkways.*

I still had my morning shave. That would be my rotten luck, getting aids without sex.

Really enjoying your posts,Drews60, keep em coming!

Thank you so much for sharing your experiences, Drew! I enjoy reading your posts, I almost feel like I'm there! Please be careful about your shaves, now I'm a little worried for you, too.

Please keep the posts coming - I'm enjoying your adventure!

Thanks DaisyL and everyone for your comments. I do appreciate it.

India is amazing. I'm so glad I made the decision to come.

Drews, don't worry! (HIV is dead as soon as it's cold! You'll really need to have sex to catch it). But do be careful.

I agree with Daisy, your daily epistles are wonderfully written, the accurate simplicity conveys the atmosphere perfectly.

3 days to go here, the fridge/freezer is bare, now having to walk to restaurants for nice long lunches.
The exercise is invigorating!

I was out in the main street when I heard the drums. I figured something was going to happen and got out the camera.*

A wedding procession and this time I was prepared. Got it!

Afterwards my bones were aching for a rest and some chai. I got my cup and sat down. An old haggard looking holy man took the seat beside me. He had no chai. Like me he just needed a rest. I put my iPhone camera on backwards and got a shot of us together. It's tough saying who looks the most haggard!!

Sitting on the train tomorrow will be a well deserved rest for my legs. The Varanasi station was crazy when I came in to town. I hope to have an hour tomorrow to check out the madness and get some great pictures. *Then Monday morning we pull into Howrah station. That ought to be AMAZING. Plus I get to cross the iconic Howrah bridge.*

Walking back down the narrow lanes a man ducked into a corner, whipped it out and had a pee. I was relieved he didn't need to poop. *

Some school boys were playing when one asked me the name for his toys, marbles. He smiled and was happy to learn a new word. I smiled, I was glad he asked. *People here are so much friendlier than I anticipated.*

Baba's School of Music has a voice student. He's rather good. I enjoy listening in on Baba's.*

Hmm, the laundry I dropped off for cleaning didn't make it back tonight. I'm leaving tomorrow. This could prove interesting. Luckily India is used to naked old men. I won't get a second glance.*

I'm very happy with the Ganpati Guest House. (aside from the laundry) I was in room 7, an inside patio room across from reception. I paid 1000 rupees a night, $20.

The room has a large bathroom with a large shower, sink and a western toilet. *The sink just had cold water. That was okay by me as my shaving is done in town. I just needed it for brushing my teeth.*

I think all this tea is turning my teeth darker.*

The shower never failed to deliver warm if not almost hot water. I always carry my own wash clothes as no hotel to date has provided one.*

I went to Walmart and bought a package of ten wash clothes, $2.97. I just leave the wet cloth behind.*

The bed is large and hard as all have been to date. Lots of covers are provided for these chilly nights.

The room was much nicer than I anticipated for my meager $20. I keep my expectations low. Then I'm pleasantly surprised rather than sadly disappointed. This tactic, zero expectations, *sure made my life easier.*

I was flipping through the channels. They had the History channel, National Geographic and Nickelodeon to name a few. It was a kick watching Austin Powers and Bugs Bunny in Hindi.*

If you come to Varanasi go to Ganpati Guest House restaurant and order the special thali. It is exceptionally good.*

Varanasi really is a wonderful city. I'm glad I added an extra day to my itinerary giving me four days here.*
I'm also glad I didn't let anyone scare me off.*

As a people watcher I certainly enjoyed the constant parade of people and animals. When Alzheimer's kicks in I hope India is the last memory to be erased.*

Make that second last. I want to remember my family forever. *

I read an article in Sundays paper listing the happiest people in the world. India came in second behind Indonesia as the happiest. I can see why. The people I have met are very friendly.

Yo Drews:

I have a street shave every morning I'm in India followed by Chai. I hate shaving always have and i'm bad at it . I shave like the SAS mown the lawn . As I'm bald i'd like to turn my head round so no shaving but i would look more stupid with hair.

Hope I take to Varanasi like you - after a lot of reading here it was close but i kept my 4 days there in my intinary.

Only 2 weeks tomorrow to the plane to Delhi.

Take it easy
Paul

Paul,

I think you'll love Varanasi. It's a city like no other I've seen. I was just thinking the next time I come I'll have to spend a full week.

Since 2008 I am always thinking about the next time - you have got the bug.

Friends always ask me WHY India.

I say I don't know and when I find out I find out I won't go anymore. It may take a while

A few boys started the day by flying kites. I can hear the rustling of the tissue paper thin kite as the boy yanks on the string trying to make it fly higher. It's a great way to start the morning on the banks of the river Ganges.*

The monkeys must have slept in. None are in sight.*

I can hear the train horns in the distance. Today is moving day.*

I checked out at*10AM. I can keep my luggage at the front desk. I can hang out in the common areas until 3:00PM when I need to navigate the narrow alleys one last time. On the main street I'll make one of the auto rickshaw drivers a wealthier man.*

Then it's off to Kolkata on the Amritsar-Howrah mail train. The same train I arrived in four days earlier. It was two hours late. I hope it's not running too late today. *I never like getting too far from a known western toilet. You never know when that special thali might explode.

My boys would borrow my car. Somewhere on the road they would turn and look at each other and say " how fast do you think it will go". And off they went. They were ticketed once for speeding, doing 96 MPH in a 55 MPH zone. *This in my under powered V6 pickup truck.*

They wondered why I wouldn't let them drive my Corvette.*

Today on the river five boys were in a boat. Let's say it was dads. At one point they must have looked at each other and said "how fast do you think it will go". One boy on each of the four oars and one on the rudder the race began. They were flying down the river in dads boat.*

Boys!

Damned camera was in my pocket. I almost missed a picture of these guys.*

A woman is on the banks of the Ganges washing clothes. She dunks them, scrubs them, dunks them and raises her arm and whips the clothes on the stone steps, whap, whap, whap. *Just like her mom taught her, and her mother before her for untold generations.*

At least it's not entirely woman's work. A man was a few yards up river washing his clothes too.*

A man was washing his three young children in the Ganges. Dunk them, soap them up, scrub. No whapping needed.*

*Baba's School of Music is really rocking today. At first I didn't like all of this drum beating and carrying on. I guess Baba just grows on you.*

I'm sorry, I couldn't help myself. I just had to have the special thali one last time. It's that good.*

My laundry arrived. Whew! I was worried for a minute. I didn't want to be down to two shirts. These were bought just for the trip. They have two breast pockets with flaps and buttons. My passport goes in one and my wallet in the other. If I go someplace crowded I'll put my light jacket on and zip it up. It will have to be one agile pickpocket to get to the goods.*

The auto rickshaw trip to the train depot was far worse than the one I took arriving.*

It was daylight and I could see the oncoming traffic. Jesus, Joseph and Mary!