Journal of india, starting now!

Digital Drifter

& I was thinking all along, losing & finding my mobile phone was excitement.

I think the US Gov. War on Drugs is a total failure from a advert POV. This man thrives on weed and is clearly lucid under it's influence.

For the record, Wazen is absolutely, batshit crazy; just the person you want to go with on your travels!!!!

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Click here for the Indiamike train guide in PDF

MeCasa

Wazen has three distinct abilities (among others I'm sure); one is to trust enough to experience other people

Two is the ability to enjoy everything around him and turn what most people would consider a nuisance into an adventure

And three is the ability to translate the adventure into a fine essay for his own enjoyment and the enjoyment of others

Carry On

8al0ha8

Beautiful...you are truely amazing. Im so relieved to know that youre safe. Can't wait to hear more of your journey. I love you...

jjacquemain

I must say this is the best thread I have had the honor to read in quite a while.
You have a wonderful gift to paint a picture....Please don't stop as I can't wait to continue the journey (we all seem to be on with you).

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There is no defense against chaos~

MeCasa

Hey, hey, hey, I think we're heaping to much praise on poor young Wazen and it might go to his head, get a job ya damn unemployed potheaded hippy roustabout

8al0ha8

haha....if only you knew....

Nick-H

Yep; now that I am alone in the house, able to read such a lot without committing wife-neglect.... wonderful stuff! I'd buy the book; no hesitation

The Indian tooth brush, by the way, is a twig from the Neem Tree, which has all sorts of medicinal properties.

I'm awaiting news, now, of your settling down with one of these beauties, when you find one who does not want a green card. Looking forward to your stories of visa conversion, residents permits and living in India!

Wazen

Thinking back to arriving in Vaishali, the small paved road leading to the important sites were boarderd by the poorest people, everyone living in straw huts. A beautiful young girl about 19, dressed in colorful rags, was sitting in the hot black road, molding fresh cowshit into flat patties used for fire. The children were extremely dirty and poor, yet thier culture and appreciation for life was apparent through thier endless smiles, interest and laughter.

The ShriLanka temple by donation only was a god send, with an 8pm cerfew, understandably.
Remembering back to the moments before dusk,a nice walk toward the main road to explore the place hit the spot. Within seconds of passing the same straw huts and happy children, an elderly man offered me a ciggerette and chai. Its hard to believe such a small gift is a nice chunk of his daily wage, probably 10% or more. He was happy to give, although I had to part ways early, for Puja was at 6:00pm.
Just making it back in time, the monk was waiting for me! We sat together infront of a golden sitting Buddha shrine, offered our bows with a different form and gesture, and soon the rythmatic tibetian style chanting filled the hotel. Hands together, in meditation, feelings of graditude for all the blessings recieved flowed through my body, the chanting vibrating within, flowing together like a crystal clear river.. Words cannot describe.
Ending the chanting with a sincere thankyou, we smiled together as he gestured allowance to begin my chanting. Although he did not attend another Puja, his kind heart was busy making dinner for us all!
Along with the aformentioned guide from Lahdak were a few South Korean tourists, whos country coicidentally seems to dominate the tourist economy in India. The free meal was simple, filled with watery rice, seaweed, fruits, potato, and with simple Korean style dinner elements it was a refreshing taste of home! (Hawaii has a big Korean population). After dinner and a smoke, the next day awaited me with an intense, unexpected advenure through the "off the map" villages of Bihar!

Waking into the late morning, washing socks before eating, the day started with another walk around the small lake that the village surrounds. A few straw-hut style chai & snack stands dot the perimeter of the dirty water, in which the locals bathe. Looking everywhere for food, it takes an hour before finding some Samosas and water, infront of the beautiful white marble Japanese temple. A group of elders in thier 40's and 50's sat around the normal 20 person crowd attending the rare sight of this wierd foriegn face. But eventually settling down as the fresh food was presented, the older crowd offered me to smoke some Chillum. Though the temple attendand forcefully declined thier offer for me, and that was understandable...
One of the men keeps feeding me sweets with his hand, which by this time, wasnt suprising...
They would walk up to me, bow down and touch my feet, and raise with thier hands together in Namaste. A very high sign of respect, for as many Indians have told me:
"In india we say Guest is like God".

Bill?...
Handed him the charge and took off a few paces when the elders stopped me for a quick conversation, and then to escort me into the temple which was decorated beautifully. Three bows, a small donation, and a sudden offer to tag along in thier Jeep, heading to the Asoka pillar 3km away, which I was about to walk to! Right on!
About 8 men squeezed into this tiny jeep, and passed the turn off to the Pillar...!
Keeping silently happy, not having a clue where we are going or how far they will drive me, accepting "going with the flow" was too easy by now...Kicked back, one of the men sitting next to me who barely spoke english sang the whole way with a huge grin, staring at me, singing to me in HIndi... He was a fat man in his 40's, gold and rotten teeth, jolly and filled with laughter...

Within 20 minutes we arrived somewhere unknown..

It was the birthplace of the founder of Jain religion. 2500 yaers old. These men were also on a pilgramage from far away towns in Bihar, some where from local villages who were only friends. Only one man spoke english, a short indian man about 60, who sported a long grey beard. He explained a little about this sacred place, and gave deep thoughts reguarding the holy history of this regions soil.
Soon we were off in the jeep again, arriving at the Asoka Pillar!!
No need for an enterance fee, although it was written at the offical booth. These men got me in for free, and later I found out who they claimed to be...
(Important village people who can smoke ganja everywhere and have respect everywhere, one a head master of his village, perhaps with a little excissive power in this part of Bihar..)
The old man explained a little history not in the guide books. Around the stupa and Lion-Pillar rests 99 mini stupas, each a grave for Emporer Ashokas 99 brothers whom died at his hands! The bloodshed of Ashokas wars, killing his 99 brothers is unthinkable... Yet he still retianed a Buddha nature, like every human being, and was able to dedicate the rest of his life in repentance and love for the teachings of Buddha. This moment was a reflection, as I secretly wipped my eyes, for the realization that every human no matter how messsed up, is cappable of a love-centered-life...

Back into the jeep with deep thoughts, we drove for half an hour into a small town, something like "Lallganj"... Stopping at a Dabba, we sat in a circle and orderd a few snacks, including some soft white creamy sweets never tasted before. Then some whiskey was whipped out! Oh no....
The whiskey was poured into many glasses for all, and boy did they make me drink! Even mixing the Whiskey with tap water, I couldent decline thier gift, and again prayed that I wont get dysentery from the tap water!
Something about this soft white screamy sweet and whiskey that just hit the spot... Kicking back, enjoying the moment, the men were getting wasted off thier @sses! The fat man sitting next to me kept feeding me with his right hand, and soon the double-hand-symbol for "lets smoke some chillum" dropped the conversation. Buzzed, full and happy, I was first to bust out my pre-packed chillum!!
Thier eyes lit up with thier faces... BOOM SHANKAR!!!!
Puffing and passing, across the table sat an elderly man, a Hannyuman Baba, with a Grocery Bag full of ganja! Must have been a quater pounder!
His eyes were red and wide open with a stare as if he can see through existance itself. He sat silently, re-packed my chillum full, and we continued our wodnerful session of whiskey and smoke....
Content and relaxed, my momentary demeaner was my only salvation for the next suprise...
"I LOVE YOU FRIEND".. The fat, 40ish year old man with rotten teeth was getting very emotional and loud. He kept telling mw how much he loved me, and they all started telling me " I LOVE YOOOUUUU"...
*man do Indians get drunk fast!*
So the jolly fat man with rotten teeth grabbed my head, and thinking he was going to give a "Italian Style" cheek kisss, stuck his nasty tounge out and french kissed my mouth!!!!! I threw his head back and quickly wipped my face, short of getting violent.... Everyone laughing hysterically, and it took a minute to regain my posture. That was so sick and not cool. Though as my happiness came with the territory at the time, the situation rolled off my shoulder with a semi-laugh, and from that point everything was cool...

Soon one of the important, richer men in the town showed up, and invited us to his new home, where his son's birthday celebration was going on...
Taking a tour of his house, he was proud to show me his up-scale life style, for his house was made of brick, and the dirt floor had semi- new furniture. He was one of the richest people in town.
Sitting on his bed with the best treatment, being introduced to his family, so many sweets were presented. Respectfully forced to chow down an unimaginable amount of sweets, the thin line between graditude and sickness had nearly vanished...
Then it was time for lunch!!
Sitting in a circle with 15 other men on thier large dirt porch, the women stayed together in the house, as we found comfert on the floor buffered with a thin rag mat. So much home style cooking was poured on my plate!!
So much curries, all different styles of authentic Indian food, the dinner was an unforgetable one.
"when in rome".....
None of us washed our hands, and ate with our dirty fingers, naturally, without hesitation. Tap water was presented, as bottle water was FAR away. Again having no other choise, I drank down two cups of obviously cloudy ground water!! But man is the food good and spicy!

After the meal, we settled down and soon I knew, it was time to make the transition into "leaving"...Knowing if I stayed any longer, an uncomfertable situation would arrise when they WILL offer me a place to sleep at thier house, which will be hard to decline respectfully...The time was 4:30, and I gave them the best reason I could find without lying...
"At 6pm we have Puja, I need to be at my hotel by 6pm!"...
They understood, but didnt take me back with the Jeep!!
I was on my own!
Walking me across the street, they hailed a tempo back to Vaishali. We said our goodbyes, exchanged information, touching my feet and bowing with respect, only to have the same expression mirrored back at them. This is a good thing to learn in India.. How to show respect to beggars, touts, all people, by touching thier feet, bowing with Namaste gesture.

On the Tempo ride home, I wondered about the erspect they showed me...

Many times I have been called a Sadhu. With dreadlocks like shiva, aesthetic practices of body piercing, alone on a pilgramage to find god, without marrige or a woman, smoking Ganja religiously, and at all times filled with love. "American Sadhu". "Buddhua Sadhu". "Sadhu Baba". These phrases are often spoken infront of me, indirectly between locals, refering to this strange forienger before them.
Many times has my hair alone gained mutual respect from the locals.

But the tempo stopped in a little town inbetween the house I jsut left, and Vaishali. NO ONE here spoke english, it was a town nonexistant to tourists.
This place was raw and real. The people have a rougher attitude, a meaner look, a more agressive behavior and I could tell this is one tough place to live.
"Vaishali?"...YES!
Finnaly found an overcrowded jeep that took an HOUR to get back. By the time I hit the enterence to Vaishali, it was night time and Puja was over.
Chanting alone, prostrated infront of the hotels shrine, grateful for the experiences throughout this holy land, and to have made it back without getting jacked at night, I thanked the Buddha for the blesings recieved today, and prayed for all deceased souls and thier Karma.

After all the excitement, it was now time for dinner! Food at this hotel (guest house actually) was free. And this time, it was AWSOME!!!
Some Shri-lankan nuns were ona pilgrimage too, and bought TONS of food for everyone. They invited me to eat outside, sitting on the steps of the garden, munching on a tasty meal, my gut was stuffed at it was soon time for bed...
So whats the plan for tomorow? Get out the door by 8am to catch the bus to Patna, then to Bodhgaya! However, this would deduct a few important buddhist sites from my pilgramage, and weighing the pros and cons, I lazily took the latter...
Though the Buddha had a different plan for me!!!

Waking up in the morning to a fantastic Wake and Bake, I made it downstairs right on time...Suddenly the head monk walks up and says:
"The Shri-lanka nuns are going to Patna today, you can catch a ride!"
A GIFT FROM THE GODS! Praise Jah, for the karma accumalated during this pilgrimage is ever so apparent!
First class, Air Condidtion, comfertable seats, brand spankin new private bus, I got a front seat with a view so spetacular, I could have been walking the entire way! The windsheild was bigger than any bus seen, so the view was amazing the whole way there!
Knowing there is nothing that spetacular in Patna, its used more as a transit point. The Bus was going all the way to Nalanda, an important Buddhist site I would have skipped otherwise! It was far from Patna, and would have cost me atleast another day in booking/traveling/sleeping. The Nuns were more than happy to hitch me a ride all the way to Nalanda! Infact they were going to Bodhgaya that very day! It was a tough decision, but theres no escaping the fact that I am traveling alone, so the moment seemed parting ways at Nalanda was best...

The ancient ruins were really cool. It was quite an experience to explore and treck around. But soon the 48L Marmot Backpack drained enough energy to call it a day, and find a hotel in Rajgir!! But first, a couple bananas for some beggars, who are 99% without any graditude, heh.

Only 6 rupees from Nalanda to Rajgir, but the jeep had no room..
Oh yeah! My seat is on the roof, baby!!! WOOHOO!!
Some small rails to hold onto, and rice-sacks to lean back on, I had a first class, Maharaja style gangster lean, on top of the world!! The whole way there was such a blast, and my cheeks are hurting from all the Perma-grining!

Then out of no where,
massive and unimaginable, mountian size hills rose almost vertically from the flat plains, demanding nothing less than pure awe. We were now in Rajgir, and what awaits is just another chapter that ultimately changed my life...

Wazen

Hopping off the roof of the tempo, excited and overthrilled, my Marmot Pack fell straight into a pile of sewage. Great.
Walking around the town searching for a hotel, careless for the Lonely Planet, booking in advanced is now out of the question in my travels. Also I can care less for the LP's hotel listings. After one month in India, with sufficient clothes and a bed tent, it no longer matters what happens when arriving in a new place. Faith in god only matters now, and keeping a pure heart and frame of mind is all that is needed here, in Great India.

Finding a side street, two hotels face eachother with apparent competition. This is a good sign! Choosing one, happy to find a room with a private bath, and bargain with the owner for 100rs a night! Not bad! Of course, its cold water, squat toilet, and a thin matress thats almost non-existant. After a month in India, I know, this is luxury compared to half the nations life style!
Outside my thirdfloor room was a two story house where a poor local family lived, cows right below, cow-dung fire patties by the masses, the stench of fecies didnt phase me, at this point. I was happy to have a roof over my head!
Well we got some time before sunset,
time to explore the town a little.....
After an overpriced lunch down the road, and heading into the backroads of Rajgir, I wanted to leave the next day! This small village was so intense, so real, it reminded me of the coined phrase "Distilled India" in reference to Varanasi. Although Rajgir has a more "raw" element than Varanasi, its not a tourist place, its a holy place, and few travelers stay here, rather passing through for the day. I found a Chemist and got a little mellow, and then let things flow over a cup of chai, from the filthiest stand ever! Soon a heard of atleast 100 cattle comes walking down the street! It was pretty amazing. The Chemist shops have signs posting as "Druggists", heh heh! And in many ways, thats the illegitimately are! This place is such a trip!
Wanderd through some back alleys and found out how small this little town is.
Its like a mini LosVegas...
A small bustling town in the middle of no where, and within a few paces your back into endless feilds and mountain ranges...
From the dirt plains behind main road, temples dotting the mountain tops intrigue the sences, and the orange sunset over the golden landscape radiates a feeling of holiness, for this is considered a holy land by 5 different religions!!!
The urge to treck hit me like a truck, and the temples on the mountain top looked so inaccessable, I HAD to find a way there! So it was then decided to stay another night in Rajgir, and climb the mountain!! The guidebook says nothing about these temples, other than many exist on 5 hills and you can catch a "cable car" to one of them... HAH!

The first day in Rajgir was turning into night....
On the way back to the hotel I met a kid in the feild who was about 13. Instantly we became friends, he was a cool kid, and a person I will never forget by the time I leave Rajgir!!

Although the hotel owner and staff knew only 10 english words and numbers to barter with, the food they cooked me was the best and cheapest ever. 25rs (50 cents!) for the best dinner dish ever!! Gota love the food here! A meal like this would cost $20usd back home!
Later on that night, I got felt adventureous enough to wander the streets of lawless Bihar after dark!
Finding a chai shop, the boy brings it from across the way. The usual crowd of 20 people surrounding me silently was again the normal greeting, even at this hour... When I asked "Bill?"... he replies "50rs"...
I laughed, but he was serious. The situation paused with an uncomfertable silence.... "no no no... 2 rupees!!" I said with a laugh.. But he insisted on the 50rs! Irie vibes and a smile prevailed, and soon I had them laughing with me, and he gave me the Chai for free! Needing to give someting in return, I bought some Bidi's from his friend's stand, who overcharged me 2rs anyway! Then I shared my Bidi's with them all, and the whole crowd lightened up until it almost became a party, a party like the one about to happen!!!..

Leaving the groupies to retire on the porch of my hotel,
music started blasting from far away. A turck carring HUGE speakers, blasting Indian music, rolling along slowly approached the hotel. On the back of the truck was a statue of Hindu god. Many locals were dancing the whole night away, having a blast as the music went on into the late night!! Witnessing such an event was really cool, as it was more of a township ritual! A few great pictures and it was time to rest for the next day, because the mountain top calls out to me!!! Little did I know, the entire next day would take me along a secret, 22km (more like 28km) hike through the mountians, visiting ancient temples so remote, they are left locked and unattended...
But that story is for another day!

Aloha everyone!

kullukid

High Wazen, Good to hear you finally got to India or as India got to you? I remember you were enquiring about the parvati & Malana, but was worried about the cold, but from your writings it doesn't sound like you worry about anything anymore! I hope you still intend going there as it sounds like your sort of thing & i would love to hear one of your chapters about the area if you do get to Kasol try staying at bahadur family guesthouse it is just outside Kasol (with no fleas) in some apple orchards & vereee shanti @ rs70 per night. Apart from walking to Malana you could try going to Pulga & Khir Ganga. Bom bolenath jah rastafari! kk

Judi

Wazen!

I've just spent the last hour reading all the posts in this thread, and I'm completely blown away Amazing Sound like you are having the most fantastic time - all helped, no doubt, by your incredible attitude. Keep the posts coming - I can hardly wait for the next installment.

Thanks for sharing this.

Judi

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It is better to light a candle than complain about the darkness.

lotus blossom

yes, indeed. this pilgrimage is showing you the sacred path...

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Not all who wander are lost

shpatel

Absolutely amazing Wazen, you've captured a part of India I only wish I was courageous enough to see. How do you just let yourself go?

Peace be with you my brother and may you continue to be blessed in all your travels.

SHP

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Let the world change you...and you can change the world
-Ernesto Guevara de la Serna

Wazen

Aloha everyone, namaste
Thank you all for the kind replies! Im glad you are all enjoying the journey aswell.

The second day in Rajgir sarted relatively early, as the hotel owner came knocking at my door aruond 8:30am to ask if some breakfast would make me happy. Taking it as a sign, within a few minutes I was dressed and downstairs, only to find the biggest, cheapest breakfast compareable to last nights dinner! The owner also pre-arranged a tempo for my day, without my knowledge, and he waited very patiently, only to find out I was unaware and unwilling!

Walking a few hundred yards down the road, the once bustling city turned into a quiet, desert like retreat. A split in the road leads to seperate mountains, but only the western peak called out with a temple crowning the top. Walking further down the road, with eyes fixed on the mountain slope, a barely noticeable pathway appeared through the dried bush, leading a steep climb to an unknown height. Hit with instant excitement, the path to find the starting point became a mission!

Instincts led the start of this walk through a narrow pathway, behind chai stands and shops which didnt seem like the right path at all. A pink, roofless building stood out where inside a public bath full of dirty water had many villagers bathing in it. Feeling really out of place I looked down and hesitantly continued further behind the bath's walls. Here was a small community of people like nothing I seen before. It was an extremely busy town of people, all who worked out of and lived in grass shacks, as if the country style way of life was condensed into a small city!
Walking past the busy villagers, soon appeared the starting point, slightly hidden behind the crowds of shacks and people. A small stone marking the enterence, and the engravement read the temple atop dates back to 2500bc.
The pathway was beautiful, cement-like stone with natural marble inlay, and steps leading up so far, the ending was a secret to be found. Armed with a litter of water, the mid-day sun fried above my head, and this moment only fueled my determination, testing the willpower of adventure, with the seemingly endless climb mocking me with each and every step. The pace grew faster until it was like being back home, walking up scenic dirt roads into the mountains of Oahu, falling quickly into the natural rythum of hiking..

Passing cattle and goats, farmers and villagers, a sence of wonder was nothing less than admiration for thier way of life in this remote area, and the amazement of what cows would be doing this high up the steep stair way...Many of the villagers gathering fire wood from the dried brush, only to carry down loads resting with a perfect ballance upon thier heads.
After thousands of stairs, the first small temple made a nice retreat, sharing a bidi and buying some overpriced water!
Only a third of the way up the mountain, the jounery continued until, atlast, the temple crowing the mountain top was at my feet! Finnaly! The view was beautiful, and Rajgir looked so far away, pictures taken could barely capture the town!
Walking around the temple, the same pathawy was found hidden away, continuing far down the valley slope, and up another, where a simmilar temple stuck out in the distance.
"Kilometers?" I asked the temple attendan, pointing at the temple across the valley..
"only 3 or 4". He says..
Sounds good to me!...The walking of endless stairs went on..
Soon it hit me, I was in the middle of nowhere. No houses, no people, a half liter of water, and nothing but mountian sides and wild vegetation...
...The stairs went on and on..
When the temple across the valley was reached, it was time to chill out for a while and relax for a few....
Another temple was a short distance away, and like the once next to it, the temple was so remote that it was unattended and locked up behind bars. A short look around, and I noticed the path continued!!
Assessing the situation on water and energy, I chanced the trail leading further into the unknown, with now less than half a liter of water, and nothing but wilderness in sight..
The stairs trailed down and down, and after a few more hours of walking, fear started to set in. I was passed the point of return, and didnt know where I was going to end up, so the best idea was to keep going!
While admiring the landscape, although terrified that I could be lost, a small section of the main road appeared about 4 miles away! YES! from then on, the trail was a blast! Knowing I was okay, the hike ended with a chillum under a tree, sitting on a marble rock, still a mile away from the paved, main road.
A villager soon appeared from the bush, carring a large knife on a stick, and I offered a seat. He was poor farmer, and had a sack full of grains which he offered a handful of. Villagers like him make barely 50rs a day, for all they do is clear bush and farm in the widnerness. Wanting a little baksheesh, of course, a 10rs note was a nice gesture, and he ungratefully half-smiled as we parted ways.

The day was scorching hot at this time, and while walking down the paved road I noticed the hike just completed went up one side, and came down the other side of the entire mountian, length wise (including the valley inbetween)!
A little sunburned, over-heated, I took my shirt off and let it hang around my neck, and let the dreads hang too, as my bandana was soaked with sweat.
Always with a sence of love and reality after long walks into unknown wilderness, highest vibes with a feeling of spiritual enlightenment, walking down the road letting the dreads hang had a special effect. Villagers and townspeople were giving me the Namaste gesture with smiles, instead of blank confused looks. Sweaty and dirty with a thousand mile stare, somehow, for some reason, I was getting a lot of respect.

Arrivng back at the starting point, a few villagers confirmed that the entire monestery hike was 19 kilometers! The afternoon was still early, and it was time for lunch....
Dabbas doing road-side buisness can prepare some cheap vegetale curry, and the once chosen had a spetacular view of the second mountian, the one in the east!!
Today my energy level was going off the hook, maybe it was the food, but staring at the second mountain gave me that same special feeling all over again!
Mocking me, tempting me, calling out to climb it!!.....I gave in

Finding the starting point was very easy, as the hiking trail begins behind the "Hot Springs".
A Hindu man approaches me as I pass the famous place, his intentions correctly prejudged. Forcing me to recieve a "blessing", of course for a hidden fee, I couldent say no, or pay him!
So I let him do his thing, recite a prayer without much enthusiasum, and the grand total was 500rs! Heh heh! Time to bust out an old trick, but an honest gesture from the heart.

With sincere prayer I looked him in the eyes, and told him my payment is "puja". I bent down, touched his feet, and put my hand together in Namaste, and let a moment of silence pass as I recite a blessing. The man and I both content, walked seperate ways to continue along our own paths in life.

Just like the first mountian, the path has the same stone inlay, same vegetation, but a totally different view! Only a few short Kilometers of an uphil battle between my legs and the stairs, temples finnaly revealed itself, one after another, some unattended and perfect for another chillum while enjoying the scenery all to my self!! Feeling Irie and upbeat, it was time to walk further up the mountain!
The only man you can call a tourist wasnt very welcome at the top, as two days in Rajgir showed only a single western couple! The true isolation of these places is something really special for those who love hiking! But at the very top of the mountain, the marble-inlay path ended into a temple which had a family living within its boundries. Walking behind the temple, around the family members, the eldest man ran after me and scolded me in Hindi. Through his warnings, I noticed another path way continuing up the moutain side, but it was a dirt road filled with gigantic boulders to climb over. However, the brush was chopped away and a clear pathway was apparent, although pretty rough! I kept pointing to the pathway, and he kept saying "NO! JUNGLE!" over and over. Insisting that its part of my journey, and unwilling to listen, he waved his backhand while turning away, as if to gesture "go f**k off then, I dont care!"...
....cool!
Climbing for an hour up this dirt road, over big rocks and sharp broken pieces of marble, locals passed by without much thought to this alien face, though I noticed something about them...
They were dressed a little differently, and all carried bamboo walking sticks, bamboo that I have yet to see growign in this region! Many of the old ladies walking slowly on this path had no shoes at all, and even the men were very small compared to most indians. They looked like a totally different people than the rest of Rajgir..
The climb continued and the path became more of a challenge as it winded higher up the mountain. After atleast 4-5 kilometers of an uphill battle, a group of five villagers approached me..
None could speak much english, but from thier body language and tone of voice, they were telling me to turn back...
At this point I couldent! I offered them 1USD to take me further, to the ending of the trail, but they insisted with passion that I not continue. I had no other choice, so I turned back...
One man spoke a little english, and knew how to ask my name, and introduce hiself aswell...
"Does the trail go to a village??" He says it does.
"Whats the village name?" He said "No name!".
I asked many times, but he wouldent tell me anything about his hidden, remote village!
After returning to the last temple, the elder man who initially warned me, wouldent tell me the village name either! They both kept saying "Village no name"...
It was apparent that beyond the valleys of this mountain, lay a secret village that wants to remain untouched and unspoiled by outsiders. A treckers dream to find! I was so close!...
And how dissapointing, but oh well, it was getting late by now, and time for a beer and a smoke!

Wandering back to the hotel, a kid I chated with a few times was hanging out on the street corner, so we had a little conversation over a little more walking. This 13 year old kid spoke english very well, and he was an amazing person. For such a young boy, its hard to believe, that the philisophical conversaion that followed rivaled that of many adults! Our religious and cultural views on life layed flat on the table, we could only sit there amazed at eachothers teachings.

Parting ways afer dark, the next day I was to leave for Bodhgaya, so we agreed to meet in the morning. Two hours early, I get a knock on the door, it was the young boy. This kid who lives within a poor family and house which visited ealier, had two presents for me. The night before he wouldent even accept a cup of tea, samosa, even a sweet! He had this much respect and integrity, with barely anything to give, though handed me two brand new farewell cards! On the envelopes he wrote, "I love you Justin". With only a few hours until the bus leaves for Bodhgaya, he wouldent even accept breakfast with me. No matter how much I insisted, he would respectfully decline. Feeling happily obligated to spend my last hours in Rajgir with him, breakfast was skipped, although when taking a quick deture for some chai, my friend had already payed for it, along with sweets and a small meal. Still declining my offers to return the favor, or pay for myself. He must have spent a fortune on these gifts, and had so much love to give. What we learned from eachother, and the wisdom shared, im sure that his life along with mine has been in some small way, changed forever. His last words to me spoke: not to get down or sad when India takes advantage of me, as if he knew my story, or the future of my travels here...

lotus blossom

ah, so beautiful. it brought tears to my eyes. thank you.