Trip Report - Chitkul, Kalpa & Kotgarh

This is a report on our recent trip to Kinnaur.

This summer we headed towards Kinnaur, a destination, which had been on our mind for quite sometime. We were two couples with two kids (2&3 yrs). So wanted a relaxed holiday which was not too taxing for the children (and hence us) and yet something we could really enjoy. After reading various posts on IM and speaking to a couple of experienced IMers the plan was the following:

Del – Kalka (by train) – Narkanda
Narkanda – Chitkul (2nights)
Chitkul – Kalpa
Kalpa – Sarhan
Sarhan – Narkanda
Narkanda – Kalpa – Del (by train from Kalka)

What we actually ended by doing is a different story.

Day 1 The long awaited day finally came and we made our way to the New Delhi Railway station to catch the Shatabdi to Kalka. No issues there, kids were happy to be on a train. Since there is no Ticket for children less than 5yrs and hence no seat, I made a reservation for them by stating their age as 5yrs, as I did not fancy the thought of their sitting on our laps for hours! We reached Chandigarh and got off as the taxi driver had informed us, that he will not be able to pick us up in Kalka as his vehicle was registered in Himachal and he suggested we get off in Chandigarh. He was waiting for us and we started for Narkanda. Had Lunch at Dharampur at Giani ka Dhaba (which I do not recommend, quite crowded and bad food). Started for Shimla, it was really crowded with serpentine queues of vehicles all around. It was hot as well and we couldn’t wait to get out of there. We stopped at the Oberoi Wild Flower Hall at Masorba where the chef was a friend of the couple travelling with us. Nice property but since they don’t let kids under 10 in, we had to sit out in the lawn for tea. It was considerably cooler here than in Shimla. Finally reached Narkanda and checked in at Hotel Mahamaya. It is a basic hotel quite clean, food is average. As it was beginning to get dark by the time we got in, we didn’t venture out and retired for the night post dinner.
Day 2 We had aimed for an early start but well with kids its kinda tough it was 8:30 before actually got going. We did not go to Hatu Peak that day as we wanted to get to Chitkul and spend maximum time there. Hatu peak was left for the return journey. We started off and took multiple stops for photography. The road was quite good to begin with, but from Wangtu to Karcham it was a mess. It improves for a bit when you take the turn to sangla/chitkul. Lunch was at a small nondescript Dhaba at Tapri. But the food was really really good and hospitality very warm. Everyone ate more than usual and promptly fell asleep as soon as we got moving again. We woke up thanks to the bad sections of the road and started to enjoy the scenery. We reached Rakcham at about 4:30 or so and made way to Parasol Camps. The camp was empty and it was just us (though had 3 guys come in later ). Freshened up quickly and headed to the small stream which was close to the camp. It was a beautiful place, lush green grass and the small stream with oh soooo cold water. The Parasol camp guys asked if we wanted to sit there and have our tea and snacks there. Of course we said yes. And we spent several hours soaking in the atmosphere and devouring the yummy pakoras. A small bonfire preceded dinner, both the guys tried their hand at chopping the wood and realized it was best left to the experts!. Dinner was regular stuff but really yummy.
Day3 After breakfast we headed out to Chitkul. Started our walk to the checkpost. The children walked too but had to be carried in between. In the meantime the sky was turning grey and we did not spend much time at the last point where the warning board was. It started to drizzle and we picked up the kids and literally ran back and close to the road we saw our driver running towards us with umbrellas. He must have seen us from quite a distance. We were to have a picnic lunch at a particular spot before Chitkul and Anup from the camp was waiting in his bolero with our Lunch but the drizzle had picked up and we decided to go back to the camp and eat there. A lazy lunch was followed by a lazy afternoon. The evening cleared out and we want for a walk around the camp. It was a beautiful spot and Tenzing from the camp took us around, giving us a rambling commentary on the area. We returned to our favourite spot by stream and evening snacks and a couple of drinks followed. The guys tried the local apple liquor and decided it wasn’t all that great. Mutton was on the menu as well, which by all accounts was delicious ( I am vegetarian so no comments there). Post dinner we retired in our tents. I woke up in the middle of the night hearing some rustling, turning on the light I sat up screaming at the sight of a mouse! Which woke up our son as well and needless to say the light remained on for the rest of the night and I tried my best to stay up but finally gave in to the happy exhaustion from the day.

Day 4 Husband dearest woke up at 5 and went of for a short hike up a mountain accompanied by Tenzing. I too would have liked to go but didn’t want to leave my son sleeping in an unfamiliar environment all by himself ( ah the joys and sacrifices of motherhood ). The whole morning was very lazy more so because we didn’t want to leave. We seriously contemplated staying on there itself but then decided to move on. We started off for Kalpa at about 10 and we were really sad to leave. I was seriously wondering if we would like Kalpa now? After all if you have seen the Garden of Eden why would you like Moughal Gardens?? We spoke to our driver Umesh about going up till Nako the next day and back to Kalpa and he said it wont really be possible in a day as the road was really in a bad shape with the road widening work and said it would take up to 5-6hrs one way. The same was shared by Anup as well. Even then we decided to speak to people in Kalpa and find out the latest. We reached Kalpa in the afternoon and made our way to Rakpa Regency. We took 2 rooms on the 2nd floor, with a view (we were the only ones there at the time, that however changed by the evening). Ordered some food and went of f to freshen up the kids were happily playing in the garden. Lunch took a long time in coming and the food wasn’t that great. After a short rest we started off to Roghi village and started walking up the path leaving the car at the starting. We were happy to see the various trees and my husband plucked some pea pods growing in a field to see if they tasted any different and right then a local villager came by and seeing the “2” pods in my husband’s hand started shouting, to which my husband replied calmly but that just seemed to fuel on the fire and eventually my husband to raised his voice. The villager vented some more and then went off. We were a little put off by this but well we moved on our exploration. Post that we went to the monastery and had some momos in a small place near it. He took his time making the momos and thukpa as he said it was to made from scratch. There we meet another couple stayng in our hotel and they too were coming from Chitkul and were staying in camp just before Rakcham (Kinner view camps I think) they said camp was fine but the food was just ok. We compared notes on what to do next and the possibilities started appearing as far as shoja and sainj. We were frankly a little disappointed with Kalpa (and missing Chitkul) and with Nako not being a feasible option were wondering where to go next. Had dinner at the Blue Lotus (kids were happy to see TV after a few days and were happy watching Chota Bheem). All possibilities were discussed again over dinner yet no conclusion.

Day 5 Morning dawned and we thought of calling RaviKant (the taxi operator from whom we had booked our Innova ) and ask him for stay options in Thanedar other than Banjara camps (they were sold out). He promised to get back to us and told us to move on to Rampur and he will let us know what he can find and if not we can stay in Sarahan as planned. Post breakfast of oily omelet’s (which everyone left after a bite) we decided to go upto Morang and then make our way to Thanedar or Sarahan as the case may be. The waterfall at Kasang Nallah was great but Morang was a bit of a let down. Anyway were happy to see the Spiti kind of mountains (brown and barren) once again, so it was all good. Lunch was at the same dhaba in Tapri and again in was delicious!. Ten we heard from RaviKant and he asked us if we would be ok staying in a homestay in an apple orchard. Will we be ok? Of course we jumped at the thought and told him yes. He informed us that it was quite basic accommodation and only bathroom for the two rooms. But we were so thrilled at the prospect of a homestay and that to in an apple orchard that we would have said yes to a ‘no’ bathroom also! So all was well once agin and we got in touch with the lady of the house and she gave the driver instructions on how to get there. Some miscommunication saw us take the road to Thanedar where as her home was in the village (Kotgarh) below Thanedar and did have a shorter route to it. But oh boy, we have never been so happy on taking the wrong route, as we encountered so many orchards and we I have to confess we even stopped and stole some Nashpatis (even though they were not ripe yet they still tasted awesome like all ill gotten goods). We made contact again and were directed to the right road. We finally reached the garage spot of the house well after dark and we had to walk a bit to get to the house. It was a small trail and quite dark but hey it was fun. We met the gracious lady Mrs. Singha and her husband and really loved the simplicity and the warmth of the house. After a hot cup of tea for us and a quick dinner for the kids we moved to the guest house which was a little way off from the main house. The location was spectacular and the wind in the balcony was just mind blowing. The kids were tired and dropped off quickly and the four of us spent the a few hours sitting in the balcony enjoying the beauty , breeze and the stillness of the place. Of course even though we were not loud I am sure we could be heard way up in the main house.(which was confirmed the next morning!!)

Day 6 We woke up and saw the beauty of the place for the first time. Post breakfast we sat and had a long chat with our hosts whom by now we had started calling Uncle and Aunty. We were so envious of their easy going laid back lifestyle! We then started to explore the orchard. And we tried all the fruits, Apples that were still so tiny and green. Almonds you had to pluck and crack open and the soft white almond inside that melted in your mouth was a hot favourite. Plums and apricots were there too. Apricots were already finished but one tree still had some remaining and we really feasted on them. The Kids learnt fruits actually come from trees and not the supermarket! And they were fascinated by the cows and my son also learned to imitate the mooo perfectly! We made our way to Tani jubbar a small lake nearby, it also had a small Nag temple nearby. We went up the mountain next to the lake and spent sometime in taking lots of pictures. And then we came to Thanedar to get some lunch. Apart from a very tiny dhaba there was nothing else and we thought it was too late to call aunty and trouble her for lunch, so we had lunch there and food was quite simple but good. Went back to our homestay and spent the evening exploring around the area and chatting with Uncle and Aunty. The kids were happy playing with Umesh and two kids who were the children of the cook and household help. The night saw us utilizing the balcony once again and slow strains of Ghulam Ali invaded the atmosphere from our phones. It was our last night of the vacation and we wanted to savour every moment of it.

Day 7 We woke up and got ready and were really reluctant to leave and even Aunty was quite emotional esp because of the Kids. But there and then we decided to come back sometime in Sept when the Apples are in season. With that decision we finally said our byes and moved on. We needed to fuel up and went to Narkanda pump and got fuel and Umesh asked if we wanted to go to Hatu peak which we had left to be visited on our way back, but the time was short and we had to catch our train from Kalka in the evening so we deiced not to go anyway we were going to come back in a couple of months. So we stared of for Shimla and it was a wise decision in the end cause we were stuck in two jams - one in Shimla and one after Dharampur. At Kalka station we bid goodbye to Umesh who was with for all these 7days. ( a good driver and a nice person as well, should anyone want to use his services).

We got on the train and said bye to the mountains. The much awaited holiday was over and we were on our way back to the usual. But we hope our next visit won’t be that far off.

So I have finally posted my first trip report!! I know the pics needs to go on next. Soon Tomorrow for sure!!

Some pictures from the Trip

Some More pictures. Rakcham & Chitkul

Cost info
Taxi - Inova @2600/- per day (fuel included)
Parasol Camps @3000/- per day for two ppl (inculding all meals)
Rakpa regency @800/- per day (no food)
Kotgarh Homestay @800/- per day per person (incl B/f & dinner)
Total expenses (excluding train tickets) 23000/- (for 2)

Beautiful clicks & a nice trip report. Which DSLR did you use?

Thanks
I used Canon 550D with 18 -135 lens

Beautiful photos!

beautiful pics and nice report..... wont mind some more pics

Thanks Sagarneel & Aditiban!

More pics

The First Picture is the view from th homestay in Kotgarh
The second is the lake Tannijubbar near kotgarh
Sunset picture is near Thanedar

wow!! really nice photo ...

Thanks Aditiban